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Thread: electr. rear sunblind drive toothed wheel, made of steel - sold out

  1. #1
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    electr. rear sunblind drive toothed wheel, made of steel - sold out

    specially produced again to replace the weak original wheel which usually loses the teeth over the years and then the rear sunblind starts to rattle and is often inoperatable. That is the large one of the 2 inside the gear. Used in all E32, E34, E31 and even E38 till 1996 for sure, even some till 1998, also some Benz and Audi 5000 models.

    Pics and DIY instructions http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/619738
    Note: I can only deliver the toothed wheel in version with HEX bolt, not the torx version, which was introduced from 1996 on in E38 and others.

    Shipped by SAL US$65.00 (usually takes about 2-3 weeks for example to the U.S., non-trackable, non-insured). Alternatively shipped by registred air parcel, faster delivery,, incl. insurance, plus $10.00. Optional enforcement bush as described below: $ 8/piece. Seller is not responsible for any import duties, taxes or whatever in the country of destination. In case of registered shipment I need besides the complete shipping address also the phone number to fill out the shipping documents. In case of SAL (Sea Air Land) I only need the complete shipping address. Paypal o.k. Please contact me by PM if any interest

    These drive gears were installed in following models E31, E34, E32 DRIVE 51461388215 , realoem Part Cross-reference, Part 51461388215 (DRIVE) was found on the following vehicles: E31, E32, E34 all Sedan models, including E34 M5

    Edit: additional upgrade possible from 04/2012:
    upon request I also can offer from now on as optional extra the bush for the guide pin for the smaller gear part in addition to the large toothed wheel in steel version. Here some pics of the set from various angles, both parts are special made
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/s...olloBuchse.JPG

    Reason:
    Another problem for damages of the gear is the bush for the guide pin for the smaller gear part, when that bush get's damaged, the gear parts (small and large) touch each other too much. Since more than 2 year some of my friends were testing this bush with good success together with the steel gear from me. repair, drill a larger hole into the housing with a 7.8 mm drill and then smoothen the hole with a 8H7 reamer, bush press in, insert the old guide pin into the bush ,grease,close housing

    Here a video how to install, there you can also see that the gear was touching the housing because the pin was too lose, therefore the enforcement bush was installed and the gear does not touch the housing anymore http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phvYM9uTdjg
    Some German language info on installation http://www.7-forum.com/forum/5/e-hec...au-222864.html Repair work is of course at your own risk and ability, if the hole is not drilled very accurate, your repair attempt might not work.
    Additional info: After the toothed wheel has been installed, lift the rear sunshade a bit by hand till the hex fits into the motor/gear drive unit. The control up/down is done by the control unit and is controlled by current increase , there is no limit switch. When the linkage is in the end position , the current increases and is then switched off by the control unit , at the same time is a timer running, e.g. when retracting the shade takes about 3 seconds , but the engine gets 5 sec power flow to completely retract even when the linkage is sometimes difficult to open/close caused by dirt, temperature changes and material expansion/retraction, hardened grease etc.

    German language instructions for the toothed wheel on E31 on Facebook with many pics https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...7144517&type=1

    In case the motor only runs up or down but does not switch to reverse, usually the control module is defective, here the repair info http://www.7-forum.com/forum/24/elek...aet-95651.html
    in German language, use google translate or other translation software, anyway, the pics tell you all important info.

    pics, I have ONLY the HEX nut version, not the torx http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/s...l/Zahnrad3.jpg
    and installation instructions http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/date...er_zahnrad.pdf

    Same gear/motor as installed in our E32/E34/E31 is installed in Mercedes Benz W 124 and also the Audi cars of same production years.
    Info for Audi owners: This toothed wheel made of solid steel also fits for Audi gear p/n (4A0959733) to replace the weak original totthed wheel. Fits on the following cars (European type mentioned, please check the type description in your country)
    Audi 100/S4 (4A, C4) (1991 bis/till 1994),Audi A6/S6/S6plus (4A, C4) (1994 bis/till 1997),Audi V8 (4C, D11) (1989 bis/till 1994),Audi A8/S8 (4D, D2) (1994 bis/till 1999)

    Here a German installation info, just in case you need it http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/date...er_zahnrad.pdf

    Fits for Audi gear p/n (4A0959733) to replace the weak original toothed wheel.Fits on the following cars (European type mentioned, please check the type description in your country)
    Audi 100/S4 (4A, C4) (1991 bis/till 1994),Audi A6/S6/S6plus (4A, C4) (1994 bis/till 1997),Audi V8 (4C, D11) (1989 bis/till 1994),Audi A8/S8 (4D, D2) (1994 bis/till 1999)
    Last edited by shogun; 01-23-2020 at 11:35 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Got the wheel after only 4 days. Most impressive for a packagage traveling around half the world.

