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Thread: DIY Supplemental: Crankcase Vent (CCV) Replacement Notes and Photos (97 540i)

  1. #1
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    DIY Supplemental: Crankcase Vent (CCV) Replacement Notes and Photos (97 540i)

    This write-up is meant to supplement this article written for CCV replacement on a 740i M62: Crankcase/Oil Seperator (CCV) (M62)


    1997 540i M62

    Recently my car started exhibiting the classic symptoms of a CCV failure: choppy idle, blue smoke out the exhaust, massive vacuum at the oil filler cap, and dipstick, and a strange whistling, almost spaceship like noise at idle. Breaking the vacuum on the crankcase would immediately make the noise stop.

    Here are the diagrams of the crankcase venting system on the M62 for my car.

    Intake Manifold:http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...37&hg=11&fg=40

    Oil Seperator: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...55&hg=11&fg=15

    Vacuum system: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...02&hg=11&fg=45

    The cover on the back of the intake manifold is the crankcase vent (CCV). Its function seems to be to regulate the amount of vacuum that pulls on the crankcase to evacuate vapors. When it fails, the crankcase will be subject to full manifold vacuum. Massive amounts of oil will be sucked into the intake tract and burned throught the engine. This vacuum leak will cause very rough idle and possibly some engine knock when accelerating. At highway speeds, the problem becomes almost unnoticable.

    I ordered these parts from http://www.autohausaz.com

    11617501563 - Intake Manifold Cover
    11611729728 - Gasket

    Here are some pictures and commentary:

    Original intake manifold rear cover. Note the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line and the coolant line. Both of these will be removed during the replacement.



    The cover removed and the new gasket in place. Note the removed coolant hose and the location of the vent pipe opening within the manifold. The vent pipe is mounted securely and will not move. When you bolt on the new cover, the nipple should slide right in there without issue.

    I had no problem getting a rachet and T30 Torx socket onto these screws. I would recommend replacing them with M6 x 1mm x 25mm socket head cap screws. The Torx screws strip too easily.




    The new cover. When installing the new cover, make sure to grease the connections. The pipe going to the oil seperator (lower right hand corner of the second picture) must be dealt with gently. You don't want to break the top off the oil seperator which is connected to the other end of the tube you are pushing that thing into. Review the Oil Seperator diagram above to understand this.

    FYI all connections to this thing are under full engine vacuum.




    Old cover. The gaskets and diaphrams have completely broken down. It appears that the design of this is for the diaphram to limit or stop vacuum going to the oil seperator under certain circumstances. My guess would be that high vacuum situations such as idle would pull the diaphram/gasket in to block the vacuum.

    Last edited by jamesdc4; 06-10-2010 at 07:56 PM.

  2. #2
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    Beautiful write-up. I just wished the pictures were slightly larger. I haven't seen where anyone have been able to get such clear photos w/o removing the manifold. Great job.

  3. #3
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    When you say you ordered the cover, that means OEM part: 11617501563
    From here:
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...37&hg=11&fg=40

    Which includes some gaskets and o-rings, right?

  4. #4
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    autohanzandfranz FTL.

    The gasket is sold separately Fooljam.

    Manifold cover (CCV)

    http://eactuning.com/parts/product_details/11617501563
    http://eactuning.com/parts/product_details/11611729728

    Quote Originally Posted by cerber View Post


    W0133-1610073 - Intake Manifold Cover

    11611729728 - Gasket
    Where did you get that part number for the mani cover? The correct part for all 540i cars built from 9/98 to 2003 is 11617501563

    Best bet when working on these cars is to use a parts supplier that works with OEM parts and part numbers like I linked above.
    Last edited by e39dream; 04-25-2010 at 01:04 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by e39dream View Post
    autohanzandfranz FTL.

    The gasket is sold separately Fooljam.

    Manifold cover (CCV)

    http://eactuning.com/parts/product_details/11617501563
    http://eactuning.com/parts/product_details/11611729728



    Where did you get that part number for the mani cover? The correct part for all 540i cars built from 9/98 to 2003 is 11617501563

    Best bet when working on these cars is to use a parts supplier that works with OEM parts and part numbers like I linked above.

    Thanks for the links

  6. #6
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    The pictures are one of the primary reasons that I made this post. I used my iPhone which allowed me to get in there deeply. I was curious what the back of the manifold looked like without the cover. It was also helpful knowing the situation with the vent tube in the back of the manifold.

