Nothing too exciting for anyone else but I'm pretty psyched.
Got my new gas tank, verified that the two transfer pumps fit nicely. My fuel system design is a go! And my VAC billet filter block arrived today. I thought I'd have buyer's remorse about this thing, with all the stories about VAC, but I gotta say it sure is nice. There's no way I could get it made for less.
Engine builder has sorted out some other projects that were in the way and said there should be real progress this week. So hopefully by this weekend I'll have something more interesting to see.
Ready with pressure/temp senders, and turbo oil feed. Will eventually swap the top aux plug for the accusump feed.
Last edited by TheJuggernaut; 02-03-2011 at 09:25 PM.
IT HAS BEGUN.
Looks like I got really lucky with the engine, it's like new inside. The block, crank and cams look like new. There is no wear on the rod bearings, very little carbon buildup in the cylinders. I'm so relieved that the engine is as good as I hoped, great starting point.
Block and head get machined starting tomorrow, could take a few weeks for the head, going to a legendary local racing machine shop, and like most people of that caliber, they work when they feel like it.
One thing the builder told me that doesn't really jive with what I hear everyone say on this forum is the block finish. He says that the smoothness is actually not such a huge deal, being square is. So he says unless the block needs to get decked, which is unlikely, it will just be cleaned up, not refinished. The guy's work speaks for itself so I'm going to roll with whatever he thinks is best but just thought I'd mention it...
Wow, Im having flashbacks to building my motor....
Are you going to torque plate hone the block? Thats the only thing I wish I had done on my build. That is probably what your engine builder is referring to about being square right?
Just tell the builder that the MLS reccomends the certain finish for proper sealing, and that many have issues with installing the MLS on an unprepped block...
Lovin the progress!!
He made a torque plate for the boring but I mean if the block is square and true, which is likely, it won't get decked and refinished. I'll try to innocently confirm and send him the Cometic FAQ about the 50 RA but this is not exactly his first time building a big power motor with an MLS gasket. I don't want to be like this one douchebag I know who drops his car off to get serviced and tells the mechanic that the Bentley is in the back seat if he needs any torque specs. I'd probably reply to that with "fuck you, do it yourself".
eXACTLY.
When I brought my Eagles to my local machinist I began to explain to him how they may be out of BMW spec.
I started to give him some numbers to look for and he was just staring at me as if he was waiting for me to stop talking.
Awkward.
He then said, "Yeah, I have the specs. I'll let you know by tomorrow."
Specs are what machinists/builder do.
Talked to my builder again, he still said that in his opinion and experience, attaining the actual Cometic figure is really not that important but I sound like I want it for peace of mind so that's what he'll do.
I dig this guy more and more every time I see or talk to him. I know a lot of guys in the business who would have told me that if I know how to do their job better, to come get my shit and do it.
Yeah, he sounds like a cool dude. I think pretty much the whole reason for such a smooth surface is so that upon expansion/ contraction the gasket is going to move... And when it does, if the surface is rough is can/will scrub the Viton off the gasket and cause leaks..
But again, old experts have their way of doing things, and if they work, they work.
If the block is torque plate bored, and is "square", then maybe this can be more important than the surface finish.
Regardless....
No FI updates yet, still waiting on the engine. Hoping to hear soon about taking pics of machined head/block.
For now, grinding through the tedious work that needs doing. Once some plumbing bits come in, going to start installing my fuel system. For now, replumbed the brakes with all new lines and a prop valve. Need to weld on some studs to mount it still. I might even clean the engine bay but there's still so much to do.
Hurts my fingers just looking at this again:
Adapted the OE DME bracket to hold VEMS finally (couldn't bring myself to drill the case of my shiny new box before):
Pulled the dash, removed the heater, cleaned up some wiring (very minor as opposed to what most guys whine about in BMW racecar builds, I found the wiring to be very sparse as is). Removed the steering lock and ignition switch.
Gonna make a new panel for the radio hole to cover the whole thing. GOing to have my LCD and emerg button like before up top, but add: ignition switch, start button, fuel prepump switch, main fuel pump switch, fan override (either off/high or even off/normal/high):
Disassembled the front end for the intercooler which should be here next week:
Engine still being built. I knew it would take a long time but starting to get a bit antsy. Would at least like to see it back from the machine shops. I know progress is being made since they recently asked me about the engine and boost specs, and followed up saying they will port the exhaust since it's tiny but intake is fine.
