My DIS/INPA/SSS/CARSOFT/NAVCODER Interface.

[zekan23]

or better use locum real bettery/ignition detection mod. ?

[locum]

or better use locum real bettery/ignition detection mod. ?

Dude mprog is only for FT232RL chip

[zekan23]

but if i solder OBD2 pins 7 and 8, and do real ignition/battery modification with my FT232BL chip all should be ok ?

[locum]

but if i solder OBD2 pins 7 and 8, and do real ignition/battery modification with my FT232BL chip all should be ok ?

yes
you should read all the thread again

[imotski]

Hi guys, i have a problem! that solution doesent work! I have a VAG interface with RL chip and i can only read errors from engine, airbag and aircondition... when i go to instrument cluster the Error IFH-0006 command not accepted came!

then i found this manual
and i solder pin 7 and 8... instaled the new driver...
then i programed the chip so: http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/6008/image017n.jpg

but i again got the Error IFH-0006


then i try this: http://www.aijaa.com/v.php?i=7014573.jpg

but nothing changed! only the battery and ingnition detect was OFF

and i again got the error IFH-0006 when i try to go to instrument cluster

my car. e36 316i 1999

((!


have somebody the STOCK I / O Controls settings of the FT232RL chip?

[imotski]

what is the advantage of this modification. the Vagcom cable KKL 409.1 without any modification :S ????

[geargrinder]

Hi guys, i have a problem! that solution doesent work!

Do more searching. I believe for E36 the OBD VAG-COM interface has some issues and you don't get full functionality. I know I've read that USB-OBD are not ideal for that car and you may need a "true" serial cable but there's also something about how it talks to the K/L lines.

I think it might be common for the VAG cable to work for DME and a couple of other things but not the cluster but again talking outside my area of experience here as I'm not an E36 guy.

what is the advantage of this modification. the Vagcom cable KKL 409.1 without any modification :S ????

The advantage of this modification is fully spelled out in full detail several times in this thread and others. I hate when people don't read a whole thread or scan it and then go "aaaah screw it I'll just ask for somebody to explain it AGAIN cuz it's too much work to actually read what's here already".

[locum]

Hi guys, i have a problem!
that solution doesent work!
I have a VAG interface with RL chip and i can only read errors from engine, airbag and aircondition... when i go to instrument cluster the Error IFH-0006 command not accepted came!

then i found this manual
and i solder pin 7 and 8... instaled the new driver...
then i programed the chip so: http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/6008/image017n.jpg

but i again got the Error IFH-0006

then i try this: http://www.aijaa.com/v.php?i=7014573.jpg

but nothing changed! only the battery and ingnition detect was OFF

and i again got the error IFH-0006 when i try to go to instrument cluster

my car. e36 316i 1999

((!

have somebody the STOCK I / O Controls settings of the FT232RL chip?

Why don't you just READ the thread

1# Sure you got a problem coz you don't think and don't research, if you are looking for an easy solution just go to the dealer
2# This solution WORKS, you just need to ask some people
3# E36 Are NOT fully supported
4# Check your Diagnosis port under the bonnet, if you got pin 15

You will need an ADS interface

[imotski]

ok thanks mate

but i again dont know the advantage of this modification because i also without that only can connect to engine, aircondition and airbag. and again " dont be able to access to all modules from the car"

I dont see a difference on 3 e36! maybe on e46 or a other model?

and what is the final cofig? this one http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/6008/image017n.jpg

or this http://www.aijaa.com/v.php?i=7014573.jpg

thx

[locum]

BMW use two K Lines, if you just use one you don't see the rest o modules that's why obd2 pin 7 and pin 8 are together

[geargrinder]

but i again dont know the advantage of this modification because i also without that only can connect to engine, aircondition and airbag. and again " dont be able to access to all modules from the car"

Hey! Why don't you just keep saying that over and over and over again and ignoring what people tell you! That'll work real good I bet!

From the freakin ORIGINAL POST IN THIS THREAD....

....SNIP....
4# Open your vagcom and solder obd2 pins 7 and 8, which are the K lines, otherwise you will not be able to access to all modules from the car
....SNIP....
we need to invert RI # and DSR # signals to fool the detection of battery and ignition, in order to be able to encode.
....SNIP....
but if we want some REAL battery and ingnition detect, we must do this circuit

So there's the answers.
1. Part of it is to let you access more modules.
2. Part of it lets you use all the tools and features including coding and model detect.

