Another quick note for others to read.
If you reset your service light using the "paper clip" shorting out Terminals 7 and 19 on the DLC, make sure you use some white-out paint to mark these terminals because the number letters are very very small, and it is very easy to make a mistake.
This fellow made a mistake shorting out the wrong terminals and it cost him thousands of dollars!
2000 528i will not start after attempting to reset oil service light
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=585687
I need to clarify the steps. This is the sequence that I do:
1. First, open the OFH Cap (36mm socket) and lift the cap up to drain the oil inside the OFH. The OFH itself has about 0.8 qts or so.
- This step allows oil to drain down the sump.
- It will take about 30 seconds to empty the OFH.
- Now change the oil filter and set the cap down loosely to cover the OFH (to avoid debris, bugs from falling inside!).
* I do this step because I "prime" the system.
* If you don't believe in "priming", then tighten the cap at this stage.
2. Drain the oil as mentioned (17mm), it will take some 5 min. to completely drain the sump.
Then re-install the drain plug.
3. Now, if you believe in "priming", open the cap and pour fresh oil into the OFH until it fills about 3/4.
- Oil will drain down the crank case but it drains slowly, this allows you to install the Oil Filter (with 36mm socket). Once it stops, snug it a bit then stop. No need to go to 25 Nm.
Well I had some extra time today to make an E39 M54 oil change video DIY, and this is the best place to share it:
https://youtu.be/nPbJj58Y4hg?list=PL...Cr7w62HX3fXn9R
One more way to change oil in 15 minutes without crying...
Buy an oil extractor from someone (I got mine from Bavauto.com 80$), totally worth every penny, as it can siphon any liquid from any where the little tube can reach, which can fit in your dipstick hole all the way into the sump of your engine so they can pretty much fit anywhere... Anyway once you have that, you won't need to pull the drain plug but every 30,000 miles or so, to make sure there isn't any plastic in the bottom of your pan, but that's better done by pulling the entire pan anyway...
With oil hot*** it's as easy as pulling the dipstick out, loosening the oil filter housing, pull the filter, maybe parking on slight incline such that the dipstick, the bottom of the dipstick most importantly, is under as much oil as Possible. i.e. M62 dipsticks go down to the front of the car, where as M 54 dipsticks, although pulled more or less from the front of the car, dipped into the side of the motor closest to the firewall so, pointed slightly uphill for M54 type configurations, slightly downhill for M 62 configurations, and flat level ground for anything in question or in the middle... this is best done and highly recommended to do while the oil is hot, five minutes or so after driving to let it drain into the sump...pump the extractor about 10 times and it will fill up with all your oil in minutes (it holds about 7 quarts so you might need to dump to make a little room for the oil in bigger V8 configs), the other good thing about this is, that once the oil comes out it sits nicely in your extractor until you decide to pour it into another container for disposal... You can swap out the oil filter while the extractor is filling up... Refill with appropriate amount of oil and you're on your way... No jack-stands, no jacking, no drain plugs, no laying on your back on the ground, no pain in the neck, very easy to do... And the extractor is good for many different types of liquid removal such as overfill of the cooling system, flushing of the power steering system, and if you're in a really tight squeeze, you could siphon somebodies gasoline out of their car, which I do not recommend as it is illegal and very sleazy but there you go... Best $80 I ever spent
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