BMW E36 steering column lowering

**S1Driver** · 05-27-2010, 06:14 AM

What's up people? I need your help to find information that I read before on how to lower the steering column now that I'm sitting so low in the car. I really can't remember where it was in this forum or maybe even an article like pelican parts but it had a complete guide with photos. I just remember that I have to drill the anti-theft shear-bolts and then it was either drilling new holes or maybe just buying standard longer bolts which will let me drop the steering wheel a bit more. Either way everything was mentioned there. I really appreciate your help even if you just can describe me the correct procedure.

**Brent 930** · 05-27-2010, 06:21 AM

I'm pretty sure you will have to remove the shear bolts for the column. Then use longer bolts and add nuts to lock it down where you want, but you won't be able to drop it but so far because of the spherical plastic joint and the angle for the bolts to still line up. You will need to loosen the steering shaft guibo before doing so. That will also be a limiting factor in how much you can lower it so you still have enough splines to hold onto.

**MasterKwan** · 05-27-2010, 09:40 AM

Hmm I'd like to do this too. I feel like a child driving my car now.

**szed** · 05-27-2010, 11:24 AM

You need x2 3/4 length, 3/4in OD, 5/16 ID aluminum spacers. McMaster-Carr p/n: 92510A804 and 45-50mm length M8 1.25 bolts.

Have fun removing the security/shear bolt. That was a pain in the a**. I had to weld a hex head bolt to it.

**Michael9218** · 05-27-2010, 03:28 PM

I did this recently and it is fairly simple to drop the steering column a modest amount. I dropped mine about a quarter of an inch. I found the easiest way to remove the security bolts was by using a chisel and striking the bolt head at an angle. I tried a drill and tap, but had no luck with that. After you remove the security bolts replace with longer hex head bolts and spacers.

**Brent 930** · 05-27-2010, 03:44 PM

Are you guys sitting low enough that after you lower the column you still have full view of the cluster?

**mdadgar** · 05-27-2010, 05:03 PM

Originally Posted by Brent 930

Are you guys sitting low enough that after you lower the column you still have full view of the cluster?

No.

But I have an AIM dash so the cluster is just a mounting point for that.

- Mark

**S1Driver** · 07-02-2010, 10:57 AM

Guys thank you so much for the replies. Szed the technical info helped me a lot. Now let me explained what happened. I bought the M8 bolts and armed with a chisel and a saw tried to make a canal for a flat headed screw driver to get in. I really don't know how you guys did it with a chisel but mine won't budge. With the screw driver inside it just try to eat the head away rather than turning it. Unfortunately I realized there is no other way than welding it. This is why it took me long to reply. I was busy plus I don't have a welder so 3 weeks waiting for a friend to turn up. Finally with a breaker bar and 13mm socket the bolts are out. Now I need to figure out the spacers. I haven't undone any other bolts apart from these two and the steering column dropped to my knees. That is obviously A LOT but it puzzled me on your replies why you said it will only drop a little bit. My car is undrivable at the moment so I haven't even turned the steering wheel. Could it be something to do with the positioning angle or teeth in steering rack as you put it? You know some photos on the spacers would be helpful. Those are the only thing left to do before I decide on the perfect position.

**szed** · 07-02-2010, 04:44 PM

I don't know if this helps any but these are the spacers from McMaster Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#92510a804/=7sftlk

I can try to get a photo for you on Tuesday if you'd like. But I was only able to fit a 3/4 inch long spacer. Maybe a 7/8 in.

**S1Driver** · 07-02-2010, 06:07 PM

Oh nice, I was just thinking to make a spacer out of a strong pipe. The sizes are really confusing me I only understand metric. Am I rite that you spacer is 3/4 inch = 1.90cm and 7/8 inch = 2.20cm which is really small to be honest. Are you sure 7/8 is the max? I think it should be able to get twice the size but unless I lift the car and try the steering I would just assume. Some photos of your spacers would be great szed. It will save me time experimenting.

**eye145** · 07-02-2010, 07:56 PM

I have always used a dull chisel to catch the edge of the shear bolt and knock it counter clockwise to break it free, once broken loose they can spin out by hand

You may want to think about removing your steering lock while your at it...
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...g+lock+removal

**ZimDoc** · 07-02-2010, 08:42 PM

Here is a BMW part that is a alum spacer that drops it down perfect to even fit the stock dash and lower panel.

72 11 8 187 601 - 2x
You will need to buy new bolts that are longer by measuring the old bolts and spacers then adding the two together....

Also you can adjust the column left to right by sliding it with the bolts loose.

**szed** · 07-02-2010, 10:50 PM

Originally Posted by S1Driver

Oh nice, I was just thinking to make a spacer out of a strong pipe. The sizes are really confusing me I only understand metric. Am I rite that you spacer is 3/4 inch = 1.90cm and 7/8 inch = 2.20cm which is really small to be honest. Are you sure 7/8 is the max? I think it should be able to get twice the size but unless I lift the car and try the steering I would just assume. Some photos of your spacers would be great szed. It will save me time experimenting.

Correct. And yes that was the maximum that I could lower the column. 3/4in is perfect for me though. I'm running a 350mm Momo steering wheel and the top of the wheel is about level with the dash. But I mean if you can lower it even further and it suits your driving position, by all means go for it.

**99MPower** · 07-03-2010, 01:45 AM

I lowered mine pretty significantly. Just a bunch of washers, and longer bolts.

