Hey guys. I got a '01 750iL that's driving me crazy. Hopefully someone can chime in w/ some wisdom or advice here. Over the past few weeks, SEVERAL times, I've had the following happen.
- Insert the key
- Turn the key to Accessory. All dash lights & accessories work.
- When I come to continue turning the key further to the crank position, the key will NOT turn that far - literally. Ie, I can't even get the key into the cranking position.
This problem's been intermittent. Sometimes it only happens for 3 or 4 tries, and after that, all of a sudden, I can turn all the way, crank, and she fires right up. Other times I've been stranded for over half an hour, and I simply can't get far enough to crank the car.
The car's been at BMW for two weeks straight TWICE now, and they couldn't replicate the problem, nor could they diagnose it. I've tried different keys, and the prob. has happened with every key I have. The dealership has absolutely no idea; the Shop Foreman suggested we try changing out the ignition, but we'd be guessing at best. And I'm not too excited at paying based on pure guessing.
So at this point, I'm takin the car back home now in hopes the problem becomes bad enough so they can replicate & diagnose it. But it's pretty annoying not being sure if you're gonna be able to fire up your car in the morning or after work etc.
Anyone ever heard of this typa problem? Any advice?
TIA!
try shaking the wheel, maybe the steering lock mechanism is catching or something.
Good and simple thought, but yea, the steering lock def. wasn't locked.
I still agree. Shake the wheel. I know its not locked when the key is in the cylinder...
but shake the wheel and jiggle the key.
if that works it probably needs a new ignition cylinder.....not the switch.
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Ok so it happened again today. I was mistaken; the key DOES go all the way to the end; it's just that the car doesn't even try to crank at that point.
You know how when you pass the Acc position, the ignition cylinder itself takes over cranking the car, then returns the key to the neutral position once the engine has started? Well, that doesn't happen when I have the problem. You can turn the key all the way to the end without any assistance from the ignition cylinder. And nothing happens. No cranking, nada. And after 20 min or so of trying over and over, it'll crank and start, but STILL without assistance from the ignition cylinder (ie the key turns allll the way to the end, then the engine will crank and start).
replace the iggy switch and cylinder
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Is there a way to test it to make sure?
Have you checked your car batteries voltage? There can be plenty of reserve power to illumninate the dash and minor stuff...but not enough power to start the car. And when the auto start feature fails...one of the reasons that happens is due to not enough juice from the battery.
If you do a search of this forum (or youtube)...you can find a video by Edwin (Homeraass on youtube) that shows how to UNLOCK the instrument cluster so you can perform TEST 9.
Next time your car won't start, immediately go to TEST 9 and see what the car's battery voltage is.
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That's the funny part; the battery tested as needing to be replaced not once, but TWICE. Once at a high end service shop (works on BMWs, Porsches, etc), and the second time was by a BMW Dealership. Unfortunately, it was a different BMW dealership that had replaced the battery less than 2 yrs ago. So I took it back to that dealership that had originally replaced the battery, along with BOTH battery test reports, showing the failed test. And guess what? They said they tested the battery and it's just fine...so they won't replace it.
Ok, so we changed out the ignition switch, cylinder, and lock. And the prob. happened AGAIN, exactly has it typically happens. Always starts in the morning, but when you drive it around for a bit (errand), park it, and come back, you ain't goin NOWHERE.
So I took it BACK to the stealership, and they're saying it's prob. the starter now, to the tune of > $1000. Man I love this car lol.
No way the starter can be bad when it starts cold!!
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Well I got both the last tech who was workin on my car tellin me he thought it sounded like the starter was givin out, and the Service Manager sayin the same (after I had a talk w/ him, given my concern we're gonna keep on changin stuff w/o a definitive diagnosis)
I've seen starters that quit when they absorb engine heat. Some American cars had issues with this maybe Ford. You usually at least hear a clunk or some noise from the solenoid. Depending on the year and production date of the car there were some DME programming issues with starters. I believe it's the ones with auto start. They would just not crank at all then work fine. Check your connections at the battery and starter first. There is also a positive battery cable junction block at the front sub-frame that can corrode.
Also try tapping (a little bit more like whacking) the starter with a wrench or a hammer while someone tries to crank the engine. If it cranks while tapping, then your starter is kaput.
Although removing the starter is not a very difficult DIY, your Indi can remove it and it can be tested for free at O'Reilly's. If the selenoid is gone, you can find a remanufactured on Auto Zone or O'Reilly's by a fraction that price. Have they check the rely?
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