    The cover will come complete ready to bolt on with the exception of the gasket. The realoem diagrams will give you the impression that there are other parts needed. There aren't.

    Sorry about listing the Autohausaz part numbers only. I was too lazy to look up the OEM numbers.

    ~ Chris

  7. #7
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    OP edit the original post w/the correct part #'s so this can potentially be added to the DIY links by a Mod.

  8. #8
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    if you're lazy like me, you don't even have to remove coolant pipe to replace it
    Lazy Saturday drive in my E34: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnzvZgPnOos

  9. #9
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    Pictures enlarged and OEM part number substituted....

    ~ Chris

  10. #10
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    So what are all the parts that are needed? I see the OP said he bought a whole new intake manifold. What should I get really?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by cerber View Post
    This write-up is meant to supplement this article written for CCV replacement on a 740i M62: Crankcase/Oil Seperator (CCV) (M62)


    1997 540i M62

    Recently my car started exhibiting the classic symptoms of a CCV failure: choppy idle, blue smoke out the exhaust, massive vacuum at the oil filler cap, and dipstick, and a strange whistling, almost spaceship like noise at idle. Breaking the vacuum on the crankcase would immediately make the noise stop.

    Here are the diagrams of the crankcase venting system on the M62 for my car.

    Intake Manifold:http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...37&hg=11&fg=40

    Oil Seperator: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...55&hg=11&fg=15

    Vacuum system: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...02&hg=11&fg=45

    The cover on the back of the intake manifold is the crankcase vent (CCV). Its function seems to be to regulate the amount of vacuum that pulls on the crankcase to evacuate vapors. When it fails, the crankcase will be subject to full manifold vacuum. Massive amounts of oil will be sucked into the intake tract and burned throught the engine. This vacuum leak will cause very rough idle and possibly some engine knock when accelerating. At highway speeds, the problem becomes almost unnoticable.

    I ordered these parts from http://www.autohausaz.com

    11617501563 - Intake Manifold Cover
    11611729728 - Gasket

    Here are some pictures and commentary:

    Original intake manifold rear cover. Note the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line and the coolant line. Both of these will be removed during the replacement.



    The cover removed and the new gasket in place. Note the removed coolant hose and the location of the vent pipe opening within the manifold. The vent pipe is mounted securely and will not move. When you bolt on the new cover, the nipple should slide right in there without issue.

    I had no problem getting a rachet and T30 Torx socket onto these screws. I would recommend replacing them with M6 x 1mm x 25mm socket head cap screws. The Torx screws strip too easily.




    The new cover. When installing the new cover, make sure to grease the connections. The pipe going to the oil seperator (lower right hand corner of the second picture) must be dealt with gently. You don't want to break the top off the oil seperator which is connected to the other end of the tube you are pushing that thing into. Review the Oil Seperator diagram above to understand this.

    FYI all connections to this thing are under full engine vacuum.




    Old cover. The gaskets and diaphrams have completely broken down. It appears that the design of this is for the diaphram to limit or stop vacuum going to the oil seperator under certain circumstances. My guess would be that high vacuum situations such as idle would pull the diaphram/gasket in to block the vacuum.

    Really great write up buddy!!! IlL be doing this soon within a week or two. I have knocing during acceleration sometimes high oil consumption bad miles per gallon and smoke on start up occasionally.Did you notice power increase in the lower rpms?

  12. #12
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    My brother (12CoolDude) is working on this project right now and had some info. to add about the Husky Pro Ratchet part # contained in the DIY hyperlinked in the OP.
    Quote Originally Posted by 12CoolDude
    I went to aquire the Husky Pro ratchet 66604 and it doesn't exist, which means the recommended tool number is quite possibly incorrect. If you can edit and add the correct part number, that would be helpful for anyone else who finds the search for the obsolete part number frustrating. I believe the new number for the correct tool is #165152, which is a kit with bit drivers (no T-20 torx though) as opposed to just the tool. Anyway, I thought it was relevent since I wasted 30-minutes in Home Depot looking for the part...
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 01-31-2011 at 04:23 PM.

  13. #13
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    ok so i replaced my CVV and im still getting the 93 tank venting code... i looked at the cover and im thinking i didnt put it on right cause it has a little gap between the Cover and the back of the manifold. Im wondering if i need to adjust the float thing in the middle before installing the cover? Should the cover sit totally flat? Any help would be great.

