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Thread: 850i Parasitic Leak causes dead battery

  1. #26
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    The car came with the phone deleted so I assume that there is no wiring for it. The next root is have the GM tested. I know a great electronics guy so when I have some time I will pull it out and have it tested. As for now we seem to have great weather so if this holds up the car will be driven every day.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adrianl View Post
    It's not out cars, as my 8 series is not my daily driver, and she's sat for two weeks before never being touched and starts flawlessly. This however I know does not help the OP's issue.
    I let mine sit under 40" of snow for almost a month this winter. Started immediately.
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    Last edited by jerry920; 09-01-2010 at 05:20 PM.
    1992 - BWM 850i

  3. #28
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    Quick question about the general module. If I get a used one does it matter if I get one for the north American market and put it in the euro car? Also do I have to get it coded for my specific car or could I just put in any working 850i module and have it work flawlessly?

  4. #29
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    Hi,
    I'm also plagued by a .5A draw at the fuse F33. The green relays tested ok.
    I have just replaced the GM capacitors.
    Plugged it back: still .5A draw...
    Any body else went into the same troubles?

  5. #30
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    aeronotix: While measuring the F33 current draw at 0.5 A (and expecting a lower draw), remove K72 (the lower one of both green relays in the rear power distribution box). Does that drop the current draw to normal levels or does it make no change at all?
    Last edited by revtor; 02-05-2015 at 01:34 AM.

  6. #31
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    My 850 also tends to discharge both batteries (both new 80Ah), so i keep it on a C-tek charger constantly... Sometimes, even after a whole week of being untouched, the lower part of the instrument panel (mileage counter) is lit. Nothing else seems unussual, the trunk lights go out after 16 minutes... What could it be?

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ledo View Post
    My 850 also tends to discharge both batteries (both new 80Ah), so i keep it on a C-tek charger constantly... Sometimes, even after a whole week of being untouched, the lower part of the instrument panel (mileage counter) is lit. Nothing else seems unussual, the trunk lights go out after 16 minutes... What could it be?
    Mine did this - with intermittent odometer light illuminations - until I "properly" removed the old stock phone (it had initially been deactivated by simply cutting cables). Oddly, the light still came on intermittently for a week or so after this process before finally extinguishing for good. I posted my stock cell phone removal process here a few months ago - may want to search for it. I still keep my car on a Deltran 24/7/365, but those odd odometer illuminations have disappeared - at least for now. The batteries definitely used to discharge after a week or so - not sure if it was the phone or not - and haven't experimented with removing the Deltran to see if that solved the problem.

    Edit: Here it is - http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...+phone+removal
    Last edited by Kimolaoha; 02-05-2015 at 11:26 AM.
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  8. #33
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    In this discussion mr Winks had the exact same problem as I have now.
    During this discussion in the end there was no solution, and mr Winks did not report that the problem was fixed.

    I have exact the same problem. I have a 850CI form jan. 1996. I live in the Netherlands, so close to Germany and I suspect the car was delivered directly from Germany to the Netherlands. I bought it in a garage who had it from the first owner, with 30.000 km on the clock, in 1997. So I own it now almost 20 years.

    I removed the two bulbs from the trunklights to get lost of this current and could leave the trunk open.

    I measured all with the trunk open.

    Tried also with the trunk closed and the Ameter outside. Same numbers.

    So, the data:
    measuring current, my car draws ab. 2.8 A. directly after any action.
    After ab. 5 minutes it falls back to 0.44 A. (after hearing some clicks from relais.)
    Waiting the rest of the 16 minutes does not change anything.
    In every situation I become 0,44 A. (trunk open, trunk closed, central lock ON, central lock OFF)

    when I remove fuse 33, it falls back to 0,13A
    when I remove fuse 43, it falls back to 0,03A (sometimes 0,04), so 0,035
    When I remove the two green relais , rests 0,16A
    during this (2 relais still pulled), pulling F33 does not change anything
    during this (2 relais still pulled), pulling F43 rests 0,04 again.
    reinstalling F43 gives 0,11 one minute later 0,16
    Bottom relais replugged, gives 0,16 , some later 0,29
    top relais replugged also gives 0,45
    then all is reinstalled.

    I read about the capacitors of the GM, and I inserted new capacitors. (I am an electronic engineer myself, and have all parts in house). Visual inspection of the GM does not show any fault. Result all the same.
    I tested the two green relais while they were out, and they work perfect. Draws about 0,1 A
    I removed the RM and opened it. All looks perfect, and all relais move perfect, when I move them by hand.

