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Thread: DIY: Inner CV Joint, R&R with new Redline CV2 Grease

  1. #51
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    I even tried PB Blaster with some slide hammer action with the outer portion of the CV. Nothing. Didn't even budge. I might just have to get creative. Me and splines don't mix very well, for whatever reason.

  2. #52
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    you are talking about the inner cv joint right? the one that connects to the diff?

    stick half shaft "loosely" in a bench vice, so just the cv section is sitting on the bench vice, with the half shaft just hanging, use a blunt punch, and 5lb sledge... DONE
    "Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi


  3. #53
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    I tried that with a brass drift, but was afraid that the small splinters would get lost in the cv. A punch should do the trick, though. Thanks, Calvin.

  4. #54
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    I used a three jaw puller. Easy and came off in just a few twists.

  5. #55
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    Forgot to mention...tried that too. I actually have the same puller. I stuck a dead blow handle through the jaws for leverage and tightened the puller until I couldn't tighten it any more without rotating the whole thing. It never even budged.

  6. #56
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    Have you already removed the bearing cage and bearings? If not, did you remove the c-clip?

  7. #57
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    The snap ring was out, yes... but I couldn't get anything else off/out. I just wound up soaking everything in gasoline and finishing it off with brake parts cleaner. I put new grease in and called it a day, since I think the CV is bad anyhow.

    I repacked it because the CV was sticky. Figured it could use new grease. Turns out, it's still sticky. But I will have to remove the joint if I ever want to replace it...

  8. #58
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    where you going to get a new cv joint?
    "Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi


  9. #59
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    I thought I had read somewhere (maybe in this thread) that they were serviceable. I took that to mean replaceable. Was I mistaken?

    Are non-M inner CVs the same as the M3? I would guess that the splines are a larger D at least.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbosporttsi View Post
    The snap ring was out, yes... but I couldn't get anything else off/out. I just wound up soaking everything in gasoline and finishing it off with brake parts cleaner. I put new grease in and called it a day, since I think the CV is bad anyhow.

    I repacked it because the CV was sticky. Figured it could use new grease. Turns out, it's still sticky. But I will have to remove the joint if I ever want to replace it...
    A trick that the 4x4/offroad guys use when they rebuild their axles, is to swap sides. I wish I'd read about that before I put my car back together. If you swap sides, the axle will be rotating in the opposite direction, thus the ball bearings will not contact the same spots under load as they previously did. I'm not sure that it will fix your problem, or even help, but it's something to think about for reassembly next time.

    Might want to poke around a junkyard for an M3 CV to rebuild.

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by shaeff View Post
    A trick that the 4x4/offroad guys use when they rebuild their axles, is to swap sides. I wish I'd read about that before I put my car back together. If you swap sides, the axle will be rotating in the opposite direction, thus the ball bearings will not contact the same spots under load as they previously did. I'm not sure that it will fix your problem, or even help, but it's something to think about for reassembly next time.

    Might want to poke around a junkyard for an M3 CV to rebuild.
    ooooo..... I like...
    "Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi


  12. #62
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    Yeah, I sure wish I'd read that before I reassembled everything!

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by shaeff View Post
    Yeah, I sure wish I'd read that before I reassembled everything!
    join the club
    "Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi


  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by shaeff View Post
    A trick that the 4x4/offroad guys use when they rebuild their axles, is to swap sides. I wish I'd read about that before I put my car back together. If you swap sides, the axle will be rotating in the opposite direction, thus the ball bearings will not contact the same spots under load as they previously did. I'm not sure that it will fix your problem, or even help, but it's something to think about for reassembly next time.

    Might want to poke around a junkyard for an M3 CV to rebuild.
    Interesting... thanks!

  15. #65
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    What tool do I need to tighten up the big band on the outer CV joint?
    It's not speed that kills, it's the speed difference that does. Obviously you aren't going fast enough.

    Turning Benjamins into noise since 1997

    I read a list of the 100 things you MUST do before you die. Funny, "Yelling 'HELP'" didn't make the list!

  16. #66
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    And I would have just bought a new one...







    And probably still will.


  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by gobuffs View Post
    What tool do I need to tighten up the big band on the outer CV joint?
    One like this: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30800-Bo.../dp/B0002SREPY

  18. #68
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    For the small ones that looks like the tool I have, but is it the same for the large clamps? See pic. It is not a crimp style connector.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    It's not speed that kills, it's the speed difference that does. Obviously you aren't going fast enough.

    Turning Benjamins into noise since 1997

    I read a list of the 100 things you MUST do before you die. Funny, "Yelling 'HELP'" didn't make the list!

  19. #69
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    Where did you get that clamp? The one in the writeup and the one I have are the crimp style.

    My suggestion would be to search some tool suppliers' sites for a CV boot clamp plier that is not specifically for "ear" type clamps.

  20. #70
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    Clamp came in the rebuild kit from BMW.
    It's not speed that kills, it's the speed difference that does. Obviously you aren't going fast enough.

    Turning Benjamins into noise since 1997

    I read a list of the 100 things you MUST do before you die. Funny, "Yelling 'HELP'" didn't make the list!

  21. #71
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    You probably need some factory tool worth more than your car, knowing BMW...

    I would just get the NAPA ones and the crimp tool I posted. (I got a cheaper version for 8-12 bucks)

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by gobuffs View Post
    Clamp came in the rebuild kit from BMW.
    really? all the kits I've ever got (8 kits so far now), have all come with the normal ear clamps.


    unfortunately, I have no clue what the "proper" tool for that clamp is.

    As the other poster recommended, I would just get the Napa clamps (CHEAP) and then use whatever tool u want to pinch them

    Let us know what u end up doing...
    "Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi


  23. #73
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    Outer CV joint. M coupe trailing arm if it makes a difference.
    It's not speed that kills, it's the speed difference that does. Obviously you aren't going fast enough.

    Turning Benjamins into noise since 1997

    I read a list of the 100 things you MUST do before you die. Funny, "Yelling 'HELP'" didn't make the list!

  24. #74
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    Didn't need tool. Tried to use needle nose pliers but couldn't get it close enough to latch. Tried vise grips and it worked.
    It's not speed that kills, it's the speed difference that does. Obviously you aren't going fast enough.

    Turning Benjamins into noise since 1997

    I read a list of the 100 things you MUST do before you die. Funny, "Yelling 'HELP'" didn't make the list!

  25. #75
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    Congrats! Glad you got 'er done.

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