  14. #14
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    Thank you >cerber<

    just had this fail on my 97MY, and yes I was convinced this was terminal. Weird noise + blue smoke had me thinking liner / piston ring? At 179k miles this means scrap time. However, thanks to this post [and Youtube link] all fixed.
    Those T30 torques are a complete swine. I needed a mate as 3 hands required. 2 to allign the torques bit and hold, third hand to apply load to ratchet. Even with several alignment checks with lamp and mirror you have to be perfectly square or they will round-off. Managed to do it without removing the cooling hose, there is just enough access. Total time 3.5 hrs and just 30mins to put it all back. Smoke cleared within 50 miles.
    Total [UK] cost for cover/gasket/new fasteners £51 [as of July 2011]
    Thanks again... the internet [and this site] is wonderful thing.

  15. #15
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    With the help of this guide replacing the OSV was easy! And it helped diagnose a problem. I didn't bother with removing the water hose, in the end I didn't need to. Getting the bolts out was a bit of a faff, but they just needed breaking loose. I replaced them in the end and managed to strip one at the very very end when I was just making sure it's all as tight as it should be. Luckly it's one of the top ones so there's enough access if there's ever a need to remove it.

  16. #16
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    I would rather rebuild the front end again, than do this job again. What a huge PITA. 4 stripped torx, looks like I'll have to finish the job today.

  17. #17
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    Awesome thread guys.
    I was able to tackle this project despite recovering from a broken arm. I did strip one of the top torx bolts, but went in there with a reciprocating saw and cut the head off (there was just enough room) and slid the the whole thing off. I was able to hand twist off the remaining threaded shaft.

    New M6's are Sooo much easier to deal with. A must for anyone doing this.

  18. #18
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    Just did this

    So I was getting the P1159 and P1161 codes (if I remember correctly). Anyway, the mechanic wanted $1,000 to replace the CCV via removing the intake manifold. I used this DIY and replaced the CCV myself. Thank you all for the help. It was a PITA. Of course I stripped the bottom-most torx screw but I got it with vice grips. I will put up with a lot of PITA to save $900.

    However, when I was done and reset the codes, they came back after about 75 miles! So I went on a hunt with a can of carb cleaner to find where my leak was. I found it on the the throttle body adapter plate/intake manifold interface. The gasket had failed. I probably didn't need to replace the CCV in the first place but from what I've read, its failure was inevitable. If you have this problem, take a look at the crank case vacuum as described. If it is obvious that that is the problem then go after it. That said, I'm suggesting that if it is not obvious that the CCV has gone out, take a look at other possibilities like the joints and hoses. I love my BMW but I think that the BMW engineers fail completely in their selection of gasket materials and exterior plastic in general. The aforementioned gasket was hard and brittle and had lost all elasticity. It should have lasted longer than 9 years. The same goes for things like the wiper motor cover at the base of the windshield that starts coming apart at 5 years. Planned obsolescent perhaps? Sorry for the long post.
    Last edited by go273rivermiles; 02-03-2012 at 09:58 PM.

  19. #19
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    How long did it take you to replace the CCV?

  20. #20
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    Performing this replacement right now. When I took the cover off the back of the intake, the vent pipe that runs through the intake is now just sitting there. I know it connects to the CCV cover at the back of the engine. Does it connect to anything at the front, or does it just vent to the middle of the intake cavity?

  21. #21
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    Like many, I had to deal with a stripped bolt. My problem-bolt was the lowest-right(passenger) side bolt. At first, I tried an extractor set from Craftsman.
    Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out
    Sears Item# 00952166000 | Model# 52166
    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ku=00952166000

    Those did not work for me. I was able to get the extractor around the bolt head, but couldn't apply enough force to get a solid bite. Even after multiple Macguyverisms, I just couldn't do it. I even tried some tiny/slim locking pliers, but didn't have enough room for proper rotation.

    Luckily, I had a friend with a wide variety of tools who had a similar extractor set, that were actually sockets you put on a ratchet. They were made by Matco. Sorry, I don't recall the exact Matco part number, or size, but looked similar to these: Craftsman 10 pc. Impact Grade Bolt-Out™ Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover
    Sears Item# 00952165000 | Model# 52165
    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0&%20Diesmv=rr

    Using a small stubby ratchet, and really short extension to clear the coolant pipe, he was easily able to break the stripped bolt loose within minutes. This final bolt had plagued me for way too long. I felt very fortunate he had that tool. Otherwise, I was going to just do the whole intake manifold gasket job instead of investing money into more extractor sets that were not guaranteed to work. The car had the intake manifold gaskets done not too long ago, so I was really trying to avoid this route in the first place.