Used a dremel with cutting wheel for the security bolts, and came off like butter.

Was perfect

**Motomeister13** · 08-05-2012, 04:39 PM

I was thinking of drilling holes in teh head, and using an EZ out. Are they in there super tight, or with factory thread lock?

Thank you,

Rich

**M3 Euro LTW** · 08-06-2012, 05:39 PM

Though not common in the US, there were E36s that came in with the adjustable steering column, and once and a while these parts pop up on ebay.

I know for sure many early E36 M3's came in with the part.

(+1) for the Dremel cutting wheel and slotting the bolt.

In this case, it really is handy to have a screwdriver with the shaft sporting a machined shape for a wrench so you can apply some serious torque to the bolt.

(Snap-on's have that machined in for example)

**jakermac** · 08-06-2012, 07:59 PM

My US market 93 325is has tilt steering.

**ZimDoc** · 08-06-2012, 09:41 PM

Originally Posted by jakermac

My US market 93 325is has tilt steering.

Early production 95's (Build date 94') is the last year E36's had tilt steering.

**Motomeister13** · 08-07-2012, 08:12 AM

My car has the factory tilt wheel. Is the lowering procedure the same?

Thank you,

Rich

**99MPower** · 08-07-2012, 08:06 PM

Originally Posted by Motomeister13

My car has the factory tilt wheel. Is the lowering procedure the same?

Thank you,

Rich

never seen one, but I would assume that the mounting would be the same.

**S50ti** · 08-07-2012, 10:01 PM

Not sure what the status of your interior is, but when I removed the stock seat belts, the rod that the bottom of the front belts slide on is held in place by an aluminum spacer. I cut that spacer in half to make 2 and used those to drop my column.

**Evice** · 08-19-2012, 08:33 AM

Wow what a b!tch to take the bolt off...But finally 1 of them is out! I made a cut with dremel on the head of the bolt and banged the mofo out with a chisel to set it break free. Then you can actually remove it with fingers..as other people said

Words of wisdom.. DO NOT force your new bolt in if it gets stuck while torquing.. Story below;

Well I took the fracture bolt out, and wanted to put my hex head 5/16 bolt in...1st couple turns went smoothly, then all of a sudden I felt stuckness..Dumb me, thinking that threads started actually catching the metal... I forced it...Bamm! Bolt suddenly went FREEE!! Neither I can take it out, nor screw it in...After spending 1h trying to understand wtf has happened due to roll cage and seat still in place and working like a contortionist under the steering wheel, had to take the instrument cluster out to see better...Apparently, the casing around the nut popped, and resulted in a bolt that has a stuck nut freely spining.. The metal that holds the nut in place (encasing it) actually popped up with the force of the torque that was putting on the bolt and nut bent open the casing, and let the nut FREE.

After seeing this; I pulled the whole metal casing backwards to expose the nut, then put a needle nose in, and held the nut tight so that I can torque it enough to get it unstuck. It almost felt like cross-threaded and got stuck...Now; I do not know why the heck my 5/16 bolt isn't screwing in properly..Nut seems fine, it freely screws on the fracture bolt, no sign of damage.. But it doesn't fit on the sh!tty lowe's 5/16 1.25 bolts...May be wrong pitch..SOB.

I marked the casing that popped free on the OPs picture.

**BANKAIm3** · 04-09-2014, 03:44 AM

Originally Posted by Evice

Wow what a b!tch to take the bolt off...But finally 1 of them is out! I made a cut with dremel on the head of the bolt and banged the mofo out with a chisel to set it break free. Then you can actually remove it with fingers..as other people said

Words of wisdom.. DO NOT force your new bolt in if it gets stuck while torquing.. Story below;

Well I took the fracture bolt out, and wanted to put my hex head 5/16 bolt in...1st couple turns went smoothly, then all of a sudden I felt stuckness..Dumb me, thinking that threads started actually catching the metal... I forced it...Bamm! Bolt suddenly went FREEE!! Neither I can take it out, nor screw it in...After spending 1h trying to understand wtf has happened due to roll cage and seat still in place and working like a contortionist under the steering wheel, had to take the instrument cluster out to see better...Apparently, the casing around the nut popped, and resulted in a bolt that has a stuck nut freely spining.. The metal that holds the nut in place (encasing it) actually popped up with the force of the torque that was putting on the bolt and nut bent open the casing, and let the nut FREE.

After seeing this; I pulled the whole metal casing backwards to expose the nut, then put a needle nose in, and held the nut tight so that I can torque it enough to get it unstuck. It almost felt like cross-threaded and got stuck...Now; I do not know why the heck my 5/16 bolt isn't screwing in properly..Nut seems fine, it freely screws on the fracture bolt, no sign of damage.. But it doesn't fit on the sh!tty lowe's 5/16 1.25 bolts...May be wrong pitch..SOB.

I marked the casing that popped free on the OPs picture.

I am about to do this as well... I just want to get a something straight.
In this picture, you are using what looks like aftermarket nuts with your extended bolts. Is this only because you broke the casing? The longer M8 bolts "should" just thread into an already existing nut/casing right?

**NeilM** · 04-09-2014, 07:56 AM

Originally Posted by BANKAIm3

I am about to do this as well... I just want to get a something straight.
In this picture, you are using what looks like aftermarket nuts with your extended bolts. Is this only because you broke the casing? The longer M8 bolts "should" just thread into an already existing nut/casing right?

He keeps referring to 5/16" bolts when they're supposed to be M8...?

Neil