check the driver's side diff outlet. its probably loose because of a bad bearing.
It's most likely the U-joint in the rear driveshaft, and the high vibration has probably trashed the flex coupling (guibo) as well. The trashed flex coupling is the likely culprit of the "clunk" sound when you put the car in gear. Checking the U-joint requires pulling the rear driveshaft.
To remove the rear driveshaft, jack the car up, unbolt the clamps for the exhaust and let it sag down out of the way. You can pull it down pretty far before causing any damage to it. Unbolt the driveshaft on both ends (with the parking brake on) and pull it out. Inspect the U-joint for cracked or missing plastic bushings between the bearing and the body of the U-joint, and move the knuckle in every direction to sense for notchiness. Mine almost made a little click when I did this which let me know it was bad. Also check the rubber flex coupling for cracks/damage. If the rubber on the flex coupling is damage or cracking, save yourself another trip under the car and replace it. I had "Gregory's Fleet Supply" in Virginia Beach, VA send my shaft in for a rebuild. Cost me about $350. Cheaper than anyone online.
Stab in the dark... I'm seeing the exact same symptom in my 1989 325ix. Did anyone pin down a definitive cause & fix for the described vibration?
Also - don't you hate it when you find a thread that exactly describes a situation you're facing, only to get to the end without an answer?
E30 325iC turbo convertible project in progress (updated 12/23/15):
Car fully tuned on completely rebuilt M20 w/forged internals, MLS head gasket
Suspension, brakes, exhaust fully installed
New carpet, custom reupholstered seats installed, door panels painted to match
Custom center console gauge panel installed
Plastic bumper conversion complete, MTech2 front spoiler installed
Rear bumper conversion in progress
Build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...on-engine-swap
My wild guess is to replace the drive shaft for $1,000 however, given all that's wrong with the car and being unable to pinpoint the major vibration problem your conclusion to sell the car is a valid one. I think mounting issues with these cars eventually reach a critical mass and this is what is killing E30's. Nothing lasts forever.
Last edited by JIM1inWisconsin; 04-28-2017 at 09:46 AM.
How much diagnosing have you done? Have you put in new guibos? Have you removed and inspected your driveshaft? Looked at your rear diff mount? Checked the balance of your front tires?
If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...
Update - My vibration problem is solved! Rear driveshaft u-joint was very worn and had a lot of lateral play in the bearings. Local shop put a new u-joint in and balanced the shaft for $140. Also replaced the giubo for $30. So $170 later she's smooth as silk!
E30 325iC turbo convertible project in progress (updated 12/23/15):
Car fully tuned on completely rebuilt M20 w/forged internals, MLS head gasket
Suspension, brakes, exhaust fully installed
New carpet, custom reupholstered seats installed, door panels painted to match
Custom center console gauge panel installed
Plastic bumper conversion complete, MTech2 front spoiler installed
Rear bumper conversion in progress
Build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...on-engine-swap
Bookmarks