Anyone else just not that impressed with Leatherique?

[Drjones]

I learned of Leatherique here on these forums where it is talked about as if it is handed down to us mere mortals from the Gods on high.

Yesterday I finally made time to clean out my 328's interior and bought some Lexol Leather Conditioner.

My seats look and feel better with 5oz. of Lexol than they ever did with an entire 32oz. bottle of Leatherique!

I know everyone has different experiences, but am I the only one who just has not been impressed with Leatherique?

[itciai]

Hmm... Something's wrong here... In my experiences, Leatherique pwnz Lexol.

[ndrom]

Have you done the water drop test to make sure you have uncoated leather?

[ss109]

Sounds like you didn't use it properly. Lexol is shit.

[Drjones]

Have you done the water drop test to make sure you have uncoated leather?

Nope. What is that test & how do I do it? I've got a 2000 328i, 4-door, E46.

Sounds like you didn't use it properly. Lexol is shit.

Negative. I followed the directions that came with the Leatherique; used the Prestine Clean, soaked my seats with the oil, etc. Wasn't impressed at all.

I spent 30 minutes and maybe 5oz. of Lexol and my seats look like brand new, including a couple areas that were like cardboard.

[ttkid06]

so you use the prestine clean before the rejuevanator oil?

[John in VA]

so you use the prestine clean before the rejuevanator oil?

No, use the Prestine Clean to remove what's left after using Rejuvenator Oil.

[Drjones]

so you use the prestine clean before the rejuevanator oil?

No, use the Prestine Clean to remove what's left after using Rejuvenator Oil.

It's been a while since I've used it, but I know that I followed the directions properly and fully AND I read about how to use it a million times here on the forum.

So, whatever the directions say to do is what I did.

[e24mpwr]

Leatherique is all about the process and time invested. It isn't something you can do quickly, but the results can be incredible. My recollection is that the leather needs to be on the warm side, too...

[itciai]

Leatherique is all about the process and time invested. It isn't something you can do quickly, but the results can be incredible. My recollection is that the leather needs to be on the warm side, too...

+1.
It's best if you let the oil soak for several hours or a full day. Gotta leave the car out in the sunlight so that it penetrates fully and pulls out all the dirt and grime.
Also, you can't compare Lexol and Leatherique, in my opinion. Sure, they're both leather-care products, but honestly Leatherique is in a category all it's own. Leatherique is a caring process for your leather... Lexol just seems like something you do if you don't have the proper time to care for your leather. (That statement is going to bite me in the ass- watch my driver's side bolster of my Vader rip this week.)

It's obvious that something was done incorrectly in your process of applying Leatherique's products to your leather. This is the very first time that I've ever, ever, heard of someone saying Lexol is 'better' than Leatherique.

[Drjones]

+1.
It's best if you let the oil soak for several hours or a full day. Gotta leave the car out in the sunlight so that it penetrates fully and pulls out all the dirt and grime.
Also, you can't compare Lexol and Leatherique, in my opinion. Sure, they're both leather-care products, but honestly Leatherique is in a category all it's own. Leatherique is a caring process for your leather... Lexol just seems like something you do if you don't have the proper time to care for your leather. (That statement is going to bite me in the ass- watch my driver's side bolster of my Vader rip this week.)

It's obvious that something was done incorrectly in your process of applying Leatherique's products to your leather. This is the very first time that I've ever, ever, heard of someone saying Lexol is 'better' than Leatherique.

Like I said, I followed directions and I did let it soak in the sun for several hours.

Perhaps there's a chance I did something wrong, but I don't think so. I think I still have a little left, so maybe I'll try it in a few weeks, but in the meantime, I'm gonna stick with the Lexol.

[TOGWT]

Leatherique
[Leatherique arose from a need to find a product that would restore the leather in his 1939 Bentley. Nothing he tried was adequate for this special car, so he approached Peck about creating something new. After a lot of work, they produced Leatherique”] [Leatherique]

This type of top-grain premium leather is mostly used in prestige European automobiles; Aston Martin, Bentley, Ferrari, Jaguar, Lotus, Lexus and Rolls Royce, US Cadillac and high-end German automobiles such as Mercedes-Benz, Daimler AG and BMW. This is the market sector both Leatherique and Connolly were originally formulated

[Leatherique Pristine Clean is part of a two-step leather maintenance system. Step one - Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil is a protein collagen complex that is absorbed into the hide to nourish it, and while it will expel dirt to the surface, it does not harm the dye in any way. This oil nourishes the leather and forces contaminants out of the pores.

