Help Purchasing my own tools for various maintenance/repairs

[d3v0]

After my inspection, the indy BMW shop found quite a few things that need fixed on the car. I recently moved to Pittsburgh and all of the tools I used to use are 2 hours away, and furthermore - dont belong to me. I am coming from the subaru world so I am sort of unfamiliar with BMW DIY, but I am adept at reading guides and following good directions.

I am going to be doing the following work in the next couple of weeks (also keep in mind, I have no garage):

Valve cover gasket
Serpentine and AC belt
Rear pads+rotors
Water pump (metal impeller)
PS pump
Oil change
Cabin filter replacement
BMW auxiliary audio input

Looking at some DIY's, I see that I need the following tools:

VCG DIY Link:
Metric Socket Set With Sparkplug Socket (8mm and 10mm sockets)
Microtorque Wrench (Capable of going from 5-25 ft-lbs is a good)
Flathead Screwdriver
T30 TORX Socket
High Temperature RTV Sealant

Belts DIY
Screwdriver
T25 and T50 Torx Socket
Various sized ratchets - will already have
5/8 ratchet w/extension
(Fan Removal Tools?)

Rear pads+rotors
Tool recommendation + DIY guide needed!

Water pump DIY (will do when doing belts)
(my expansion tank is new, so I will only be doing the waterpump with this DIY)
Set Of Low Profile Ramps (to drain the block)
Flexible Head Ratchet (This will help to loosen the engine block drain bolt)
3 Feet Of Flexible Hose 1.5" Diameter Or Greater (drain coolant away)
Various Sockets, Extensions, and Wrenches - please be more specific bimmerforums!
Rubber Mallet
Large Bucket (At least 2 gallons capacity)
Funnel

PS Pump (Luk LF30) DIY
Help me build a tools list!

Oil Change DIY
17mm and 36mm Sockets
Microtorque Wrench (Capable of going from 5-25 ft-lbs is a good)
Oil Drain Pan (Make sure it can hold 7+ quarts)

Cabin Filter DIY
no tools needed?

Aux Audio input
Drill + 2mm, 10mm and 1/8" drill bits


Okay, so you DIY'ers with BMW experience can chime in here and tell me things like:

"That guide sucks, here use this one"
or
"Dont use x tool, try this one"
or
"you should do x instead of that for x project"

Basically try and fill me in on parts I listed that I will need, as well as whether or not I should seriously consider just taking it to the overpriced mechanic. (They want $1350 to do the VCG, PS pump, rear brake rotors, belts, and right front wheel bearing).

I am going to be taking it to them to do the RF wheel bearing, as I am certain that is not something I can do myself.

[danewilson77]

Does that $1350 include the parts?

[d3v0]

Does that $1350 include the parts?

Ill itemize it:

At the shop (which offers a 12 month/12k mile warranty on their parts + labor)
Valve Cover Gasket: $78.41 + $97.50 labor
RF Wheel Bearing: $87.22 + $130 labor
serpentine and A/C belts: $46.46+$21.40 + $65 labor
Rear brake rotors: $270.66 + $97.50 labor
PS Pump: $315.13 + $25 fluid + $162.50 labor

Total parts: $844
Total Labor 8.5hrs - $552.50

~$1400

If I buy all of my own parts (Pelican parts):
Valve Cover Gasket + 15 new nut seals: $35.50
6 NGK Spark plugs: $69
RF Wheel Bearing: (will do at shop) $87.22 + $130 labor
serp/ac belts: $18 + $9
Rear rotors: $112.50
PS pump: $375 (LF-30)
Water pump w/ metal impeller: $56

Total Parts: $762
Total Labor: $130 + cost of my tools/time

$892 + Cost of tools/time

Basically for $100 less than I'd pay for parts at the shop, I get 6 new spark plugs, a better PS pump and a new water pump (current has plastic impeller).

After saving $400 on labor by only having the shop do the wheel bearing, I have ~$400 to spend on my own tools, which I get to keep.

I could save an additional $180 by not buying the plugs and water pump, and also buying the PS pump from the shop, so an apples to apples comparison would look like:

Cost at shop: $1396.50
Cost DIY: $577.35 (parts) + $130 (labor) + cost of tools

Would leave me $689.15 to buy my own tools to do this myself.

[Littleredti]

Sear's always has those kits that cover pretty much everything you would need. I was there a few days ago, and I saw a like 200 piece set on sale for $150. Just get all the metric things you can and you can pretty much do all the repairs you'll need to.

I can't think of any crazy tools you'd need for any of that work either.

[d3v0]

definitely thinking of stopping at sears first haha

[G. P. Burdell]

VCG DIY Link:
Metric Socket Set With Sparkplug Socket (8mm and 10mm sockets)
Microtorque Wrench (Capable of going from 5-25 ft-lbs is a good)
Flathead Screwdriver
T30 TORX Socket
High Temperature RTV Sealant

Don't forget a putty knife or similar flat object with which to pry the valve cover off of the head.

Consider also refurbishing the VANOS seals while you do the valve cover gasket. You can either buy the seals kit from Beisan Systems or a pre-assembled VANOS unit from Dr. VANOS. Read the very detailed how-to on the Beisan Systems Web site and assemble your tool list from there.

Belts DIY
Screwdriver
T25 and T50 Torx Socket
Various sized ratchets - will already have
5/8 ratchet w/extension
(Fan Removal Tools?)

Check the kind of Torx bit you'll need to release tension on the A/C belt tensioner. On my car, I needed a colossal Torx bit (T60, maybe) to fit the socket that was cast into the tensioner arm. Some tensioner arms have a 16mm hex head cast into them instead.

