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Thread: Can someone post pics of the Euro spec popup headlamps?

  1. #1
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    Can someone post pics of the Euro spec popup headlamps?

    I'm considering ordering these off gault because my headlamps are not the greatest condition. Just want to see some pics first, I tried looking it up on google but didnt find anything. thanks

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  3. #3
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    Forget it. Gault can't get them 'cuz they're not DOT approved.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. T View Post
    Forget it. Gault can't get them 'cuz they're not DOT approved.


    hopefully they will be up for sale here soon

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. T View Post
    Forget it. Gault can't get them 'cuz they're not DOT approved.
    I remember hearing that too... but since then I have ordered non-dot parts from Gault without a problem. Can't hurt to try right?

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    Actually, if you order the individual components, then you should be able to get it ALL from GAULT. I have ordered the projectors, the buckets, the glass lens, and the adjustment motor all from Charlie and they all showed on my doorstep up within a week.
    Now, if you try to order the whole assembly, then you might run into a problem, but who knows - if you have the cash, then give it a shot.
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  7. #7
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    pictures? How detailed do you need them?














  8. #8
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    I have a complete set of J-specs easily converted to full euro. If interested contact me offline. Canadian owners: how do the LKM's compare?

  9. #9
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    Mine look similar to euros, but not sure. I dont know what each different spec looks like so im just posting a pic. This is from the one that is good condition.


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benzz View Post
    ... I dont know what each different spec looks like so im just posting a pic...
    Basically that is a EURO headlight, but with the J-Spec lens and low beam projector.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benzz View Post
    I'm considering ordering these off gault because my headlamps are not the greatest condition. Just want to see some pics first, I tried looking it up on google but didnt find anything. thanks
    take a look and please tell me that you are the one to take detailed pics of the US-headlight specs that I am allowed to post on other forums!!! Thanks in advance!
    to register your 8 @ www.8coupe.com!

    Best regards from good old Germany Harry!

  12. #12
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    What is that large white knob on the back of the Euro housing?? Never seen that before. Mine have a locking adjuster back there.

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    Just to be contrarian once more, let me suggest again that the prudent motorist might do well to investigate the relative performance of lighting systems before choosing: [ame]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headlamp[/ame]

    Proponents of each headlamp system decry the other as inadequate and unsafe: U.S. proponents of the SAE system claim that the ECE low beam cutoff gives short seeing distances and inadequate illumination for overhead road signs, while international proponents of the ECE system claim that the SAE system produces too much glare.[11] Comparative studies have repeatedly shown that there is little or no overall safety benefit to either SAE or ECE beams; the two systems' acceptance and rejection by various countries is based primarily on inertial and philosophical grounds.[10],[12]


    I had euro headlights and sold them in favor of US-spec after cutting up some smashed ones to have a look. Euros have individual adjustment, but no particular optical advantage. I suppose if you want to drive down the other side of the road when in Canada, it's handy to have that adjustable baffle. The baffle is smaller in the US housing IIRC, doesn't block as much light. And, of course, you can't run HIR headlight bulbs in euro housings. In fact, about your only option (ignoring HID for the moment) for upgrading H1 bulbs is to go higher wattage, since the capsules are so small.

    Years ago there was a definite advantage to Euro housings over US sealed beams. It's not at all clear these days.
    How come the middle half of any project always takes the most time?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max Lumens View Post
    Just to be contrarian once more, let me suggest again that the prudent motorist might do well to investigate the relative performance of lighting systems before choosing: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headlamp

    Proponents of each headlamp system decry the other as inadequate and unsafe: U.S. proponents of the SAE system claim that the ECE low beam cutoff gives short seeing distances and inadequate illumination for overhead road signs, while international proponents of the ECE system claim that the SAE system produces too much glare.[11] Comparative studies have repeatedly shown that there is little or no overall safety benefit to either SAE or ECE beams; the two systems' acceptance and rejection by various countries is based primarily on inertial and philosophical grounds.[10],[12]


    I had euro headlights and sold them in favor of US-spec after cutting up some smashed ones to have a look. Euros have individual adjustment, but no particular optical advantage. I suppose if you want to drive down the other side of the road when in Canada, it's handy to have that adjustable baffle. The baffle is smaller in the US housing IIRC, doesn't block as much light. And, of course, you can't run HIR headlight bulbs in euro housings. In fact, about your only option (ignoring HID for the moment) for upgrading H1 bulbs is to go higher wattage, since the capsules are so small.

    Years ago there was a definite advantage to Euro housings over US sealed beams. It's not at all clear these days.


