LS1 Hyd Slave Cyl

[bimerok]

great, I will update my excel table.
Do I need any tob shimming or adjustment with new ls7 clutch connected to ls3 engine?

If you get LS7 clutch and fly wheel it is direct bolt on application

[Kaane]

Don't use any adapters too much work. Just buy a new line send it to BRAAP and he will mod it so it fits the stock BMW Master with zero adapters. Nice and clean!

Thanks BRAAP

[Pzary3233]

^ Exactly

[bimerok]

Guys, you make it sound a lot more complicated than it actually is. Putting two readily available adapter is nothing outrageous. You end up with exactly same set up as OEM BMW and it is as clean and nice as OEM. Nothing about it is cumbersome. However sending lines back and forth between US and Croatia is cumbersome, expensive and time consuming...

[BRAAP]

... Or have any machine shop local in Croatia perform the mod, the exact modification with dimensions are illustrated here;

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...3#post19369453

Hope that helps,
Paul

[foler]

You must do measurements of your parts (not everyone else's measurements) to determine if you need a shim or not.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsJ805umImg

Even with all new parts??? That sucks!!!

[bimerok]

Even with all new parts??? That sucks!!!

This crap is for aftermarket clutches or hybrids of clutches and fly wheels.
With OEM LS7 clutch and fly wheel you don't need any shimming.

[Pzary3233]

This crap is for aftermarket clutches or hybrids of clutches and fly wheels.
With OEM LS7 clutch and fly wheel you don't need any shimming.

I've had instances where shimming makes things better then just ok. I would say do the measurements anyway to be on the safe side.

It's just a part of hot rodding.

[James39]

I've had instances where shimming makes things better then just ok. I would say do the measurements anyway to be on the safe side.

It's just a part of hot rodding.

It only takes 2 minutes to measure, but about 4-6 hours to pull it if you aren't happy with clutch engagement/disengagement.

[bimerok]

If you are using all new OEM parts usually you will not have any issues with engagement/disengagement. However, you won't know if you are happy or not unless you try it first, but that’s a different story

[James39]

I think we can all agree it was much easier with mechanical clutch linkages. Seems like all these hydraulics are a step backwards in making things easy to adjust.

[foler]

A Tilton 7/8" bore master cylinder:


John

do you install this? pictures? experiences?

[Maynor]

No results yet. The Tilton piece I bought is physically too big fit under the dash it turns out. A compact version is the only thing that will work. Tilton and Wilwood both make compact versions.

The compact 7/8's Wilwood is going in now. It was about 1/2 the price of the Tilton version. A custom bracket does need to be made up. Should have pics next week and results the week after that when I hit my next track event.

Unless you have a track only car... I really don't think you need to worry about this mod Foler. Stick with the M3 master cylinder. Should be fine.

John

[foler]

Track or street, game is the same...Car must perform good. If I want to shift at 12000rpm, this must work. M3 is fantastic car, exceptionally build to last detail. Same thing must be in the swap. If LS7 clutch wont work I will find solution which will work. More and more posts about american parts unreliability throw me away from this project. Clutch problems, lubrication problems, oil consumption problems...100000000000 problems with new parts???? hellooooooo

[Tongboy]

personally i'd probably like to very mildly shim my slave with the ls7 - just to bring the pickup point up higher but it's an awful lot of painful work to drop the tranny for a relatively mild change

[Kaane]

Foler this swap is not for you. You will never be happy. You are too picky.

[foler]

...You are too picky.

Why? Because I want to ultra sport (new) car parts work properly?! Maybe is here differences between fine german manufacturing and harsh american. I like to work on car but I dont want to have stupid problems like shifting because gm cant make good clutch. If researching can save me trouble, fine. On market is allot different parts. I dont think so that all is intermediate products like clutch which can or dont can work. Sorry, but all parts which we need for this swap is from Corvette, synonym for ultra sport car. But from what I read many people have trouble with NEW parts. Not bmw trouble free, but when you buy oem parts THIS MUST WORK. Period!!!

[mateo m3]

well body just buy the new m3!! it has a v8 in it. you are forgeting that you are swaping a powerplant in a car that was not meant for it. my clutch works great never had any problem and is an oem ls7 clutch kit bmw master. if you think the american v8 stuff is unreliable drop a bmw v8

[Maynor]

..Maybe is here differences between fine german manufacturing and harsh american....

I get it now. You actually believe that hyperbole, along with everything you read on the internet.

Mateo hit it on the head... you'll be much happier in a new E92. Don't waste your money or effort on the swap.

You're doing if for the wrong reasons. You just don't realize it yet.

Seriously, buy new. No hard feelings.

John

[birdman2447]

After reading all your questions I too agree you need to buy new. With the cost if your mechanic doing the work and shipping costs to where you are go by a e92 or if you are lucky enough to get the 1m. The reason I am swapping my 98m3's drivetrain is my stock s52 jumped a few teeth of the exhaust cam. By the time I fixed the engine right I would be out 3k. That's still with 220whp. So I parted all of my performance parts for 3k and now have 6k out of pocket for a sweet build that should be over 350whP. I just don't see why you want to go through all the work when you have a euro ITB engine allready in it.

[foler]

This swap project is the best ratio between power/sound/price/mpg/handling...Prices for this USA stuff is really small. I will to this project. But is little stupid that people have that much problems with new parts.

[Don Nguyen]

What problems? The shimming of the clutch assembly? The way I see it's the same thing as gapping spark plugs.

[foler]

ok, ok, no more hijacking thread.

[Maynor]

I hate to say it but I noticed a difference immediately with the new 7/8" clutch master cylinder. Just engaging the gears while parked, there was a difference. Zero notchyness including reverse. My old master could have been on its way out as well but the difference was very noticeable even with a brand new slave cylinder already installed.

I could not use the Tilton piece due to size. It was physically too long to fit under the dash. I wound up with a compact 7/8" Wilwood remote mount master cylinder instead. Part number 260-10374. Click on that link for all the dimensions/specs if desired.



It required a custom bracket to fit:


The clutch fluid hose still needs a grommet at the firewall obviously.

I also went with a dedicated 10oz. clutch fluid reservoir, shown here next to the brake master cylinder:


It amazing how much faster and easier it is to bleed the clutch master and slave. The volume of fluid coming out of the bleeder is significantly more the the OEM 3/4" clutch master cylinder/GM slave cylinder. LS7 clutch and pressure plate.

I'll be able to tell if this fixes my high rpm downshift issues next weekend at VIR, right after the GRM UTCC. It works for all the track Corvette guys with the same issue so I'm optimistic.

One question, does anyone know what this sensor/switch is?


It was displaced during the clutch pedal removal and I have no idea what it does. I would like to know if its okay to toss it. It wasn't connected to anything.

[boriksh]

is it a clutch in to start the car sensor?