Member
This is great info and instructions on how to replace the boot for the inner cv.
The problem I have is that I need to replace my inner CV itself. I can't find the part anywhere. If replacing the inner cv, do you have to replace the whole output shaft. Looked on real oem and cant see the inner CV.
Is it part #15 at http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...41&hg=33&fg=05
Looking at this diagram i can see its located at "LK" http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...22&hg=33&fg=25
Please help
Bear Motorsports
you cant replace the cv joint, you can just rebuild it (regrease it)Originally Posted by bkhakh
if you have to replace the joint, you have to buy a new or used half shaft.
"LK" is just a measurement across the seal to differentiate between the M and non M boot kits (different sizes)
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
Less fat these days
I decided to try this with my half shafts. The inner part came apart fine, and looks to be in good condition. Although, i did have to hammer the crap out of the shaft to get the CV spline off.
So, then i removed the inner boot and this is what i found...
I'm not sure how well you can see this, but the sheet metal is mangled, and is partially separated.
It appears that the sheet metal part on the inside of the outer joint may have been damaged from the shaft being moved around when the differential was disconnected. The funny thing is, this is the first time i have removed them (in the 6 years of ownership) and i did not pry on them. I removed the inner, then outer one after another. So, i don't see how i could have caused this damage.
if you put the shaft in a vice, and move the splined outer part around, it is not smooth. It feels clunky. Its tight, not loose, and no play, but it feels clunky (hard to describe).
What should i do? Should i ditch these and buy reman? Used? Should i bother cleaning the grease out of this one?
Last edited by fatboycowen; 01-29-2011 at 10:15 AM.
Jon
98 M3 Track/Autocross/Street- AST 4100s.
94 325is beater
garage junkie
Replace the axle. Hard to tell but it does appear that the droop may have damaged it.
bmwpower / bmwcca 147895 / 05 X5 / 99 M3 / 90 535i / 89 325is track project
Bear Motorsports
after doing a ton of these.... you are fine
what you need to do, is remove any metal that is breaking off, take a file, pliers, screwdriver, whatever, and bend the metal back a little to it "original" position the best you can...
soak the outer CV joint in some gasoline overnight, which will break down the grease, and make cleaning them out tomorrow easier.
Tomorrow, clean it out the best you can with a couple cans of brake cleaner with the tip on it so u can really get in there, and an air hose. It WILL be messy, but the better you can clean it, the better the CV2 grease will last.
Put halfshaft back in vice after cleaning, start gobbing CV2 in there, and start moving everything around. With the fresh grease, and moving it around, you should be good to go. Enjoy
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
Less fat these days
Wow, this is good news. Yes, some of the metal has become detached.after doing a ton of these.... you are fine
what you need to do, is remove any metal that is breaking off, take a file, pliers, screwdriver, whatever, and bend the metal back a little to it "original" position the best you can...
soak the outer CV joint in some gasoline overnight, which will break down the grease, and make cleaning them out tomorrow easier.
Tomorrow, clean it out the best you can with a couple cans of brake cleaner with the tip on it so u can really get in there, and an air hose. It WILL be messy, but the better you can clean it, the better the CV2 grease will last.
Put halfshaft back in vice after cleaning, start gobbing CV2 in there, and start moving everything around. With the fresh grease, and moving it around, you should be good to go. Enjoy
What bothers me the most is the fact that this CV is not smooth like the other side. It doesn't make a clunking sound, but it has a clunky feel, and is tough to rotate. It will slide back and forth, but only with an abrupt action, not smooth like the inner.
I'll try soaking it, and see what happens. i'll post up more pictures later.
Thanks for the reply.
Jon
98 M3 Track/Autocross/Street- AST 4100s.
94 325is beater
Always Something
I have a severely torn OUTER boot, is it possible to remove the inner boot without damaging it (to re-use)?
95 M3/2 S52 OBD1
Aim - DontRevMe
Bear Motorsports
Yes, its possible. They are so cheap though it would be retarded to reuse
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
Less fat these days
I agree. When i removed mine, i could have re-used it. However, as was mentioned, why bother? You need new grease and clamps anyway.
Jon
98 M3 Track/Autocross/Street- AST 4100s.
94 325is beater
Always Something
No one stocks this part and i need to have it finished tomorrow. I figure if i clean it properly it should be fine.
thanks guys
appreciate the DIY
95 M3/2 S52 OBD1
Aim - DontRevMe
Bear Motorsports
thats why you order everything before hand
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
Always Something
i didnt know till last night that you couldnt separate the outerthats why you order everything before hand
95 M3/2 S52 OBD1
Aim - DontRevMe
BMW CCA Member
well John, you were right. The outer clamps that came with the kit did not fit properly, but I modified them and got them "together". When I crimped them to tighten them up, they snapped.
I decided there HAD to be another option for crimp clamp cv boot's but slightly larger. I spent almost 4 hours the other night looking online, and couldnt find ANYTHING. I was extremely frustrated, and decided I had to try SOMETHING. Low and behold, on the 5th store locally, I was able to find some large universal ones at Napa.
