You know, i'm not sure now that i got it all off. I have a brand new insulation ready, but i'd need to remove the hood to install it... ive read that if you try to install it with the hood still on the car, the cross bars that support the hood ruin the installation.
So after 3 days of ~3-4 hours of scraping and buffing, i'm physically beat... I can hardly lift my arms. I did manage to get it 100% off, very very minor yellowing from the glue.
I did take pictures, going to create a thread about it since there arent many threads that talk about this topic.
I suggest using Goo Gone and an old credit card for scraping. A stiff plastic squeegee used for applying vinyl works too.
The trick to getting it off is patience, elbow grease, time for the Goo Gone to soak, and frequently turning and changing the edge of the credit card (sometimes using the corners also). I did it at room temperature, but have heard that warmed up a little helps it come off. Also heard WD40 works instead of the Goo Gone, but i dont know how well. I'll go int more detail about it all in my thread.
Stancing is for drivers trapped in an abusive relationship of their own lives.
Are the rear pop out windows easy to remove?
My car is going to paint and if they are easy to take out, I'll remove them myself.
Very easy... pop off the covers on the inside of the door posts, and loosen BUT DONT REMOVE the nuts revealed. Then remove the screw holding the rear hinge part to the window. The window will slide out towards the rear of the car. Gaskets might be hard to remove without damaging them, if they've been thoroughly glued on.
Today I locked my keys in the car! Nailed it.
-John
I painted my engine block today. The goal is to put it back together and drive it to the vintage in 2 weeks. We'll see how that goes!
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I stopped by the bodyshop working on my car today and the bottom tabs on both pop out rear windows were rusted beyond repair... on both sides!... must have been a bad design for both windows to have the exact same issue.
So I'm in search of pop out rear windows for both sides.
I don't think it matters because realOEM says part number runs from 75-83 but my car is an '83.
Anyone have some kicking around that they would be willing to ship to Ontario, Canada?
Rock Auto Close outs:
http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclef...l=en&html=true
Randy
So I was looking at the in-tank pump yesterday and the assembly in my car has a return line on it. I was wondering if I could find a way to fit an E30 pump onto it... the only difference I can see is that the E21 pump is grounded to the body of the fuel pump assembly whereas the E30 pump has both wires going back to the plug. Other than that they look the same. Has anyone done this?
Ski found a drop in replacement, which I want to say was an e30 pump. If you're keeping the engine though, the stock e30 pump won't deliver enough pressure
-John
Brand new wiper blades and a brand new indicator relay.
Hasn't fixed my lack of cluster indication light and seems to have one less prong than the existing relay... (Is a genuine BMW part)
Picked up a Wix Oil Filter,locally, I change these oil filters out every 6 months, also dropped in a can of Gumout Regane with PEA big can 20 oz.--got a $10 coupon so I paid $4 for it..
Randy
Successfully fixed alternator belt squeal by tightening up the belt. Job is a little tricky done by yourself
Got a new windshield installed today to replace the cracked one that was on the car when I bought it. I used the URO seal and the fit was great. I also used the black locking strip/decorative strip from an e30 and it also fits great and I like the look better compared to the chrome one that the car originally came with and I won't have to worry about the chrome turning brown. For reference I live in South Carolina and paid $165 for the windshield and the labor to install it, around $15 for the URO windshield seal from rockauto and around $72 for the locking strip from the local BMW dealer with the CCA discount. Overall extremely happy and one step closer to having the car on the road.
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@JDTable, thanks for the details on that windshield. I actually just cracked mine while swapping dashes. So I will have to do this sooner or later. Was the windshield readily available?
The windshield replacement company I used had one in their warehouse so I lucked out there in terms of availability. I was able to find one on rockauto when I was searching for one a few months ago, though it was a bit pricey with the shipping
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My hazard switch didn't have a triangle on it, and now it does.
Cold start idle was down a little, adjusted the air auxiliary valve slide and idle is back up to where it should be, also did a little welding.
Randy
ordered GAZ gold dampers and springs and full suspension bush kit
Changed out all of the soft brake lines and replaced the 80s "locking" wheel bolts since the key was starting to crack. I also replaced my muffler hangers, but one of the new ones snapped during installation. I'll have to get OE BMW next time, but I figured the Rein ones were worth a try for $4 total. My original suspension bushings look like they are starting to crack after daily driving the car for three years, so that's next on the list.
Changed out the Wix Oil Filter with new one 6 month cycle.
Randy
Changed out my fuel filter, Wix 33276. Wix fuel filter is much bigger(longer) than the Bosch, at least 20-30 % more filter area,,this Wix was made in Germany.
Randy
Sure, Wix, Made in Germany, China made Wix are smaller, Bosch 71033 size.
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Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 08-15-2018 at 11:34 PM.
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