Step two - Pristine Clean then removes these contaminants from the surface of the leather and leaves it with a clean, matte sheen. This is the only leather care system that calls for the conditioner to be used first, and it makes perfect sense! The leather absorbs as much of the oil as it can and expels the rest to the surface, along with all the contamination.] [Leatherique]

Comment
[That is the design of the formula for Pristine Clean. It removes just the dirt and not the Rejuvinator Oil. Never use a cleaner first since that will emulsify the dirt and drive it into the leather]. According to Leatherique you apply the (conditioning) oil first and then the cleaner. They state that their cleaner will only remove contaminants (dirt and oils) but not the Leatherique oils. I would question how it discriminates between the oils that it removes: i.e. the most common soil found in leather upholstery is body oil followed by suntan oils and then oily residue brought in via the air conditioning system
In my opinion the chemistry behind the Leatherique system simply does not add up, whereas leather cleaning and protecting is a relatively quick and simple process (i.e. cleaning and hydration) it seems that this system takes a huge amount of effort.

The products collagen and elastin proteins cannot soak in to finished leather fibres; no matter how long you leave it (even in a heated environment) simply cannot permeate the polyurethane covering and the sealed hide. But if you feel $70 is a reasonable price to clean a urethane covering that’s your prerogative

You should avoid using these types of conditioners for coated leathers; as Leatherique is unlikely to yield any long term results. If you use an oil-based product the problem will be exasperated as the oil will attract dirt/grime to the surface. This product also contains lanolin, waxy cream and white spirit that can react with the coating used on today’s leather. It's a great product for the renovation or restoration of old English leather hides or other uncoated natural leather.If the seats are plastic coated leather then Leatherique is unlikely to yield any long term results. The oils are unable to permeate and will get wiped away, maybe leaving a little to soften the plastic coating. But you always then get dirt being attracted back by what is left on the plastic coating of the leather.

An extract from one of a series of unbiased Detailing Technical Papers, a library of educational materials that has become the #1 reference for car care on the Internet.

© TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2010, all rights reserved.

Chances are you'll learn something and advance your knowledge of detailing if you read any of these.

[sachmo12345]

From what I understand you really want it to be hot inside the car. Like park it with the windows up in the summertime in direct sunlight. I've been waiting months to use it because of winter.

[BMWMPow3r]

don't know never tried them.

[Dexm]

I would question how it discriminates between the oils that it removes: i.e. the most common soil found in leather upholstery is body oil followed by suntan oils and then oily residue brought in via the air conditioning system
In my opinion the chemistry behind the Leatherique system simply does not add up, whereas leather cleaning and protecting is a relatively quick and simple process (i.e. cleaning and hydration) it seems that this system takes a huge amount of effort.

I had wondered about this too in reading past threads.

Today, I just finished using the last of my latest round of bottles of lexol. And I've been using the delicate scrub sponges from 3m. I've got the untreated leather, AFAIK, in my '91 535i, and I was just thinking about getting some Leatherique today, and at the same time, thinking of what other alternatives are out there that might be better than Lexol.

[TOGWT]

Leather Upholstery and Trim Surface Identification
The most important thing to find out before you attempt to clean or care for something is to ascertain what the material is made from. Much the same is true if you’re trying to remove a stain, what caused the stain and what is the material you are trying to remove the stain from. Formulate a detailing plan, then utilize proper detailing techniques, combined with quality products is what makes a details outcome successful.

It is important to be able to recognise the different materials used for vehicle upholstery as some OEM use different materials for the various surfaces (i.e. perforated leather for the seating areas, PVC bolsters and seat backs) Before choosing a product to clean or maintain interior surfaces you must be certain of the material used and wither it is Urethane covered or pigmented Aniline, as the correct care product requirements are vastly different.

Once you’ve correctly identified the leather and / or the applied finish applicable to your vehicle's upholstery, it’s easier to select suitable products / methods (one size fits all is just a vendor's marketing myth)

To identify the material used; (N-Nubuck / Alcantara®) (A-Aniline / Non-Coated) (P-Protected / Coated)
Leather however finished has to allow the movement of moisture back and forth (transpiration) so the use of water- based cleaners and protectors will maintain hydration, which is essential to keeping it in pristine condition.

(a) Natural leather (A-Aniline / Non-Coated) Aniline Leather is coloured all the way through with a transparent dye. The effect is applied by immersing the leather in a dye bath. Because the finish is transparent and shows the natural markings of the leather, only top quality hides can be used. It is absorbent and has a random shade colours and grain pattern; lightly scratch the surface to see if it reveals a lighter colour, water drops will darken its colour (temporarily).

