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Thread: LSx E36 Wiring

  1. #1
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    LSx E36 Wiring

    I am in the process of integrating the wiring from the e36 to the Vortec Truck harness.

    I've got a bunch of spreadsheets that I made up to help with the process so I figured that I would share what I have.

    It seems like a VERY straightforward integration, and I have been so far very pleased with how things are going.

    I have a question about some of the keyed vs. constant batt voltages. Right now I have the keyed sources tied into the Red/Wihte (BMW) wire which is what BMW I assumed uses as the ignition Voltage. The Solid Red being constant Voltage.

    Then there is the question of the other wire that is attached to the starter besides the Black/Yellow (BMW) which I have spliced to the Purple (GM). This wire is the Black/Green (BMW) that says it goes to the OBC and Wiper circuit...? What to do with this wire? This Goes back to pin 15 on the X20 Connector.

    The Fuel Pump Relay... BMW uses Ground to switch on relays correct? At least that is what the logic seems to be if Brown (BMW) is ground. This means that I need to swap pins 4 and 6... Correct? Does the same hold true for the DME/PCM Relay?

    You can Delete the o2 sensor relay or use it to power your fans - the LSx PCM controls/powers the o2 sensor.

    I really just don't want my PCM to let the smoke out...

    You can find the sheets posted below as well as here: http://lsxe36m3.com/?page_id=86

    1992-1995 E36 OBDI M50 Wiring Spread Sheets

    E36*Web

    E36 PDF

    1999-2002 Silverado 5.3 Vortec Wiring Spread Sheets

    Vortec Web

    Vortec PDF

    Integration of the two harnesses

    Integration Web


    Integration PDF
    Last edited by Pzary3233; 07-21-2010 at 03:47 PM.

  2. #2
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    Question - The integration PDF shows for A/C High pressure switch pin -> x20 = pin 5 for pressure switch, but low pressure switch shows -> Shows pin 4 for pressure switch as well. ac compressor relay also shows to use pin 4?
    [2.25" Magnaflow][3.38 LSD][GC Track/School][3.5" HFM][Cosmos V2 + Tuning][UUC Sway Bars][UUC Subframe Bushings, RTAB, RSM w/ Plates, Trans. Mounts][X-Brace][Brembos]

  3. #3
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    That is what I got from the info in the ETM... which is what I don't understand... Need you guys to proof it!

  4. #4
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    Not too sure but from a quick guess would seem like the pressure switch sends a signal to relay as well to set the speed?
    [2.25" Magnaflow][3.38 LSD][GC Track/School][3.5" HFM][Cosmos V2 + Tuning][UUC Sway Bars][UUC Subframe Bushings, RTAB, RSM w/ Plates, Trans. Mounts][X-Brace][Brembos]

  5. #5
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    To quote Rao in this thread:

    Quote Originally Posted by rao View Post
    From an old e-mail:

    "I spent a lot of time learning about LS1 AC - I solved this problem in my last Mazda and got it to work perfectly using the LS1 computer. There is one tricky piece that you need but then it is easy. I was surprised at how little info there was about this, even when I called a bunch of hot rod AC places.

    The way to do it is to use a stock chevy pressure sensor - ACDELCO Part # 155742 {#22664328} http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...rtNum=22664328

    The hard part is that the pressure sensor needs a "special" port, which I have only found at Docs Blocks, it is their part number AC0146. http://docsblocks.com/search_results...earch&iLevel=1

    That fitting needs to be brazed into the high pressure line - on the Camaro it is pretty close tot he firewall so if it will fit there in the BMW the wires will not have to be extended. Alternatively it can be placed close to the dryer. The other alternative is to use a different drier but that is a lot harder to do because all of the lines have to be changed. If you are having lines made then just have the fitting brazed into place.

    Once you have the fitting the wiring is pretty straight forward, there are three other AC wires for the LS1 PCM:

    1. AC Request wire needs +12 V INTO the PCM - this is the way that the PCM knows that you want AC

    2. AC Clutch wire needs to be used to ground the relay that throws power to the AC clutch - this is the way the PCM turns on the compressor, when it wants the compressor ON it allows this wire to go to ground.

    3. AC Status wire needs to be spliced into the +12v that is going to the AC compressor clutch - this is how the PCM knows that when it is asking for the clutch to be in it actually is turned on.


    Here are some links to some discussions about this (you have to sort through a lot of nonsense) but the goodies are in there:

    http://www.torquecentral.com/showthr...&highlight=pcm

    http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=524068 "


    You want to use the LS1 compressor and BMW condenser, evaporator and drier.
    going to look into it and fix it when I get home.

    From above the following connectons need to be made between a Vortec and e36 harness.

    #1AC Request wire needs +12 V INTO the PCM - this is the way that the PCM knows that you want AC

    GM PCM 17 DK GRN/WHT A/C Request Signal
    BMW X20 6 Pink/White Signal to DME to turn on A/C

    #2 AC Clutch wire needs to be used to ground the relay that throws power to the AC clutch - this is the way the PCM turns on the compressor, when it wants the compressor ON it allows this wire to go to ground.

