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Thread: Detailed DIY for CVV Overhaul for the M52TU Motor

  1. #1
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    Detailed DIY for CVV Overhaul for the M52TU Motor

    asdas
    Last edited by Graham E39 528i; 07-26-2014 at 07:52 PM.




  2. #2
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    I think for the first time, EVER, I actually want to do this job!

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    A true enthusiast and citizen giving back to the community.
    Awesome Job !

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    Nice job!

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    Great job! beautiful clear pictures. Thank you.

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    That's better than the repair instructions we get at work on the ISID. Bravo!
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  9. #9
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    DIY redefined
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  10. #10
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    Thanks for sharing.
    Live the e39..!!


  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmw7833 View Post
    Thanks for sharing.
    If I saw this earlier I would have done it myself and saved some $.

  12. #12
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    Nice job.

    Be careful (to late?) with the MDK as they don't like t be disturbed at all. Recently replaced mine as started throwing codes monthly... all after I did the CCV and cleaned the MDK off the car (gently with correct cleaner). Have to reset DME adaption values for new one.

    Play in bowden cable from pedal to MDK is +/- 1.5 mm If I remember.
    Jason

    '90 325iX 5M, '00 528iT 5M Sport (mfg. 5/1999)
    BMW CCA member #130075
    JScott Racing

  13. #13
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    Thanks guys for your very kind words.

    Quote Originally Posted by jase007 View Post
    Be careful (to late?) with the MDK as they don't like t be disturbed at all. Recently replaced mine as started throwing codes monthly... all after I did the CCV and cleaned the MDK off the car (gently with correct cleaner). Have to reset DME adaption values for new one.

    Play in bowden cable from pedal to MDK is +/- 1.5 mm If I remember.
    The throttle cable design is a good one. It is unlikely to get twisted because of the ball end to the cable. The play seemed about the same both before and after removing the throttle body from the car. After firing the car up, everything seemed just fine. A few days later, I got out my Carsoft 6.5 and erased the DME adaptations and did the sequence of four wide open throttle operations. On starting up the car again, it behaved exactly as before, in other words, the adaptation erase made no discernable difference (in this case).




  14. #14
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    Same here. Erasing adaptions on existing pieces (MDK) made no difference on mine. Erasing adaptions after installing a new one (MDK) was required.(30 seconds, 4 WOTs, etc...)

    Great photos.
    Jason

    '90 325iX 5M, '00 528iT 5M Sport (mfg. 5/1999)
    BMW CCA member #130075
    JScott Racing

  15. #15
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    Very nice job on the CCV Graham!!!

    For those looking for CCV info, 1997-1998 share the same CCV, ICV setup.
    The 1999-2003 models were designed and different from 1997-1998 models.

    In case people need the 1997-1998 CCV ICV info, I wrote a DIY here:

    DIY: 1998 528i Oil Line ---> Vanos, CCV, ICV and Alternator Air Duct, Intake Gaskets etc.:
    http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=379225

  16. #16
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    Beautiful write-up! I'm on it as soon as parts arrive. Thanks!

  17. #17
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    Thanks guys!

    I added a few more photos and revised the text to make it easier to follow.




  18. #18
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    how long did it take you to finish the job?

    .. 1999 528i .. Cold and Premium Package ..

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwo1525 View Post
    how long did it take you to finish the job?
    It probably took about 10 hours spread over 3 days. However, I am a very slow mechanic......




  20. #20
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    GREAT instructions! GREAT DIY article! Thank you for taking the time to do this.

    In addition to several other maintenance jobs I just did on my '99 Touring, I replaced the CCV and this DIY made it a lot easier.

    I would like to mention that my car, while it's also a '99, was a little different. It's build date is 9/98 and it did not have the "Return Pipe" (11157520035). There was no connection for it at the end of the "Distribution Piece" and the barb where it attaches to the "Connecting Line" (11611440317) was capped off. So I just capped off the new one when I installed it and didn't use the Return Pipe that I had ordered.

    I wanted to throw this out there for anybody who is about to order the parts to do this job. Take the plastic cover off the top of the engine and look to see if your car has the Return Pipe before you order parts. It's not very expensive, but why buy it if you don't have to?

