I can't believe I didn't think of that before..
That might just be one of the best solutions I've heard of yet!
It's a little pricey though. About $25 for the tube. Most of which you will toss. ;-)
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Never thought of this :o thanks!
JB-Weld (not quick weld) . Just mix the entire tube , clamp for 24 hours. The real trick is making sure your handle is tight , and that any pull forces are directly applied to the door not to the panel (and if the handle is not tightly screwed to the door it will pull the panel.)
On these cars (at least my door panel) the handle screws to a metal bar, the bar screws to the door.
Some blue loctite on those screws (and the regulator screws if you have replaced it) wont hurt.
Aircraft expoxy/adhesive would work well too.
Anyone replaced the top plastic across the door panel that the metal clips attach to? The plastic is very brittle and mine has broken off pieces of the strip after several removals so now won't hold (Pic below) . The small plastic clips around the door aren't enough to hold the door panel to the door so it's a bit loose. I've not seen what the part is called, so not sure if there's a replacement- i'm betting not given the age. I'm guess i need a work around. Love to hear other ideas.
Chris
IMG_2811.jpg
I had that same issue with the top rail of the door. I found mine were each cracked or broken in several places.
The top rail is made of ABS plastic which does not bond well to many glues.
Prepare:
- Mark the current location of the rail on the door panel. Note the distance to edge - millimeters matter here. I scribed small notches that would not get cleaned or sanded off.
- Clean all the old adhesive off. For me, Laquer Thinner removed the OEM black spray very well.
- Rough up the rail surface near the crack with medium grit sandpaper.
- Remove dust by wiping with alcohol.
Repair:
- Mix "Loctite Epoxy Plastic Bonder" - designed for ABS.
- Active the ABS surface with a quick wipe of Acetone.
- Within 20 seconds, apply the plastic bonder.
- Clamp securely until dry.
- Once rail is repaired, re-bond to the door card. I used "Loctite PowerGrab Tub Surround" (construction adhesive) which is designed for ABS and wood and exposure to water.
BMW Door Top Rail.jpgBMW Door Frame.jpg
I can add that I overhauled the entire door; panels, windows and handles. In remounting the frame to the door panel, I also used trim screws and I sewed one area where the cover was coming loose. Neither the top rail nor the other internal frame pieces are available from BMW. However, there is new seller on eBay offering top rail segments. Search for "E36 Door Panel Repair Kit". About $50/door.
Note: Lots of glues have been tried and failed. PowerGrab was way cheaper than epoxy in bulk. One tube did all four frame rails on both doors.
BMW Door Finished.jpg
Last edited by gzoghby; 10-01-2015 at 10:49 AM.
Guy Z
You can also get this kit directly from manufacturer http://fundthatpart.com/product/bmw-...or-repair-kit/
Figured I'd check in with a status update 5 years later... the 2 part epoxy hasn't budged. Still as solid as the day I repaired them 5 years ago. Can't believe it's already been that long!
Checking in again.... I had to pull the door panel off to install new speakers. Pretty much ripped all of the plastic pockets, brackets etc. off the door again I'm not surprised though. It was very cold outside so everything was a bit brittle. That was kinda stupid on my part. Also looking at the original repair I didn't glue the parts surface to surface, I smeared epoxy over the exterior and onto the door card.
so I'll be gluing everything again. Picked up some heavy duty construction adhesive at home depot, but now I'm thinking maybe gorilla glue would be better.
I'll post when I finish again haha
1) Prep the panel and the plastic parts by removing all old adhesive - mineral spirits, sanding, etc. Plastic parts should feel rough when done. Panel should look wood yellow.
2) Use an adhesive for ABS and wood - most are not. Read the back and choose carefully. Not much bonds well to ABS. It should also be exterior grade.
3) Clamp securely in multiple places on each part.
It can work!
Good luck.
Last edited by gzoghby; 01-16-2016 at 10:59 AM.
Guy Z
Thanks, I settled on heavy duty high strength builder's formula loctite epoxy. It listed that it is good for plastic and wood (and many others). It had a list of exceptions to the plastic which didn't mention ABS, so I'm thinking this should be good. I also found 3M 77 adhesive which specifically mentioned that it works on ABS and wood, but you don't have any setup time. I'll report back with my experience.
20160118_202543.jpg
Could someone please point me to the part number for the two torx screws on the passenger side door card? They weren't there when I removed the door card.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_2098
Thanks.
for the top clip section - this does get very brittle over time - don't worry - it doesn't need to be replaced - there is a BMW fix.
11 REPAIR CLIP 51418122408
I used gorilla glue several years ago. Still holding strong. My plastic posts broke so now my panel is off again. What type of adhesive is used to secure the moisture barrier between the door panel and the door? Mine looks like tar and it appears my barrier has shrunk over time. 1994 325i convertible.
IMG_7131.jpg
Last edited by b43bobbyb; 04-27-2017 at 06:52 PM. Reason: Adding pics
Does anyone have a picture of the correct way to mount/use PN: 51418122408 "Metal Repair Clips" #11 in the exploded view above?
I'm guessing #5 clips into the door, and #11 replaces the plastic top panel (the part that always breaks) & attaches to #5.
They're an "official bmw repair part"- so there must be a procedure out there somewhere, but I can't find a picture or diagram of them mounted.
Any help anyone?
bumping this....i'm interested about the repair clips, #11 myself. It looks like they dig into the panel itself? Anyone attempt this?
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
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