Not sure what kind of gobbledygook you're trying to type but this is impossible to understand. Spell check would help.
The bigest problem with this is you have EWS1. EWS1 does not need to be bypassed. The only time EWS1 is active is when the car is in double lock. As long as the car is unlocked then EWS1 is turned off. If your doors are unlocked and your car doesn't start it's not an issue with EWS1.
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It will not work on ews2. If your car is manufactured after 12/94 it has to be programmed out. No other solution. If Your car is ews2 and it's production date is before 1/95 the bypass procedure is very simple and very well documented. These are the only 2 solutions for ews 2. Because ews2 is a combination of hardware AND software.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Having spent the whole day reading about it, so it seems.
Are you able to point me in the right direction for software/hardware in order to access the ECU for a flash?
I have a KWP 2000+ on the way but there is so little information available on getting into this ECU. I only need to have this running for a while before it gets a new engine fitted.
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I also have strange question.
I have a 1998 323 which had an EWS1 box in it which has been bridged NO antenna but running fine.
Does this mean that the ECU must have had EWS deleted as surely a 1998 would not run with an EWS1 box plugged in & no antenna?
you don't have an ews1 box in a 323. It's ews2. The last ews1 e36 was produced in 12/94. there are many places you can send your DME to have ews deleted. If you choose not to send it out you can purchase a file from any tuner and upload it to your DME through the obd2 port. The tuner will supply the cable and the software to do all this. Your kwp2000 isn't god g to help you with this.
Last edited by flyfishvt; 12-27-2016 at 05:00 PM.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
I do have an EWS1 box in my 323. It is labelled EWS1. I get that this cannot have been put in from factory as its a 1998 car. This is my way of asking, has the DME had EWS delete if the engine will start without an EWS Antenna & with an EWS Module in this car?
This engine has only been put in to move the car round the bodyshop whilst it goes in, it will then have a 2.8i put in so I am loathed to start spending out on a replacement DME or expensive software.
I am well versed in mapping cars with stand alone systems but haven't done much work on OEM hence the queries on the basics.
EWS1 doesn't use an ews module or antennae ring or transmitter. EWS1 uses the body control module to trigger the anti theft relay as soon as the car goes into double lock. One last time.....all e36s produced after 12/94 have ews2. No exceptions. Now you're talking about stand alones? Let's start at the beginning. Year and model of the car and any modifications.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Sorry, I was mistaken. I have been out to check this morning and the Silver 1998 coupe DID have an EWS 2 module in it which had the 2 big wires chopped and joined & the green wire cut and left not attached. The car has had the ring antenna removed completely.
I take it this means, if this car started that the DME must have had EWS disabled?
The stand alone ECU is on my supra not on the BMW - That is a red herring, just me trying to explain why I wanted more info on how to get into the ECU's as I would like to run my own MAP.
On the car I am having problems started, I today installed the original 328 DME, EWS1 module and the car cranks but does not fire.
I am confident that the 323 DME has had EWS delete so I will now head back to my other thread to see if anyone can help me get to the bottom of why the car won't fire.
I wonder if I need to replace the large relay in the fuse box?
I have a 96 328i and purchased a red label 413 ecu only to find its obd 1 as where a 96 is obd2 of course and my question is since the red obd1 ecu will plug up what would have to be changed or rewired to the original obd 2 harness to make this run or is it possible? I cannot find an american supply for the emulator and my original ews 2 module burnt a hole thru it where the capacitor is . The closest shop that can align the ews and ecu is 100 miles away and want the car and 200 plus bucks so thats not possible for me. Any ideas? Thank you in advance
Last edited by Bowhunter566; 02-16-2017 at 10:33 PM. Reason: add info
Bmw e34 1995 byl tam motor m50b20 vanos,
Dal jsem tam motor m50b25 bez vanos z roku 1991 i s řídící jednotkou + kabeláž, starter točil motorem ale nešla jiskra na svíčky ani nešlo palivo, čerpadlo netlacilo, tak jsem sehnal elektriku z e34 b25 bez vanos z roku 1991 aby to komunikovalo,
Přehodil jsem el. svazek, dal baterku, otočil klíčem kontrolky se rozvistili, starter začal točit, po par otockach sem vybil baterku, vypojil sem, dal jinou nabitou, byl cejtit benzín, tak sem dotahl hadicku k vstřikování, takže to už tlacilo benzín oproti před tím, no a připojil jsem baterku otočil klíčem kontrolky svítí ale starter neotoci, tak jsem zjistil od ostatních že mám najit ews-imobilizér, vypojil jsem baterku, vypojil jsem konektor od ews-imobilizér prestrihnul jsem piny 1 a 3 a spojil, tak mi to bylo řečeno, a nic, měřil jsem jestli jde proud do motoru a jde,
Nevíte někdo co s tím ?
I did the EWS II bypass on my 95 318 i.the car cranks over now but the fuel pump isnt kicking on. I bypassed the fuel pump relay with a jumper wire and I can hear the pump rnning. No spark... What is wrong now..