But I got some FI-related updates so why not...
Got me an intercooler. Big sumbitch but it's gonna fit, I found a way. Thank God for diving boards and the huge iS airdam. To clear the pusher radiator fan I'll need to angle it but that's ok. 22x12x4.5" core, 3" pipes. I really like the end-tank design. Has built in bosses for mounting and they are segregated - there's a divider going from the middle of the nozzle down the long end of the tank, ensuring half the flow goes to half the core.
Finished removing the heater core, rewired the ignition to push-button, built new dash panels and upholstered in vynil, turned out very nice! Will need to add the boost and fuel pressure gauges later.
Got my fuel setup figured out. This week I'm gonna mount it in the spare tire well and wire it. Ruined two hose ends but finally learned a reliable way to assemble these damn teflon hoses. Will bend new alu hard lines for fuel supply/return, then braided teflon lines from the pump to hard line, then to the rail, and from rail to hard line, then to swirl pot. The two in-tank stock transfer pumps will feed the swirl pot through teflon lines, then the top -8 overflow back into the tank.
Mounted the mcoupe rear end, test-fitted the new 65L tank - had to chop out the old outboard fuel pump brackets to make it fit.
I never thought I'd be so proud to have something hot purple on my car:
Nice Intercooler
its 24-12-4.5 not 22
According to Treadstone the core is 22, overall 30".
E85?
I heart diving boards.
Engine build is progressing very slowly. Well, let me clarify - the machine work. Supposedly it's almost done. The builder says the head looks awesome, nicely ported. Should have it back this week or the next.
But in the mean time, I've made some progress that I'm proud of. Probably remedial stuff to many guys here but running my own fuel lines and all new brake lines was pretty scary. Not gonna lie, I did not have much faith since it was my first time. But you can't learn until you try.
I'd like to give credit to dcvee here for the inspiration. I was not very comfortable with running soft lines all the way and a few bundles of 20 ft teflon Aeroquip hose adds up to a raping.
Can't see it too well but I also used the Adel clamps to separate and space the lines in areas where they are free-air (there's one such arrangement in the bottom right of the pic, but can't really see anything - basically an Adel clamp on each, bolted together).
Next step, make the Aeroquip teflon softlines and secure the pump/surge tank/plate.
My car came debadged from the factory. Going to fix that.
Also got my aluminum engine mounts and trans mount cups from AKG. Also got their Stage 2 shifter. Wife caught me in this unflattering position but not being one to pass up the opportunity to embarrass myself, here it is:
.-=[ Kenny ]=-. See the BFc Drag Racing Standings List for BMW street cars. Watch my drag racing movies on YouTube. Some info on
BMW turbo street car Drag Racing 101
lol at the last pic.! Have you thought about cutting the front bumper up and across for more air flow over IC?
My manifolds powering 8sec and over 1000rwp cars
Home of the highest HP stock M30 in the world 550rwhp/622rwtq
1/4 mile---> 9.81 @138 C4 Auto
10.08 in car vid --->https://youtu.be/OiinFhUomjg
Dyno vid... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7aM7..._order&list=UL
Dude, I can see some leg skin.
You KNOW where I was lookin'!!!!
Rod in hand, mouth open and strong.
Alrighty, guess I should dust this thing off. I was hoping to wait until the engine was finished, alas... but there is significant progress with it
Finished the fuel system:
And the dash (just need to run the main pump relay wire and tuck the wiring)
Got the tires from my buddy, 275/40/17. Front will fit easy, rear, not so much. Might still try to hammer further but I can probably live with it like this for now until I do the fender flares with some proper meat, maybe raise the ride height a bit:
(raising the car off the jackstands, fully compressed, lowest possible height)
Block and head machining done. Those who have followed this in private know what an ordeal it's been waiting to see this stuff finished (mainly the porting/head work by John Rossiter)
Main studs upgraded to 11mm (vs stock size)
Head studs upgraded to 12mm RB26 (vs stock size)
Head work is so nice, pictures don't do the ports justice. The guy said this is the nicest condition BMW head he's ever seen. He flow tested it too, said it was exceptional (I can see if I can get #s for anyone interested)
They reamed out the holes with the oil passages:
That's it for now... hopefully I'll see it assembled in a few weeks, I'm pretty much ready to install it.
Last edited by TheJuggernaut; 06-18-2011 at 05:55 PM.
Great stuff man! Cant wait to see the dyno curves with the head porting.
Bookmarks