    Further, I have a second problem, from which I hoped it was related to the high current problem.
    The right door switch for the window opening does not work, while the switch on the driver side does work to open the passengers window. Also the lowering of the passenger site window at moving the door handle, does not work. I hope this will be fixed when the high current problem is fixed, but I would not be surprised if this is a second fault.

    So, I wonder what I could do next (except buying a new GM + RM and then finding out that it was not the solution)
    A short answer is really appriciated.
    Thank you
    Emile Bisschop .

  9. #34
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    Emile61: Let's assume your general module (GM) and relay module (RM) are okay. Judging from your description it would seem something is preventing the GM from entering sleep mode. I wonder if the issues with the passenger door are related. A bad microswitch can occur, but in your case 4 switches have failed (window up, window down, inner door handle and outer door handle) which is extremely unlikely. All 4 switches are read by the passenger-side door module which communicates with the GM over an undocumented bus. Maybe something is wrong with the passenger-side door module? A malfunctioning door module could keep the GM from sleeping. I can't explain why the driver-side window switches can still operate the passenger window, though - it also requires the passenger-side door module.

    Do you at any chance have access to a BMW DIS or INPA diagnostic system? It would be interesting to see whether any fault codes are stored and what the GM can still read/operate from the passenger-side door module.

  10. #35
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    Fuse 30 controls more than just the phone

    Figured I'd revive this thread to pass on some info I discovered. Right after I purchased my car, I discovered that one of my 3-year old interstate batteries was essentially dead. Lots of forum research on parasitic battery drain led me to check to see if my mobile phone had been properly disconnected. It had not. Apparently an improperly disconnected mobile phone can be a source of parasitic battery drain. Again, my research discovered I had to disconnect the phone in 4 areas (other than the console):

    1) X400 connector (8 pin) located on top of the left rear shock tower
    2) Antenna cable (co-axial) located on the phone module inside the amplifier panel in the trunk
    3) DB-25 connector located onthe phone module inside the amplifier panel in the trunk
    4) Fuse 30 should be pulled. This fuse is located in the rear power distribution box above the driver’s side (left) battery in the trunk (far right column, 4th one up).

    Unbeknownst to me, pulling fuse 30 disabled the remote locking feature commanded by my key FOBs. The fuse panel label in the trunk only says “Telephone” for fuse 30. Clearly the fuse controls more than just that.

    Sean


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    Last edited by Sniff38; 04-19-2017 at 12:47 PM.

  11. #36
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    Hi Revtor. Should the consumer-cut-out cut all power usage? I fitted a permanent USB slot in place of the cigarette and the LED light on it remains permanently lit. Parasitic drain on the batteries was bad before I fitted this so not sure if it's got worse.

    Thanks

  12. #37
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    jeffbebe: The consumer cut-out relays only interrupt power to the interior lights, glove box light and luggage compartment lights. In essence lights that you might not immediately notice during daytime and which may drain the batteries if a door or lid was left open.

    The cigarette lighter socket is permanently powered so it's best not to leave consumers plugged in.

  13. #38
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    Thanks

  14. #39
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    Still having issues

    Revtor, I apologize fir my delayed answer. The 850 that I renamed "prince of darkness" due to the recurrent battery drain was put on the back burner.
    I'm still having same exact issue after replacing the RM and GM with new caps. I purchased another GM that I also rebuilt with no luck.
    I stripped down the car: it had an aftermarket infrared locking system (Viper) and radio. I removed the 2 add-on systems back to factory and CD43 radio.
    Phone disconnected
    I also disconnected the lamp control module, body module, MID, disconnected the 2 doors main disconnects at the hinge locations to isolate door components (door modules), wipers relays, No luck.
    If I pull K72: still a current draw.
    Nobody in Arkansas has the equipment to check.
    I start to hate that car.

    Quote Originally Posted by revtor View Post
    aeronotix: While measuring the F33 current draw at 0.5 A (and expecting a lower draw), remove K72 (the lower one of both green relays in the rear power distribution box). Does that drop the current draw to normal levels or does it make no change at all?