    GM PCM 43 DK GRN/WHT A/C Clutch Relay Control
    BMW X20 4 Black/Lt Blue AC compressor relay +12V IG1 FROM PCM turn on relay

    #3 AC Status wire needs to be spliced into the +12v that is going to the AC compressor clutch - this is how the PCM knows that when it is asking for the clutch to be in it actually is turned on.

    This is a GM wire that needs to be spliced into the GM wire running to the AC compressor getting 12 volts.

    So what is done with the BMW AC compressor wiring? Just tossed? Or do you splice it into the GM wiring so the HVAC knows what's up.

    How about these questions...

    I have a question about some of the keyed vs. constant batt voltages. Right now I have the keyed sources tied into the Red/Wihte (BMW) wire which is what BMW I assumed uses as the ignition Voltage. The Solid Red being constant Voltage.

    Then there is the question of the other wire that is attached to the starter besides the Black/Yellow (BMW) which I have spliced to the Purple (GM). This wire is the Black/Green (BMW) that says it goes to the OBC and Wiper circuit...? What to do with this wire? This Goes back to pin 15 on the X20 Connector.

    The Fuel Pump Relay... BMW uses Ground to switch on relays correct? At least that is what the logic seems to be if Brown (BMW) is ground. This means that I need to swap pins 4 and 6... Correct? Does the same hold true for the DME/PCM Relay?
    Last edited by Pzary3233; 07-15-2010 at 08:12 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  6. #6
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    Great info in those spreadsheets.

    I *think* that you're right about the red/white vs red wires.

    I have no idea about your second question.

    BMW does use Brown for their ground color. As to whether that's what's used to switch on the relays, I have no idea again.

    Signed,
    First time engine swapper


  7. #7
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    The Red(BMW) wires are for sure constant voltage, the Red/White(BMW) wires are now for sure Key'ed voltage.
    Last edited by Pzary3233; 07-21-2010 at 08:40 AM.

  8. #8
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    thanks for sharing this
    -Andrew Mensah




  9. #9
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  10. #10
    M5Hunter is offline Still has a E39 Supporting Vendor
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    for keyed on power I used a seperate relay to power all of my lsx ECU power that was fed by the large green wire in the BMW harness. I also didnt use the BMW fuel pump relay, it was just as easy to stick another relay in.
    Last edited by 357i; 07-19-2010 at 11:27 AM.

  11. #11
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    I guess my goal is to keep it as factory looking as possible...

    The stock FP wiring is all there.... But you're right it is easy to stick another one in there. Maybe I can find a holder that works for the stock location... hum....

    I'll have to go back and look at my harness again tonight inlight of what you just posted.

  12. #12
    M5Hunter is offline Still has a E39 Supporting Vendor
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    If done right, anything can look factory =)

  13. #13
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    oh yes :-)

    Was thinking about getting the factory style relay holders since I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the pins out of them. I've tried the little pick tools without any luck.

  14. #14
    M5Hunter is offline Still has a E39 Supporting Vendor
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    yea, I was fighting with those too. Never got them apart

  15. #15
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    yeah... about that... I'm hoping that my plastic welding skills will be good enough to make a stock looking bracket.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pzary3233 View Post
    The red wires are for sure constant voltage, the red wires are now for sure Key'ed voltage.
    So the reds are both keyed and constant?

    I'm assuming you mean the red/white are keyed?


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  18. #18
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    Thanks

    Some random wiring questions. I posted this in the E36 section, but I'll post it here too since you guys are smarter than 99% of the posters there.

    Where are these wires going to out of the back of the fusebox? Obviously the Red and Red/White are constant and switched, respectively, but what about the others?



    This all stems from my dumbass being impatient and cutting the M50's harness when I removed it rather than unplugging everything...sigh.


  19. #19
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    Ok WHERE in the harness is that picture taken?

    my first reaction is those are injector and coil power wires. and the associated grounds.

  20. #20
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    It is a bundle of wires coming from the rear passenger side of the fusebox. These are the only wires in the harness.


  21. #21
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    Where in this picture of a harness?


    It looks like you cut the Relays off....

    The three on the top right of this picture:

    Last edited by Pzary3233; 07-21-2010 at 01:42 PM.

  22. #22
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    Red circle.



  23. #23
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    Yep 100% the relays.

    BTW thanks for the smarter then 99% of BF.c comment... We seem to be diving deeper into these cars then others...
    Last edited by Pzary3233; 07-21-2010 at 01:49 PM.

  24. #24
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    Okay. So I need to hook the solid red ones back up to the battery block, and the red/white to the switched ignition wire, right?.

    Then there's one Green/Blue, one Green/Purple, two Brown/Green, and one skinny brown ground.

    Any idea where these go? I can't seem to find them elsewhere on the harness.


  25. #25
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    When I get home I can be of more help....

    This is part of the question I had...

    check the e36 PDF it MIGHT help a bit.

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