Rear Brake Rotor Removal!

[840ways]

Do you remove just the rear brake caliber to remove the rear Brake rotor. The removal of the rotor does not require any other bolt removal or the center nut to be removed to remove the rotor to access the brake shoes (ajusting the shoes to adjust the E-brake) in the rotor hub!

[jerry920]

Do you remove just the rear brake caliber to remove the rear Brake rotor. The removal of the rotor does not require any other bolt removal or the center nut to be removed to remove the rotor to access the brake shoes (ajusting the shoes to adjust the E-brake) in the rotor hub!

Yep unbolt and support the caliper. There is a hex bolt that holds the rotor in postion, remove that. Should come right off. Make sure your parking brake isn't set. When I replaced mine I used a little copper grease on the contact areas between the rotor and the flange.

[Imndeep]

Yes you have to remove the caliper to remove the rotor, also need to remove the screw/bolt that holds the rotor in place. You do not need to remove all that to adjust your parking brake though.

[840ways]

Yes you have to remove the caliper to remove the rotor, also need to remove the screw/bolt that holds the rotor in place. You do not need to remove all that to adjust your parking brake though.

How else do you adjust the shoes. I can not get to the adjusting screw without removing the caliber & rotor.

I can only see the tension spring through the stud holes. I can not see the adjusting screw through the stud holes.

Any suggestions?

[TxGR8White]

How else do you adjust the shoes. I can not get to the adjusting screw without removing the caliber & rotor.

I can only see the tension spring through the stud holes. I can not see the adjusting screw through the stud holes.

Any suggestions?

If you were to download the repair manual (first suggestion), you would see that the adjustment screw for the parking brake is accessible through one of the wheelbolt holes (orient/turn the rotor until one of those holes is at the 6-o'clock position). Insert a flat balde screwdriver and make the adjustment.

[rcrad6653]

A note at this point... with all the rust that can happen, don't be surprised if the rotor retaining bolt is seized. This is a non-essential piece, so if you have to drill it out to get the rotor off then no worries, you can replace it or leave it off.... it's just easier to get the wheel on with the rotor secured. If it is seized the soak it liberally with 'Liquid Wrench' or PB Blaster' These should dissolve the corrosion enough to get the bolt off to be able to turn the rotor.

[840ways]

If you were to download the repair manual (first suggestion), you would see that the adjustment screw for the parking brake is accessible through one of the wheelbolt holes (orient/turn the rotor until one of those holes is at the 6-o'clock position). Insert a flat balde screwdriver and make the adjustment.

Most appreciated!!

If you were to download the repair manual (first suggestion), you would see that the adjustment screw for the parking brake is accessible through one of the wheelbolt holes (orient/turn the rotor until one of those holes is at the 6-o'clock position). Insert a flat balde screwdriver and make the adjustment.

Steffen,

I had already down loaded the repair manual. And I have rotated the rotors but cannot located the adjusting screw @ the 6 oclock position.

Looking at the diagram, it does not look like a screw that you turn with a flathead screwdriver. I am still seeing springs at that 6 position and the complete turn of the wheel. I am missing something. Does this adjusting screw resemble a normal flathead screw or from the repair manual diagram?

[Timm]

It is a bit fiddly, that's for sure! Here's some info and pictures on it:

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E32/Brakes/Index.htm

[840ways]

I could not locate the adjuster screw at 6 o'clock or any position that the rotor was at with any of the lugbolt holes. I believe that the rotor must be removed in order to access the adjuster screw.

Who has adjusted their E-break shoes via the lugbolt holes at the 6 o'clock or any position on their 840 without removing the rotor?

Again, I tried unsuccessfully to locate this adjuster screw through the lugbolt holes!

[TxGR8White]

I could not locate the adjuster screw at 6 o'clock or any position that the rotor was at with any of the lugbolt holes. I believe that the rotor must be removed in order to access the adjuster screw.

Who has adjusted their E-break shoes via the lugbolt holes at the 6 o'clock or any position on their 840 without removing the rotor?

Again, I tried unsuccessfully to locate this adjuster screw through the lugbolt holes!

If you remove the rotor, then you will see exactly where the adjuster wheel is. They are sometimes hard to see with all the brake dust on everything...

[wokke]

A note at this point... with all the rust that can happen, don't be surprised if the rotor retaining bolt is seized. This is a non-essential piece, so if you have to drill it out to get the rotor off then no worries, you can replace it or leave it off.... it's just easier to get the wheel on with the rotor secured. If it is seized the soak it liberally with 'Liquid Wrench' or PB Blaster' These should dissolve the corrosion enough to get the bolt off to be able to turn the rotor.

An alternative to the above suggestion which has always worked for me. Insert the torx bit in the screw head and give it a nice hit with a hammer. This normally frees it and you can easily unscrew it afterwards. This is BTW in general my first attempt with corroded and seized screws.

[rcrad6653]

840ways, Wolf's suggestion is a good one and the first thing I do after I have soaked the little bolt with the PB Blaster I mentioned. However here in the US I've not seen a rotor yet that uses a Torx bolt, it's an Allen head. All of this is of course a moot point if your bolt comes off just fine.... in Cali you don't have rust problems.

[840ways]

An alternative to the above suggestion which has always worked for me. Insert the torx bit in the screw head and give it a nice hit with a hammer. This normally frees it and you can easily unscrew it afterwards. This is BTW in general my first attempt with corroded and seized screws.

The rotor bolt is an Allen bolt. I have removed this already. I just did not want to remove the caliber & rotors to adjust the shoes.

So what everyone is saying is that the rotor has to be removed in order to access the adjuster screw.