  15. #40
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    That's what I was dreading the most: having to troubleshoot wiring damage.
    I'm having terrible luck with this car: broken synchro on the babied 6 speed transmission, having to find a replacement gearbox, both door handles broke at the same time leaving me locked out, suspension shimmy requiring $$ parts, 2 tow truck runs due to failed fuel pump & crankshaft position sensor. Now having to leave it plugged as a Nissan leaf so it can crank over after sitting for 5 days. And it has way too low mileage to start giving trouble.
    I have to admit without the help I could find on this forum and online it would have ended up in the Arkansas river.
    I'll probably have to man up and inspect the wiring. i'm actually quite tempted to ditch it and simplify the body harness with the retrofit of an E36 harness.
    Thanks for your all your guidances though!

    Quote Originally Posted by CDO5OO1A View Post
    You can find the errant component or path with a sensitive clamp on current meter. You'll need an enlarged photocopy of the wiring diagram to mark off wires that show ZERO current. Start at the top of the wiring diagram and work your way down. Occasionally it turns out to be two wires that have rubbed themselves together and are now touching through the insulation. A small sensitive current meter will measure milli-amps when zero'ed correctly.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by aeronotix View Post
    That's what I was dreading the most: having to troubleshoot wiring damage.
    I'm having terrible luck with this car: broken synchro on the babied 6 speed transmission, having to find a replacement gearbox, both door handles broke at the same time leaving me locked out, suspension shimmy requiring $$ parts, 2 tow truck runs due to failed fuel pump & crankshaft position sensor. Now having to leave it plugged as a Nissan leaf so it can crank over after sitting for 5 days. And it has way too low mileage to start giving trouble.
    I have to admit without the help I could find on this forum and online it would have ended up in the Arkansas river.
    I'll probably have to man up and inspect the wiring. i'm actually quite tempted to ditch it and simplify the body harness with the retrofit of an E36 harness.
    Thanks for your all your guidances though!

    Keep looking for gremlins.. Mine had a LoJack under the dash that was blinking away (subscription probably terminated years ago).
    Narrow it down to a fuse, then check the ETM for where that fuse goes. Reading and understanding the ETM is like looking into the car's DNA!

    '94 525i, '89 735i, '91 850i, '81 MB 380SLC (For Sale), '00 323i -- Trying to collect them all, just need a 1 & 6

  17. #42
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    HI, update on the troubleshoot:
    I removed all aftermarket installations and inspected wiring at known to be troublesome spot. Nada..
    I think I may have 2 bad relay modules (the original one and the spare one I bought on Ebay).
    Anybody would be kind enough to test them on a good functioning car?
    I don't of course pay for shipping both ways and more for the time spent.
    Bon weekend!

    Quote Originally Posted by EEDegreeToDrive View Post
    Keep looking for gremlins.. Mine had a LoJack under the dash that was blinking away (subscription probably terminated years ago).
    Narrow it down to a fuse, then check the ETM for where that fuse goes. Reading and understanding the ETM is like looking into the car's DNA!

  18. #43
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    Pin assignment for the GM and RM

    HI,
    To understand if I have a localized issue on the GM/RM/relays and not the rest of the car I prepared a test bench outside of the car including the GM/RM/K70/K73/K15/K30/interior light relays. Both the GM and spare one I got on eBay are still not going asleep (.33A). See Excel snapshot attachments, the highlighted pins are wired. The test bench works exactly like in the car: I installed 2 lights to simulate the trunk light with the switch and interior lights. Trunk light never goes out and interior works good (if I momentarily ground pin 6 or 7 on X332 to simulate door opening, interior light turn on for 10s. Should I wire anything else on the GM/RM to make it complete so it goes asleep?
    I also prepared the attached pdf to recap pin assignment wire colors and function for helping others in similar trouble..

    Quote Originally Posted by aeronotix View Post
    HI, update on the troubleshoot:
    I removed all aftermarket installations and inspected wiring at known to be troublesome spot. Nada..
    I think I may have 2 bad relay modules (the original one and the spare one I bought on Ebay).
    Anybody would be kind enough to test them on a good functioning car?
    I don't of course pay for shipping both ways and more for the time spent.
    Bon weekend!
    BMW E31 GM_RM pins.pdfScreenshot_20170620-012512.jpgScreenshot_20170620-012450.jpgScreenshot_20170620-012403.jpg20170620_010730.jpgQUOTE=aeronotix;29743860]HI, update on the troubleshoot:
    I removed all aftermarket installations and inspected wiring at known to be troublesome spot. Nada..
    I think I may have 2 bad relay modules (the original one and the spare one I bought on Ebay).
    Anybody would be kind enough to test them on a good functioning car?
    I don't of course pay for shipping both ways and more for the time spent.
    Bon weekend![/QUOTE]