    So I was finally able to take off the OCV unit. While removing it, I loosened the vent pipe out of position. I didn't really have a good idea of how the pipe is held in place, so this alarmed me quite a bit. After all the torment removing the OCV caused, I was not expecting this at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBirchwood View Post
    Performing this replacement right now. When I took the cover off the back of the intake, the vent pipe that runs through the intake is now just sitting there. I know it connects to the CCV cover at the back of the engine. Does it connect to anything at the front, or does it just vent to the middle of the intake cavity?
    You've probably figured this out by now, but I just had to deal with this; and it does indeed connect to a small hole in the front side. When I noticed mine came out of place, I made some futile efforts to line it up into position from the rear. I might be able to do that now that I know how it goes, but there was no chance it was going to happen at the time. Getting it back into place turned out to be quite easy. I just removed the air intake and throttle body. This should give an opening to the front side of the intake manifold. The vent pipe sort of has only one proper way of fitting. The front end of the pipe should fit into a port near the bottom/passenger side corner. I was still somewhat blind to how things were lining up, but being able to hold the pipe from both ends made it doable. If lined up correctly, the back end of the vent pipe should be able pass in and out of the intake manifold opening. For me, the pipe was knocked loose and pushed into the intake manifold. It helped to carefully rotate the pipe until the backend was outside the intake manifold, before lining it up back into place. It also helped to hold the vent pipe from the front side while I pressed the new OCV into place.

  22. #22
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    Hi. First time post so excuse me if I am diving in with too many questions.

    I am also looking to do the replacement but have inspected my CCV and the righthand vaccum nipple is exposed with no hose connected and is not capped either. I have compared mine to the initial pic at the start of the post from Cerber and it seems his vaccum nipple is capped whilst the opposing one has a hose connection.

    I have a 1997 535i here in Australia (same setup to '97 540i). If it is meant to be capped can someone please help with the correct part number? I have the feeling it is 11611437694.

    Also can anyone comment on doing just a diaphram/membrane swap and change instead of the whole cover. I have seen it done on youtube and looks a whole lot easier?

    Thanks

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by doolz View Post
    Hi. First time post so excuse me if I am diving in with too many questions.

    I am also looking to do the replacement but have inspected my CCV and the righthand vaccum nipple is exposed with no hose connected and is not capped either. I have compared mine to the initial pic at the start of the post from Cerber and it seems his vaccum nipple is capped whilst the opposing one has a hose connection.

    I have a 1997 535i here in Australia (same setup to '97 540i). If it is meant to be capped can someone please help with the correct part number? I have the feeling it is 11611437694.

    Also can anyone comment on doing just a diaphram/membrane swap and change instead of the whole cover. I have seen it done on youtube and looks a whole lot easier?

    Thanks
    Yes, that's the part # above for the cap.

    As far as i know, a "membrane" or Pressure regulator valve repair kit is only available for X53 and up models. Illustrated below and clearly differs from the one on the E39.

    E53, E60, E63, E64, E65, E66, E70
    part#11127547058


    E39:



    Here's a short video about doing just the "membrane":
    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKNeN8tR3wM"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKNeN8tR3wM[/ame]

  24. #24
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    Thanks Doc325i.

    I purchased the vaccum nipple cap on the weekend from the dealer which has plugged that inlet. I put my finger over it when it was going and could feel a sucking vaccum so who knows what was being sucked in through the small hole and how much damage it has done to my ccv.

    I have seen that video link you posted and that is how I am going to replace my ccv I think. Seems a whole lot easier than replacing the whole cover. The only thing that worries my is the condition of the internal gasket and other parts. I guess I am just avoiding tackling those dreaded torx bolts that strip so easily.

    Has anyone tried this method of ccv repair and what was their experience?

  25. #25
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    The space behind the rear cover is limited but with a high quality torx bit and small hands you should be okay. If you fail removing the cap as illustrated in the video(in post #23), at least you'll have a complete new rear cover on hand to complete the repair. Let us know how you make out.

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