The PROPER way to do it is not really fast or easy.
Typing from memory, so I may miss a step, but the basic concept is the same:
Part 1: The adjuster screw in the parking brake mechanism in the rear wheel - #4 in the diagram below.
- Raise the whole rear end, safely support the car on jack stands.
- Release the parking brake.
- Remove one lug bolt, rotate the rear wheel so that the adjustment screw is lined up with the hole. This is at about the 2 o'clock position I think. You don't HAVE to remove the wheel, but I found it much easier to do so.
- Use a flat-head screwdriver to adjust the adjustment screw until you can not turn the wheel by hand.
- Back off the adjustment screw by three or four turns so that you can spin the wheel by hand.
- Repeat for the other side.
--- Intermission, go wash your hands and arms so you don't get your interior dirty ---
Part 2: The adjustment of the cable
- Remove the interior console cover. You MIGHT be able to get this done by only removing the e-brake boot; I wasn't able to.
- Adjust the nuts on one parking brake cable until you can only lift the handle by about 6-8 clicks. Mark or remember this position, then back it off a few turns.
- Adjust the nuts on the other parking brake cable until you can only lift the handle by 6-8 clicks.
- Re-adjust the nuts on the first cable until they are back in the position you marked or remembered.
Check your work - with the parking brake all the way released, both wheels should spin pretty freely. With the parking brake up 2-3 clicks you might start to feel some resistance in the rear wheels. With the parking brake up 4-6 clicks you should feel significant resistance. With the parking brake all the way up 6-8 clicks, you should not be able to turn the rear wheels.
Both wheels are adjusted independently, and you must adjust both the screw in the hub as well as the nuts on the cable, otherwise the parking brake shoes will not put even pressure on the rear rotor.
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