What did you do to your e21 today?

[mossberg128i]

Hey everyone,

Below is the link to my new e21 project. I bought it for $450! My first goal is to vinyl wrap it orange. See below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPaKQN5ZPpY

[320iAman]

the 3M welders beanie was out of stock, got a Lincoln welders Fire resistant beanie instead and elite anti flash hood-dual layer with aramid fibers



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Randy

[cgifool]

Last night I realized that there just isn't room for my 16" electric fan and 12"x16" parallel flow condenser to mount properly.. I forgot to leave room for the a/c hose fittings when I measured. So, I went back and measured my original one rather than the space it should go in

Ordered a 14" fan (rated for nearly the CFM as the 16") and a 12x14" parallel flow condenser that should fit better. (Fortunately I can still return the 12x16" one)

Also need to pick up some #4 copper flare seals and a heat bulb clip in order to mount the new expansion valve to the new evaporator.

[cgifool]

tonight I spent a couple hours putting my front end all back together - my mom is in town for only a few more days and was really disappointed to hear she wouldnt get to have a ride (for the second visit in a row).

one great thing, somehow my front bumper is now aligned properly - which is weird, because last time I installed it, I could not get it straight for the life of me.

then, just because I couldnt leave well-enough alone, I took off the aux air slide to see if it's working OK.. been having some issues with too-low idle speed when cold.

But, it seems clean inside, and the little flap thing seemed to move okay when poked... I shot some cleaner through it and wiped off well, now it's sitting in the fridge to see how far it opens up.

getting late, so ill button it back up either way. also need to raise my low-beams a bit, my visibility range at night is dangerously short. IRonically, the high-beams are too high also.

[mossberg128i]

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Vinyl wrapped her orange! Check out part 1 of the youtube video if you have some time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPaKQN5ZPpY

[Retoropak]

Amphenol bulkhead connector for my efi conversion




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[amarino]

Was visiting family for the weekend and drove my E21, and broke it, and fixed it. Was out for a drive and luckily only a block away from home when it died and wouldn't start back up. No spark. After some troubleshooting over the evening and into the next day testing with a different coil and a few different distributors I have lying around the issue turned out to be the Ignition Control Unit. Have a copy of ALLDATA and running though some checks the unit should have continuity (or no resistance) between pin 31 and the bottom of the module / car ground, but my installed module nor the handful of spares that I've collected were they "good".

A quick test with some wire to bridge between the connector ground (pin 31) and the bottom of the module and magically the car started again! Also probably need to get the right thermal paste for that module.

IMG_20170416_101905.jpg

[cgifool]

Received a package from ECS Tuning containing all new hardware for my rear seat belts and rear subframe mount & trailing arm mount replacement.

Also received a new 14" electric fan, potentially downsizing from the 16" one which is a tiny bit too large and doesn't fit very closely.

[320iAman]

Was visiting family for the weekend and drove my E21, and broke it, and fixed it. Was out for a drive and luckily only a block away from home when it died and wouldn't start back up. No spark. After some troubleshooting over the evening and into the next day testing with a different coil and a few different distributors I have lying around the issue turned out to be the Ignition Control Unit. Have a copy of ALLDATA and running though some checks the unit should have continuity (or no resistance) between pin 31 and the bottom of the module / car ground, but my installed module nor the handful of spares that I've collected were they "good".

A quick test with some wire to bridge between the connector ground (pin 31) and the bottom of the module and magically the car started again! Also probably need to get the right thermal paste for that module.

IMG_20170416_101905.jpg

I have a test kit that tests these modules, they are rpm sensitive faster they get a signal from distributor , the faster the transistor(acting like a switch or points) shuts off the coil and induces spark, so long as it clean it wont issue, heat sink compound is for CPU's that get really hot, wont hurt to put a dab on.

Randy

[amarino]

I have a test kit that tests these modules, they are rpm sensitive faster they get a signal from distributor , the faster the transistor(acting like a switch or points) shuts off the coil and induces spark, so long as it clean it wont issue, heat sink compound is for CPU's that get really hot, wont hurt to put a dab on.

Randy

I'm interested in what or how that test kit works? Any pics or more info you can dig up on it? This is what I was following for testing the module. 3. is the one that seemed to be the problem.
2017-04-17_104138.png

[cgifool]

esty to the rescue!!

as suggested on this forum I contacted esty to see if she had any scraps of carpet matching my holey rear deck panel, and she totally came through for me!!

check it out.. I may not even bother trimming the piece to fit any better for a while, its barely noticeable even just laying on there, not trimmed to fit.

maybe if I spill coffee on the new piece I can make it match the old.

before

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after

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[hotdish]

I replaced my windshield washer pump. New one is a different shape, but at least in plugs in and works. I might have to get creative to mount it.

It appears that the passenger side washer nozzle is clogged, but one is better than nothing.

[epmedia]

I replaced my windshield washer pump. New one is a different shape, but at least in plugs in and works. I might have to get creative to mount it.

It appears that the passenger side washer nozzle is clogged, but one is better than nothing.

poke the holes with a strand of wire

[320iAman]

I'm interested in what or how that test kit works? Any pics or more info you can dig up on it? This is what I was following for testing the module. 3. is the one that seemed to be the problem.
2017-04-17_104138.png

Kal Equip made by Actron made in USA $25---One here, you owe me one... , tests ignition chips, coil output and so forth.

s-l1600ae.jpgs-l1600s.jpg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kal-Equip-KV...cAAOSwHptY9p~w



Randy

[msiert]

Saw two quarter size oil drops under the old girl yesterday morning and decided it was time to clean up the crud under the engine and tranny to start looking for the leak. I suspect the lower timing case is the main problem but I do have a very small leak at the front crank seal.