Advanced Auto, Auto Zone, Pep Boys, and another local automotive store didnt have ANYTHING that large. This was later at night, they were all open till 9pm, and nothing. The next morning, I walked into Napa with my half shaft, showed him what I needed, and BOOM, they had them.
I actually bought all 10 they had, since I'm doing the same thing for a buddy of mine as well
Clamps for the outer cv boot
Hadn't found this thread in time but I found another option from eBay seller Axleprosplus:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...9#ht_500wt_956
I was searching for Oeteker style band clamps in size of around 4.25" diameter and I found this ebay listing. $10 gets you more than enough clamps to rebuild your axles and have track side spares
figured I would share, used them tonight they were great!
and to OP, thanks for your epic uber DIY thread :thumbsup:
Last edited by Brent; 03-21-2011 at 11:44 PM.
Always Something
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95 M3/2 S52 OBD1
Aim - DontRevMe
BMW CCA Member
sorry for fail
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...9#ht_500wt_956
Less fat these days
those look identical to the ones you get at NAPA.
Jon
98 M3 Track/Autocross/Street- AST 4100s.
94 325is beater
Always Something
they all look like the set i got with my kit from pelican.
95 M3/2 S52 OBD1
Aim - DontRevMe
Less fat these days
I got my boots from Pelican as well. When i received them, i contacted Pelican to let them know that clamps from the kit they sell do not fit. They disagreed with me over and over again. After several email exchanges, i gave up. I had already been to Napa for the correct clamps. I figured that i would let them know, so they could improve their products, or at least let customers know, but they didn't seem interested in helping.
Jon
98 M3 Track/Autocross/Street- AST 4100s.
94 325is beater
BMW CCA Member
How much are the ones at NAPA and how many do you get? Do they come with 2 sizes?
I got 5 of each size for a little under ten bucks shipped
I will complain too hopefully repeated comments from us buyers will get the message through. Also we can leave comments on the parts in their online catalog
I have a 95 solid half shaft I will see if the lobro one works there, maybe the large diameter hollow shafts are different from the solid ones
Last edited by Brent; 03-22-2011 at 12:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Always Something
no one with a good price on inner boot kits has them in stock right now.
95 M3/2 S52 OBD1
Aim - DontRevMe
Bear Motorsports
what you talking about?
rmeuropean, CMuzzy, autohausaz?
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
Always Something
just checked all of them.
unless you want to pay over 40 bucks, its backordered
95 M3/2 S52 OBD1
Aim - DontRevMe
BMW CCA Member
rebs I have 1 inner boot I could sell you. It is "used", I installed it on a halfshaft when rebuilding it with Redline racing CV grease but when I went to install into trailing arm I realized the threads for the axle nut on that shaft were fubar and not for use on a street car let alone my track car! But it's not actually used as the axle never made it into the trailing arm even... lol
so it would just have some redline grease smeared on the inside probably... but I would pull it for you if you want. $20 shipped?
if you are interested, PM me
i Prefer Pi
I'd like to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread as I just completed the CV rebuild.
What a colossal pain in the arse the disassembly was... I spent Friday night and most of Saturday fighting with rusted-on rotors, and Sunday and Monday fighting with sized axle splines. It was bad enough that I almost broke my three-jaw puller. I ended up using a 5-lb sledge and a ball-peen hammer (as the drift). Two whacks per side and it was free (after soaking in PB blaster over-night).
Repack was done Monday night, I spent a couple hours on it. Tuesday I took the night off [mentally] and got things cleaned up and prepped under the car for re-assembly. I also wire-brush cleaned and shaker-can painted the swaybar mounting brackets (they were wicked rusty). Last night I reassembled, it took about 2 hours.
I do have some thoughts/recommendations:
- Remove (or at least drop) the tail pipe: it's simple [but heavy] and will make things go MUCH easier.
- Remove the swaybar: same rationale as above
- PB Blaster! Get some... use it liberally. Soaking time is your friend.
- Heat is also your friend, when used correctly. Have a blue bottle [propane torch] handy.
- Clean the hub-to-axle splines VERY well before you put the axles back in. I would recommend brake clean and a toothbrush.
- I used anti-seize on the splines so next time I (or the next guy) can do the job in an afternoon.
- Go buy the NAPA Clamps PN: 686-5834 (as above - THANK YOU!!!) and an inexpensive clamping tool Before you start the job.
- After you've got the axles installed, spin them to make sure the outboard clamp doesn't hit the brake line - it's very close down there.
Thanks again to everyone and good luck to everyone who still needs to do it!
Last edited by weidner; 05-05-2011 at 01:32 PM.
\/\///eidner
'13 135i
'07 Lexus IS 350 <MEH>
'98 M3 Sedan <SOLD>
'05 Mini Cooper S <SOLD>
stuff engines, do chicks
Kudos on the write up. I wish I had found it a week ago...
I inadvertently learned how to do this(long story, not safe for the kids) on my own.
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