    Thanks shogun (and the Postal Services involved)

  3. #3
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    thanks for the feedback. Here a German installation info, just in case you need it http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/date...er_zahnrad.pdf

    Info for Audi owners: This toothed wheel made of solid steel also fits for Audi gear p/n (4A0959733) to replace the weak original totthed wheel. Fits on the following cars (European type mentioned, please check the type description in your country)
    Audi 100/S4 (4A, C4) (1991 bis/till 1994),Audi A6/S6/S6plus (4A, C4) (1994 bis/till 1997),Audi V8 (4C, D11) (1989 bis/till 1994),Audi A8/S8 (4D, D2) (1994 bis/till 1999)
    Last edited by shogun; 01-23-2020 at 11:36 PM.
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  4. #4
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    Re

    E31 power sunshade is the same part number as E32/E34?

  5. #5
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    Part 51461388215 (Drive) was found on the following vehicles: E31: 840Ci , 840i , 850Ci , 850CSi ,E32: 735i /L, E32 740i/L,E32 750i/L,E34: 525i, 530i , 535i ,540i ,E34 M5 3.6
    the same drive was also used in older Audi and Benz of same production years as our BMW's, they have the same problems with these.In Europe this drive was also used till around 08/1996 in 7 series E38, but even found sometimes in 1998 model years.Apparently the stocked items were plenty. Later the part number was changed to another design

    Info in German from a technical info: Das Abtriebswellenzahnrad wurde 1996 auf Sintermetall und sternfoermige Nabenverzahnung umgestellt. Serieneinsatz: einfliessend ab 02/1996 was introduced from 02/1996 with toothed wheel made of metal and torx from 02/1996
    I can also can offer from now on as optional extra the bush for the guide pin for the smaller gear part in addition to the large toothed wheel in steel version. See video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phvYM9uTdjg
    how the bush is used, another problem for damages is the bush for the guide pin for the smaller gear part, when that bush get's damaged, the gears touch each other too much.

    Steel gear toothed wheel with hexagon nut I have available ex stock at the moment, also the new bushes.
    German instruction for the E31 8 series, 21 pics
    http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-01von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-02von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-03von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-04von21.jpg
    http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-05von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-06von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-07von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-08von21.jpg
    http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-09von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-10von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-11von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-12von21.jpg
    http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-13von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-14von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-15von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-16von21.jpg
    http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-17von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-18von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-19von21.jpg http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-20von21.jpg
    http://www.3d-atelier.com/11bmw/Heckrollo-21von21.jpg

    Note that I only have the version with the hexagon nut, not with the torx. The one with the torx was introduced from around 09/1996 in the E38, but it looks they mixed up the stock there, as the old ones were found also in E38 from 1998 sometimes.
    Also fits: Mercedes Benz W124 and some other models , Audi 100/S4 (4A, C4) 1991 up to 1994, Audi A6/S6/S6plus (4A, C4) 1994 up to 1997, Audi V8 (4C, D11) 1989 up to 1994, Audi A8/S8 (4D, D2) 1994 up to 1999
    Repair instructions pages 250 - 256, download, in total 32 MB E34 Factory Options Retrofit Guide MB http://www.olieroe.nl/auto/bmw530iA/...ions_Guide.pdf
    Last edited by shogun; 01-23-2020 at 11:42 PM.
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  6. #6
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    I've had one of these in my rear sunshade for five years now and it has been great. Highly recommend it!

  7. #7
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    Shogun, did the factory ever make a metal gear?

    Because I cracked mine open tonight, and found this:



    It's a little different than yours, but definitely metal, and everything seems to look good (the car only had 61k on it anyway, and I doubt the shade was heavily used). So at this point I'm not sure why it wasn't working, but I went ahead and cleaned the track and am putting the box back together to see if a simple cleaning did the trick. The original yellow grease was pretty pasty, and all the windows are pretty slow, so it may have just been old gummy grease.

    But I thought it was interesting that there was a metal gear in there.

    Edit:

    I believe it's original. It's stamped 12 of 93 on the underside. Also, it binds horribly when I try to clock the spring, so I may have my problem isolated after all.

    Shogun, your gear turns smoothly and without any issue, so I think I should be good to go. I don't believe I need the bushing I ordered at this point (the pin seems tight and the low-ish miles would make it seem like wear should be at a minimum), but better safe than sorry.

