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Thread: HowTo-> Interior: Fix failed seat cables, Twisted seat fix

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    708
    My Cars
    1996 BMW 740iL

    HowTo-> Interior: Fix failed seat cables, Twisted seat fix

    This fix will fix the cables in the seats that usually get loose overtime due to the rubber expanding/contracting, thus getting loose in the motor.

    It's the same way if any of the other seat cables fail. I did the same on the headrest cable and the seatback cable and it works flawlessly. No need to cut or remove the cable, etc.

    Tools needed: wrench to remove bolts, lighter (BBQ lighter works perfectly), and ice cubes

    Determine which side on the motor does not move the cable by moving the seat around with the switch and feeling the cable. Feel the other cables to determine how it feels before feeling the cable. You should feel nothing.






    Push it in:


    Ice cube it to make it hard:


    Here's the headrest:





  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    1,332
    My Cars
    1992 750il / 1991 560 SE

    E32 - 2019 update - twisted seat back fix - new tips

    So there are a few threads about fixing the E32 twisted seat issues. Obviously this crosses other models too. In short the sheathing over the cables seems to swell, maybe? This causes the drive flex cable (a square cable) to effectively shorten and slip out of the drive motors. I wont go into more detail than that, its all been covered on how to shorten the sheathing and resolve this. With my 1992 750iL now sold, I wanted to fix a few things before the new owner took possession. The seats always looked like a big project because every write-up I found involved removing the seats.

    Passenger side:
    On my US left-hand-drive build the passenger side was pretty easy. Simply adjust the seat back so its properly aligned side to side and then move the entire seat backwards and then front end all the way up. From here, it is really easy to remove the screws holding the motor and pull the cable out. First locate the drive cable to the motor for the side that is not working. Odds are its the outside part of the seat, against the B pillar. The cables run down and to the back of the seat into rather large castings. You can not miss then, one on each side. If you follow it back to the front you will find that the forward most motor operates the seat back. Simply remove one, loosen the other or remove both short course thread screws. This give the motor some play and you can pull the cable out. The metal cap has a slight lip, this lip is what you want to get past the metal mounts which double as a catch for that lip to keep the cable in the motor. Once removed, repair and work the cable back into place.

    Driver side:
    Really the same as the passenger side and I found the the same side of the seat back was the issue, so the right back side (as if you were sitting in it). The screws will be longer this time and there are three connectors in the way. Disconnect the connectors. Then you can slide the connectors out of the plastic bracket and move them out of the way. The connectors have a small "lever" that holds them in place which you move to the side, the the connector slides up. Look at an empty slot and you will see what I mean. On this side the seat back motor is the SECOND from front. Like the passenger side, there are two motors very close to each other. Other than the annoying connectors in the way, its again pretty straight forward.

    But here is pro tip to REALLY make this job easier. You can remove the seat frame connectors. They first one is a little tricky until you figure them out. Getting then back in is not super easy, use some lubricant. Basically there is a small hook tab on one side. You can use a pliers to rotate it into view. You need to push this gently inward as you pull this thing from the other side. It will pop right out.
    Install is trickier since you have to align the seat. Keep in mind the upper "rail" attached to the seat freely moves, so dont panic when you go to put these back in if things dont line-up. Do one side at a time. I simply pushed them in by hand as I shook the seat around until they started/aligned. If they are old, you may again have to push that tab in for proper insertion.
    This made access to the motors 100x easier. Although for the passenger side I did not do this, only the driver side.

    Attachment 651642
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    ______________________________
    1992 750iL

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,655
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    more links
    BMW E32, E34 Headrest Repair for FREE... 735i, 740i, 750il, 535i, 540i https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4pcjV9WUls

    seat cables fix https://www.odometergears.com/howto/...Cables_Fix.pdf

    Easiest to fix the seat is the same like the headrest fix, you will need a 1/4" piece of metal coat hanger...it will be inserted into the motor housing where the end of the cable goes. see below:

    Electric headrest fix - the coat hanger trick
    Actually, the headrests are easier to fix than the infamous "seat twist" problem. You can perform the same type of "cable shortening" as in the seat twist repair...or you can do the really simple "coat hanger" kludge...

    The coat hanger repair:
    You will need a 1/4" piece of metal coat hanger...it will be inserted into the motor housing where the end of the cable goes. What it does is center the cable within the sheathing which has stretched over time.

    1. Remove the rear seat cover
    2. You will see the headrest motor mounted on a small shelf on the right side (of the passenger seat...I'm not sure if it's on the left side on the driver's seat...never had the cover off of it)...
    3. take a pair of pliers and "gently fold back the metal tangs that secure the leather, near the headrest motor. You can undo the screws that hold the motor to the shelf...but this is a bear and it's easier just to remove the whole little shelf. If you pull the leather back far enough...you will see that the shelf is held on by two screws on the side that faces the B pillar...undo these screws and remove the shelf & motor as one unit.
    4. with the motor & shelf removed...undo the screws that hold the motor to the shelf (see red arrows in pic below) and remove the drive cable from the motor.
    5. insert the straight 1/4" of metal coat hanger (or something equivalent) up into the motor, then re-insert the drive cable.
    6. insert your key into the ignition and turn to POS 2 so that you can "TEST" the headrest before reassembling. If it works...just reverse your procedure and remount the motor & shelf to the seat frame, replace the leather, then the seat back.
    http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/headrest2.jpg
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

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