But don't let this stop you - I'm sure your reply will be "I don't understand the purpose of this mod" for the 5th time...

[imotski]

ok thanks i understand it yet... but FACT is, that you dont see a difference between stock and moded interface when you use it on e36! only with newer series!

[Baaarb]

hi.
questions:

1) will the modded kkl cabel do all job as the d-can cabel - like coding etc?
2) witch one do i need for bmw e92 330d 2007/2008 ? kkl modded or d-can?

thx

[zekan23]

hi.
questions:

1) will the modded kkl cabel do all job as the d-can cabel - like coding etc?
2) witch one do i need for bmw e92 330d 2007/2008 ? kkl modded or d-can?

thx

1) no, it is just standard bmw obd cable for cars 1995 - 03/2007. work with INPA complex (INPA, NSC Expert etc), GT1/DIS complex (DIS, SSS Progman) and maybe with BMW scaner 1.3.6. Someone says that it covers all 2007 year.

After 03/2007
d-can fast magistral and PT-can (500 kb/s)
k-can slow magistral (100 kb/s)

Models that require D-CAN:
- E60, E61 after 3/2007
- E83 after 9/2006
- E81, E87 after 3/2007
- E90, E91, E92, E93 after 3/2007
- E70 (New X5)
- R56 (New Mini)
- And others...

2) d-can interface adapters should read both kkl and d-can, automatically switches between.

[zekan23]

And you do not need any coding with chip. Just do real battery/ignition modification with VAGCOM cable. Just buy any VAGCOM cable and do modification. If you cannot do it by yourself find who can handle with solder.

Here is a full version of INPA 5.0.2 (Ediabas 6.4.7) with NSC expert, NFS and WinKFP

1) http://depositfiles.com/files/8ttz2rp6w 811 MB
2) http://depositfiles.com/files/8vh9402fi 424 b

[zekan23]

It does not show all models in main menu. To open all models (E53, E46 etc) you need change

C:\EC-APPS\INPA\CFGDAT\INPA.ini

//************************************************** ********************
//*
//* Nacharbeitsauswahl INPA
//*
//* Datei INPA.INI
//*
//************************************************** ********************
//* Gall TI-430
//************************************************** ********************

[INFO]
VERSION = 5.01
DATUM = 28.03.2006
VARIANTE = ENGLISH.MET

[ENVIRON]
DRUCKER = WIN
PEM = JA
LANGUAGE = ENGLISCH

[SCRIPT]
EDITOR = WIN
SCRIPTSELECT = LIST
DEFINI =

[CONFIG]
TITEL = BMW Group Rectification programs UK
F2 = BMW_ALT
F2_KNOPF = Old
F2_Text = E31 / E34 / E36 / E38 / E39 / E52
F2_ARCHIV = SGBD_BMW

F3 = E46
F3_Text = E46 / 3er
F3_ARCHIV = SGBD_E46

F4 = E60
F4_Text = E60 (E63, E64) / 5er, 6er
F4_ARCHIV = SGBD_E60

F5 = E65
F5_Text = E65 (E66, E67) / 7er
F5_ARCHIV = SGBD_E65

F6 = E70
F6_Text = E70 (E71, E72) / X5
F6_ARCHIV = SGBD_E70

F7 = E83
F7_Text = E83 / X3
F7_ARCHIV = SGBD_E83

F8 = E85
F8_Text = E85 (E86) / Z4
F8_ARCHIV = SGBD_E85

F9 = Sonder
F9_KNOPF = Special
F9_TEXT = Special tests

F12 = R50
F12_Text = Mini R50 (R52, R53)
F12_ARCHIV = SGBD_R50

F13 = R56
F13_Text = Mini R56 (R55, R57)
F13_ARCHIV = SGBD_R56

F15 = RR1
F15_Text = Rolls Royce RR1 (RR2)
F15_ARCHIV = SGBD_RR1

F16 = E53
F16_Text = E53 / X5
F16_ARCHIV = SGBD_E53

F17 = E87
F17_Text = E87 (E81, E82, E88) / 1er
F17_ARCHIV = SGBD_E87

F18 = E90
F18_Text = E90 (E91, E92, E93) / 3er
F18_ARCHIV = SGBD_E90

[EXTRA]
SCRIPTS = *

[zekan23]

if you use china INPA/EDIABAS inferface with com ports and use usb->rs232(serial) converter in obd.ini you should not put hardware=usb !!!!
just hardware=obd

