I've been searching for the 'correct' answer all morning since Id like to buy some product today that I can use this weekend. Its amazing how you can find SO many different opinions on the net! The common denominator kept pointing back to Leatherique.
I decided its time to do my OWN research so I picked up the phone and called them. Christy (with Leatherique) was generous enough to spend 20 minutes on the phone with me to clear up a lot of rumors. She explained to me how in the 1990's the EPA made some mandates to change the dying materials in leather, which some are calling a 'coating'. When asked about whether their products work with 'coated' leather she made a very good point. If you leave your sunroof open and it rains, will the rain soak into the leather? Of course it will...and so will their products. That was an anology that, of all people, I can relate to (dont ask why!).
Needless to say, I ended up buying a 32oz set to be used on my 528i AND my 335i. As someone who has used Lexol for many years, Im open for other options and am looking forward to seeing if all the hype is true. If I think about it, Ill take some before and after pics. But, Christy did say that I may need 3 applications before they become soft again.
Stay tuned...
I just look at what the successful pros use. Detailed Image has a guy using the stuff on Ferraris. If the owners of those cars are satisfied with the product and the results it produced, then I think I would probably feel the same way.
2001 BMW 330Ci 5-speed - BMW Performance SSK, Koni Struts / Shocks, Conti DWS Tires, Lots of Plasti Dip, ZF Steering Rack
2007 Sky Red Line 5-speed @ 23 psi - Trifecta tune, DDM Extreme Backbone
Good luck, and be sure to try your darn hardest to apply on a bright sunny day, and bake that MOFO for hours!
Used leatherique last summer and did the same. If your seats are really hard (like mine were). Wait for the hottest day possible...rub oil in and cover with plastic bags just as they state on their website (preferably the huge black hefty bags) and ehhhem..."bake that MOFO for hours!". My leather felt completely soft and like new afterwards. The process of prestine clean was kind of a PITA getting all the oil off, but worth the sweat.
Good luck.
p.s. tried lexol...it sucked
Leatherique does work very well with the natural (non-covered) leather in a Ferrari or any other vehicle that's has natural leather upholstery.
This type of top-grain premium leather is mostly used in prestige European automobiles; Aston Martin, Bentley, Ferrari, Jaguar, Lotus, Lexus and Rolls Royce, US Cadillac and high-end German automobiles such as Mercedes-Benz, Daimler AG and BMW. This is the market sector both Leatherique and Connolly were originally formulated
The majority (95% + ) of automotive upholstery is by-cast polyurethane covered leather, these leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance, by-cast will also stretch more than top grain leather and is therefore subject to show creasing. The heavier pigments can create much darker colours, protected leather has a substantial finish applied that makes them more resistant to heavy wear and stains.
An extract from one of a series of unbiased Detailing Technical Papers, a library of educational materials that has become the #1 reference for car care on the Internet
Chances are you'll learn something about detailing if you read any of these; although these articles will not improve your detailing skills, lead to a successful business or change your life. Applying what you learn from it, however, will. That's where your commitment comes in - you need to make a commitment to yourself right now that you will take action on what you learn.
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I have used Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil on my 1999 Range Rover for a number of years now. It works like a champ. But the RR has Connolly leather, which is apparently highfalutin stuff.
A couple of years ago, I bought a Z4 convertible. I put the Leatherique on its leather and I was underwhelmed. I tried it 8 different ways. I really could not notice much, if any, before and after difference at all. But I promptly smashed the Z4. (And almost bought the farm myself in the process).
I have yet to put the Leatherique on the 2003 330Ci that I bought last year. It seems to have pretty much the same leather as the Z4, so I am not expecting all that much. IMO, it stands to reason that leather in a convertible would (or at least should) be hardier than leather that is not subject to loads of very direct sunlight in places like Florida and Arizona. If it was really soft in the first place, it would dry out, roast, and start deteriorating much more quickly. (Admittedly, that is a complete SWAG).
Recently bought 2007 335i convert. description is dakota leather trim. What do I have, beside D leather trim? I don't want to do all day leather condition. What is a good product that I can use to clean and protect the DAKOTA leather TRIM?????
