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Thread: E36 M3 Sedan + LS1/T56 + Samberg Kit

  1. #126
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    USA
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    3,241
    My Cars
    96 328is 6.0L
    Quote Originally Posted by garretvs View Post
    Dorman fuel line fittings are OEM, cost less and don't come off without a removal tool
    and a lot of them come with built-in removal tool, which is awesome!
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  2. #127
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
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    1,762
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    04 Allroad, F20c Lotus 7
    Quote Originally Posted by garretvs View Post
    Dorman fuel line fittings are OEM, cost less and don't come off without a removal tool
    does dorman make one that goes to AN? I never found one that did.

  3. #128
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
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    04 Allroad, F20c Lotus 7
    Today's project was to finalize the cooling system. I had the cooling bottle hung and looped by the ls1 water pump to be functional but there was no heat in the car and it wasn't properly situated in it's stock locale.

    I started by getting the water bottle mounted and figuring out how to adjust that so the stockish location of stuff could be maintained.

    I ended up using the stock pipe (or part of it) and drilled a hole out of the radiator shield to run the pipe the other direction instead of across the front of the rad as it does in it's stock installation. I then tied it in by running a T down by the drier.



    without question the hardest part was installing the 3 hoses on the firewall - if you're smart you'll read this and INSTALL THEM BEFORE YOU PUT THE MOTOR IN. my god, such a PITA part of the engine bay.

    I ordered 2 gates 28477's - these are 24" 3/4 heater hose with a 90' on the end and a few more inches of hose and a 28470 - which is the same but a 5/8" for the middle connection. If I were to do it again with the way I installed the heater valve up against the passenger fender wall I would get the gates 36" or 48" 3/4" hoses - yes they are more but they wouldnt' have required the coupling in plain site that I had to use. I joined the 5/8" line back under teh PCM pocket and that wasn't an issue becuase I just ran a longer line from the pump (I hope I ran that correctly - 5/8" to 5/8" and 3/4 to 3/4" - it certainly came out pretty clean.
    heater hose routing by the overflow bottle


    heater hose routing by the moved heater valve




    I then pulled my broken temp sender by very carefully dremelling with a drill bit (it just barely fit under there) and then using an easy out, phew, not too painful. the new one I installed VERY slowly and it was where I felt it should be tightness wise before engaging the washer but it's not leaking - I believe the ls1 heads are tapered slightly unlike the bmw coolant sensor holes. - there is not back up or other piece that it's hitting in the head, it's just a tight fit.

    I also had cleaned up some of the wiring previously and started to tie that down - got the PCM front on - still need to button up the rest of the wiring but I'm sorting the obd2 sensor stuff out for the fuel tank press and what not as well as the AC.

    front end looks better with more of it on there


    I also measured up and wrote up instructions for the local specialty hose shop to get my AC line made up. I'll get pictures of that at a later time.

  4. #129
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    USA
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    My Cars
    96 328is 6.0L
    Nice progress...

    The only thing is heat + pressure = hose expension. Those zip ties might not be a good idea.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  5. #130
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Hong Kong SAR China
    Posts
    373
    My Cars
    92 318I, 92 325IS, 97 528I
    Subscribed...
    Tune the exotics by profession but Bimmas are what I drive!

  6. #131
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Portland, Oregon
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    04 Allroad, F20c Lotus 7
    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Nice progress...

    The only thing is heat + pressure = hose expension. Those zip ties might not be a good idea.
    yeah, I plan on watching them for a little while to see how the do - vorschlag had zip ties in their pictures and i'm sure their shop car has seen higher temps underhood than mine has so far. I purposely didn't put them on as tight as possible, just enough to sort of keep the hose in the general vicinity of where I wanted it.

