New & Improved ASC Delete

[Wrekless]

I'm sharing this w/ my bros first
I will need some seat time to verify there are no nasty side effects, but I think I've devised a way to override the default behavior for the ASC function.

I forgot to push the ASC button on one of my sessions at Hallett a couple of weeks ago and it acted like I was starving for gas powering out of the first two hard turns Then I thought "Wait a minute, I just broke the bank fueling up at the track to make sure this wouldn't happen. Oh crap, I didn't punch the ASC button." Pushed the button and it was golden.

So tonight, I finally got around to trying to improve the "depend on the brain-dead human" method of dealing with this issue.

When you push the ASC button (on my year model anyway), it connects an ECU input to 12 volts and toggles the mode. I measured the current when the switch was closed and made a couple of attempts to settle on a resistor/capacitor combo that would take the input up to a voltage high enough to make the ECU think I had pushed the button after turning the key on, but would bleed the voltage off afterwards so that it wouldn't flag a fault for a stuck or shorted switch or wiring.

Initial testing looks good, but I will report back after a little more time to verify.

[dano670]

My switch on my car is a momentary, so every time I drive (other than wet conditions), I shut if off. It doesn't remember, but I seem to remember. There is no need for it in dry, it is just way to invasive and these cars aren't fast enough. Luckily recently, I have an ABS sensor that has decided not to be a team player, so by it's failure to be a participant in the ABS team, it takes the ACS offline as well. This usually happens in the first 50 feet of driving.

[Wrekless]

My switch on my car is a momentary, so every time I drive (other than wet conditions), I shut if off. It doesn't remember, but I seem to remember. There is no need for it in dry, it is just way to invasive and these cars aren't fast enough. Luckily recently, I have an ABS sensor that has decided not to be a team player, so by it's failure to be a participant in the ABS team, it takes the ACS offline as well. This usually happens in the first 50 feet of driving.

I think all the ASC switches are momentary. I usually remember to turn it off, but not always.
I have read that the ASC retards timing and applies the rear brakes under certain conditions (even when there is a fault related to removing the ASC valve from the intake), so I thought it would be better to disable them all.

[z31maniac]

I thought the E36 traction control was purely the additional throttle body/timing?

Either way that's pretty cool! I turn off the "DSC" in my car everytime I start it up.

Now if I knew how to defeat the TQ limiting aspect of the computer in the first two gears.

[SWISS]

I thought after you start the car you could hold it down until it flashed and it was off entirely. The ASC uses a butterfly valve to stop airflow and it also cuts fuel pump voltage in addition to individual wheel braking. It does this in two stages, first it only assists with braking then if it crosses the second threshold it removes engine power to aid the driver in regaining stability. On the Z3 (E36 based) it is an adaptive system and after the battery was disconnected it would kick in sooner for about 2 weeks then you could hurt the tires a little and no light flashing on.

[EricP]

My switch on my car is a momentary, so every time I drive (other than wet conditions), I shut if off. It doesn't remember, but I seem to remember. There is no need for it in dry, it is just way to invasive and these cars aren't fast enough. Luckily recently, I have an ABS sensor that has decided not to be a team player, so by it's failure to be a participant in the ABS team, it takes the ACS offline as well. This usually happens in the first 50 feet of driving.

Could be a relay or the pedal travel sensor as well. That's what mine was.