  19. #44
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  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by aeronotix View Post
    HI,
    To understand if I have a localized issue on the GM/RM/relays and not the rest of the car I prepared a test bench outside of the car including the GM/RM/K70/K73/K15/K30/interior light relays. Both the GM and spare one I got on eBay are still not going asleep (.33A). See Excel snapshot attachments, the highlighted pins are wired. The test bench works exactly like in the car: I installed 2 lights to simulate the trunk light with the switch and interior lights. Trunk light never goes out and interior works good (if I momentarily ground pin 6 or 7 on X332 to simulate door opening, interior light turn on for 10s. Should I wire anything else on the GM/RM to make it complete so it goes asleep?
    I also prepared the attached pdf to recap pin assignment wire colors and function for helping others in similar trouble..
    On my last interaction/transaction with Tom/Wuffer, he included spare cables for me to create the test-bed for my repairs in the manner you're attempting. However, I'm not sure how faithfully one can recreate a test environment for the GM without door modules and the rest of the network.. there are many things part of that system, but you're on the right track. I intend to revisit my test bench after a few other projects are checked off (including a theater show I'm trying to learn a part for in my spare time!)
    Are you checking all of this against the ETM for your model year? (EDIT: After reviewing your spreadsheets, it appears you must be referencing the ETM!)

    I'm not sure what your skills are like, but I've seen the job botched several times(~5-10)! Some egregious, others a little more subtle. If you want me to look at one or more and/or rework the boards, I can do that.
    However, If the job looks perfect, and it appears you're using good parts, then I won't need to rework it..

    Are you also removing power/batteries before reconnecting it? The GM isn't happy when it doesn't come up in the correct sequence with other modules..

    Remember that the door handles can wake up the car(not just door open).. you could have a problem with a microswitch in the handle, or a door module itself.. You could try unplugging them I suppose, but not sure if that'll work as expected for testing since you might run into other issues.

    Turn your dome light on... does it shut off after 16 minutes? Perhaps your GM is working OK, but something else is still misbehaving?
    Is your current the typical 500mA when the car is awake with doors closed, or is it higher than that? (As you know it should drop below 50mA after 16min with the phone out and no aftermarket loads)

    In my experience (~5 locally, and probably 50 mail order repairs), I've only had one module not behave properly after repair. I had a spare module lying around, we swapped it in, and repeated the current test and everything was OK, so in this one case (Kevin in VA), the capacitors didn't resolve the issue. (I've since re-examined that board and tested a few other things to no avail!)
    Last edited by EEDegreeToDrive; 06-20-2017 at 09:51 PM.

    '94 525i, '89 735i, '91 850i, '81 MB 380SLC (For Sale), '00 323i -- Trying to collect them all, just need a 1 & 6

  21. #46
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    Reviewing the GM pinouts, most of these things must be internally pulled up to +12V or +5V ("input is grounded when A/B/C"), so it should be pretty straightforward to emulate most of this stuff in normal state by simply not connecting anything..
    Setting up a matrix of push buttons would be pretty neat if a user/customer had a problem with a particular system ("my intensive wash never works", etc)

    Some of the "connects to the GM/RM/Kxx" will take a little digging.. but many are simple 1/2-wire communications, typically there's a transistor sending out a command, and a resistor receiving responses, timing and protocol are a mystery though, but probably simple with a scope
    Additionally, the "Activates Left rear side window closing" and some of the 'activates...' pins on the RM might a little tricky to follow or understand without the relevant pages from the ETM..

    It seems like they grouped most of the inputs together and outputs together on similar connectors.. You definitely need a set of pigtails from a scrapped car though!

    Some things I'd consider in your test setup..
    ground "the wipers to reset position input", and perhaps "wiper relay park" (might try to make virtual "wipers" go to home if not present)
    ground: washer fluid, since it might wake up the MID for nuissance alert

    You might try measuring the open inputs with a multimeter when powered to see if any have a short to ground or bad internal pull up resistor from aftermarket installed equipment that could have caused damage

    You've inspired me.. I think I need to build my test setup.. What one really needs is a die-cast model of an 850i that we can stick a bunch of LEDs in so we can test an LKM too!!!
    Last edited by EEDegreeToDrive; 06-20-2017 at 10:33 PM. Reason: clarifications

    '94 525i, '89 735i, '91 850i, '81 MB 380SLC (For Sale), '00 323i -- Trying to collect them all, just need a 1 & 6

