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Thread: E36 a/c delete

  1. 07-21-2010, 11:14 AM #1
    ultimate99m3
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    E36 a/c delete

    Anyone know a diy I can't find one.
    I can guess how to do it but I need to know if I need anything special if I take off the compressor and the whole ac belt system off.
    is there anything I need thanks
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  2. 07-21-2010, 12:03 PM #2
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    Michael9218
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    Search in general mechanical or E36 forums.

    Here's one for removing the condensor: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=383641

    Removing it is all pretty straightforward. Release the pressure and start removing parts...
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  3. 07-21-2010, 01:03 PM #3
    ultimate99m3
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    Ok thanks man
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  4. 07-21-2010, 03:19 PM #4
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  5. 07-21-2010, 07:25 PM #5
    ultimate99m3
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    Yes sir
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  6. 07-21-2010, 09:37 PM #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael9218 View Post
    Search in general mechanical or E36 forums.

    Here's one for removing the condensor: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=383641

    Removing it is all pretty straightforward. Release the pressure and start removing parts...
    Indeed it is!

    -Ryan
    1993 325is racing car type thing....
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  7. 07-21-2010, 11:07 PM #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultimate99m3 View Post
    Anyone know a diy I can't find one.
    I can guess how to do it but I need to know if I need anything special if I take off the compressor and the whole ac belt system off.
    is there anything I need thanks
    Fairly straight forward. But one watchout. If you remove the crankshaft pulley that drives the a/c, you will need shorter bolts when bolting the crank pulley that drives the WP, Alt, PS back on -- six bolts in total. If you do not use shorter bolts, you run the risk of them sticking out the back of the balancer/crank hub enough to grind into timing chain housing / crank seal.

    Ken
    96 M3, no sunroof, OBD1-M50 intake manifold, ASC delete, CAI by TMS, Shark, VAC oil pan baffle kit, VAC HD oil pump shaft, VAC oil filter top, JB light-flywheel, B&B cat back, AA headers,underdrive pulleys, TCKline Coil overs-Koni SA, JT Design front strut bar, HR springs & bars, TCKline camber plates, Power Flex throughout, X brace, B&M-ssk, 4pt roll bar, fiberglass hood & trunk, Recaro Driver and Corbeau pass. seats and Schroth 6pt, Zionsville alum rad. JT Design front splitter, Z3 power steering rack (2.8 turns), A/C delete, Racepak IQ3 Data Acquisition plus eng oil pres, eng oil temp, eng water temp, brake pressure, and throttle position, final drive - 3.64 LSD by Blanton.
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  8. 07-21-2010, 11:07 PM #8
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    I plan on doing mine soon. Might want to order shorter length crank pulley bolts so you can do away with the ac/crank pulley. Not sure if it does anything, but might as well. You might need to remove the radiator to get the ac bracket off, not sure. Might want to get a spal fan in place of the aux fan.
    WTB: e36 parts
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  9. 07-22-2010, 12:05 AM #9
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    I just did this and you dont need to remove the radiator but it would help if you are planning on doing it soon. I didnt change the crank pulley though whats the gain of doing so anything? You will have a blast getting the compressor bracket off that one bolt was so fun(you will find out which one real quick).
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  10. 07-22-2010, 04:27 AM #10
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    you mean the bolt that backs out into the crank pulley?
    WTB: e36 parts
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  11. 07-22-2010, 11:37 AM #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWMPow3r View Post
    you mean the bolt that backs out into the crank pulley?
    ... for which I removed the crank pulley (6 bolts, no problem). The bracket comes off with no effort then.

    -tammer
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  12. 06-25-2012, 11:37 AM #12
    nyc951
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    I need to replace the a/c compressor bracket this weekend due to a broken bolt that's stuck in there.

    How does removing the a/c pulley on the crank help in this process? I'm trying to picture everything in my head before doing the work. Thanks.
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  13. 06-25-2012, 07:53 PM #13
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  14. 06-26-2012, 06:05 AM #14
    nyc951
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    {{
    Quote Originally Posted by nyc951 View Post
    I need to replace the a/c compressor bracket this weekend due to a broken bolt that's stuck in there.

    How does removing the a/c pulley on the crank help in this process? I'm trying to picture everything in my head before doing the work. Thanks.
    Tammer, can you help me out here? Even after removing the pulleys on the crank, I still see that massive plate with the gear teeth on it. Won't that block access to the bolts for the a/c bracket?

    Thank you}}

    Nevermind. I just checked Real OEM and see that the damper is an single piece tha comprises the pulley and the big ring with teeth. Thanks anyway!
    Last edited by nyc951; 06-26-2012 at 06:09 AM.
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  15. 10-25-2017, 08:53 PM #15
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    Does anyone know what size and length bolts I need for the crank pulley once I remove my AC bracket? Id like to pick up some bolts before I start messing with it.
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  16. 10-25-2017, 09:00 PM #16
    darbyfam
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    I simply put some washers on the bolts and it worked fine.

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  17. 10-26-2017, 11:31 AM #17
    TXBDan
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    I dug through realoem and got the bolts from a nonAC E36. blang!
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  18. 11-29-2017, 09:33 PM #18
    jayoh
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    Could somebody help me out with this.

    I've got the crank pulley off and removed the two bolts on the bracket. Seams it won't come off even with a hammer. Is there a bolt I'm not seeing?

    - - - Updated - - -

    After taking the crank pulley off, then remove the 2 bolts on the bracket. Mine still won't come off. Is there a bolt I'm missing?
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