Sorry I meant inner.
I took another look in the light of day, and it's clear my shafts are different from those you show. No groove for the retaining ring, but a flare in the shaft inboard of the splines that would serve the same purpose: to keep the CV joint from migrating back. As we all know, there were many changes between the '95 M3 and later years; this appears to be one of them.
Not at all uncommon for manufacturers to evolve designs, sometimes to improve performance, other times to reduce cost. My guess is, since one could start from a thinner and less complex shaft end and do less machining, this was a cost reduction.
Last edited by Henryville; 02-27-2010 at 12:29 PM. Reason: trying to get attachment to display
One thing to know, early shafts are slender and solid, later ones are much larger diameter and hollow. Probably other differences between them also.....
John
'95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
AA Euro HFM Stage II (w/21# Injectors & Software) W/Gen III Exhaust - URI Crank Pully - FDM w/3 Row M Coupe Rad - 3.23 LSD - Vogtland Club Spec/Koni SA - UUC Red w/Enforcers - TMS Shims/Rear Camber Bars w/QA1 inners/Sways - VMC F/TMS R End Links - X-Brace - Perf Ultimate/SS Brake Lines - GC Tower Mounts/RTAB Shims - ZKW's w/5000K Hid - Fog Delete - Alpine 9847/Pioneer TS-C130R Kevlar Components/Pioneer PRS-X340/Stealth Box's/Wired Zune 120GB - OE LTW CF Sills/Glove Box Plate - Staggered Black M-Spoke II's w/235/40 (front), 255/40 (Rear) Nitto NT05's - Rolled Fenders!
***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209
Can't get the photo to display, so trying it as an attachment.
yep... definitely appears the 95's dont have the ring/collar combo, as the shape of the 95 shaft serves that purpose....
thanks for the picture, and now everyone knows about the 95 vs 96+ differences
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
I doubt I would have taken it on without the DIY, thanks again for creating it! Can't wait to get driving on this CV2 goodness...
no problem
It's really not that bad, and I JUST came in from the garage as I finished assembly on my entire rear suspension, and got everything all torqued/marked/and ready to go
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
Great DIY Calvin, thank you much
So are the outer joints really not servicable? How did they get pressed on in the first place? I really want to take mine apart. From the condition of the inner joints grease, it appears that 170k was enough to turn the grease into a nasty nasty substance. Any advice?
nope... I dont think they can be taken apart... .go the gas station.. get 3 gallons of gas, a 5 gallon bucket, and let them sit overnight...
clean them out the next day with some brake cleaner and your air compressor hose... dry/clean them out the best you can, and then just start packing in the CV2
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
I don't know (have not looked) but maybe there is a way to check for wear/play in the TIS? That would tell you if you should bother with re-packing or picking up new Axles.
Since by the time of the E36 they tended to just replace parts, I'd probably look at something like a E30M3, Axle Joints are probably not that different.
John
'95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
AA Euro HFM Stage II (w/21# Injectors & Software) W/Gen III Exhaust - URI Crank Pully - FDM w/3 Row M Coupe Rad - 3.23 LSD - Vogtland Club Spec/Koni SA - UUC Red w/Enforcers - TMS Shims/Rear Camber Bars w/QA1 inners/Sways - VMC F/TMS R End Links - X-Brace - Perf Ultimate/SS Brake Lines - GC Tower Mounts/RTAB Shims - ZKW's w/5000K Hid - Fog Delete - Alpine 9847/Pioneer TS-C130R Kevlar Components/Pioneer PRS-X340/Stealth Box's/Wired Zune 120GB - OE LTW CF Sills/Glove Box Plate - Staggered Black M-Spoke II's w/235/40 (front), 255/40 (Rear) Nitto NT05's - Rolled Fenders!
***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209
cheapest half shafts I've seen (NEW) are $575 EACH...
no thanks
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
Bumping thread....
Could this be a source of my vibrations?
Notice how the right side is much darker than the left.
These cars are tighter than a douchebag's turtle neck. By mipktb
It likes getting raped. It runs better. By Volfinator
Of the diff? no. That's just your output shaft leaking.
well, you might be low on fluid, which could cause your diff to fail. not sure how bad that is in your book, but I would not be happy...
Yeah that's in the bad section of my book...
...going to get diff fluid...
These cars are tighter than a douchebag's turtle neck. By mipktb
It likes getting raped. It runs better. By Volfinator
Cal, or anyone else- was your outer boot a PITA to get on and stay there? Mine keeps wanting to slip off. I have yet to get the new clamp (as the one that came w/ the kit doesn't fit), but the boot certainly won't stay there by itself, which is going to make it a complete PITA to clamp...
it should stay there by itself no problem... I'm working on my 4th set of half shafts right now, and no issues yet
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
Hmmm... I wonder why mine keeps wanting to pop off then? Weird. I rebuilt mine today as you've illustrated above. First time is a PITA, second was fine except I put the center piece in upside-down so the c-clip wouldn't go on but I caught it quickly and swapped it no problem.
Getting my friend's boot clamps tomorrow, and I picked up the NAPA clamps today. (thanks for the P/N, as well as this writeup!)
I guess I'll see how those outers want to stay on...
Edit: I cleaned up excess grease on the boot and outer CV, clamped them with the NAPA clamps and they're golden. No issues at all. I think they were sealing very tight, and the grease was keeping any air from escaping- basically making it act like a bubble. I just lifted the boot a little with a screwdriver and it popped right in place.
Last edited by shaeff; 05-07-2010 at 04:43 PM.
Nice write-up OP! Just curious, how did you dispose of all the buckets of chemicals/gasoline and grease? The ground or the drain just doesn't seem responsible anymore, wondering if people have some huge tub they fill up and drop off at a disposal place or something.
Also I wonder why the outer CV joint can't be removed from the axle. It obviously didn't come that way. Unless it's actually welded somewhere it should come apart. If I had an extra beat axle laying around I would destroy the outer cv joint just to see how they come off. Any ideas?
Last edited by Pink; 08-28-2010 at 03:26 PM.
Maybe I missed it, but you didn't put any sealant on the endcap before reinstalling, right? Last time I did these, it required sealant to keep the grease from seeping out the endcap over time. The sealant even came with the boot kit.
Just checking, because I may be tackling this project again...
bmwpower / bmwcca 147895 / 05 X5 / 99 M3 / 90 535i / 89 325is track project
You're talking about the little tubes of Hylomar. I didn't use them. I didn't see any on the original boots, and I only thought about it after I'd put the CV's back in place. Oh well. It's been several months and no leaking yet. If they start to seep, I'll just pull the CV's and seal them.
the second set I did, I used the hylomar that came in the kit. My set of halfshafts on my car didnt have that, and no issues yet
same .....
the outer CV is not serviceable because it has the splined shaft for the hub. There is no way to remove that since it has to be physically tied into the half shaft to rotate it.
Not sure why they didnt design it a little different, but it's definitely not removable
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
Do the inner CVs on the 95 shafts just come right off after the snap ring is removed? I couldn't get mine to come off.
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
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