Water pump DIY (will do when doing belts)
(my expansion tank is new, so I will only be doing the waterpump with this DIY)
Set Of Low Profile Ramps (to drain the block)
Flexible Head Ratchet (This will help to loosen the engine block drain bolt)
3 Feet Of Flexible Hose 1.5" Diameter Or Greater (drain coolant away)
Various Sockets, Extensions, and Wrenches - please be more specific bimmerforums!
Rubber Mallet
Large Bucket (At least 2 gallons capacity)
Funnel

You'll need two M6 threaded bolts, each about an inch long, to push the water pump out of the block. A standard set of metric sockets and the tools you'll need to remove the belts should suffice. I think I used a ratchet with a 9" extension, a 6" extension, and a 13mm socket on a universal joint to reach the block drain plug comfortably.

The torque specs for the water pump nuts and the water pump pulley bolts are very small. A 5 to 25 ft-lbs torque wrench isn't going to be terribly accurate at these low torque settings, so if you can buy or borrow a good inch-pounds wrench, it would be preferable. The water pump pulley is made of plastic and can easily crack if you overtorque the bolts. The pulley fuses to the pump over time, so you may even want to consider getting a brand new pulley just in case the old one chips or cracks while you remove it. Mine did. Apply a thin coating of anti-seize to the pulley where it meets the water pump flange to make future removal easier.

PS Pump (Luk LF30) DIY
[B]Help me build a tools list!

--Metric socket set (need 13mm, 19mm, 22mm, maybe others)
--All the tools you'll use to remove the fan and belts
--Flex driver for new hose clamps
--Flare nut wrench for pressure hose connection at pump (you'll use the 17mm, but just get a set for future brake work)
--Torque wrench for banjo bolts at steering rack (35 Nm & 40 Nm)
--Inch-pounds torque wrench for power steering pump pulley
--New plastic pulley - see my notes for the water pump
--Power steering hose disconnect tool - see below

Consider replacing all of the power steering hoses and the reservoir while you're in there. The hoses break down and start to leak over time, and the reservoir contains a built-in screen that isn't replaceable. By replacing everything, you won't have to waste time cutting off those single-use hose clamps at the reservoir and at the pump - you can just cut the hose at the connection to the pump. (Make absolutely certain you have the right replacement hoses before cutting anything!)

Follow this excellent DIY to learn more about how to replace the hoses. You'll need a special tool made by Assenmacher Specialty Tools in order to detach the hoses from the cooling coil.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=414455

Cabin Filter DIY
no tools needed?

Correct.

If you haven't already done so, do yourself a favor and buy a Bentley repair manual. For the amount of work you're doing, it will be very helpful.

[jahabrewer]

You didn't mention it, but you'll probably (at least, should) change out your rear diff fluid at some point. This job bit me in the bum; I got my car on stands and had everything ready, then realized I didn't need a regular socket for the diff drain bolt, I needed a 14mm hex driver socket. That's one huge monkeyfighting socket.

Just something to keep in mind.

Edit: I'd also keep a bike tire lever around for interior trim work, way better than a covered screwdriver.

[danewilson77]

How about you make the 8 hour trip down to Williamsburg...we'll fix your car....and the next day you can take the family to Busch Gardens.

Total Labor 8.5hrs - $552.50

This is the part I hate.......right there....^^^^^^



Also.....IMHO.......you should try to focus on one job at a time.....

I would prioritize them as folows:

1. Do the oil change, air filter, in cabin filter and the engine coolant overhaul.
2. Next, do your VANOS.
3. Then do your brakes. I would recommend new pads and SS lines.
4. Power steering pump.
5. Aux input.

[White Knuckles2]

With an XI, reaching the block drain is a trick. A 3/8 ratchet with a tilting head won't help. I read where there were recommended for non-XI's but didn't work on this baby. I used a standard ratchet with a long, 20" straight extension into a universal (swivel) adapter than into the socket. You can get your hand on it jamming your arm past the steering boot to start or even remove the drain bolt by feel.

[d3v0]

I would prioritize them as folows:

1. Do the oil change, air filter, in cabin filter and the engine coolant overhaul.
2. Next, do your VANOS.
3. Then do your brakes. I would recommend new pads and SS lines.
4. Power steering pump.
5. Aux input.

Problem here is I dont really want to change the oil before I do the valve cover gasket since itll just be burning/leaking/wasted anyway. its not due for 4k miles. I intend to do the jobs as I have time for them, depending on when parts come in. For example, I had the time, parts and tools for the aux input, which is what I did today. If I had a priority it would be this:

1.) Valve cover gasket
2.) Oil Change
3.) Belts+water pump
4.) Brake pads+rotors (theyre in good enough shape to pass inspection, but will be needed soon)
5.) RF wheel bearing (starting to get bad, but not too noisy or wobbly yet)
6.) PS pump
7.) VANOS (timely, a bit above my skill level, and not necessary yet)

My tires also failed inspection, so those are a must-do within 30 days. I am wondering if I should just pick up a set of used OEM wheels for $400-500 with passable tires on them, and then throw winters on them and keep them as a winter set, then keep my style 119's as the summer set. Because right now the local tire place is asking over $400 for even the most basic of all seasons (fierce instincts), and I HATE all seasons. Especially now that I have all the tools to change wheels anytime.

Cabin air filter, air filter, and plugs will be changed at some point, none are overdue really.

Any suggestions about the order in which to do these?

Should I do a RF wheel bearing when I do my alignment? I will do the alignment when I do the wheels/tires, does a wheel bearing typically affect tire wear? Its not a failed bearing, just on its way out lol. minor play.