(b) Protected leather (Pigmented) (P-Protected / Coated) - by slightly scratching it with your nail, if it changes to a darker / lighter shade, it is unprotected (i.e. how suede changes colour depending on the fibres' orientation). If this has little effect it’s protected. If water ‘beads’ on the surface, or if cleaners and conditioners remain on the surface, it’s (polyurethane) protected leather as liquids will not penetrate this type of surface; it will also have an even shine.

(c) Nubuck, Alcantara® (N-Nubuck / Alcantara® ) - are top-grain cattle hide leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibres, producing a velvet-like surface. Alcantara® is a non-organic (synthetic) material. Both materials are very soft to the touch and will scratch or scuff very easily; water drops will darken the surface, but it returns to its original colour after drying.

(d) Nappa Leather (A-Aniline // Non-Coated ) – for leather used in autos, Nappa is a term that is used to denote a high quality leather, it’s a very soft, absorbent full grain (uncoated) and usually tanned with alum and chromium salts and dyed throughout, water drops will darken its colour (temporarily).

(e) Vinyl - is a non-organic (synthetic) material that has an even, almost repeating pattern. The depth of the lines within the grain on vinyl is also consistent, while the same lines on leather will vary; it is also usually smooth and soft to the touch. water drops will remain (unchanged) on its surface

The common denominator for all the above surface finishes is that they all require specific products in accordance with the finish; not forgetting protection from ultra violet (UV) radiation


An extract from one of a series of unbiased Detailing Technical Papers, a library of educational materials that has become the #1 reference for car care on the Internet I more than appreciate these articles are very technical in content and therefore will not appeal to every detailers level of knowledge or experience. But chances are you'll learn something about detailing if you read any of these.

© TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2010, all rights reserved

[RidgeBack]

I've used Leatherique and it worked very well. I followed the instructions I found online and left it in the sun for 4 hours with a thick coating. I then removed it with MF cloths and the spray. These are the results on my 97 M3:









The leather is very clean and supple now.

[CT Sean]

(b) Protected leather (Pigmented) (P-Protected / Coated) - by slightly scratching it with your nail, if it changes to a darker / lighter shade, it is unprotected (i.e. how suede changes colour depending on the fibres' orientation). If this has little effect it’s protected. If water ‘beads’ on the surface, or if cleaners and conditioners remain on the surface, it’s (polyurethane) protected leather as liquids will not penetrate this type of surface; it will also have an even shine.

Assuming that this is the leather type that is most often found in our cars. Any advice what we should be using since, according to this, leatherique is a waste of time and money?

I tried searching for the "Detailing Technical Papers" with no luck. The only thing that Google finds are your posts all over the world with "extracts".

[m33m]

I will try the tests, but does anyone know what type of leather is used in a 2003 E39 black leather interior, or are there different possibilities?

[captaineddie]

I think my '06 Z4 has coated leather, but it sounds like Leatherique might work on my Ford King Ranch pickup.

[Midwest]

I just picked up a 1999 528i with the sports package and gray leather interior. I want to spend this Saturday rejuvenating the seats. Based on this thread it looks like they are the protected kind...but Im confused as to what to use?

Ive usually used Lexol with decent results but not sure what to use now. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thx

[TOGWT]

I just picked up a 1999 528i with the sports package and gray leather interior. I want to spend this Saturday rejuvenating the seats. Based on this thread it looks like they are the protected kind...but Im confused as to what to use?

Ive usually used Lexol with decent results but not sure what to use now. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thx

Try a water-based product like Leather Master or Sonus

[MIMI1]

Leatherique PWNZ Noobs!!

[Midwest]

Leatherique PWNZ Noobs!!

From the successes Ive read it does look like leatherique is a good product however if our leather is protected (which I think mine is on my '99 528i with sport seats) then it would seem like its not right.

Are there any detail guys here that can chime in with knowledge of using all the different products?

BTW, I looked for "leather master" and "Sonus" on this site and came up with nothing so Im not sure about those for comparison.

[CT Sean]

I did find "sonus" and "leather master", they are even more expensive than leatherique.

Interestingly, the Sonus cleaner states (regarding the polyvinyl coating on modern leather) "The coating is super thin, less than 1-millionth of an inch, and is micro perforated to allow the leather hide to breath and take in moisture"

The Sonus conditioner specifically states" Penetrates leather's protective coating to re-hydrate completely"

Seems in direct contradiction to what is stated above.

It's all very confusing.