Am I correct in this statement.

Again, I would rather use a flathead screwdriver through one of the bolt holes to turn the adjuster screw. It saves time removing and re-installing the calibers.

[rcrad6653]

geezus Look....it doesn't matter what you would rather.. you said you couldn't see the adjuster...... for all this writing online over yesterday and today this could've been done 10 times over. The caliper comes off the bracket (it's caliper, not caliber...we aren't talking about bullets) comes off with 2 allen bolts..pull the plastic caps off and do it!.... if you can't see the adjustment point by rotating the rotor then you have no choice! Hang the rotor by a bent coathanger and not by the brakeline! just. do. it.

[840ways]

geezus Look....it doesn't matter what you would rather.. you said you couldn't see the adjuster...... for all this writing online over yesterday and today this could've been done 10 times over. The caliper comes off the bracket (it's caliper, not caliber...we aren't talking about bullets) comes off with 2 allen bolts..pull the plastic caps off and do it!.... if you can't see the adjustment point by rotating the rotor then you have no choice! Hang the rotor by a bent coathanger and not by the brakeline! just. do. it.

First off I can remove the caliper (miss spelling - did not review). I install my break pads on all four wheel. This is on all my vehicles.

I have never had to adjust my break shoes before!!

If you would read what I writing, I have no problem removing the caliper or the rotor.

My issue is with finding the the adjuster screw through the bolt holes with the rotor still on.

Can you understand that!

Also, what the hell is bullets have to do with anything! I have a CHL so I know what a 9mm .40s&w & .45 auto, rifle - 5.56, 5.45, 7.62x39, 7.62x51 (.308), 7.62x54 (54r). is. I shoot every weekend. I will be at the range tomorrow as matter fact. If you want to discuss pistols, rifles & ammo go to AR15.com. I am "Functional" on that forum!!

Also, I have several firearms of what I just stated. I am an AK man (Norinco, Poly, Polish, Romie) & a nice Colt AR15 M16A1. I don't just live 8 series bimmers.

[rcrad6653]

I could not locate the adjuster screw at 6 o'clock or any position that the rotor was at with any of the lugbolt holes. I believe that the rotor must be removed in order to access the adjuster screw.

Who has adjusted their E-break shoes via the lugbolt holes at the 6 o'clock or any position on their 840 without removing the rotor?

Again, I tried unsuccessfully to locate this adjuster screw through the lugbolt holes!

I am reading perfectly fine what you have written, the above is what you said, and that is what I'm referring to. You give all indications in your thread that you are a complete newbie and not experienced as you say until just now. You have been shown the way by various people, and you can't do it, so....

[840ways]

I am reading perfectly fine what you have written, the above is what you said, and that is what I'm referring to. You give all indications in your thread that you are a complete newbie and not experienced as you say until just now. You have been shown the way by various people, and you can't do it, so....

Dude what Tree did you fall from. If you would pull your head out your butt, you could understand what I saying.

I am not a newbie. I have had my 8 since 1997.

My M3 since 1988. I have changed the break pads on these cars a least a dozen time a piece.

I have put new front rotors on my 1988 M3.

[rcrad6653]

Have fun Perhaps if you keep asking the same question different ways you'll get an answer that works for your situation. We're trying to help, what you have been doing so far isn't working, and you are resisting doing something that takes 10 minutes to do and would help you see what's going on. Good luck to you sir.

[840ways]

Have fun Perhaps if you keep asking the same question different ways you'll get an answer that works for your situation. We're trying to help, what you have been doing so far isn't working, and you are resisting doing something that takes 10 minutes to do and would help you see what's going on. Good luck to you sir.

I am a justing them now. I had to remove the rotors to get to the adjusting screw!

Nothing you said helped me! You did not read my question or understand what I was asking.

I could not access the adjuster screw WITH THE ROTOR ON!

You where just a A-hole!! Annoying A-hole!!

Thanks for Nothing!!

[rcrad6653]

Take it easy there tex, it's just an E31 forum. Showing your temper and acting like a fool isn't gonna get you much help from anybody. Even if you're pissed at me and think I'm a worthless pos at least thank everyone else for trying. You said I didn't read.... one of the prominent Texas boys early on told you that you can spin the rotor (without taking it off) so things are lined up as Timm has graciously described with pictures even, so you can make adjustment.

[Timm]

It must be adjusted with the rotor fitted, otherwise the brake will not be adjusted correctly:





From this routine:

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E32/Brakes/Index.htm

[Ladislav]

I am a justing them now. I had to remove the rotors to get to the adjusting screw!

Nothing you said helped me! You did not read my question or understand what I was asking.

I could not access the adjuster screw WITH THE ROTOR ON!

You where just a A-hole!! Annoying A-hole!!

Thanks for Nothing!!

I see that you are going to get very far next time you need help.

[Imndeep]

This is Hilarious , Dude, when I rebuilt my suspension on my 8'er the adjustment was on the top at around 12 o'clock. There are VERY knowledgable people trying to help you be patient. It's weird because it's polar opposite of what that very useful information from Timm's website showed, which is the correct way for adjustment on all BMW's. 840ways, drink a beer focus on the prob relax and get 'er done! Sheesh, is this how folks get when their missing 4 cylinders?

Chris

[Timm]

Sheesh, is this how folks get when their missing 4 cylinders?

Chris

I'm OK, I have an E38 as well as the E31 so quite happy with 16 cylinders

[rjjablo]

Just opened mine up, adjust is at 12 on my 1991 850. Removed the caliper Pins first and then the mounting bolts which is ass backwards but worked very well