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Thread: M3 side skirt installation DIY??

  1. #1
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    M3 side skirt installation DIY??

    For all you guys that dont have the sport model 325/328 with the lux/twisty M3 skirts, how did you install your after market m3 skirts? whats the best/easiest way?

    thanks

    -Chase

    Powertrain: Big Bore 87mm S50| Boost Logic Gen 2 Mani | BorgWarner S366 | CP 8.5:1 pistons | Eagle Rods | O-Ringed block | Tial 50mm | Precision 46mm | LINK G4 standalone | ZF| F1 stage 3 clutch/15lb ltwfw| UUC Black TM/E| Vorshlag MM's | 3.23LSD w/AKG race bushings| AKG race subframe bushings| 'Bear Motorsports' Re-enforced subframe | Walbro 525lp fp| VPD pulleys| 4'' DP into 3.5 straight pipe"||
    Handling: FK konigsports| '95 M3 strut mounts| Rogue Engineering RSM's| UUC RTAB's| 20mm front spacers| 2915lbs Full interior
    Aesthetics: M3 bumpers| 18''x 8.5/9.5 BBS LMs| ZKW's| 50w 6000k HID| Smoked Corners| 50% wndshld/5% all around| M3 sedan seats F&R| Black headliner| Black/Grey suede door panels| ZHP knob| M3 steering Wheel|

  2. #2
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    seriously?? no one has installed m3 skirts on their non-M??

    Powertrain: Big Bore 87mm S50| Boost Logic Gen 2 Mani | BorgWarner S366 | CP 8.5:1 pistons | Eagle Rods | O-Ringed block | Tial 50mm | Precision 46mm | LINK G4 standalone | ZF| F1 stage 3 clutch/15lb ltwfw| UUC Black TM/E| Vorshlag MM's | 3.23LSD w/AKG race bushings| AKG race subframe bushings| 'Bear Motorsports' Re-enforced subframe | Walbro 525lp fp| VPD pulleys| 4'' DP into 3.5 straight pipe"||
    Handling: FK konigsports| '95 M3 strut mounts| Rogue Engineering RSM's| UUC RTAB's| 20mm front spacers| 2915lbs Full interior
    Aesthetics: M3 bumpers| 18''x 8.5/9.5 BBS LMs| ZKW's| 50w 6000k HID| Smoked Corners| 50% wndshld/5% all around| M3 sedan seats F&R| Black headliner| Black/Grey suede door panels| ZHP knob| M3 steering Wheel|

  3. #3
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    I installed M3 side skirts on my ti. I think I held them in place a figured out how far down the body seam I needed to drill holes. As for the drill sizes, I kept on experimenting with a bigger size until it fit.

    You need all hardware before attempting. I think it was 6 or 7 clips on either side, plus the underside keepers and a couple of screws in the wheel well.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by dano670 View Post
    I installed M3 side skirts on my ti. I think I held them in place a figured out how far down the body seam I needed to drill holes. As for the drill sizes, I kept on experimenting with a bigger size until it fit.

    You need all hardware before attempting. I think it was 6 or 7 clips on either side, plus the underside keepers and a couple of screws in the wheel well.
    thanks man, any pics you can refer to? do I need any adhesive??

    Powertrain: Big Bore 87mm S50| Boost Logic Gen 2 Mani | BorgWarner S366 | CP 8.5:1 pistons | Eagle Rods | O-Ringed block | Tial 50mm | Precision 46mm | LINK G4 standalone | ZF| F1 stage 3 clutch/15lb ltwfw| UUC Black TM/E| Vorshlag MM's | 3.23LSD w/AKG race bushings| AKG race subframe bushings| 'Bear Motorsports' Re-enforced subframe | Walbro 525lp fp| VPD pulleys| 4'' DP into 3.5 straight pipe"||
    Handling: FK konigsports| '95 M3 strut mounts| Rogue Engineering RSM's| UUC RTAB's| 20mm front spacers| 2915lbs Full interior
    Aesthetics: M3 bumpers| 18''x 8.5/9.5 BBS LMs| ZKW's| 50w 6000k HID| Smoked Corners| 50% wndshld/5% all around| M3 sedan seats F&R| Black headliner| Black/Grey suede door panels| ZHP knob| M3 steering Wheel|

  5. #5
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    I don't think I have any pics of the job. I didn't use any adhesive either. The reason why I drilled holes is that 95 ti's had no sideskirts, but 96 and later cars did. If you car already has sideskirts, then I think you can just reinstall them in the same hole. I will be removing a side trim piece of molding tomorrow or the next day (I believe they are the same size hole) and I can measure the diameter.

