When my car has been sitting a while, some fluid obviously leaks. I pump the clutch pedal many times and pressure will come back. And it works.
Maybe the slave is leaking a little. Or maybe both the clutch master and slave should be replaced.
I had that happen to me once, Clutch would not engage bled the the back wheel cylinders then the front calipers and last the clutch slave and the clutch came back up strong, air in the lines would be my first assumption as well. I bought a power brake bleeder and use Dot 4, 15 to 20 psi does the whole hydraulic system, no need to pump the brake petal or clutch petal, open the valves when solid fluid appears in the clear line after a few seconds close and on to the next one.
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 10-01-2022 at 12:16 PM.
Sanded, primed, and painted:
1. Coilover rear springs @500 lbs/inch rate to be paired with front @360 lbs/inch
2. Part of front strut bar
20221007_155726.jpg
Just got the results from the Blackstone Labs Oil Analysis. They found high levels of potassium which indicate coolant. I think I have just the generic green AutoZone coolant right now. Will probably check it out in a few weeks when I go down for the SoCal Vintage BMW show. Maybe just a borescope camera in the spark plug holes to see if any cylinder show signs of being "too clean". Full report below:
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'81 E21 320i / '90 E30 325i / '̶9̶2̶ ̶E̶3̶4̶ ̶5̶2̶5̶i̶t (sold) / '15 Toyota XW30 / '̶̶8̶0̶ ̶E̶2̶1̶ ̶3̶2̶0̶i̶A̶ (sold)
Did adjustment of front wheel bearings , re-grease, and tire rotation.
Raise the front end take off the front tires and remove and hang the calipers, I used a metal coat hanger.
Remove the screw 5 mm that secure the rotor to the hub
Remove the cotter pin that locks in the 24 mm crown nut and remove the crown nut.
The hub will now slide out, re-grease the bearings and make sure there enough grease in the hub itself so it contacts the shaft.
Put hub back in and attach the rotor with 5 mm screw-make sure its very tight and put back in the crown nut with its washer.
Rotate the rotor as your tightening the crown nut stop tightening when the rotor stops from turning-sets everything in place no slack, loosen the crown nut now and rotate the rotor while tightening to 2 ft lbs- I used my in-lbs torque wrench when at 24 in - lbs 2 ft lbs stop and put the cotter pin in, if its blocked by the crown nut back it off till the hole of the shaft can take the cotter pin and insert and spread it out, put back in the cup that covers it if one is there and your done , put back on the caliper and tire and torque both to oem settings.
I am using Febi bearings and these have been the best so far including SKF service, a while back I bought a set of Febi front bearing with grease seal, bearings, and cotter pin I paid around $24 for 2 sets, now its like $24 for one side--- "shrinkflation" , you get less for more money.
After doing the bearing adjustment , I rotated the tires back to front , front to back.
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 10-20-2022 at 06:53 PM.
Changed out the differential fluid with 1 qt of SAE 80/90 and checked the bolt tightness of the face plate to the 3rd member housing. Topped off transmission fluid with Pennzoil synchromesh fluid.
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 10-21-2022 at 07:22 PM.
Prep and paint ongoing and ongoing...
IMG_6971.jpg IMG_6972.jpg
95 540i/6 HE53
00 528it/5 DP53
01 530i/5 DT53
83 320i M10
Just Bought 4 M22 x 1.5 mm drain plugs. I bought these for the two differentials or 3rd members I have. The OEM 3rd member drain and fill plugs have an allen hex key in them, this upgrade will make the process of draining and filling the 3rd member much easier. I already changed the OEM allen hex key fill/drain plugs on the transmission to the newer bolt style making it much easier to fill,drain, and top off the transmission. 4 with washers for $16, last set at this price.
s-l1600.jpg
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 02-16-2023 at 12:09 PM.
88 M3
91 318is
91 318i
83 320is
08 X3 3.0si
"If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"
Yes, The newer style transmission drain/fill BMW hex bolts are available had them installed for years, I paid ~ $8 ea. I just seen these M22 x 1.5 mm yesterday on eBay. Here is the seller has two sets of two left. $12 a set. For $12 one differential is easier to drain /fill with standard tools.
s-l1600.jpg
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18574940806...Bk9SR8aMgoLMYQ
Here is a set of 10 for $18.50
s-l1601.jpg
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26578050770...3ABFBMmsTUg8xh
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 02-17-2023 at 11:40 AM.