    The biggest advantages (and why I have EURO) are that:
    1. If you pit or beak the glass, the EURO is about $65 vs. $550 for the US
    2. The adjusters are ALL available for EURO ($11-$13 a piece), the US are NOT.
    3. I can "adjust" the low beam from inside the car on my EURO - the US I can't. (Comes in handy at nighttime on that lonely stretch of road).
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxGR8White View Post
    The biggest advantages (and why I have EURO) are that:
    1. If you pit or beak the glass, the EURO is about $65 vs. $550 for the US
    2. The adjusters are ALL available for EURO ($11-$13 a piece), the US are NOT.
    3. I can "adjust" the low beam from inside the car on my EURO - the US I can't. (Comes in handy at nighttime on that lonely stretch of road).
    Good points; I forgot about the beam leveler switch. I never actually used it much on cars I drove that had it, but still a worthwhile feature. The other points don't apply to me, but are certainly valid for other guys. I can restore glass and I have adjusters.
    How come the middle half of any project always takes the most time?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxGR8White View Post
    The biggest advantages (and why I have EURO) are that:
    1. If you pit or beak the glass, the EURO is about $65 vs. $550 for the US
    2. The adjusters are ALL available for EURO ($11-$13 a piece), the US are NOT.
    3. I can "adjust" the low beam from inside the car on my EURO - the US I can't. (Comes in handy at nighttime on that lonely stretch of road).
    I am a bit cofused. The "adjusment" is for lowering the beams in the event
    of excess passenger weight...

    [QUOTE=ATA197;20270824]I am a bit cofused. The "adjusment" is for lowering the beams in the event
    of excess rear passenger weight. Please correct me if I am mistsken.
    Last edited by ATA197; 09-09-2010 at 11:54 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATA197 View Post
    I am a bit cofused. The "adjusment" is for lowering the beams in the event
    of excess rear passenger weight. Please correct me if I am mistsken.
    True, but with a little bit of ingenuity you can set the switch "low", adjust your individual projector beams to the "normal" setting and when you need that extra bit of light, you drive the switch to the "high" setting - really quite simple.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxGR8White View Post
    True, but with a little bit of ingenuity you can set the switch "low", adjust your individual projector beams to the "normal" setting and when you need that extra bit of light, you drive the switch to the "high" setting - really quite simple.
    Yes, I agree. However with the addition on HID's, why?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATA197 View Post
    Yes, I agree. However with the addition on HID's, why?
    you can never have enough light - It is much like the powerplant on any aircraft, better overpowered, than underpowered.
    I find it comes in very handy on those high speed runs at night during deer season here in Texas...
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxGR8White View Post
    you can never have enough light - It is much like the powerplant on any aircraft, better overpowered, than underpowered.
    I find it comes in very handy on those high speed runs at night during deer season here in Texas...
    Sir, upon reconsideration, the ability to lower the beams should have no ability to raise them. If you adjust the lights in their upper position, how can you expect them to raise any further. This was a preliminary misunderstanding
    inherent with my initial installation of my "Euro"headlights.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxGR8White View Post
    The biggest advantages (and why I have EURO) are that:
    1. If you pit or beak the glass, the EURO is about $65 vs. $550 for the US
    2. The adjusters are ALL available for EURO ($11-$13 a piece), the US are NOT.
    3. I can "adjust" the low beam from inside the car on my EURO - the US I can't. (Comes in handy at nighttime on that lonely stretch of road).
    Good points; I forgot about the beam leveler switch. I never actually used it much on cars I drove that had it, but still a worthwhile feature. The other points don't apply to me, but are certainly valid for other guys. I can restore glass and I have adjusters. I'll stick with the brighter lights.
    How come the middle half of any project always takes the most time?

  22. #22
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    Here is a picture of euro lights


  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. T View Post
    What is that large white knob on the back of the Euro housing?? Never seen that before. Mine have a locking adjuster back there.
    I'm also intrigued by that, neither of my two sets of Euro spec lights has that white knob, no idea what it is, something home-brew maybe?
    Last edited by argonaut; 09-10-2010 at 11:54 AM.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATA197 View Post
    Sir, upon reconsideration, the ability to lower the beams should have no ability to raise them. If you adjust the lights in their upper position, how can you expect them to raise any further. This was a preliminary misunderstanding
    inherent with my initial installation of my "Euro"headlights.
    Set the switch to Position "2". Use the mechanical adjustment screws on the projector assembly to adjust the beam to "normal" driving condition. When you now need "extra" throw, you turn the wheel on the switch to "0" and the projector rotates "up" for additional distance. Has been working just fine on mine ever since I installed them 4 years ago.
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  25. #25
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    I'm not even sure if i really need the whole set up. 1 of my headlamp's frame is completely cracked and it is disconnected from the car on 1 end, also the thing that holds the top was cracked off and they fukin glued the cover back with a silicon sealant so i cant even change my lights !!

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