Thread: What did you do to your e21 today?

  1. #4751
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    Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link

  2. #4752
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLD MAN View Post
    "This posting has been flagged for removal. "

    Might want to check on that posting, or did it sell that fast this time?
    '81 E21 320i / '90 E30 325i / '̶9̶2̶ ̶E̶3̶4̶ ̶5̶2̶5̶i̶t (sold) / '15 Toyota XW30 / '̶̶8̶0̶ ̶E̶2̶1̶ ̶3̶2̶0̶i̶A̶ (sold)

  3. #4753
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    1981 320i silver
    I made a video recording of the lunar eclipse. Earlier I removed the fuel tanks from one of my parts cars, the 1983. Will post pics tomorrow. They had water in them, just a little, and rust. The in-tank fuel pump assembly had corrosion.
    Cool Ride.jpg
    Last edited by okieflats; 01-21-2019 at 01:03 AM.

  4. #4754
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    Australia
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    1983 BMW E21 318i
    Installed thin 16 inch Spal Electric Fan and new radiator. This is just test setup if that works. Tomorrow will make all the cables neat and find better grounding spots.

    [IMG]Spal 16 inch fan by Haklography Images, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]Spal 16 inch fan by Haklography Images, on Flickr[/IMG][IMG]Spal 16 inch fan by Haklography Images, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Here is VIDEO: https://www.flickr.com/photos/159199...posted-public/
    Last edited by matejhakl; 01-21-2019 at 04:43 AM.

  5. #4755
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  6. #4756
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    I went full retard ! Check my build thread in my Signature or follow me on instagram @ButteDorFrank








  7. #4757
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    Bought some aftermarket door gasket material and patched up some gaps on the drivers side. Interior is noticeably quieter at speed.

  8. #4758
    Join Date
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by matejhakl View Post
    Installed thin 16 inch Spal Electric Fan and new radiator. This is just test setup if that works. Tomorrow will make all the cables neat and find better grounding spots.

    [IMG]Spal 16 inch fan by Haklography Images, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]Spal 16 inch fan by Haklography Images, on Flickr[/IMG][IMG]Spal 16 inch fan by Haklography Images, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Here is VIDEO: https://www.flickr.com/photos/159199...posted-public/
    What did you do to the bottom radiator brackets ? Open them up , make new ones ? I have seen the 40 mm and 56 mm core Aluminum radiators bottom is too wide for the bottom bracket holders with the rubber inserts. What material did you use to cushion the bottom ?

    Randy

  9. #4759
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    Finished up buying my annual tune up parts, lots of testing , new parts and adjustments.. been looking into aluminum radiators,, looks like mods on the bottom radiator bracket is necessary.


    Randy

  10. #4760
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    Just started up to get some gas and groceries, the car motor was stumbling a little and the idle was sinking below normal, I knew from the sound of the motor and the power lacking, what was going on, got some groceries and gas and changed out the main relay at a shell gas station, The idle popped back up to normal and the normal power restored. All in all 30 seconds or less repair.

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 03-06-2019 at 03:29 PM.

  11. #4761
    Join Date
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    E21,E38,E39,F10 M5
    I finally got a hold of and installed a mint condition heckblende rear panel with "BMW" on it from Italy.

    Stancing is for drivers trapped in an abusive relationship of their own lives.

  12. #4762
    Join Date
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    Hialeah
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    E30, E21
    Finally got a break from son/brother/uncle/husband/father obligations and installed an Ansa dual tip muffler. It sounds pretty much like the rusted out original that was on there already, but looks really neat.

  13. #4763
    Join Date
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    E21 320i, E30 325i
    Took my second E21 on its longest drive yet from San Jose to Sonoma raceway and back for the Hooptiecon / LeMons car show. The automatic is just a drag to drive.

    Screenshot_20190311-005003.jpg
    '81 E21 320i / '90 E30 325i / '̶9̶2̶ ̶E̶3̶4̶ ̶5̶2̶5̶i̶t (sold) / '15 Toyota XW30 / '̶̶8̶0̶ ̶E̶2̶1̶ ̶3̶2̶0̶i̶A̶ (sold)

  14. #4764
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    Quote Originally Posted by 320iAman View Post
    What did you do to the bottom radiator brackets ? Open them up , make new ones ? I have seen the 40 mm and 56 mm core Aluminum radiators bottom is too wide for the bottom bracket holders with the rubber inserts. What material did you use to cushion the bottom ?

    Randy
    Randy for both my DD and Track car I cut the stock lower mounts off and made new ones out of 3/16" x 1.5" aluminum stock and bolted them to the body. I did this because my radiator was also a little taller then the stock one.

    Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link

  15. #4765
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLD MAN View Post
    Randy for both my DD and Track car I cut the stock lower mounts off and made new ones out of 3/16" x 1.5" aluminum stock and bolted them to the body. I did this because my radiator was also a little taller then the stock one.
    Cool,thanks for the reply, I could see the bottom supports were too narrow for the 40mm and 56mm Aluminum Radiators to fit directly.

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 03-13-2019 at 10:12 AM.

  16. #4766
    Join Date
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    1980 BMW 320i E21 M10B18

    Cool

    Annual Tune up done.

    Checked valves to see Intake/Exhaust, .007/.007, New Rotor,Distributor Cap, Spark Plugs,new O2 sensor and Air Filter. New Wix Oil Filter and 4.5qts of Mobil 1 15-50w with higher content ZDDP , which is good for flat tappets, changed out differential fluid and topped off Transmission fluid for syncromesh . Checked Timing 25 BTDC at 2200 RPM's, Curb idle Speed 850 +/- 50 rpms, checked and adjusted Air/Fuel Mixture. Tested Ignition Module-good, coil output-18KV +, spark plug wire 5KV +. Warm up Regulator 20/50 psi- cold and warm control pressure, Fuel Pump Pressure near 70 psi, rest pressure holding steady above standard.

    My 100A alternator flatlined at 12.2V and the charge light was slightly on, changed out the Voltage Regulator and back in high 13's and Mid 14 Volt ranges. This V-Regulator just gave up the goat, I have two new ones inbound either tomorrow or monday delivered, then I install a new and on my back ups and 100A installed , they all have new Voltage regulators made in Germany..

    My battery was drained some and upon checking I seen the alternator input line + was reading high 20's amps and ground much less, so I used a battery charger to bring the battery up to 99% charge and then started up and checked and after initial surge of alternator into the high 20's amp it quickly leveled to ~ 9 amps in . I didnt want my alternator to charge a low battery Voltage as it stresses the diodes(+/-) and Voltage Regulator--keeps the alternator in its job as battery tenderer not a charger as some say wrongly . Battery Chargers are designed to run High Voltage/step wise at longer periods of time, Alternators are not and they do it gradually like step by step not full rush of Ve/Amps as alternator will do.

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 03-15-2019 at 08:29 PM.

  17. #4767
    Join Date
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    1980 BMW 320i E21 M10B18

    Cool

    ECU-FMV-Lambda Relay

    My FMV started shutting off again, so I wire tested for continuity and voltage all the terminals involved and figured out how it was all working together, I checked G1 and G2 grounds these gave continuity and full voltage, I then checked and cleaned G18 ground, I jumpered the fuel pump relay with 8A fuse and male terminal connections and still it was not running, I changed out the alternator to my rebuilt/remanufactured alternator that I posted here on this site step by step , the armature and stator was not rewound, leave that to a future adventure.. while the fuel pumps were running, I happened to get a hold of the G1 and G2 Ground wires and move them a bit--the FMV turned on.

    I cut out the G1 and G2 wires to the firewall and made new ones with new ring terminals with G1 and G2 wire ends soldered to the ring terminals, new butt splice connectors and used adhesive heat shrink around the splice connectors and over the soldered ends of the G1 and G2 wires so that they are water proof, oil proof, dirt proof ect.

    I took apart the G1 and G2 wires and one of them was separating from the splice connector, thus full amperage to run the FMV was not available.

    Even though you can get a good continuity signal and full voltage in the lines without running the regular amperage thru the line statically , the only way to be sure of a wire and its connectors is too disconnect the wire at both ends and then move the wire inch by inch and measure the resistance or run designed amperage thru the line end to end--like they do at auto electric shops that know what they are doing, this is Class A work .

    Places where wire stands break losing full amperage carrying capacity yet can carry full voltage and give good continuity tests

    1. male terminals
    2. female terminals
    3. connectors
    4. multiple wire solder points
    5 where wires have been bent a lot- removing and installing, insulation missing does not alter amperage carrying capacity, yet is worth a test in that area, shielded wires are the exception.
    6 possibly others, yet doubtful

    At this point I'm patching the wire harness, eventually brand new,,every wire and electrically balance the car better than BMW Engineers Specifications, I see this already, its no biggee..

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 03-21-2019 at 07:22 PM.

  18. #4768
    Join Date
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    Location
    Omaha NE
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    1983 BMW 320i
    Install new tires today, 185/70/13 Cooper Trendsetter SE's.

    Had some Kuhmo's before and got 6.5 years and almost 30,000 miles out of them before they started to crack on the inside beads. Bought the Cooper's on line at Walmart they had them on sale for $51 each.