[OBD]
Port=Com1
Hardware=OBD
RETRY=ON
;Tracelevel=0xFFFFFFFF
;Tracelevel=0xFFFFFFFF
;Tracelevel=0xF0000000
;Tracelevel=0x0000FFFF
; Bit 0 = Funktionsaufruf
; Bit 1 = io Ergebnis
; Bit 2 = nio Ergebnis
; Bit 3 = Detailinfos
; Nibble 0 = readchar_wait
; Nibble 1 = main
; Nibble 2 = cmd
; Nibble 3 = obd
; Nibble 4 = send_and_receive_...
; Nibble 5 = read_telegram_...
; Nibble 6 = send_telegram
; Nibble 7 = SendData

[KevinMullins]

ok thanks i understand it yet... but FACT is, that you dont see a difference between stock and moded interface when you use it on e36! only with newer series!

You DO have to modify your interface in order for it to work....period.

The problem is there are some minor differences for some of the 1999-2000 range cars. (and I'm not talking about pin #15, use ADS and all that) People can tell you to read this thread all day long and it won't tell you everything. And some of it doesn't explain WHY it works for some and not others.
I have a 1999 E36 323is and a 2000 E39 528i, I can read all my modules from the OBD port on both cars. BUT....it's a tad different from most newer cars because the OBD in car pinouts are slightly different. Sure, you can do it through the 20 pin connector under the hood if you have an adapter, but you can mod your interface and jumper a couple pins under the hood and have full capability through the OBD port as well. (just nicer to sit in the seat and play) My interface cable is the cheapest of the cheap you can find with the FT232BM chip.

First thing you need to do is look at the OBD port IN THE CAR.



OBD standard is to have pin 1 as IGNITION ON, most of these do not have pin 1 wired, so doing the mod and connecting anything to pin 1 of the interface is pointless. It will not sense the ignition since there is nothing there. Just jumper it over to pin 16 so that it "thinks" you turned on the ignition. You will still have to physically turn on the ignition to wake all the modules up anyways.
The "transistor mod" is really nothing more than a "switch" to the FTDI chip to say "hey, I see power here". But you don't want to pump a full 12v at high current to it.....so do the mod. This is really just so the software sees that it is "on", otherwise you won't get very far. Keep in mind though, run the base of the transistor with it's resistor over to pin 16. Not a true ignition sense, but it works to fool the interface and software.

(that is coated wire by the way, so it won't short out)

And they also do not have pin 8 wired, which is one of the reasons to soldering 7 & 8 together inside the interface. The interface expects data on pin 8....once again a pin that is not there....so tie it over to pin 7 which you actually have in the car.
Doing the mod will only get you PARTIALLY working. (ie reading only some modules)
Since the OBD port in the car only has one data line you will need to jumper the 20 pin connector under the hood in order to access the second data line. This is just a quick temporary setup so that you can use the OBD port for more modules.


This works fine on both my cars, including the 1999 E36 which has pin 15. I still plan to look into the ADS interface stuff to see if there are any actual benefits on THIS particular car though.
I do have a 20 pin harness, so I've played with both.

I can add some details to this if anyone is interested..... the kids keep distracting me at the moment. But I have a bunch more pics and details of how these particular cars are wired that I had to figure out by metering everything.

One other thing I did want to note though...... as you can see my transistor is "upside down". I noticed a bit of confusion on this in this thread somewhere. Any small NPN can be used for this mod, but I would highly recommend you looking up the datasheet on the exact one you plan to use to know what the pinout is. (base, collector, emitter) TO-92 is a package (shape) designation, it has nothing to do with whether the pins are EBC or BCE, etc, etc. So if you lay a transistor flat side down on a table, one transistor could be pinned one way and another pinned totally opposite.
I looked up a few for ya that I had seen mentioned so far and a couple other common ones.

This is looking at the transistor flat side down, legs pointing towards you:
NTE123AP CBE (which is what I used)
2N3904 CBE
BC546 EBC
BC547 EBC
PN2222A CBE

Anyway...... I'm new to BMW's, but I've dabbled a bit into everything. Hope to share something useful, since this is where I started my interface adventure.

[MSWPOWER]

You DO have to modify your interface in order for it to work....period.

