I am building a new drive shaft for my race car and I found a flange that is direct bolt on the BMW 4 bolt diff yoke.
Here are the Part Numbers and a couple cross numbers.
Spicer 2-2-1679
Rockford R2-2-799-1
Neapco N2-2-799-1
Meritor 131N-2-799-1
PTI (Powertrain Industries) 3102-15
It is a Toyota conversion flange. The pilot that goes into the diff yoke is 46 mm instead of the BMW 47 mm but the bolt whole line up perfectly and are the right size. It bolted right up to all the E21, E30, and E36 diffs I have at the shop.
Specs on the different flanges.
http://www.rockforddriveline.com/2_F...es_2006_10.pdf
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ange_Yokes.pdf
I picked up the Spicer flange for $44 from Northern Drivetrain LLC.
http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/pr...-2-2-1679.html
We use the Spicer Toyota flange for the BMW, however, after cleaning the flange, we press fit a micro sleeve (about .0195" wall thickness) onto the pilot, and use locktite to make sure it stays in place.
Also, the pilot is too long to fit properly onto the BMW differential, so we also machine the pilot to the correct height.
Please note that we include shipping with the cost of the flange.
Thats good to know there is options and nice to see a fellow South Dakotan on here too
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/
has a 1310 flange already modified for a BMW 188 differential (square-flange type). Works great!
E30-LS1 Swap Guide and Kits, email us at e30ls1@gmail.com !!! or check our website e30ls1.wordpress.com
Now if only I didn't have to swap out my 6 bolt flange for a 4 bolt flange....
Last edited by Fendbass22; 08-09-2010 at 11:54 AM.
E36 5.0 Coyote DOHC V8 Swap - Build Thread Here
I ordered a new shaft from driveshaftshop.com
ask for the supra shaft with the bmw flange to diff. 3 inch cromoly and 1310 cromly joints.
built 1.5jz, big fuel+76mm-billet. 9 second dream https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtVqp3O1RDQ
Thank you to the original poster for his efforts in tracking down this info and sharing it with us.
Good point. Proper yoke to flange fitment is an aspect that we should take seriously.
Drivelines are critical for alignment, balance, angularity etc, hence the tight tolerances of hub to flange interface, (hubcentric). If the hub doesn't fit snugly, it should not be used on this critical parts union. Trying to save a buck buying an improperly fitting flange most likely will end up costing more in the long run trying to track down an annoying driveline vibration that was caused by the improperly fitting flange, and in most cases the driveline shop is wrongfully accused of improper balancing.
1mm between the yoke and flange doesn't sound like much, but to a machinist/engine builder, it's a lot, especially on a part that will regularly see 3000+ RPM at freeway speeds, higher at track speeds. The bolts should not be trusted to properly align the yoke to the flange, that is the job of the hub.
In my not so humble opinion, if someone like JTR is willing to go through the trouble to set up these flanges to fit "properly" as a ready to bolt on item for a decent price, to me it only makes sense to step up and buy the properly fitting part. These are BMW's built with precision, not rototillers where close is good enough.
Just my $.02
Last edited by BRAAP; 08-09-2010 at 09:57 PM.
Nice find. Inland Empire had to send out a flange and have it machined for me. Fick'n DS cost me 500 bucks. That was the most expensive part on the whole project.
Dan "PbFut" Rose
Hi everyone, I'm doing a E46 420G 6 speed into my 94 Supra, has anyone an idea/direction as to what driveshaft options I have?
Supra has a 4 bolt connection, my driveshaft now is from an auto TT which has the splined input to the tail shaft.
What option are there besides a one piece aluminum DS?
I'm sure you all know of the BMW output shaft which is a 3 bolt. Fun times lol
I would appreciate any pointers
Happy Hollidays
AC
I just got the JTR flange. Super quick shipping so they have them on the shelf. You definitely don't want to make this one yourself because of the centering flange. They add an adapter ring to make it center perfectly. Without it you could have vibration. Warning though, you will have to clearance your subframe.
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