    Thanks again! (I have a writeup for the quarter window shade tabs coming soon, too!).

    Edit [2]:

    I noticed the very last time I tried the motor in the sunshade that it only worked (i.e. made noise, not actually worked) when I "lowered" it. It did nothing when I pressed the "up" button. Now that I have it apart and back together (and hopefully fixed) I can't complete the repair because I can't move the motor up the 15 degrees required to clock it correctly (aside from the fact that it wouldn't actually function once I got it all back together). So it appears I ALSO have the control module issue.

    Has anyone ever done the control module repair? The link just shows the relay joints re-soldered on the board. Is that really all you need to do?
    Last edited by blckstrm; 01-23-2020 at 11:07 PM. Reason: Added info

    -Josh
    1998 M3/4/5 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. 250k and getting better every day.

  8. #8
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    That is the original one. Kind of soft cast iron. My one is made of solid steel and machined, usually on the cast iron gear some teeth get damaged in one area. The main gear wheel is only used over approximately 120 degrees. The electronic control unit for the rear blind simply applies power to the motor for a set period of time. When the blind reaches the end of its travel it is supposed to stall the motor until the control unit switches off the power. Usually when the rear blind gearbox is disassembled it will be discovered that the main gear has several stripped teeth, with the blind in the closed position. This means that rather than stalling, the motor continued turning, causing the worn gears to make a loud clicking noise.
    Remove all the old, hardened grease when you assemble the gear.
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  9. #9
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    I noticed the very last time I tried the motor in the sunshade that it only worked (i.e. made noise, not actually worked) when I "lowered" it. It did nothing when I pressed the "up" button. Now that I have it apart and back together (and hopefully fixed) I can't complete the repair because I can't move the motor up the 15 degrees required to clock it correctly (aside from the fact that it wouldn't actually function once I got it all back together). So it appears I ALSO have the control module issue.

    Have you ever done the control module repair? The link just shows the relay joints re-soldered on the board. Is that really all you need to do?

    -Josh
    1998 M3/4/5 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. 250k and getting better every day.

  10. #10
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    If the control worked before, it should work now too. Maybe wrong installation. Pull the sunshade out by hand first, then install the gear,
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/266991
    translate this
    http://www.7-forum.com/forum/showthr...t=222864&page=
    http://www.7-forum.com/forum/showthr...t=215615&page=
    https://www.7-forum.com/forum/showth...ight=heckrollo
    http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/s-heckrollo.htm

    Control module repair I have never done so far.

    TIS VK-23/Pollatschek Baugruppe/Group: 51 511642000 02.05.97 Sonnenschutzrollo der Heckscheibe defect E31, E32, E34, E36, E38, E39 - Beanstandung: Elektrisches Heckscheiben-Sonnenschutzrollo ohne Funktion.
    translated by google: Complaint: Electric rear window sun blind without function.
    Cause: Gear wheel in the sun protection roller blind drive damaged or bearing tolerances in the drive motor.
    Measure: 1. Check whether the boom is in perfect condition (not bent).
    Attention: The drive must not (!) be operated as long as it is not completely connected to the system.
    2. If the boom is bent, only the entire unit can currently be replaced.
    3. If the boom is in perfect condition, only the drive must be replaced.
    Important: When changing the drive, be sure to observe the setting of the tie rods or set as follows:
    - Replace the bearings on the tie rods with new bearings.
    - Place the drive on the motor plate and attach with 3 screws - do not tighten!
    - Place the drive disk with tie rods on the drive.
    - Pull out the pull-out profile by hand until the toothing of the drive pulley engages in the output star of the drive.
    - Screw the drive pulley to the drive.
    - Establish the power supply and extend the blind completely.
    - When extended, tighten the 3 screws on the motor plate.
    - Check whether the lever arms retract evenly. Pay special attention to the first 10 cm.
    - Possibly. loosen the 3 screws and readjust the drive. For example, Left lever arm starts earlier - push drive to the right, right lever arm starts earlier - push drive to the left. Tighten the 3 screws on the drive.
    - Check again that the lever arms retract evenly.
    The output shaft gear was converted to sintered metal and star-shaped hub teeth. Series application: starting from February 1996
    Last edited by shogun; 01-24-2020 at 03:10 AM.
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  11. #11
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    Yeah, I looked at this one: http://www.7-forum.com/forum/showthr...?t=95651&page=

    The sunshade worked initially but snagged going up and trying to come back down.