    1998 ///M3/4/5 | 1999 528iT | 2003 Z4 3.0i

  21. #21
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    I accidentally came across this today thanks to a link by BlueBee on another website. I am honestly impressed. It's just what I've been looking for (M52TU here) and next on my list .... if I survive the suspension-related work staring at me now.

  22. #22
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    A word of caution: Be VERY careful when handling the throttle body (MDK). I was a little too rough with mine and now I am getting EML errors and it goes into limp home mode after a few miles of driving. So I just spent all that time and money and now the car is undriveable until I replace the MDK - at great expense. So use extreme caution.

    1998 ///M3/4/5 | 1999 528iT | 2003 Z4 3.0i

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerM3inGA View Post
    A word of caution: Be VERY careful when handling the throttle body (MDK). I was a little too rough with mine and now I am getting EML errors and it goes into limp home mode after a few miles of driving. So I just spent all that time and money and now the car is undriveable until I replace the MDK - at great expense. So use extreme caution.
    I am sorry you are having problems.

    Could you tell me what you did to your MDK throttle? Did you only remove it, and then replace? Was it dropped or man-handled? Did you clean with an aggressive solvent? Are you absolutely sure the electrical connector was fully inserted and then locked? Was the battery disconnected through this whole procedure? Did you do anything else?

    TIA
    Last edited by Graham E39 528i; 01-17-2011 at 04:30 PM.




  24. #24
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    One of my favorite threads in the whole wide world.

    SI B 11 08 03 March 2009

    SUBJECT
    Oil Separator ***8211; Cold Climate Conditions
    MODELS
    E39 (5 Series) all with M54 engine
    E46 (3 Series) all with M54 engine
    E53 (X5) all with M54 engine
    E60 (5 Series) all with M54 engine
    E83 (X3) all with M54 engine
    E85 (Z4) all with M54 engine

    SITUATION
    Certain areas of the US experience extremely cold climate conditions during the winter months. A small number of
    vehicles in the above-listed Series have experienced problems ranging from leaking or broken valve covers to complete
    engine failure.

    CAUSE
    Moisture accumulating in the engine oil separator; hose to oil dipstick guide tube; or the orifice in the dipstick guide
    tube can freeze. When this occurs, depending on the position of the internal valve, it may either cause high crankcase
    pressures (stuck closed) resulting in valve cover leakage and/or breakage, or cause an oil hydro-lock condition (stuck
    open), which could result in engine damage.


    CORRECTION
    Replace the crankcase vent valve, crankcase vent hoses, and dipstick guide tube.
    Last edited by bimmerfiver; 01-17-2011 at 04:57 PM.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  25. #25
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    I am sorry you are having problems.

    Could you tell me what you did to your MDK throttle? Did you only remove it, and then replace? Was it dropped or man-handled? Did you clean with an aggressive solvent? Are you absolutely sure the electrical connector was fully inserted and then locked? Was the battery disconnected through this whole procedure? Did you do anything else?
    Not your fault, bro. It's all on me! No apology necessary! It probably would've been worse without your excellent DIY.

    Being very familiar with the especially brittle plastic that BMW uses for various engine components, I was reluctant to pop the ball on the end of the throttle cable out of the plastic retainer. I was afraid the stress would break the retainer and I'd be screwed. So I left the cable attached - which meant that I couldn't safely move the MDK out of the way. I had to remove the airbox for the driver's side cabin filter and had the MDK resting on top of the brake fluid reservoir. Where is was promptly knocked off. Not once, but twice. The really ironic part is that the whole point of leaving the cable attached was to prevent damage that would require the purchase of a new MDK.

    Yes, the battery was disconnected because I replaced the oil filter housing gasket and VANOS seals at the same time. The alternator has to be removed to replace the OFHG, and Step 1 is to disconnect the battery.

    Since then, I have taken the MDK back out to try cleaning it. When I put it back in, I made doubly sure that the connector was properly seated. Then I cleared the adaptation values. I didn't help. The MDK is well and truly toast. The real kicker is that I did disconnect the cable the second time I took it out and it popped right out with no problems!

    So the moral of the story is: BE CAREFUL WITH THE MDK UNLESS YOU WANT TO BUY A NEW ONE

    1998 ///M3/4/5 | 1999 528iT | 2003 Z4 3.0i

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