How much hp can safely take bone stock M50B25 non-vanos?
180hp
Cheif Senior Hitman Engineer 1st Class
BfcOT Mafia
Since your in FI section I assume you mean with boost... 280-350whp should be no problem with the right set up and tuning..
Gary Gray
If you can take it apart you can make it faster!
Lets add some PSI, some turbo size, hot-side AR size, manifold, tuning, WG, BOV, DP diameter, etc,.
650whp
What Octane Fuel?
BTW, You are asking a very broad question
a million horsepowers
With stock rods.
Shits weak (the rods i mean)
stock NVm50 rods are beefy
I want to push somwhere 400hp.
hey man. it all depends on what your hp goals are. for a non vanos M50 the bottom ends are similar to the vanos ones, the only difference is obviously the variable cam timing. on a stock block you can expect 300whp depending on the right tune, boost levels, exhaust and such. now when you start to build up the bottom end, add up cams, and other supporting mods the possibilities are endless. im in the process of rebuilding my M50 vanos with a turbo and im hoping to get 550whp out of it. i wouldn't focus on how much power the block can handle, I would focus on what your specific goals are and to see what exactly you're looking to do with the car (drag, street, auto-x, track) then go from there, the hp increases can change all the time.
1994 332is 5 Speed Turbo
Mods: Built S52, Wiseco 8.5:1, Cometic MLS 87mm, M50 Manifold, South Bend Stage 5, UUC 12lb. Flywheel, Siemens 60# Injectors, Garrett GT3586R Turbo, SPA Turbo Manifold, Spearco FMIC, Umnitza Lighting, H&R/Powerflex Suspension. Synapse BOV, Innovate LC-1 Wideband, Defi Gauges, Apex ARC-8 18x8.5, Michelin Pilot Super Sport 235/40/18.
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510whp/500wtq @ 18psi on 91 Craptane
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beefy doesn't translate to strong. All that weight getting slung around creates thousands of pounds of inertia at high rpms, and a difference of a few grams makes huge difference in inertial loads. Two equally strong rods, one heavy, one light, the heaver rods will fail first. No to mention the very heavy non vanos piston. Either way, both vanos and non vanos are stout engines.
That is easily safe on an stock motor with head studs. Have fun.
Last edited by someguy2800; 02-16-2010 at 04:49 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I'm not going to change anything in cylinder head, because of budget. the car should be streetable, so i'll change only headgasket, head studs, maybe pistons, as i understood from this thread it will safely take me to 300-350hp, that will be enough for me!
thanks to everyone!
Last edited by blink977; 02-16-2010 at 02:06 PM.
If your on a budget, and your goals are 400 HP, I wouldnt worry about getting pistons. Theres no need. Also, stick with the stock HG and get some ARP 2000's and be happy.
Hello,
How much boost is on a stock m50 ( o-ringed Blocl; stock HG and stock CR) possible?
THX
No offense, but most (if not all) of these questions
are easily answered in the gorgeous Tried and Tested thread up top.
Its light reading
and enjoyable.
ok guys, plans changed, because of f****in budget and imposibility finding 2.5 cylinder head in my country, i found m50b20, engine long block for 200$, so the question is: are B20-s as strong as B25? will stock engine hold 300-350HP with boost?
anybody?
Last edited by blink977; 02-19-2010 at 07:24 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
It's all in the tuning man, do some reading in the tried and tested. You can blow up a motor running naturally aspirated if you screw up the tune.
A guy made 700 rwhp on the m52 2.8l - I'm building an m50 nv and hoping for 450rwhp on e85 gas.
Good luck...
373 whp at 11psi e85 "winter blend" - Dyno Dynamics
15psi now stock headgasket ~430+ whp - Butt Dyno
On here I recently read, with a stock motor w/ stock HG the motor is good for 300hp. Over that you're going to blow it. I'm going with this as a guide line before someone proves otherwise
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