    After the first week it wouldn't try to go up any more.

    I'll have to give this a shot and let you know if it works.

    Here's the translated content from that link in case it goes dead at some point. I'll try this soldering fix and report back.


    If the error occurs in the electrically operated sun blind on the rear window that the blind can only be moved in one direction, this may be due to the control unit. There are two sockets on the control unit; once for the motor (PIN 1 and 2) and once for the power supply (PIN 5) and the 12 V control pulses (PIN 1 and 2). PIN 3 is ground.
    The control unit contains two high-load relays for reversing the polarity of the motor voltage. As a result, the engine runs both left and right. The engine is switched off for a specified time.

    The error with the corresponding module was that it opened, but no longer closed. One of the relays had a cold break point. Remove the protective varnish from the solder joint and re-solder clean.

    For testing you can also connect a 10 watt bulb with test clips instead of the motor.


    circuit diagram
    This picture is shown reduced. Click on this bar to show the original size. The original image has a size of 912 x 774 pixels.

    Interior with the two load relays
    This picture is shown reduced. Click on this bar to show the original size. The original image has a size of 1353 x 859 pixels.

    cold solder joint
    This picture is shown reduced. Click on this bar to show the original size. The original image has a size of 695 x 633 pixels.

    Pin assignment
    This picture is shown reduced. Click on this bar to show the original size. The original image has a size of 2048 x 1536 pixels.

    Connection cable

    Greetings Wolfgang
    __________________
    Installation and repair aids with pictures - www.e32-Screw.de
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    -Josh
    1998 M3/4/5 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. 250k and getting better every day.

  12. #12
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    Amazingly, ^ that worked.

    Despite my terrible soldering skills, that did the job.

    Now I'm back where I started.

    When it's assembled, there's too much resistance within the gearbox for the motor to move the (new) big gear down. I can help it turn all the way to the stops, but the motor won't drive the gear on it's own. (I completely cleaned it out and re-greased it, and there's still too much resistance for it to turn on it's own).

    This may be a problem for the new bushing - I'll try that tomorrow and see if it does the job...

    Thanks for the help Shogun!

    -Josh
    1998 M3/4/5 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. 250k and getting better every day.

  13. #13
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    The control module switches off when there are too much ampere. So you have to check the frame if it opens easy and closes easy, grease the frame, check for bends in the frame
    German language installation instructions of the gear http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/date...er_zahnrad.pdf

    and also check inside the gear if there are touching marks of the gear at the housing, here the youtube shows it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phvYM9uTdjg
    I assume you transfered the centering pin in the middle of the old gear to the new year, that is for centering. On your pic you posted above the pin is still in the old toothed wheel.
    Some people lost this pin, I got from someone a detailed spec., translate this
    Weitere Zusatzinfo, wenn mal vergessen wird, den Zentrierstift aus dem alten grossen Zahnrad auf das neue Stahlzahnrad umzusetzen und dieser verloren geht, habe von einem Mitglied folgende Messdaten erhalten:
    Also ich habe ein scharfes Foto gemacht und den Stahlstift mit den Messschieber im Hunderstel-mm Bereich vermessen:
    -Stift-Gesamtlänge: 14,66mm
    -Durchmesser Stift für Bohrung in Messingbuchse im Gehaeuse: Ø3,99mm, Laenge bis Bund 3,85mm
    -Durchmesser Stift für Bohrung in (Stahl-) Zahnrad:: Ø3,99mm mit Länge bis Bund: 10mm (inkl. Raendel)
    -Durchmesser Raendel: Ø4,07mm, Position Raendel von oben (Stiftende) aus: 9,0 bis 7,3mm
    -Durchmesser Bund: Ø4,98mm mit Länge 0,81mm , below the picture of the original centering pin
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  14. #14
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    Yes, I did swap that. I don't think it would work at all without that pin.

    I have it at my local machine shop right now having the bushing installed. I'll report back tonight!

    -Josh
    1998 M3/4/5 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. 250k and getting better every day.

  15. #15
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    Put some bearing loctite on the bushing - will update tomorrow once I get it all back together.

  16. #16
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    Well, I did finish it up but something inside is creating enough friction that it won't go all the way up without sticking once or twice. It needs a little help to get past these sticking points, so not a complete success but not sure what else to do to it (and I don't have a ton of additional appetite for it given the limited use it will receive). I mean, it does function - it's just kind of a power-assisted manual shade at this point.

    -Josh
    1998 M3/4/5 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. 250k and getting better every day.