Replaced the 40-year old injectors and lambda sensor (no idea how old it was)
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Bought a pair of these to put in my backup Getrag 245 5 sp transmission from Pelican Parts ( 27-11-1-226-798-BOE)-ships today ~$23 for two. The allen hex plugs eventually get loose being thin walled and its more of a task to take them in and out-till they strip out, they are 17 mm allen wrench or 17 mm hex bit size by the way, this way I can use a 1/2 " socket with 1/2 " socket wrench making the job a lot easier. I have these installed on my Getrag 245 running in the car right now.
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Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 02-20-2023 at 11:22 AM.
Ran it in a night time TDS rally here in Vermont.
Differential fill/drain plugs came in. I have two 3.91 open differentials , one is rebuilt- like new and the other on the car.
IMG_20230221_112714_019.jpg Stock with Allen Hex key leftIMG_20230221_112801_702.jpg Stock Left IMG_20230221_112918_782.jpg same length of thread IMG_20230221_113023_171.jpg 4 with washers.
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 02-21-2023 at 02:48 PM.
Drove to work again Checked the oil, perfect. Needs an alignment, slight left pull on the highway. Has a 55 mph shimmy
Last edited by cgifool; 02-21-2023 at 04:13 PM.
Transmission fill/drain plugs came in. Will install in my backup Getrag 245 5-Speed to change out the 17 mm Allen hex plugs.
IMG_20230222_125334_646.jpg
Randy
Bought a set of these NGK Iridium IX Spark plugs BPR5EIX 6597 made for BMW 320i for $30 plus change. Going to run these a while and see how they perform. It is said they have more complete combustion and require lower voltage to due so and last up to 50,000 miles maybe even more as they wear less than platinum or double platinum.
NGK Iridium 6597 BPR5EIX.jpg
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 02-22-2023 at 11:15 PM.
Here is a listing from NGK that fits 1980 BMW 320i E21 1.8L, 6597 is still available, looks like being replaced with more expensive version, 95525.
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Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 02-26-2023 at 02:27 PM.
‘82 320iS. Replaced starter with smaller lighter unit. Observed that WUR filter was clean. Reassembled and engine would not run…start, die, start, die…doh, left brake booster hose off. Reinstalled booster vacuum hose and thought for sure it would now run, well it did until the fuel pump fuse blew…what???? Replaced fuse, same result. Disassembled all wiring to check for shorts/errors, including ground at manifold support. All looked good. Reconnected all wiring to WUR, starter, ground, and the hot start diaphragm…someone has to tell me what that dang thing does...there is just one port, how can it do anything? Replaced fuse, would not start. Jumped fuel pump relay, pumps running, fuse warm but not hot. Got engine started…I think it was flooded. Replaced fuel pump relay and seems to be running fine.
BTW, the smaller starter requires you make a pigtail for the solenoid/starter trigger wire (or whatever you call it). The spade terminals on the starter are super short, and thus not reliable.
Edit/add: Ok, so the hot start diaphragm is really a vacuum switch…can’t be anything else. More testing and the fuel pump fuse still gets hot a blows. Starting a new thread.
Last edited by DavidF; 02-28-2023 at 05:42 PM.
Today after a good 30 minutes in traffic, only a quarter mile or so from home, my 2-year-old cheap chinese fuel pump started making noisy noises. About halfway home from there it sputtered a few times, the engine cut out a couple times, and finally died not 3 blocks from home. Lucky break considering how much I've been driving it all over town the last few weeks.
Oh well. I knew it was a risk when I bought that pump. Parked it and put the cover on, guess I'll get it towed this weekend.
After a relatively short search online I ordered an NOS Bosch pump from Greece. Looks like they're NLA from the usual suppliers stateside.
Is this an in tank pump or outside pump? I've replaced both. Outside pump was Bosch, readily available in USA. In tank pump was replaced with just a generic pump added to existing assembly.
Both work fine.
My early car has no in-tank pump. This is the outside one, which is different between early and late cars, part # 16121118344
Looks like this one: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...80-254-982-INT
I did find it here, but the photo doesn't match the pump so I was suspicious and didn't go for it.
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Intake-F...121118344.html
Bought a couple of New Fuel Filters, 2-$26/free shipping. Purolator filters ( air/ fuel ) are original equipment for these cars.
s-l1600.jpgs-l1600a.jpg
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 03-02-2023 at 11:38 AM.
Either will work, newer style ones have replaceable shutoff valves otherwise they are the same in psi and gph ect. You would need an acorn or cap nut M12x1.5mm(many around) and a couple of sealing washers for the newer style ones. I see a bosch one for $68 brand new that will work form FCP Euro..
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 03-02-2023 at 12:17 PM.
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