  7. #132
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Naperville, IL
    Posts
    2,462
    My Cars
    1998 540i
    I had my heater lines zip tied together at several points and had no problems.
    Rob
    Prior projects:
    1998 540i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy Power
    - pictures and details
    1992 325i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
    1995 M3 with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details




  8. #133
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    tha interwebz!
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    54
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    Audi A6
    maybe I missed it...did anything ever come of the fitment issues with the Samberg kit?

  9. #134
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio
    Posts
    216
    My Cars
    1997 M3 Coupe
    any link to purschase the samberg kit? I can;t find a webpage anywhere?

  10. #135
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Sandy OR
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    '97 M3 sdn, '00 528 sprt
    Yeup, first page of this thread.
    Last edited by BRAAP; 09-17-2010 at 01:28 PM.

    '97 Sedan, Cosmos Meconium, Click ME for the build thread.

  11. #136
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Portland, Oregon
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    04 Allroad, F20c Lotus 7
    Quote Originally Posted by silver97z View Post
    maybe I missed it...did anything ever come of the fitment issues with the Samberg kit?
    I understand MAS280 is working with Justin on his kit to get it installed. other than my finagling with the 3" driveshaft and heavy throttle tunnel rub I haven't had any other issue.

    I tried a few places around town to have my AC lines made up for the car and all the favorite places in town don't weld aluminum and thus couldn't hook me up with affordable hose setup

    took it to the only game I could find in town that welds aluminum all day and after hearing how much they would charge to get it all said and done with a warranty decided to pay the fairly expensive price :\ I don't want to put off AC for 6 months while I try and figure out a substantially cheaper way to deal with it and they'll have it back to me before the end of the week.

    SO - anyone that can get AC lines made for this swap afford-ably - you have a great place to make money and help the community (Mike, i'm looking at you, Sally )

    I've also collected all of the pieces I need for my rear end rebuild - RTABs, subframe mounts, diff mounts, reinforcement pieces - everything EXCEPT for the 3.91 lsd diff that I just can't find

  12. #137
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    PA
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    Too many to list...
    Go to www.docsblocks.com and you can make your own AC lines with just a torch. If you need to crimp anything, you can get that done locally.

    Doug


    '97 M3/4

  13. #138
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Portland, Oregon
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    04 Allroad, F20c Lotus 7
    I considered the single off fab up from their parts. I was hoping to just be able to have a shop basically connect my 3 hoses up for the compressor tie in but nobody seems to be able to do that. the doc blocks setup is certainly an option to consider but would probably take ordering a few extra parts to make sure everything fit well and then getting it all pieced in and shaped properly. would probably amount to ~200 in parts to get it right - once somebody does it once and shares the info it will be easier but I didn't want to be the test mule. I'm certainly paying more for someone else to fab up my lines but it's something i'd like to not end up spending a lot of time myself on and when it's something I don't have a lot of experience on I'll like being able to lean on them next year if it doesn't work. I'm getting responsible in my old age or something.

  14. #139
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Central Valley, CA
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    2,905
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    2011 328xi, E36 LS1
    I'm going to embark on the AC lines project soon I believe. I may well use the Docsblocks pieces. If I do, I'll post details on my thread.


  15. #140
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    PM the guys who did the e30 with the ls1 (garret or whatever his screen name is)... I believe they used docsblocks and may be able to provide some input.

    Doug


    '97 M3/4

  16. #141
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Portland, Oregon
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    04 Allroad, F20c Lotus 7
    modified AC line pics

    compressor to evap line

    gm pressure line fitted

    bottom shot of the condenser -> compressor line

  17. #142
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Memphis, TN
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    95 M3, 01 330ci

  18. #143
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio
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    216
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    1997 M3 Coupe
    Swaps looking good mate. Does anyone know if this will work on the ls7? or ls3. I'm not sure how much the size changed with those engines vs the ls1, ls6.