EWS bypass can be done in the chip in a 95 car. That is the proper way to do it. It's hard to say what's wrong in your case.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Soooooo. I apparently made the mistake of ordering a knock off performance chip. We removed the dme appropriately grounded ourselves and removed the stock (I believe) chip. Installed the silver matching 282 chip and put it back together. Car wouldn't start. Removed #7 pin from large round harness near the fuse box (following direction from intelligent internet) and still wouldn't start. Re installed the old chip and same thing. That was about 4 hours of fooling around last night. The car was built in 10/1995 and it's a 4 cylinder m42. We are at a standstill and racking our brains. I tried to start this morning and still no luck. The dme was hot to the touch. Any ideas? Did I royally screw up here??
Yes you did. you probably got a bad chip that ruined your ECU now. Very typical for new BMW owners
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Yes use a chip from 1994 model car and EWS is bypassed. Do not buy a bypass chip from MarkD because all he does is sell stock 1994 chip and calls it a 1995 ews delete chip.
Makes sense. Total newb here. I have a 282 red label coming as well as a replacement 282 silver label with true Dinan chip. What might I be looking at in regards to swapping? Plug and play or dealer programming? Thank you for the reply.
Hy guys,
I`m Bogdan, from Romania (excuse me if my English is not very correct), I have a problem whit my E36 ( 1.6 M43 from 12.1995)
Problems started 2-3 months ago, when rarely, the car won`t start....I mean the contact swich is on, lights in dashbord go on but nothing else, no click on starter no nothing. Then one day I stopped it and did not start at all.
Then I thought that wos the EWS modul, I try everithing: outher igninition swich (the electric part), other coil what reads the chip, and mani others...after one week I swap engine to 1.8IS M44B19 with all that he requires (DME, EWS modul, starter,etc)...for a month it went very well, but now I have the same problem, in some moments the car just won-t start! it's driving me crazy...I'm afraid one day they will not start at all.
I think I have an electric problem with a wire, an oxidized plug or something like that.
What do you think it might be?
Thank you, I expect your opinions!
This is a great thread and has been very helpful.
I have an EWS0 chassis (1978 e21 320i) and an EWS2 engine (July 2015 e36 M42, 282 DME). I could delete chip but to be honest, there arent too many performance chips for the LATE 95. For the same or less money, I was thinking of just buying a 92-94 Green 990 DME and plugging in a Dinan Performance chip.
Would swapping DME work? I reviewed the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM) and both use the X6000 connector, both have nearly identical wiring at the ECU EXCEPT for that #81 wire, obviously.
Edit: Quite a few chip makers, including Mark D, offer an EWS2 delete with their performance tunes. I will be going that angle.
Last edited by jaredmac11; 07-15-2017 at 11:11 AM.
Bringing an old thread alive, I searched the thread but didn't seem to find a definite answer, I bought a non starting car, long story short, is there any way to verify the ews2 system is working? I have no crank after ordering a new key from bmw. I'd just like to verify my ews system is working before I tear into the starter and such. This seems like the most resourceful thread on the matter, and my current thread hasn't seen much traffic. 1997 328is manual.
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1996 BMW 850ci
2012 Duramax
1974 Camaro
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Guys, just a little query , i may go a bit off topic.
I have 95 E36 325i vert (automatic), i just bought a very bad accident damaged E36 M3, it 3.0 Euro edition assembled in South Africa. I'm uncertain of the year but the previous owner said he "thinks" its a 94 model.
As you figured a transplant is going down soon !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Q1, If the M3 is pre-94 , Should there be any EWS issue if i transfer the entire engine wiring harness.
Q2, Ive searched forum, from what I can gather the x20 plug should be direct plug and play, I cannot find info on older M3 wiring so can i assume its same?
thanks
Pre 94 should be EWS1, which is easy to bypass.
Someone please help. This is driving me insane. I attempted to read through the whole forum and got pretty far in... 5/7 pages in.
Going to try and make this short and sweet.
About 3 months ago my ignition would just spin when I stuck the key in. Upon doing some research I came to find out it’s a common issue with BMW’s. I took the ignition out and was starting the car by putting the chipped key through the antenna so that it would read the key and on the back end of the ignition switch I would turn it, and boom it would fire right up. About a week ago, I was driving the car (the car was running fine and normal as usual), got home turned it off. I went to start the car again a couple hours later to run an errand and the car wouldn’t crank. My luck...
I have a 1995/325is with a production date of 02/1995. It has a silver label DME ending in 413. I bought and EWS deletion chip and installed it hoping it would fix my no crank issue. Sadly it didn’t. I’ve done extensive research and haven’t gotten my wonderful car to work. All my fuses are good btw. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Side note: I’d much rather just bypass the whole key thing, wanting to put a push to start toggle switches. I am aware that I’ll be running the risk of the car being stolen.
Can someone please help me, just got my new DME 484 from ECU repair and the instructions said the normal when you jump the yellow cconnector from pin 1 to pin 3 but I can't find the yellow connector, I have a 1995 e38 (740i) build date 11/94. Where is my EWS? HELP IM GOING CRAZY
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