BMW 1999 740il NO CRANK

[IcemanBHE]

Ill say it. ANYTIME any weird EWS/DWA starting issue happens, you CANNOT diagnose this easily without factory software.

The $100-150 you spend on diagnosis fee will save you many hours of labor and parts swapping costs. How much is your time worth?

You need someone with DIS/GT1 or INPA at the least to fix this.

Im not being mean, and I appreciate you trying to fix this, but somethings are un fixable without information.

[Oboyco]

When my DME fried last year I considered going with a used DME, EWS, key etc, and a dealer and a very good Indy recommended not going that route. When I tried two used DME's (this Indy has some very sophisticated software which at the time he swore up and down he could get the used one to work) I finally ponied up for a new one to the tune of $1200 for the part alone. The EWS III was not handshaking with the DME, which in this instance can only be programmed once, and the fuel pump would not operate. EWS shut it down. Cranked fine.

To be honest, you may want to consider a new EWS, DME, and whatever related parts. You could end up spending a whole lot more trying to get this extremely complicated system, to get your car running

[locknload]

I think you need to decide if this car is worth fixing. As i read it, your engine may be locked up. You need to figure out why. First thing to do is remove the starter, it may have just jammed in the flywheel and need replacing. (maybe you already did this part?). Once the starter is out, put a wrench on that big bolt at the front of the crank and see if it will turn. Or, you can try doing it via the flywheel teeth. If it is free, (at least 2 complete revolutions) it is probably the starter, check it also for damage. If the engine is still locked up, you have a much bigger problem and need to methodically check the usual suspects (timing chain/gears/tensioners), cams still properly timed?, broken rod cap, etc. Most of that you can inspect without pulling the engine. Once you know the problem, you can decide if it can be repaired or the engine should be replaced. Bear in mind, you may still have module problems as you are still missing either the spark or the fuel, so once the engine is fixed, you are back where you started in post #20. Maybe it's just a bad fuel pump or old fuel or a clogged filter, or maybe your DME isn't convinced it's in the right car and is witholding the spark. Just some food for thought. Figure out your locked up engine and then come back for more help.

[ricknieves]

Thanks locknload I appreciate you taking the time to reply to my problem. Yes I already took the starter out, I connected directly to a battery and It looks like it’s working properly, still have some burn smell from lat time when I try running the ignition. I am very puzzle as what can make the engine lock like these? it was spinning fine after I fix the starter plug, but as I was trying to get it going, it stop spinning, and it make the starter get super hoot, that’s when the starter begin smoking ,I immediately stop trying cranking it, disconnected the battery and pull the starter out. I did try moving the flywheel with screwdriver but I did not want to force it. Next I will remove the radiator plus fan, and try on the crank. If not moving, then I will continue to remove the cylinder head coves, to expose more of the inside of the engine. Currently this engine have 108k on it, I don’t know if it will be wiser to get a remanufacture long block, then putting money into this engine with these much miles on it. The rest of the car is in excellent shape; paint and the interior maybe an 8 out of 10 and I got the car for a super good price, so I do have room for improvements. Well let see what I have on the engine first! Thank you all.

[locknload]

Does it have oil in it? If you cranked it long enough with a dry sump or broken oil pump, it's possible something got hot enough to break or seize. It is possible it won't turn in the running direction but will turn in the other direction. If that's the case, something inside has broken and jammed up the rotating parts inside (the proverbial monkey wrench). You might start checking with LKQ or car-part.com to find an engine, just in case it goes that way. How many miles on the car?

[ricknieves]

I removed heads covers and it looks ok, I notes the timing chain a bit lose, but still in place. Also noted very small plastic ground up pieces all over the heads, I am assuming it was part of the chain guide rail. As I was trying to remove the fan Clutch, I got the engine lose. It’s now rotating properly. I bet you the upper portion of the guide rails broke off, and were jammed up on one of the gears down by the oil pan. I compared to a photo of another engine, and you can see guide rails coming all the way up, almost at the heads level. But on mine all you can see is the chain by itself, and have way down you can glance a bit of what is left of the rail. So it looks like I am going to replace the chain tensioner, rail, deflection rail etc. Is there anything else I should consider replacing wile I am doing these? The car has 108k Miles on it. Thanks Rick

[locknload]

conventional wisdom here says to replace pretty much all of the timing chain system (gears, chain, tensioner, guides, etc, etc). There will also be some special tools needed for setting the cam timing correctly. Never done it myself, but someone here has and maybe will offer some advice or do a search. (Maybe e38.org)? Also, plan to drop the lower sump and clean out any bits that may have fallen down there or may be in the oil pump. That will also give you an opportunity to inspect the bottom end before commiting the large chunk of $$ it will take to do the chains. Keep in mind, you still have problems somewhere with spark or ignition (assuming the compression is ok). It would be nice if you could confirm what you need in those departments before doing the chain work.

Also, confirm you can (carefully) rotate the engine now at least 2 full revolutions without something stopping it. If your chain has jumped a tooth, it's possible you have valve/piston damage. If the engine was jammed hard enough to smoke the starter, you can bet it wasn't plastic doing it.

[darkstarmedia]

I'd also recommend dropping the oil pan and looking for metal. it may have had a spun bearing or something when you bought it and by cranking it with out oil pressure it may have finally locked up.

Richard

[01740ISP]

Sorry, I have nothing to contribute but to say my eyes are hurting...

subscribed
-Messan

[ricknieves]

Update:
Ok looks like is all good after replacing the guide rails for the timing, I assemble it all back. But still have the starting problem, it will crank but no start. So I pull the sparkplugs, they were all wet on gas, so I figure the engine was flooded? That’s way it was not starting, so I drip some oil in all piston cylinder and follow a procedure I found on, how to start a flooded engine. After 3 or 4 minutes I got it to start. I must say, still is smoking oil like crazy. Also I found a coolant leak coming from the reservoir tank, so I will now have to fix that as well. I am so glad that the car finally starts.

[karmaz]

Well done man, glad to hear you got a result in the end

[Edwin NL]

Keep us posted on the outcome!

[Ltbordo]

I think you’re doing a good job. Keep it up. These things are terribly expensive to have a dealer or Indy wander around on them unsupervised!!!