  22. #47
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    Your test setup is a great idea. While replacing the caps you could provide a service to check each functions of the gm/RM combo after you defined a test plan. With what I understood the interfaces are mostly analog except between the GM and RM and I bus. The connection to the door modules seems tricky yet signals seems to go out only from the RM to the doors modules. So if the modules are not connected it should be fine. Before I setup the bench I also disconnected both doors main disconnect to rule a short out. A very important input from the doors are the 2 discretes going to the pins 6 and 7 to the X332. I tested them by grounding the pins and removing ground: it works: 10s later the bench light goes off. If I leave the pins grounded over 17mn, still light on. I did not set up a test area for the wiper functions as all features were working fine after you replaced the caps from my GMs. Reproducing all the relay setup from the trunk areach is easy. I could map it for reference if interested.
    I'm dangerous enough to understand analog logic but not equipped for digital.
    Since i,my working now off the car I also ruled out any other variables such as aftermarket hidden creatures and phone. No other fuse other than f43 f33 was pulling amps before I worked off the chassis.
    Prince of darkness is driving me nuts...

  23. #48
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    A few more comments inline--
    Quote Originally Posted by EEDegreeToDrive View Post
    Reviewing the GM pinouts, most of these things must be internally pulled up to +12V or +5V ("input is grounded when A/B/C"), so it should be pretty straightforward to emulate most of this stuff in normal state by simply not connecting anything..

    You might try measuring the open inputs with a multimeter when powered to see if any have a short to ground or bad internal pull up resistor from aftermarket installed equipment that could have caused damage in the past.. i.e. If the internal pull up resistor (GM) is somehow damaged or not pulled up to +12V as suggested in the ETM, then it would be have as if it was always shorted/pulled to ground..
    Similarly, you can probably measure the voltage of the wires in the car (or resistance to ground) to confirm things like the door pins..

    <snip>
    Some things I'd consider in your test setup..
    ground "the wipers to reset position input", and perhaps "wiper relay park" (might try to make virtual "wipers" go to home if not present)
    ground: washer fluid, since it might wake up the MID for nuissance alert

    ^^^^^^^^^^^Either of these things might be causing a current problem, especially if the wipers aren't electrically in the 'home" position.. Without wipers connected, the GM may be attempting to command the wiper relays to move, though I imagine even this would stop after a few seconds or few minutes, certainly by 16 minutes..

    Some of the "connects to the GM/RM/Kxx" will take a little digging.. but many are simple 1/2-wire communications, typically there's a transistor sending out a command, and a resistor receiving responses, timing and protocol are a mystery though, but probably simple with a scope
    Additionally, the "Activates Left rear side window closing" and some of the 'activates...' pins on the RM might a little tricky to follow or understand without the relevant pages from the ETM..
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^The GM communicates with the other electronic modules, the RM is just that, a bunch of dumb relays. i.e. The GM might sink 50-100mA per relay, but the relay module will then switch the multi-amp loads like motors, lock actuators, certain lights, etc.


    Quote Originally Posted by aeronotix View Post
    Your test setup is a great idea. While replacing the caps you could provide a service to check each functions of the gm/RM combo after you defined a test plan.
    ^^^^^^^^^^^A general purpose, ~30 function test of the GM would probably double the cost of the repair service.. That said, a specific request from a member, like my GM mostly works, but I've had this particular problem with X or Y might warrant a more detailed check. I certainly plan to modify my test to make sure I can verify 16 minute sleep cycle.. Perhaps I can prove that it's possible to verify the timer behavior on a bench with one of my 'good' modules in the next day or 3.


    With what I understood the interfaces are mostly analog except between the GM and RM and I bus. The connection to the door modules seems tricky yet signals seems to go out only from the RM to the doors modules.
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^Be careful with certain assumptions-- and terms like signals-- The RM actually drives outputs, motors, actuators, lights, etc. Nearly all of the other inputs and "intelligent" communication happens via the GM. The GM is the brain, the RM is the braun.. The 'signals' are sometimes pulse train that do intra-module communication-- like a morse code between door modules and the general module.If you short these or try to interface to them without knowing the 'pattern', all bets are off, and unpredictable modes may be possible.

