hi, i have a 1995 3.0 m3 in standard spec, recently i have been having problems with my m3 pulling about the road (more like following the road) so i booked it in for wheel alignment, one company done this to the front wheels only but it did not improve so i took it to another company, since the second company has aligned the wheels (all except camber on rear left wheel as the bolts are ceased solid, this is still 1 degree out!) the car doesnt feel stable and at high speeds it is dangerous!! all bushes are ok and no one can figure it out! any ideas???
Is there any play in the steering?
How are the tires and tire air pressures?
I don't know much about your car, just figured I'd give your thread a bump to the top.
Tbd
I remember there was a time when my car was unstable especially at high speeds.
turned out that #3 was worn out.
I bet you it's your RTAB's, If they are busted you'll have tons of play. I had the same issue, and new Poly Bushings put me back in the game. 4 wheel alignment must come after.
Last edited by Brewtech; 03-05-2010 at 08:46 PM.
just an update, i have just replaced the rtab today and still have the same issues, i noticed my top mounts are worn slightly maybe this could be causing it???? i will also try number 3's as suggested thanks!!!
oh and tires are new toyo proxes tr1 on rear (only noticed the problem around the time the tires were fitted but fitters say they are ok) and year old eagle f1's on the front all pressures are ok.
thanks for all the help guys
oh also whats #3 called?? there is a small amount of play in the steering but it is a 15 year old car so i guess there would be a bit????
Last edited by danbmwm3; 03-14-2010 at 02:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
i dont think the mounts would have much affect on the unstable speeds its probably bushings
I had the exact same problem right after my tires to a wrong type. Did you change your tires recently ? What's the type, age and model of tires?
yeah rear tires were done about 3 weeks ago, they are brand new toyo proxes tr1 245 40 17, could this be the cause?? im planning on changing my rear subframe bushes this weekend so it would be good if i dont have to!
I'd be looking at getting the same tires all around. Used to be you couldn't tell the difference. These days with high performance tires, the fronts and rears may have different handling characteristics causing problems.
I just had a problem on my wife's car, she had Michelin PSAS all around and I added just 2 snow tires Michelin Xice. Handling was scary, I bought 2 more and it was fine this year.
I speak from experience its more then likely the alignment. I played games with several shops and they never got it right.I finally went to BMW and it was a totally new car. They set it up right, used weights to simulate down force during the alignment. I may be wrong but it sounds just like my 1998 M3
Man, stopping wasting money on suspension .. it's the tires for sure. Try to use any 4 sets of tires even for a test (from a friend or your old tires or whatever) and the problem will disappear. This design of tires is the worst for our cars, I can only use them on Autocross tracks (High grip but low speeds) or in wet conditions. I'm speaking from experience, I had this problem in two separate cars, changing the tires solved the problem.
In general, don't try to buy a tire with this design (arrows or trees things in the middle) as they all cause the same symptoms.. all of them their Grip cause pulling the car behind the road!
I really dont think hes wasteing money on suspension parts. Its all stuff that would need replacement anyways. It maybe the tires but it just sounds like what I had gone through
i have two rear tires coming i am going to try them tommorow or thursday and il let you all know the results!!
Let us know the results.I am interested to see the out come right or wrong.
My '78 is off about 1 degree on left rear arm bushings (toe-in). I tow-in the front alignment about 1/4 of a turn more than specs on the tie-rods, on each front, to compensate for the rear alignment. Has worked good so far. I don't let the shops align it because of the rear not being adjustable.
Tbd
changed the wheels to a spare set and got to 145 on my private road of course where as before couldnt get over 100 without nearly being pulled into a barrier!!
Cheers guys for all your ideas and help cause i prob wouldnt have tried swapping wheels if war had not said about it, i think people should be warned about this, now i need to try and get a refund on these and decide on some other tires!!
Glad this all worked out for you I never would have guessed tires
92 325i- afe intake, bavauto coils, m3 h&r race springs, m3 koni yellows, m3 solid rubber bushings, sparco strut bar, TMS sway bars, bavauto chip, shorty headers, AA track pipe, borla exhaust, evosport pullies, FDK, stewart waterpump, silicone intake hose, silicone rad hoses, alum rad, reinforced subframe, brembo BBK, 3.23 LSD, uuc weighted shift knob, AA short shifter, m3 bumpers, DS1's, TURBO S50 BUILD IN THE WORKS
06 GSXR-600- jardine gp1 pipe, PC3, RK quick accel kit, k&n filter
04.5 duramax CCSB- K&N filter, AFE turbo inlet pipe, 4 inch turbo back straight pipe, PPE xcelerator 120hp tune, 6 inch tip
Type and design of Tires makes a hell of difference.. and those tires looks cool .. but acts bad..
Glad to help .. Enjoy your ride
Try this tire decision guide, maybe it helps: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/dg/MenuServlet?search=tdg
Cheers
Control Arms, worn ball joints??
Editing by: Blitz355
yeah my 'private' road im off to pick some tires today cant wait to get my car back on the road with 4 matching wheels!!!
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