I need to replace my ball joint on my 1998 e36 m3 coupe. I can literally shake the wheel back and forth and see the ball joint moving left and right.
I ordered the e30 m3 lemforder inner and outer ball joint. I just need to press old ones and press new ones in. Does the Autozone Loan-A-Tool Ball Joint press sufficient enough to do the job?
12 ton wasnt enough to get mine out, but seems to work for most people. Sounds like you are just doing one side. I would do both. Remove the control arms and take them to a machine shop and have them pressed in, they shouldn't charge much.
Nope, you need at least a 12, 20 is better.
No matter where you go, there you are...
Yea I just did this with my 20 ton. 12 ton would be a struggle.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
I have a 12ton press in my shop and have pressed hundreds of e30/36 ball joints over the past several years. It hasn't broken a sweat.
For the record I just bought the HF 20T press for a hair over $160 just the other day with that 20% coupon. I think It's good till the end of the month.
I literally just came in from pressing in the second set of bushings, the hardest thing for me was choosing how to arrange the arbor plates to press the new bearings in.
I'd say the first side took about 30 minutes to press out and get the new ones in. The second took about 15 minutes to press out and in.
And it just paid for itself.
That's exactly how I explained it to my wife. :p
Last edited by shogun; 02-05-2016 at 09:02 AM.
I just found dimensions, thread, pitch etc on a German website, just for info:
31121126254 outer ball joints
Konussteigung/cone pitch: 1/10
Konusmaß/cone size [mm]: 14,4
Aussendurchmesser/outer diameter [mm]: 41,4
Gewindemaß/thread size MM12x1.5R
Höhe/height [mm]: 80
31121126253 inner ball joints
Aussengewinde/outer thread [mm]: M14 x 1,5
Konussteigung/cone pitch: 1/5
Konusmaß/cone size [mm]: 14,8
Aussendurchmesser [mm]: 41,4
Durchmesser/diameter [mm]: 14,8
Höhe/height [mm]: 135
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I’m having trouble finding a shop to press these bushings in. My local Indy BMW shop wanted $285 which almost makes it not worth it. What kinda shops did you guys find that would be willing to do this. Thanks.
For that money I would get a Harbor freight press and do it yourself.
I would think most any legit auto repair shop has a press.
I have used these types of bushing tools many times with good results:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/27PC-Univer...72.m2749.l2649
Last edited by emccallum; 09-15-2018 at 08:21 PM.
get a c-clamp ball joint press, might work , HF has that too, here someone used them for trailing arm bushings, based on that result I also bought such a solid c-clamp http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/507089
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Picked up a 20ton press from Harbor Freight this weekend for $140 after a coupon. I am going to remove the arms and press out the old ball joints. What size socket is everyone using to press them out / press new ball joints in? Ive see 3/4 socket mentioned once on this thread.
Did anyone cut the flange on the back of the existing ball joints to press them out from the bottom OR did you press the out from the top side (with the threaded part)?
https://www.eeuroparts.com/blog/5319...n-ball-joints/
[SIZE="1"]1997 M3/4/5 18x8.5 Hartge Classics, F1 Stage 2 Clutch Kit
:one This Year :: Koni inserts, HR Sport, Rogue RSM, Ball Joints, Powerflex LCAB, Adjustable Sway Links (DIY), Headliner, MM Underpanel, 3 spoke wheel swap, BavSound Speakers, Bluetooth radio adapter
Reading ALL of the related threads, the long shaft of the BJ is cut off and pressed out from upper side.
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Watch your feet and shins when they are about to come out. They can come out fast and hard.
I went and checked the socket, it was a 27mm deep impact socket from HF. Got a threaded coupling thing from Ace for a few bucks. You may need something stronger but Sprayed my ball joints with quite a bit of penetrating oil which did penetrate the rust from what I saw so the balljoint didn't explode out like crazy.
IMG_20190409_135438422.jpg
IMG_20190409_141045507.jpg
I'm going to attempt this soon...my 24mm deep impact sock seemed perfect too....i read 30mm in another thread, but the outside diameter is too big. I figure 24 - 27mm would all work since they all apply uniform pressure on the interior of the joint
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Don't forget to mark the orientation. BJs are directional (that sounds kind of funny).
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
It was a major major pain in the ass to get the passenger side outer ball joint out of the knuckle. I am going to cut off the threaded shaft and then try press out - picked up 24mm, 27mm and 32mm deep sockets.
I had to order some crowfoot wrenchs because that seems like the only way to torque the inner ball joint with that tiny area of clearance. Hopefully they work
[SIZE="1"]1997 M3/4/5 18x8.5 Hartge Classics, F1 Stage 2 Clutch Kit
:one This Year :: Koni inserts, HR Sport, Rogue RSM, Ball Joints, Powerflex LCAB, Adjustable Sway Links (DIY), Headliner, MM Underpanel, 3 spoke wheel swap, BavSound Speakers, Bluetooth radio adapter
What do you all recommend to put under ball joint on the arm to allow it to sit perpendicular to the arbor press?
Marked the ball joint locations with a metal punch on the backside
Not to deter anyone from getting their hands dirty, but what is the advantage of replacing the ball joints when I can (and just did) order a pair of new arms for less than $120?
A pair for $120 or less, original? Show us...
for example for my 02/98 p/n is 31122228461 left side, 31122228462 right side.
One MTC Control Arm 31122228461 per piece discounted online price $150/piece x 2 = $300
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
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