    If you take the time, figuring it out it really was surprisingly easy. It just takes some courage to start drilling some holes in the side of your car. Also, have a friend to help hold the sideskirt in place when you make the mark.

  6. #6
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    holes are 8.8 mm or .345 inch on the side door protector trim. Don't know if the are they same, but I am guessing BMW probably kept them the same.

  7. #7
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    so on say....a 94 325is...do they just go right over top of the "side skirts" that are on there now???
    because looking at my car....they are molded into the unibody???

  8. #8
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    hey, if you havent attempted this yet. check out this site. it has a great write up.
    http://www.reocities.com/e36rulz/m3s...rtinstall.html

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saucy069 View Post
    hey, if you havent attempted this yet. check out this site. it has a great write up.
    http://www.reocities.com/e36rulz/m3s...rtinstall.html
    Can this be found somewhere?? Link offline

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  10. #10
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    use the wayback machine https://web.archive.org/web/20170602...rtinstall.html
    M3 (M-Tech) side skirts Installation (How-To)
    By: Filip75 (from BimmerForums.com)

    For the installation you will need:
    1. skirt templates (2ea) (should've came with the skirts)
    2. drill (with bits of various sizes)
    3. car jack
    4. green clip retainers (22 come with the kit)
    5. white clips (22 come with the kit)
    6. small black expandable clips (4 come with the kit)
    7. large black expandable clips (14 come with the kit)
    8. skirt weather seal (2 come with the kit)
    OPTIONAL:
    rubber mallet (or a hammer + a rag)
    jack-stands (to be really secure of the car NOT falling on your hands)

    First of all I'd suggest having someone help you keeping the templates straight and tight, while you're drilling the holes. Second, take out those old jack caps and discard. With the car still sitting on the ground you can easily drill the holes on the face side of the skirts. Just place the template over the existing skirt and while holding it really tight - drill the holes. Start with a smaller bit, as it will go in faster, and will mark the places for easier drilling after.
    Take those GREEN clip retainers and slowly increase the hole sizes in the skirts, so those retainers fit really snug. When the holes are the right size, put in those green retainers and use a mallet to hammer them in the holes (if you're having problems doing it with your finger). If you don't have a mallet, place a rag over the retainer and hit it gently with a hammer a couple of times, until it's completely flush.

    When both visible sides of the car are done with, grab a jack and raise either side's rear part of the car. I'd suggest placing jack-stands underneath. I didn't, but hey-that's the choice I made. Anyways, you should have enough space between the floor and the drill with a bit, so you can drill the bottom of the skirt. Don't drill the bottom using the template. Mine didn't line up very good. Read on for a way to get the holes exactly right and save some time.

    After raising the rear, take off the rear tire. You might've noticed on the template, that you'll have to drill 2 more holes on the rear wheel-well side of the skirt. The front ones don't have those, so the rear wheels are the only ones that need to come off during this whole proceedure.

    Now place the template over, and drill those holes in the wheel-wells. Be carefull with them, as the Expandable clips that go in them are smaller than the rest, so the hole can't be too big.

    Now comes the cool part:

    Grab the weather seal, peel off the tape and glue it on the top edge of the skirt. Imagine, that after the installation, it should look like a slanted roof, in order to keep the water from getting between the new skirt and the body of a car.
    Get the white clips and clip them into identified (by lines) spots.
    Place the skirt next to the body and line up the WHITE clips with the GREEN clip retainers. Place the tips of the clips in the holes and pop them in. Expect a snap from each one. If it didn't snap, you didn't press hard enough.
    Now, with the new skirt pretty much secure, you can insert the expandable (small) clips into the holes in the wheel-well. Use rubber mallet (or alternative) to push the expanders in.
    OK, you're almost done.
    Look under the car. You see the "real" holes in the new skirt, underneath the car. All you have to do is drill through those. That would guarantee the hole in a precise location, and minimize the time you spend under the car in a very uncomfortable position. Again, use the rubber mallet (or alternative) to push the expandes in.
    Now, put the wheel back on and lower the car. Take a look at the ready side and on the opposite one. You have to agree, that it WAS worth the trouble.
    If you've followed these instructions closely- your opposite side is half way done (Green retainer clips are in). Now just repeat the same exact thing, that you did on side #1.
    Good luck. (Filip75 from www.BimmerForums.com)
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  11. #11
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    Great post!


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