The problem is there are some minor differences for some of the 1999-2000 range cars. (and I'm not talking about pin #15, use ADS and all that) People can tell you to read this thread all day long and it won't tell you everything. And some of it doesn't explain WHY it works for some and not others.
I have a 1999 E36 323is and a 2000 E39 528i, I can read all my modules from the OBD port on both cars. BUT....it's a tad different from most newer cars because the OBD in car pinouts are slightly different. Sure, you can do it through the 20 pin connector under the hood if you have an adapter, but you can mod your interface and jumper a couple pins under the hood and have full capability through the OBD port as well. (just nicer to sit in the seat and play) My interface cable is the cheapest of the cheap you can find with the FT232BM chip.

First thing you need to do is look at the OBD port IN THE CAR.



OBD standard is to have pin 1 as IGNITION ON, most of these do not have pin 1 wired, so doing the mod and connecting anything to pin 1 of the interface is pointless. It will not sense the ignition since there is nothing there. Just jumper it over to pin 16 so that it "thinks" you turned on the ignition. You will still have to physically turn on the ignition to wake all the modules up anyways.
The "transistor mod" is really nothing more than a "switch" to the FTDI chip to say "hey, I see power here". But you don't want to pump a full 12v at high current to it.....so do the mod. This is really just so the software sees that it is "on", otherwise you won't get very far. Keep in mind though, run the base of the transistor with it's resistor over to pin 16. Not a true ignition sense, but it works to fool the interface and software.

(that is coated wire by the way, so it won't short out)

And they also do not have pin 8 wired, which is one of the reasons to soldering 7 & 8 together inside the interface. The interface expects data on pin 8....once again a pin that is not there....so tie it over to pin 7 which you actually have in the car.
Doing the mod will only get you PARTIALLY working. (ie reading only some modules)
Since the OBD port in the car only has one data line you will need to jumper the 20 pin connector under the hood in order to access the second data line. This is just a quick temporary setup so that you can use the OBD port for more modules.


This works fine on both my cars, including the 1999 E36 which has pin 15. I still plan to look into the ADS interface stuff to see if there are any actual benefits on THIS particular car though.
I do have a 20 pin harness, so I've played with both.

I can add some details to this if anyone is interested..... the kids keep distracting me at the moment. But I have a bunch more pics and details of how these particular cars are wired that I had to figure out by metering everything.

One other thing I did want to note though...... as you can see my transistor is "upside down". I noticed a bit of confusion on this in this thread somewhere. Any small NPN can be used for this mod, but I would highly recommend you looking up the datasheet on the exact one you plan to use to know what the pinout is. (base, collector, emitter) TO-92 is a package (shape) designation, it has nothing to do with whether the pins are EBC or BCE, etc, etc. So if you lay a transistor flat side down on a table, one transistor could be pinned one way and another pinned totally opposite.
I looked up a few for ya that I had seen mentioned so far and a couple other common ones.
This is looking at the transistor flat side down, legs pointing towards you:
NTE123AP CBE (which is what I used)
2N3904 CBE
BC546 ECB
BC547 ECB
PN2222A CBE

Anyway...... I'm new to BMW's, but I've dabbled a bit into everything. Hope to share something useful, since this is where I started my interface adventure.

man, you're my hero!
thank you so much for explaining this; everyone said read and all that BS your post brought it all togeather. it have the NTE Transistor and didn't even think of checking the OBD port in my E38 and thanks for the jumper tip for under the Bonnet. pm me dude, we have so much to discuss..
i've been killing myself trying to get SSS v32 to recognize my cable and was wondering y i could only see Battery and not ignition.

[vince59]

man, you're my hero!
thank you so much for explaining this; everyone said read and all that BS your post brought it all togeather. it have the NTE Transistor and didn't even think of checking the OBD port in my E38 and thanks for the jumper tip for under the Bonnet. pm me dude, we have so much to discuss..
i've been killing myself trying to get SSS v32 to recognize my cable and was wondering y i could only see Battery and not ignition.

dear friend....if you read and do not understand it is your limit and not other members....

[Drewfus2101]

Gahhh.... I just ruined the 2nd cable trying to do the ignition detection circuit.

Anyone want to make one for me?

[geargrinder]

Gahhh.... I just ruined the 2nd cable trying to do the ignition detection circuit.

Anyone want to make one for me?