    So if the modules are not connected it should be fine. Before I setup the bench I also disconnected both doors main disconnect to rule a short out.
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^Agreed, with them disconnected you should be correct for sleep testing. However, other inputs, like the door handle (which wakes the car, turns the interior lights on, and droops the windows) are collected by the door modules and sent to the GM via the pulse train (or communication/ibus lines). Without a door module present, I assume the GM will have sane default choices (like it will assume the doors are closed and not being 'handled')

    A very important input from the doors are the 2 discretes going to the pins 6 and 7 to the X332. I tested them by grounding the pins and removing ground: it works: 10s later the bench light goes off. If I leave the pins grounded over 17mn, still light on.
    ^^^^^^^^Agreed, one would think this should be enough of a test to qualify it's working properly-- something is still keeping it awake, though.Remember, when the car is running/on/accessory, the GM won't go to sleep too, make sure none of your power inputs are emulating this condition--

    I did not set up a test area for the wiper functions as all features were working fine after you replaced the caps from my GMs. Reproducing all the relay setup from the trunk areach is easy. I could map it for reference if interested.
    ^^^^^^^I think simplicity is better in this case-- the more things you add, the more likely you'll complicate matters.

    I'm dangerous enough to understand analog logic but not equipped for digital.
    ^^^^If you're swapping in relays and stuff, they're basically 'digital' devices from a logic standpoint.. The only true analog devices are things like temperature/pressure sensors.
    Since i,my working now off the car I also ruled out any other variables such as aftermarket hidden creatures and phone. No other fuse other than f43 f33 was pulling amps before I worked off the chassis.
    Prince of darkness is driving me nuts...
    ^^^^^^^^^^^My point was that aftermarket parts (improperly connected) could have permanently damaged something. What aftermarket stuff WAS connected to the car that you removed? e.g. If the GM has a transistor output that drives a relay, and someone connected a remote starter to that wire and was back-feeding an output to the GM (or any module for that matter), that transistor may be shorted now, and that could manifest itself in all sorts of wacky ways.

    '94 525i, '89 735i, '91 850i, '81 MB 380SLC (For Sale), '00 323i -- Trying to collect them all, just need a 1 & 6

  24. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Damascus, Maryland USA
    Posts
    1,448
    My Cars
    E31/32/34 VWJetta A3TDI
    Mwwwhaaaa---
    I sat down this evening to build the first part of my benchtop GM test fixture..

    Initially I was concerned about the wire colors not matching any of the tables/diagrams-- Then I pulled the connectors apart and sure enough, different wiring/different pins used!

    However, the cable pigtails I have don't actually go to the GM! While the GM does have black, yellow, and white connectors/cables (all 26 pins, varying # of wires), those same connectors are used dozens of places in the car!
    BMW's pretty good about color conflicts in any one co-located place (EKM, GM, LKM), but not across the car!

    A little sleuthing revealed the pigtails I have seem to be wired for:
    Black: Antitheft/DWA module X252
    White (aka 'Natural'): Antitheft/DWS module X301
    Yellow: Still not sure what this goes to! But there are about 10-15 other 26pin connectors, and at least 4 of them are yellow!

    So tonight's lesson,, Don't assume all colored 26 pin connectors from the car are wired the same! :-)

    '94 525i, '89 735i, '91 850i, '81 MB 380SLC (For Sale), '00 323i -- Trying to collect them all, just need a 1 & 6

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Little Rock, Ar, USA
    Posts
    62
    My Cars
    '98 M3 '79 635csi '74cs
    Nice - glad I'm inspiring!
    I had an aftermarket alarm correctly wired to the unlock/lock pins of the RM, removed it just in case. Otherwise aftermarket radio and I put back a CD43 on the original radio disconnect.

    Quote Originally Posted by EEDegreeToDrive View Post
    Mwwwhaaaa---
    I sat down this evening to build the first part of my benchtop GM test fixture..

    Initially I was concerned about the wire colors not matching any of the tables/diagrams-- Then I pulled the connectors apart and sure enough, different wiring/different pins used!

    However, the cable pigtails I have don't actually go to the GM! While the GM does have black, yellow, and white connectors/cables (all 26 pins, varying # of wires), those same connectors are used dozens of places in the car!
    BMW's pretty good about color conflicts in any one co-located place (EKM, GM, LKM), but not across the car!

    A little sleuthing revealed the pigtails I have seem to be wired for:
    Black: Antitheft/DWA module X252
    White (aka 'Natural'): Antitheft/DWS module X301
    Yellow: Still not sure what this goes to! But there are about 10-15 other 26pin connectors, and at least 4 of them are yellow!

    So tonight's lesson,, Don't assume all colored 26 pin connectors from the car are wired the same! :-)

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