  17. #17
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    Great info in this thread, my rear sunshade recently stopped working and I think it might be the control module. Before it failed it would raise and lower without any clicking noise in the gearset and I could actually hear the clicking of the power relay after the specified amount of time (going up or down). It is currently stuck in the deployed position but when pressing the down button I do not hear any "electrical" noise, or the clicking of the relay after the set amount of time. At first I thought it's binding but it may just be a control module issue.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by m60power View Post
    Great info in this thread, my rear sunshade recently stopped working and I think it might be the control module. Before it failed it would raise and lower without any clicking noise in the gearset and I could actually hear the clicking of the power relay after the specified amount of time (going up or down). It is currently stuck in the deployed position but when pressing the down button I do not hear any "electrical" noise, or the clicking of the relay after the set amount of time. At first I thought it's binding but it may just be a control module issue.
    I got "resistance" clicking going either up or down, and then all of a sudden it just didn't do anything when trying the up button (down still gave me "resistance" clicking). Once I did the soldering fix it would click again when it finished going in either direction.

    Getting out may be a bit tough, but the fix really is fairly easy once you get the whole thing out. And I have terrible - TERRIBLE - soldering skills.

    -Josh
    1998 M3/4/5 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. 250k and getting better every day.

  19. #19
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    @Gab: 1 toothed + enforcement bush for your E31 shipped to Burnaby, BC, Canada
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  20. #20
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    blckstrm - Btw I removed my rear deck cover with sunshade, which was kind of a pain when the sunshade is deployed. With the whole assembly out on my kitchen table I first disconnected the motor from the control module and powered it directly from a 12v source. It worked flawlessly going up and down. I then removed the casing from the control module and didn't see any solder joints that were obviously bad, or any burnt out components or relays. (I expected to find some sort of anomaly within the module). So I hooked up the module back to the motor, then studied the e32 wiring diagrams to see what voltage inputs to the harness pins (from the battery and sunshade switch) make it go up and down. I rigged up a 'harness' from a 12v battery source to simulate what the module would see from the car's wiring harness and console switch as if it were in the car. Sure enough the sunshade worked perfectly. I have no idea why it was stuck in the up position while in the car? Maybe too much friction? I put fresh grease in the top rail of the sunshade and on the aluminum arm joints. I did not take apart the motor casing to inspect the internals. We'll see if it works when I get it back in the car.

    On my other e32 I had to actually take apart the motor transmission to get it working again because the transmission casing holes for the gear shaft had ovaled out (the intermediate gear shaft that connects the motor worm gear to the large drive gear).

    Weirdly, on this sunshade, the part sticker on the frame shows a 1998 date, and the sunshade main arms are a slightly different design than my other E32 sunshade. Did BMW update the assembly at some point?

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    48,212
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    1998 is a different drive, from 1996 starting with the E38 they changed the design of the drive gear and the connection. The output shaft gear was changed in 1996 to sintered metal and star-shaped hub teeth. Series production starting from 02/1996, it was introduced from 02/1996 with toothed wheel made of metal and torx. That is stronger than the old one. By not exchangeable so easy against the old one as the new has star-shaped hob teeth and the old one has a hex connection.
    SHOGUN'S TRICKS AND TIPS FOR THE SEVEN SERIES
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  22. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Rockledge, FL
    Posts
    675
    My Cars
    e34 540ia/e32 740il
    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    1998 is a different drive, from 1996 starting with the E38 they changed the design of the drive gear and the connection. The output shaft gear was changed in 1996 to sintered metal and star-shaped hub teeth. Series production starting from 02/1996, it was introduced from 02/1996 with toothed wheel made of metal and torx. That is stronger than the old one. By not exchangeable so easy against the old one as the new has star-shaped hob teeth and the old one has a hex connection.
    Thank you for the info shogun. Did BMW update the drive for the E32 as well? The e38 part number for the motor drive is different than the e32 p/n. From what I can tell it looks like the output shaft on mine is a star shape (torx).

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    48,212
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    Looks like they changed that too, different p/n's, star and hex version, you can compare the details by searching for pics in the internet by the different p/n's
    SHOGUN'S TRICKS AND TIPS FOR THE SEVEN SERIES
    http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Rockledge, FL
    Posts
    675
    My Cars
    e34 540ia/e32 740il
    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    Looks like they changed that too, different p/n's, star and hex version, you can compare the details by searching for pics in the internet by the different p/n's
    Thank you. I see that now, looks like they updated the design from the old one. I appreciate your wealth of knowledge about these cars, it is so helpful!

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