I love the way Leatherique works on my interior. I rub in the oil, let it sit for a day and then clean it with the cleaner. I know it works because my leather is both softer and cleaner than when I started. I have used it on my car for a full year now (4 times) and I wont go back to any of the "quick products". I dont mind spending a whole day conditioning my leather because its worth the results I get.
Its the same old story that you only get out what you put in.
UPDATE: I purchased the Leatherique about 10 days ago and used it last weekend on my 1999 528i. I followed the instructions and let it stay on the leather for a little over a day while the car was outside. (I live on the beach in So. Cal so it was relatively warm inside the car). After that I used the cleaner (per the instructions) and found that you need to be VERY careful with how hard you 'clean' the seats. My best recommendation is to start in an area where very few will see. It has a habit of removing the old die if you rub too hard. It took hours to clean all the seats! On a side note the cleaner appears to work really well with the other trim pieces and the dash.
Does the leather feel softer?
Well, to be honest with you, if it does its not as dramatic as one would think. In all fairness, and after speaking with one of the reps from the company, it will probably take a few applications to get it softer.
Will I use it again?
Yeah, Ill give it a few more shots. But next time Im going to focus mainly on the spots that are really hard and lightly do the softer spots. This is for no other reason than the fact that Ive already used half of what was sent to me (or about 16oz) and Im not to hip on spending hundreds of $$ on more stuff until it can prove itself.
In reference to the poster that mentioned his 2007 335i, I also have one of those with the same leather. I have yet to apply the Leatherique to this car but I will say that it feels like those seats have more of a protective coating on them so it may be harder for the oil to penetrate. If you do it before me, let me know!
I offer leatherique as on option on the details that I perform.
I used the process a few days ago on a Ferrari 360 with Daytona seats. Time did not permit the car to sit out in the sun all day, nor was there much sun out.
In the end the client was very happy.
E34 Mods: OEM Coin Holder / Cup-Holder / Rubber Mats / Seat Covers / Warning Triangle / Sachs-Boge 750il bushings / Windscreen reflective sunshade / OEM Euro-spec Hella lamps to be installed soon.
Looking for OEM 15 or 16" basketweaves & cassette holder.
Leatherique does work very well with the natural (non-covered) leather in a Ferrari or any other vehicle that's has natural leather upholstery.
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I feel as though leatherique may be eating away at the protective coating of the seats; hench the reason some seem to use it multiple times a year. just a thought.
I rub Target brand "Advanced Therapy Lotion" into my seats. It works for leather as well as chapped hands . Then again, its just for my old e30 sport seats. Cannot say it works for anything else.
Last edited by Bimmernovice; 05-14-2010 at 09:33 PM.
The leather care myth that will not go away... [If its good enough for a Ferrari or a Rolls Royce it must be good enough for my vehicle]
Many leather products market themselves on how they feed or condition leather. In fact most vehicles leather seats are first coated with a very fine emulsion (pigmentation) to give them the desired colour and then a clear urethane coating. So for best longevity you should be keeping that coating clean, hydrated (water will permeate urethane due to its small molecules) and as well protected as possible.
These same companies would also have you believe you should feed your car's urethane leather finish with olive, cantaloupe, sunflower and coconut oils, lanolin or coat it with wax. These products even if they were necessary cannot permeate the urethane coating, they will only attract dust. Unless you brought a specific premium natural leather upholstery package - you are dealing with the finished protective urethane coating and not with the leather hide itself.
Last edited by TOGWT; 05-15-2010 at 04:12 AM.
~ Providing unbiased advice that entry level, enthusiasts, professionals and industry experts trust ~~ TOGWT Blog - Facebook Page
Thanks for the info TOGWT.
It is similiar to oil for the engine and what you are saying makes sense from a logical view.
Thinner oils work for colder weather and heavier in warmer weather. While a thinner oil does work in hotter weather it is not as effective and not as good as a heavier oil in warmer climes and seasons.
I have been using 303 Aerospace protetecant on my 97 328 vert and wonder if there are others that do the same.
Smile Make My Day
would you guys know if the black nappa leather found on a north american (united states) 2003 m3 has a protective coating on it? and how to test for it?