    Heck a lot cheaper then 205/50/15's that I got for the other hobby car.

    image.jpeg
    Murray

  19. #4769
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    Where are the G-1 and G-2 grounds? Sometimes my FMV stops for a while then it will start up again. Seems to happen every spring, I usually clean the grounds and make sure the battery is fully charge and it starts again. Never really felt I had found the problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by 320iAman View Post
    ECU-FMV-Lambda Relay

    My FMV started shutting off again, so I wire tested for continuity and voltage all the terminals involved and figured out how it was all working together, I checked G1 and G2 grounds these gave continuity and full voltage, I then checked and cleaned G18 ground, I jumpered the fuel pump relay with 8A fuse and male terminal connections and still it was not running, I changed out the alternator to my rebuilt/remanufactured alternator that I posted here on this site step by step , the armature and stator was not rewound, leave that to a future adventure.. while the fuel pumps were running, I happened to get a hold of the G1 and G2 Ground wires and move them a bit--the FMV turned on.

    Randy
    Murray

  20. #4770
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    1980 BMW 320i E21 M10B18

    Cool

    G1 and G2 are ECU grounds and attached to the back of the cylinder head on one of the bolts holding in the Distributor Flange--The Distributor fits inside the Distributor flange and also the Oil pressure sending unit is screwed into the top of the distributor flange, if motor oil gets on the G1 and G2 terminal rings it will act as an insulator and not conduct Volts/Amps very well,so cleaning these is necessary every now and then.

    The insulation on G1 and G2 is hard due to heat around the ring terminal ends and upward for some distance, so dont move them around a lot,, pull the bolt, wipe off the Bolt hex end , terminal rings and distributor flange surface where the terminal rings make contact with gasoline or acetone, fine sandpaper and wipe off all contact surfaces, then install back , do this with out moving the wires much. The heat from the cylinder head has dried out the insulation making it brittle. G1 and G2 run thru the ECU connector to the ECU pins 5 and 16.

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 03-25-2019 at 03:24 PM.

  21. #4771
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    Randy,

    I followed your directions and found that grounding point did need attention, after sanding the terminals and flange surface and adding a larger washer my buzzing FV is back to normal.
    Thank you for taking the time for writing the how too!

    Quote Originally Posted by 320iAman View Post
    G1 and G2 are ECU grounds and attached to the back of the cylinder head on one of the bolts holding in the Distributor Flange--The Distributor fits inside the Distributor flange and also the Oil pressure sending unit is screwed into the top of the distributor flange, if motor oil gets on the G1 and G2 terminal rings it will act as an insulator and not conduct Volts/Amps very well,so cleaning these is necessary every now and then.

    The insulation on G1 and G2 is hard due to heat around the ring terminal ends and upward for some distance, so dont move them around a lot,, pull the bolt, wipe off the Bolt hex end , terminal rings and distributor flange surface where the terminal rings make contact with gasoline or acetone, fine sandpaper and wipe off all contact surfaces, then install back , do this with out moving the wires much. The heat from the cylinder head has dried out the insulation making it brittle. G1 and G2 run thru the ECU connector to the ECU pins 5 and 16.

    Randy
    Last edited by msiert; 03-30-2019 at 09:06 PM.
    Murray

  22. #4772
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Since I was in the distributor area cleaning up the FV / ECU grounds, I thought I would check the vacuum advance on the distributor.

    After removing the cap, rotor and shield I used a mighty vac pump to see if the advance worked, pump to 5 lbs vacuum and no movement of the lower mechanism, same with 10 lbs of vacuum. It was not working!

    It has been years sense I lubricant the little mesh thingy, so I did with 3 & 1 oil and tried again and nothing.

    Walked away for a bit thinking oh crap don't think they make them anymore and did a Google to see if the vacuum advance is all that critical anyway. Found that it really comes into play at crushing speeds with low load and not having it working was costing me a 3 - 4 miles a gallon.

    Went back to the car and tried again and it worked!!! The 15- 20 minutes that it soaked was enough to free it up. I pull the mesh out and added so more 3 & 1 oil in the shaft direct and put the mesh back and added more oil to that too.

    Now with 5 lbs of vacuum the lower mechanism turned clockwise a bit, at 10 lbs it turned further, 15 lbs turned further still and would stay there till the pressure was released. I repeated this about a dozen times and called the job done.
    Last edited by msiert; 03-31-2019 at 04:21 PM.
    Murray

  23. #4773
    Join Date
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    '79 320i, '76 2002
    Bought a much cleaner shell from an 82 320is partout to throw all of my parts into

    Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by JDTable; 04-01-2019 at 10:05 AM.

  24. #4774
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    Looks nice, I see the side mirrors are folded back, didn't know they could do that?
    Murray

  25. #4775
    Join Date
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    1980 BMW 320i E21 M10B18

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by msiert View Post
    Randy,

    I followed your directions and found that grounding point did need attention, after sanding the terminals and flange surface and adding a larger washer my buzzing FV is back to normal.
    Thank you for taking the time for writing the how too!
    Sure, Glad its back to normal

    Randy

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