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Thread: Shift selector seal replacement

  1. #26
    Join Date
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    '92 325IC '88 635
    if you just placed another seal in front of the other seal without the metal retainer set in a fixed boss, it would just move along with the motion of the shifter rod and would NOT be "sealing". The seal is to capture transmission oil from escaping from between the transmission case (fixed) and the moving rod. The original boss is designed to fit only one seal body with a friction fit and can't possibly share another seal's body in it, at least looking at the photo. Just placing it in front of the old one doesn't really do anything. It would ride along with the rod just as if you were to place a rubber band around the shift rod. There's nothing to hold the seal body in place. That's a sealing area too. Am I missing something here?
    Last edited by carsnplanes; 07-02-2010 at 05:40 AM.
    '88 635, '92 325IC

  2. #27
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    84 635csi, 72 3.0csi
    The seal seats into the body and friction fits while sealing around the shift rod. The body is deep enough with uniform dimension that you could fit several seals in a row. You would be pushing the old seal in deeper and the new one would replace. The only potential side effect would be difficulty removing the oldest seal if you ever needed to.
    --Paul
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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by pldlnr View Post
    The seal seats into the body and friction fits while sealing around the shift rod. The body is deep enough with uniform dimension that you could fit several seals in a row. You would be pushing the old seal in deeper and the new one would replace. The only potential side effect would be difficulty removing the oldest seal if you ever needed to.
    ok, so there is no seat or lip that the seal body rests against in the tranny case. What you are saying is that the bore is one dimension deep being able to fit several seals in there like a sleeve of coins. Guess when you are replacing the seal, you have to know when to stop tapping the seal in place as far as depth goes. Also suppose you could get to the back of the seal withing the tranny, but you would have to split the case to get in to the backside to drive the seal out.
    '88 635, '92 325IC

  4. #29
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    Houston, TX
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    '85 323i, '88 E24
    Quote Originally Posted by carsnplanes View Post
    ok, so there is no seat or lip that the seal body rests against in the tranny case. What you are saying is that the bore is one dimension deep being able to fit several seals in there like a sleeve of coins. Guess when you are replacing the seal, you have to know when to stop tapping the seal in place as far as depth goes. Also suppose you could get to the back of the seal withing the tranny, but you would have to split the case to get in to the backside to drive the seal out.
    Generally, whatever you're using to tap in the seal has a slightly larger outer diameter than the seal, so when the back side of the seal is flush with the case, you can't pound it in anymore.
    Houston, TX
    1985 323i, 1988 635csi, 1990 Miata, 2003 LW200
    1981 CM200T, 1984 VF700S

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    USA
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    1988 635CSi-E36/46M3

    Exclamation Hallelujah

    Hallelujah

    I got it out. I used Alpina's idea of bashing it in on one side to kind of get a grip and push it out on the other side, then used a combination long thin Craftsman pick and small screwdriver to leverage her out. Thanks for all of the help guys..

    UPDATE:

    One problem solved now a new one I mangled the new seal trying to get this thing in. Any tips?
    Last edited by chicaneS54; 07-02-2010 at 05:02 PM.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by chicaneS54 View Post
    Any tips?
    At the risk of sounding... well, you know like a smart arse...

    Three words -
    Buy Another One
    Sorry, couldn't help mesef... ';)
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  7. #32
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    1988 635CSi-E36/46M3

    Exclamation

    Quote Originally Posted by IMSARS69 View Post
    At the risk of sounding... well, you know like a smart arse...

    Three words -
    Buy Another One
    Sorry, couldn't help mesef... '
    And at the risk of me sounding like a smart a$$, I already bought another one. I need some advice on getting the new one IN!

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by chicaneS54 View Post
    And at the risk of me sounding like a smart a$$, I already bought another one. I need some advice on getting the new one IN!
    You have to find some thing like a deep socket or pice of pipe, that fits over the selector shaft and is the same diameter as the outer lip of the seal. Put some grease on the outside of the seal and give it a whack with a BFH. Seal should go right in, The trick is for the pressure to be applied evenly.
    81 Euro undergoing total nut and bolt restoration
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  9. #34
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    1988 635CSi-E36/46M3

    Exclamation

    Quote Originally Posted by Bert Poliakoff View Post
    You have to find some thing like a deep socket or pice of pipe, that fits over the selector shaft and is the same diameter as the outer lip of the seal. Put some grease on the outside of the seal and give it a whack with a BFH. Seal should go right in, The trick is for the pressure to be applied evenly.
    I did that (minus the grease). I took a 15mm deep socket and tapped it in. Honestly I am on my back under the car so it is hard at that angle to whack anything and I don't think a huge hammer is going to make it under there. What type of grease (white lithium or tranny oil) and should I heat the outside a little to expand the hole?

  10. #35
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    Don't heat, if anything put the seal in the freezer and shrink it. Any kind of grease is fine.
    81 Euro undergoing total nut and bolt restoration
    pictures at: flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos

  11. #36
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    1988 635CSi-E36/46M3
    Quote Originally Posted by Bert Poliakoff View Post
    Don't heat, if anything put the seal in the freezer and shrink it. Any kind of grease is fine.
    Good idea about the freezer.

  12. #37
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    '87 635Csi & 3 MG's
    FYI, here is the official Factory method for removing / replacing the selector shaft seal; A screw driver and a piece of pipe, the pipe just got a fancy "Special Tool" number as time when on. Of course they show it on the bench:

    http://www.malloc.nl/BMW/635CSi/page....html#refertoc
    http://www.malloc.nl/BMW/635CSi/page....html#refertoc
    http://www.malloc.nl/BMW/635CSi/page....html#refertoc

  13. #38
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    Mar 2010
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    Brier, wa, usa
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    1983 633 csi

    hmmm

    " Lift out radial oil seal."

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Modesto, CA
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    1986 BMW 325e Sedan
    NEED HELP. 86 bmw 325e E30. I have a stuck shift selector seal that i have been trying to get out for a while now. I have tried flatheads, picks, heating the area around the seal, and lubing it up, but nothing has helped the seal come out. It feels as if the metal part of the seal is stuck. Any suggestions on what to get this seal out??
    IMG_20160127_141557.jpg

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    United States
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    2005 x3
    Quote Originally Posted by rem83 View Post
    try to dig into it, hook it and pull it out. eventually after doing this enough, you'll probably break it into multiple pieces, which is when you're close to getting it out.

    only problem is - once you start tearing into it, then you REALLY need to replace it.
    Yup "how many times have i said, " .... if we could just get back where we were when w started. "

  16. #41
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    Nov 2005
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    Santa Barbara, CA
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    95 bmw m3 49k miles
    I've removed two of these - the best method I've found and previously mentioned is to use a small screwdriver or other tool to push inward on one side of the gasket. This will actually pull the other side out. It kind of turns the gasket on its axis and you are then able to pick out the gasket on the side that comes out from pushing the other side in.

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