[cgifool]

Over the last two nights I did an R&R of my wiper linkage and blower fan. My wipers were none too fast, and the wiper post grommets were both disintegrated. It was mostly a real pain, lots of pilates-style positions while finagling the stuff around. Cleaned it all well and regreased the linkage, replaced the grommets. got it working a bit smoother and easier now. All thats left is reconnecting the motor to the linkage and putting the big metal cover back on. LOVING my 1/4" cordless impact.

Also, today I ordered some digital manifold gauges, a nitrogen regulator, and hoses I'll need for leak testing the a/c hoses. I'll still need a vacuum pump, just trying to space out the purchases a little.

[cgifool]

Today at lunch while waiting for the exterminator I finished reinstalling the wiper motor, wipers, sheet metal bits, and cowl seal.

Resynchronizing the wipers was a piece of cake - turn the wipers on, turn them off (returns motor to home position). Then install the wiper linkage crank so it's "straight", eg, right at the point where the linkage is about to turn around and raise the wipers again. Finally, install and tighten the wiper arms so they are in the proper "down" position.

Testing shows a big improvement!

Wiper movement is no longer "jerky" or "cranky"-sounding, very smooth and quiet now. The motor and mechanism are all secure (but still compliant), And the whole area looks nice now, clean and nice but not refinished.

Still need to fix my intermittent wiper relay, probably just dirty contacts.

Today I ordered replacement outer door window seals (the thin black strip along the bottom of the window on the outside), as well as a new hood ground strap and valve cover ground strap.

Yesterday I found a working driver-side electric flag mirror (WITH rubber gasket) on ebay for $150 and purchased it with little regret. (I have a non-functional one already but still had not been able to find the rubber gasket, which is different from the manual flag mirror).

[msiert]

Found, a quick way to stop an oil leak......unplug the crank vent! It stopped the front crank seal leak cold.

I also found another leak at the valve cover where the upper timing chain cover meets the head, the timimg cover was an 1/64" to 1/32" taller then the head, plus the new upper chain cover gasket was almost a 1/16" short from hitting the top of the cover. A little dab of RTV Blue under the valve cover gasket at that joint stopped that leak.

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Below is the slime that clogged the vent tube on the valve cover. The first pick is the slime coming out of the breather housing in the valve cover after I put some mineral spirits it it to clean int out.
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[cgifool]

Adjusted my valves because they seemed too noisy, but they were all right at spec (0.010).. Didn't check the adjusters for wear. They aren't too loud outside the car either. Maybe just the fact that my firewall sound insulation is all gone, and the a/c console out currently?

Unfortunately something's wrong with my diagnostic connector, so bumping the motor over with it was out, so I ended up having to drain and remove the radiator in order to get enough room to turn the crank with a wrench.

I also removed the old thermostat, which revealed (as I suspected) a 71 degree unit, which might explain why my car was a little slow to warm up. In a past life this car had overheating issues, but it sure doesnt anymore!

Anyhow, that was a few days ago, tonight, after I cleaned out the remains of the black silicone slathered all over, I put it all back together with a new 80 degree tstat, mostly so it'll be driveable for date night tomorrow

[SilverPuddle]

Adjusted my valves because they seemed too noisy, but they were all right at spec (0.010).. Didn't check the adjusters for wear. They aren't too loud outside the car either. Maybe just the fact that my firewall sound insulation is all gone, and the a/c console out currently?

I've always gap mine between .06/.08, I'm not sure about the spec you are quoting.

[OLD MAN]

I've always gap mine between .06/.08, I'm not sure about the spec you are quoting.

I have always heard .06" for intake and .08" for exhaust also. ? Could be wrong.

[cgifool]

I've always gap mine between .06/.08, I'm not sure about the spec you are quoting.

I googled around for "m20 valve clearance" and found a few threads, then I looked at Haynes and (finally) the blue BMW book, all seemed to agree on 0.25mm (0.0098 in). Next time maybe I'll try .008.

Today when I started it up I listened as it warmed up and from outside the car (hood open) the valves didn't seem noisy at all. Maybe it really is just the lack of sound insulation that makes it louder.

[msiert]

Changed out the seal beam headlamps and installed some used h4's and h1's. The first pic is the difference between the sealed beam (right) and the h4 (left). I believe they came from a E30 and are 55 watts.

[cgifool]

I've been noticing a light knocking sound that gets more noticeable on acceleration, and been telling myself it couldn't be rod knock. But, the more I google the subject and listen to videos of rod knocks the more I think this is what it is. It's not loud enough to convince me of a spun bearing, but I do seem to recall a silvery sheen in the oil when I first changed it..

Something especially annoying about this is I already had the oil pan off a couple months ago to replace the leaky oil pan gasket. Guess its time to do it again...

Also, I'm thinking I will probably need to inspect all the journals before ordering, just in case there's any scoring on the crank

The car has 220000 km indicated, no idea if it's accurate.

[Bonsaibacker]

CGI- That's rough. As much as you have done for that car and this is how it repays you... Hoping it is resolved as easily as possible so that you can go back to enjoy driving it.