  19. #144
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    95 M3, 01 330ci

  20. #145
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Banks, Oregon
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    2002 E46 M3 Convertible
    I read all the way up to the driving video, and then noticed the familiar scenery. Only then did I actually look at the signature to see that you're from Portland! I work in Portland, and live about 30 miles west of town. You're swap looks great! Isn't the engine compartment on your M3 very similar to my Z3? This could be a really fun winter project!

  21. #146
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    Where did you get the AC lines done at?

    Doug


    '97 M3/4

  22. #147
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Portland, Oregon
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    04 Allroad, F20c Lotus 7
    Quote Originally Posted by Chevdog1 View Post
    I read all the way up to the driving video, and then noticed the familiar scenery. Only then did I actually look at the signature to see that you're from Portland! I work in Portland, and live about 30 miles west of town. You're swap looks great! Isn't the engine compartment on your M3 very similar to my Z3? This could be a really fun winter project!
    basically identical engine bay (in the same sense that the coupe and the sedan are slightly different) - your driveshaft is a different length and I understand the shifter is in a different spot but those are easy to overcome. it would be a great winter project and there are a surprising number of us in the pdx area doing this swap

    Quote Originally Posted by douglee25 View Post
    Where did you get the AC lines done at?

    Doug
    shop called Mac's Radiator they have a few locations around the portland metro area - it was difficult to find a place that could weld aluminum.
    Last edited by Tongboy; 10-02-2010 at 02:41 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  23. #148
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    Jun 2005
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    New England
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    F90 M5; E36 M3 Turbo
    sheet metal fabricators will also often weld aluminum

    craigslist services may include someone offering to weld aluminum

  24. #149
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    Nov 2008
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    Houston, TX
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    2003 Honda S2000
    Quick question...forgive me if I dont read through all 6 pages, but what are we talking about here as far as $$$ when all is said and done? Looks like an expensive build with lots of new parts.

    What's a typical cost on a build like this with as much stock stuff as possible and no A/C or anything like that?

  25. #150
    Join Date
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    04 Allroad, F20c Lotus 7
    Quote Originally Posted by Broox View Post
    Quick question...forgive me if I dont read through all 6 pages, but what are we talking about here as far as $$$ when all is said and done? Looks like an expensive build with lots of new parts.

    What's a typical cost on a build like this with as much stock stuff as possible and no A/C or anything like that?
    I don't remember if I covered it here or on another forum - it was just about smack dab on 5k with engine and mounts and basically everything minus AC after I sold my motor to offset the cost.

    I bought new parts where needed but limited the scope of the project so I didn't buy every new piece for the car at once.

    for example I left the rear end alone and now i'm going back and replacing all the pieces back there - i'll do the same with the front end bushings and all that too at a separate time. it's one of the big reasons I got up and running so quickly - keep the projects small and tightly scoped to get them done.

    finally stopped slacking off and dropped the rear subframe. pretty interesting pieces and stuff back there.

    the rotors took some solid hammer hits because they were crusted on to the hubs but all in all nothing terribly scary back there, no torn boots or entirely destroed bushings so far - plenty of worn stuff but nothing falling apart. so that's nice




    lifetime fluid, yeah, sure BMW


    one of the rtabs, bushing is still there and this side is in better condition than the other side (really bad tire wear)


    rtab pockets - both haven't had any pullout so that's good. i'll be welding the reinforcements in place to solidify them

    I did confirm I do have the reinfocement plats around all 4 subframe mounts and they are in good shape.

    tomorrow i'm going to pull the subframe apart, pressure wash everything and get to pressing stuff in and out and welding. I've read a few threads about people gusseting a few places that I think i'm going to get in on - the rear diff mounts look like they could use some love on top of the subframe mounts i'm already intending on strengthening and the rtab pockets as well as new bushings all the way around.

    I suspect i'm going to take sigma's note and potentially replace the balljoints but i'll see how bad they are when I actually get them out - if they need to be replaced now or if I can do it later on on the car without hating my life.
    Last edited by Tongboy; 10-05-2010 at 01:22 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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