I'd be happy to help out if you ship cable to me and cover return ship of course plus maybe $5 bucks for the parts/supplies/the cheap beer I"ll drink while I knock it out. Only hitch is I'm traveling for next 3 weeks or so, so probably 4 weeks all said and done before I'd get it back to you. PM me if you can't find something faster/closer/easier.

BTW what does "ruined" mean? Are you sure it's not salvageable? I am guessing if you mean screwed up some of the surface mount soldering but didn't lose the components I maybe can rework that back to normal. If you screwed a bunch of traces up maybe that can be reworked too or maybe not worth the hassles. Pics would be helpful to diagnose if really 'ruined'.

(that is coated wire by the way, so it won't short out)

Nice tidy work on the soldering Kev, I'd just glob some hot glue on those floating leads to keep them from shorting - in my post from ages ago you''ll see I also slipped heatshrink over the NPN leads, although copious hotglue would do the job there too.

This is interesting. I have no 20-pin car and new to the BMW diag thing too so interesting to see this. Seems like a nice workaround to the adapter, now you can just use OBD in the car like the later models right? I imagine someone could get a 20-pin male connector and even fabricate some jumper plugs if you wanted a slicker solution although this looks to work fine...

--- Oh and I HATE Automerge ---- Those 2 replies to Kev / Drew were supposed to be separate. Stupid Automerge.

[vince59]

Gahhh.... I just ruined the 2nd cable trying to do the ignition detection circuit.

Anyone want to make one for me?

Come on I can't believe that!!!!
some rules:
- Use a small tip solder with sharp point not plumber version low power max 16W;
- plenty of light;
- soldering paste to make soldering easy;
- good soldering alloy;
- very thin cable;

I can do it for free but shipping to italy would cost a lot!!!

[Drewfus2101]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm not new to soldering, but WOW those 'R' chips are TINY and soldering iron tip isn't.

On both cables, I ended up soldering pins 5 though 7 (or so) together. On the first one, when trying to chip the solder off (since I couldn't get the solder braid to work) I have managed to get the chip loose from the board.

On the second cable, I just stopped with the 3 pins connected.

I really don't know how you guys do it. My eyes arn't bad, but I can barely see what I'm doing, must less keep my hands steady enough for work this small.

[geargrinder]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm not new to soldering, but WOW those 'R' chips are TINY and soldering iron tip isn't.

On both cables, I ended up soldering pins 5 though 7 (or so) together. On the first one, when trying to chip the solder off (since I couldn't get the solder braid to work) I have managed to get the chip loose from the board.

On the second cable, I just stopped with the 3 pins connected.

I really don't know how you guys do it. My eyes arn't bad, but I can barely see what I'm doing, must less keep my hands steady enough for work this small.

Drew - from what you describe here and in the PM you sent, should be no prob to ressurect that cable with the tools I have at hand - although have to see to really be sure, I'm pretty confident as long as you haven't lost any components or burned them up from overheating or torn up any traces.

In addition to what vince (mmmmmm booooooobzzzzz.... ) said above, what helps me do this kind of stuff are...

• practice
• various kinds of magnifying lamp and/or glasses
• a variety of good work clamps (I have 2 Panavices plus an old skool soldering work holder and then a PCB hot-air rework holder thingy) that hold the piece in the right spot and hopefully help you have a way to brace your hand to keep it steady unless you have magic steady hands
• more practice
• OK and I confess - and the ultimate DEFCON 1 secret weapons: vacuum pump desoldering rework tool and hot air rework station, in addition to a basic half-decent temp controlled soldering iron

I def did some "SMD" (surface mount device) work w/ plain irons before I got more gear but dayum once you have some solder paste and the hot air rig it gets WAY easier not to F things up!!!! Sure I could fix your prob by hand w/ an iron and braid or an old school solder-sucker but screw that fussy sh1t... For instance where you bridged a bunch of pins, I can hot air heat that stuff up then just suck all the excess solder back off with the vacuum and then touch it up later w/ solder paste if it even needs it (might not). It's probably a couple minute fix.

Here's a shot of my 2 electronic benches... a bit older pics, there's more gear now, for instance the hot air stuff isn't in these pics... yes I have a gear problem... there's also another a closet full of shit, a floor full of hifi "projects" waiting to be fixed and that doesn't count the tube guitar amps... Crap I got TOO MANY HOBBIES....