summit racing sells o2 harness extenders, last time i checked they were out of stock tho
Hmm, summit's been getting a lot of small orders here and there from me, haha.
I heard it wasn't good to use extensions, because it could cause incorrect readings, or something to that affect. However, I don't see any other way around it.
Last edited by Don Nguyen; 03-22-2011 at 11:59 AM.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
extensions can cause issues - the extra connectors and wire length are going to add minor extra amounts of wire resistants - the connectors more than anything.
I solved the problem by running longer o2 sensors out of different cars - there are tons of them in the junkyards and they are actually cheaper to buy NEW than the f-body & vette ones. I don't know why the ls1 community hasn't caught on to that yet...
I think most swappers don't bother to hook up the emissions equipment.
Did you retain your onboard computer? If so which features are still working?
I extended wires lots of times on O2 and never had or heard of problems. It is the same as saying that by putting the BMW temp sensor in pass side head with different length wires then stock, would alter the temperature reading from that sensor.
I think that you need to put a lot of wire in order to cause the skewed results.
In my case OBC does not do MPG, Range and Code function anymore. It shows 99 for MPG.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
you're correct bimerok - the amount of resistance you ad by adding a few feet of wire is completely insignificant - you introduce more unexpected noise to the cars electronics driving by power lines - as long as you can get your o2 sensors up to temp they'll work without a problem with a long cord on them.
I did retain my OBC - I didn't have the 18 button - only the 12 button or whatever the middle one is - all my features still work.
Fuel economy gauge is a good one - I forgot about that one - mine still just sweeps between full terrible and full good if i'm moving or not - there is a company that makes a converter box to get the fuel consumption gauge to work again - if that was working the range on the OBC would probably work again - I'm surprised the code function doesn't work anymore - my understanding of that was that it went to the EWS module and thus if you retained the EWS you could retain the code function - I don't know though as I don't have an 18 button yet...
edit: http://www.seattlecircuit.com/fuel_signal.htm for those interested - that's the unit - kind of expensive for what it does as far as usefulness...
further adding some complication to the system - the fuel consumption gauge is a measurement off the injector duty cycle off of a single injector - the the injector sizes from the stock s52 & the ls1 are uh, identical... they are rated different because they run at different pressures but I'm guessing at cruise they'd be pretty close to each other as far as injector pulse width - which is what the instantaneous MPG gauge needs. I'm going to pick through the circuits to see if I can get it working and see how far off it is.
Last edited by Tongboy; 03-22-2011 at 06:24 PM.
I have the 18 button one, So I am going to have to figure it out. If I lose too many features I might rip it out completely.
Some feedback from feeding the cluster instantaneous fuel mileage info.
I ran a splice on GM blue C1 pin 36 (blk) which is the injector #1 controller wire to x20 pin 24 - which was the BMW injector pulse signal - there are 2 options - one is an input and hte other is an output on the cluster - this goes to pin X16 (a) 21 in the cluster
The mileage is surprisingly in the realm of believable - it's mostly just cool to see the worthless gauge work slightly like it's intended to instead of just swing all the way back and forth.
Somebody else got the gauge working by connecting it to a fuel injector or something...its in a thread in this forum, with a response by the seatle circuit guy.... it was one of the earlier swaps if I'm not mistaken....probably thaniel.
Ahh, found it!..... http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1376764
Last edited by hefftone; 03-23-2011 at 09:08 PM.
^thats exactly what I did, I just said it the complicate way
So it finally happened - I cleaned up my wiring, it wasn't as painful as I thought it was going to be and it was a HUGE improvement
how I started
After pulling all the wires through the center section it was still a huge jumble
fuse box side cleaned up - all the excess wires trimmed back and the ac reversal relay installed cleanly - I did not use the main system relay for my install but rather the unloader relay that's under the interior - basically not having to change anything and just using the green wire off the x20 for run power
the center section getting a bit better
ready to be tucked back into the package
all cleaned up
I ended up using a 4 panel fuse box and put that into the ECM compartment for the ignition & fuse feed lines - the 12v run wires, all the pinks & the ECM wiring - it was hte cheapo lt1swap.com one that was talked about - it worked great.
everything put back in it's place
drivers side all taped back up
shot of the whole bay
I still need to pick up some more corrugated wire covers to cover a few small wires up here and there but it sure is an improvement. And on the plus side everything still works
Last edited by Tongboy; 03-26-2011 at 02:41 AM.
Looks great
Why not skip the corrigated wire covering and go for some cleaner looking mesh loom that shrinks around your wiring and doesn't get brittle?
McMaster Carr carries it and is pretty darn cheap.
The http://www.seattlecircuit.com/ guy has been making great headway with his M54 swapped e30 running it off of an S50 ECU and wiring harness.
you have a part# on that mcmaster part? I'd love to get something similar to what the factory intended, I guess I could just get some longer pieces of bigger heat shrink and go that way... though getting it around the connectors would be a nightmare
ummm...... hang on one second...
http://www.mcmaster.com/#sleeving/=bmr5he
This is the stuff I've used on my Firebird and Jeep. I'm about to order it for my harness once I re-pin a few connections. It works very well and is great about not wearing or chafing. It is the same stuff that comes in the Painless kits for about 1/3rd of the cost.
What is the actual part number? I'm still not finding a heat shrink spiral tubing.
Doug
'97 M3/4
I'm not using heat shrink for anything... except for my splices.
1459T21 25' of 1/8
1459T22 25' of 1/4"
1459T13 3' of 1/2" I would order 6'.
This was more then enough to do all of the wiring, but I keep this stuff on hand for wiring projects because it's so darn useful.
25' - holy crap- I bought a couple of 4' pieces from frys and that has been more than enough
https://www.wirecare.com/index.asp has some really cool stuff, I'm glad I was able to use the factory mid-piece and passenger side, it doesn't leave me having to deal with too much wiring to clean up.
Yes 25' is excessive.
I like that site!!!
I too am trying to use as much of the factory harness as possible for a clean install.
Anyone that says the 18 button retrofit is hard is crazy.
it's SIX WIRES, okay, fine, technically 8.
use a small screwdriver to pull two out of the existing plug on the 11 button and move them to the new connector on the 18 button and bam - you have a working 11 button in an 18 button body - run 4 wires to the cluster wires - one is a new one and you have everything except for the cycle switch on the stalk and the code function. run the wire behind the glovebox and you have code and the tie in to the stalk is the last wire.
all in all:
swap two wires
add a new wire to the cluster (fuel level) and connect
tap 3 cluster wires
tie to stalk switch
tie to zke body module
if you skip the stalk & the zke like I have so far it's a 30 minute job.
So far everything works - the range value appears to be about double but that can be adjusted via hidden functions - everything else seems fairly close - I of course haven't teste the code function yet as I haven't wired it up to see if it works or not - everything else does work with the swap...
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Now i'm really reaching for things left to hook up...
did you hook up the fuel consumption wire to an injector negative side? I bet that would get your range & MPG display working
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