After many many months of frustrating issues with my car Iam finally posting up my build thread so the world can see. Before I load up this page with up to date pics , I wanna give a brief description of my set up as it stands.
1998 528i M52b28
Modified ebay manifold (temporary)
Turbonetics T66 turbo
Custom motor mount Bracket
Tial 44mm wastegate
3.5 Aluminum exhaust
Pwr 26x10x3 intercooler
3'' Intercooler pipe
Tial Q bov
Custom fuel rail
M50 intake manifold
Aem Ems
Aem twinfire ignition system
Custom wiring harness Pnp
Uuc oil center
M50 oil filter housing
Things I need:
Boost controller
Mls
Arp studs
Wideband
Clutch
Will post the rest of the pics later. Its taking way to long to upload.
Last edited by boosted 528; 04-24-2010 at 03:26 PM.
I am running a Group Buy on the E Boost 2 Boost controller(http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1441159), also I can help assist you with build.
Sales@icsperformance.com
Last edited by ICS Performance; 04-23-2010 at 05:43 PM.
Very cool, awaiting pics
i REALLY want to see this! Very cool, cant wait for the pics..
Good luck getting it finished up man. These cars are a lot of fun with more power.
Hopefully my clutch issue gets resolved soon and I can have my car running when you are here.
13.239 @ 105.67 with .000 R/T and 1.93 - 60' - 2007 350z - SOLD
Slow in turbo 528i thanks to a poor driver and lots of heat soak (I couldn't figure out how to drive a pucked clutch off the line to save my life).
LM7 swap in progress/paused pending garage remodel.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1660651
Before I get into more details about what i've done to the car so far, I wanna start off by showing everybody why alot of the ebay manifold crack due to heat. You see in the lower pictures that the ebay flange is poorly ported.
So what I ended up doing is marking it
Then using a carbide burr to open it up.
Hopefully that helps out with the flow of the manifold and buys me more time before cracking.
The manifold gaskets are a larger diameter than the actual ports on the head.
A word of Internet Forum wisdom: Disregard any advice that begins with "I've heard..."
97 M3/4 - S54, TRM Coilovers, UUC SSK/Sways/LTW Flywheel
ruh roh
Is it possible that by grinding/porting the runners a bit
that you've thinned the piping/welds,
allowing the manifold to crack earlier?
Not at all. The pipe is welded to the outside of the flange. I grinded away at the inside of the flange itself.
That is correct, but the flange(as seen in the pic) is over extended. I compared it to my oem header and there was a Big differance.
Thanks george for the heads up. I'll keep you posted if I need anything .
2 week ago I had started on my charge pipe. I tired using a 90* bend at the throttle body but the angle was alittle extreme so I didnt feel comfortable leaving it that way (cant really tell in this pic
So chris (So live) advised me to get a tight radius 90* bend. So I orded it.
Being that Iam putting a vband on the bend and my t-body, I had to cut and grind away.
Also last night I was able to finish my intercooler brackets.
Last edited by boosted 528; 04-24-2010 at 04:02 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Ok I need some help guys. Iam trying to remove my fuel rail but im not sure how to disconnect the lines and the harness closet to the firewall. I already have everything else disconnected and ready to go .
Aren't they just push fittings?
dude be careful using a rigid coupler on your piping like that. What made you go with a v-band? Big turbo race cars will run solid piping because they have front plates and rigid engine mounts (read, no flex, none). But our cars are on rubber/urethane and that is going to vibrate a good amount. Hooked up to the composite intake, I'd be a little hesitant. Are you going to use more v-bands? I really wouldn't! (not on the intake). They have NO movement.
Actually I do have another vband. One @ the intake manifold and another half way down the charge pipe. I was actually looking into the wiggins clamp since they allow a little flex, but It was out of my budget (atleast for now).
As far as the fuel line, yes it is a push fitting .Although it just wont disconnect. Iam not sure If iam just doing something wrong or what.
I'd be careful man - silicone would have suited you better. You're going to be putting an awful lot of stress and strain on a rigid coupler. Pretty much everytime you rev and shift and load the motor and unload the motor. Eek!
You usually just push the outter barrel thinger on the fuel line and pull the fitting out.
I tried it that way but it seems who ever touched the car before actually broke one of the tabs. So that plastic piece was just floating around in there. So what would be an alternative way of removing the hose? Cutting the line? Iam not gonna be using it anyway so maybe i should do that. I just need the rail off so I can get my new rail cut and tapped.
Btw, How many feet of fuel line did you need for your car. I might just order it now and get it over with.
Whos doing your tig welding? looks good man. Also, id definatly use a flex bellow coupler or two on the cold side. These car tend to move alot like Jon said. Aluminum VBands dont move at all. Unless you want to do this twice I'd really consider our imput. It will break something somewhere I promise! Or get solid engine and trans mounts.
Vibrant has a product similar to the wiggins if you wanted to go that route:
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...oducts_id=1626
Personally I like that I used a 90 on my throttle body because it allows a lot of flex. If I have trouble keeping it held on I'll use a tight radius 90 welded to the throttle body and a silicone bellows like this:
http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...product=FMB-76
I have the 90 and then where the piece of pipe with my maf in it connect to the piece going to the intercooler (which has a mounting tab holding it in place) there is a straight hump coupler that allows a bit of movement if needed (but will keep the piping mostly straight).
I'd encourage you to add a bellows section (if it were me I'd go this route). Forge has 76 and 80 mm available, the 76 will be good and tight on 3" OD pipe, I have to use silicon spray lube to get my couplers from forge on and off, not so with other brands...
13.239 @ 105.67 with .000 R/T and 1.93 - 60' - 2007 350z - SOLD
Slow in turbo 528i thanks to a poor driver and lots of heat soak (I couldn't figure out how to drive a pucked clutch off the line to save my life).
LM7 swap in progress/paused pending garage remodel.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1660651
Even though I hate couplers, it looks like i'll have to get one huh? Would it be ok if I put it down low (out of sight), on the actual intercooler, or should it be close to the intake manifold?
As far as the welds, a buddy of mine does it all for me . He does some pretty nice work.
The couplers are going to be necessary - you have no flex. That, or wiggins. But honestly, run couplers. Especially if your budget is an ebay manifold you don't need to spend $1g on wiggins. I would have recommended vbands down low and couplers up high, since the coupler will be the one to let go, at least its easily accessible on the side of the road.
Yea I actually thought about the vanjen clamp and almost bought it until I seen pics of other ppl using them. They take up alot of space with there flanges and in my case there's not enough room. Also in my opinion they only look good when the charge pipe is painted, and I plan on keeping the natural/brushed look.
Well after fighting with the push fittings last night, I finally got it done. I also got the one side of the intercooler piping done. I will go back later on and find a place for the for a hump hose or even solid mounts if I can get them made for a reasonable price.
fab work looks pretty good!
Thanks guys! Maybe i'll have more updates tomorrow when I go pick up my harness from lance ( lance is a tuner that had to re-wire my Aem custom harness). If not then ill definitely have more updates next week when I come back from orlando. In the meantime it would be cool if you guys could give me some ideas on the best way to run the hot side charge pipes.
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