From a pro......http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...roduct-review/
I just followed his recommendations this past weekend on my '01 325, and the results were astounding! Coating or no coating.... this stuff works!
I did the water test and it did not absorb.. so I'm assuming I got the cheaper leather so should I not even buy leatherique ? use aero 303 for cleaning ? Looking to take that dark black line out from the top of the chair by head reset
Leatherique's sales would drop significantly if they told you their product doesnt work on coated leather!
Also, just because some pros use it doesn't mean its the best there is. Who knows if they are benefiting or not!
Its called marketing!
Put a few drops of water on your leather and see how long it sits there.
Last edited by DetailDan; 06-02-2010 at 05:18 PM.
I put it on for 10 min, ill try for longer
I loved the supple feeling that Leatherique gave my seats. I can't wait to do it on my new car this summer when the weather gets warmer. Last time I applied it early in the morning, left it all day (30 degree C day) and night, then finished the process the following morning. If you just want to remove surface dirt and grime it's really not that much better than some other products. But spray on cleaners don't leave the leather feeling as refreshed as Leatherique.
Last edited by renemesis; 06-05-2010 at 01:19 PM.
American “Icon” Leathers- “Boston”, “Baseball” “Dakota” (BMW), “Chaparral” and “King Ranch” (Ford F-Series) leather, despite their different names they are all types of Aniline leather, which have little or no protective finish on the surface of the leather which means that any spills, body oils etc will soak into the leather hide Use a specific aniline leather cleaner that that will clean the surface of the leather.
Aniline Leather is immersion dyed, which completely colours the hide with a transparent dye. Because the finish is transparent and shows the natural markings of the leather, only top quality hides can be used. It is absorbent and has a random shade colours and grain pattern; lightly scratch the surface to see if it reveals a lighter colour. The water-drop absorbency test for Aniline leather - water drops will darken its colour (temporarily)
Alkaline upholstery leather should be routinely cleaned to remove light dirt and dust with a pH balanced, non-alkaline cleaner to loosen and lift grease, without overly drying the leather or affecting the hide’s natural pH. In addition to regular cleaning to remove abrasive debris and oils, leather requires regular replacement of its moisture (re-hydration) by regular use of a damp micro fibre towel
Aniline leather is moisture sensitive, so avoid the use of liquid, oil-based or wax-based products; water-based products will hydrate and maintain the necessary moisture balance. The oil secreted from your skin is slightly acidic and may cause the Aniline leathers pigmentation to lose its colour prematurely, taking away the effect of a premium leather interior. Removing these oils is paramount to leather care, but limiting the amount of bare skin you expose to your seats and interior is a great way to prevent discoloration.
Products - a) Leather Master™ - Foam Cleaner. Always apply the following products to a pre-cleaned surface (b) Soft Touch and (c) Protection Cream (d)303™ Aerospace Protectant
Removing Stains
· Surface dirt and dust – use a soft brush, vacuum and then use a clean, damp cloth
· Spills – use a dry micro fibre towel to absorb liquids, and then wipe clean with a damp micro fibre towel.
· Stains – use a mild leather cleaner (test on an inconspicuous place before use) using very little pressure and do not ‘scrub’ to remove
· Be aware that certain stains may not be removable, i.e. dye transfer, coffee, sun tan oil, food sauces, citrus fruit drinks, etc are especially difficult to remove.
It is very important with this type of leather to use a protective water-based type product, which will inhibit dirt and body oils etc from being absorbed into the leather in the first place; these can then be cleaned from the surface easily. Aniline leather fades at a faster rate than protected (pigmented) leather, so ultra violet (UV) protection is of paramount importance.
Cleaning
Remove surface dirt and dust, cleaning the seams periodically is important as dirt / grit will abrade the stitching causing them to fail, use a soft brush, vacuum and then use a foam cleaner, finally wipe off with a clean, damp micro fibre towel.
The advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture, very important for cleaning absorbent (Aniline, Nubuck, etc) leathers. Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner is a solvent free pump action product, which is extremely efficient for the cleaning of general soiling and water based stains. Always pre-test the product on an inconspicuous area. This cleaner is an aerosol version of Leather Master™ Strong Cleaner. The advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture, very important for cleaning absorbent materials. The foam created by this aerosol has the consistency of shaving cream, making it ideal for sensitive leather
Application
a) Shake the container thoroughly
b) Spray the product at a distance of 12 inches from the leather
c) Using the sponge, work the foam gently into the leather. With a clean micro fibre towel wipe away excess foam
d) For heavily soiled areas, or where the leather has become ingrained such as in creases in the leather, a soft brush can be used to agitate and loosen the dirt.
Maintenance
This is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry
Application
a) Shake the bottle well before using.
b) Apply the product to a clean, micro fibre towel and wipe a thin layer evenly on the leather.
c) Allow each layer to dry and absorb into the leather
Leather Protection
Leather Master™ - Protection Cream increases the durability, resistance against; stains, spills and provides the hydration necessary to keep the leather soft and supple. It should be applied to new leather upholstery before use, particularly on sensitive or light colours, and after any cleaning process. Acts as a protective barrier which assists in the removal of every day light soiling, helps to resist dye transfer and make its removal more successful and reduces surface scratching and enhances colours on aniline leathers
Application
a) Shake the container thoroughly
b) Apply the Protection Cream to a soft micro fibre towel, spread product evenly; paying particular attention to high use areas like seating area, arms, front railings and backs.
c) Apply first coat and allow to dry, and then apply second coat
Ultra Violet (UV) Protection
303® Aerospace Protectant (UV) Protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc) it is also water miscible, so it is imperative that you renew it and needs to be re-applied on a regular basis (dependent upon location climatic condition) There is no such thing as a permanent UV stabilizer, it a matter of physics, not chemistry.
Providing protection from ultra violet radiation is very important to avoid photo synthesis (colour fading) particularly in an open-air roadster/convertible.
UV radiation is present in the sun’s rays throughout the year in varying amounts. Ordinary car window glass filters out about 97% of the UV-B radiation and about 37% of UV-A radiation. It is approximately equivalent to a good sunscreen, which means that if you’re sitting in the sun during a long trip you could still get burnt from the amount of radiation coming through the glass. Laminated windscreens block all of the UV-B radiation and about 80% of the UV-A radiation
UVR protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc) it is also water miscible, so it is imperative that you renew it and needs to be re-applied on a regular basis (dependent upon location climatic condition) There is no such thing as a permanent UV stabilizer, it a matter of physics, not chemistry.
Providing protection from ultra violet radiation is very important to avoid photo synthesis (colour fading) particularly in an open-air roadster/convertible.
Application-
a) Use 303™ Aerospace Protectant on a clean surface (there are no cleaning agents in this product) spray product onto a cloth and the surface to be protected should be wet, not just damp.
b) Using a clean, dry cloth and agitate to ensure the protected surface is dry (this product does not air-dry)
c) After application allow 60 minutes for product to cure, then using a 100% cotton cloth to lightly buff surface
Streaking (No, not the kind you see at Rugby matches) ensure that you are not using too much product; a thin layer is all that's required. Be sure also that both your surface and the applicator is clean and has not become saturated. In general, a quick wipe down with a microfiber towel should remove the excess
An extract from “ Automotive Leather Upholstery Care “, one of a series of 120 unbiased technical papers “The Science of Detailing”, a library of educational materials that has become the #1 reference for car care on the Internet
Chances are you'll learn something about detailing if you read any of these; although these articles will not improve your detailing skills, lead to a successful business or change your life. Applying what you learn from it, however, will. That's where your commitment comes in - you need to make a commitment to yourself right now that you will take action on what you learn.If you learn something from these articles, please pass it along and "pay it forward".
TOGWT ™ Ltd (Established 1980) © Copyright 2002-2010, all rights reserved
Last edited by TOGWT; 06-09-2010 at 06:43 AM.
~ Providing unbiased advice that entry level, enthusiasts, professionals and industry experts trust ~~ TOGWT Blog - Facebook Page
There are some good/amazing/worrying pictures here about Leatherique's effects on a 1991 Mercedes, the seats of which are made with three different types of leather.
Definitely does NOT indicate Leatherique is superficial:
https://www.benzworld.org/threads/le...ction.2989231/
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