83 320i 1.8 Manual ? about tempature running over the 12 O clock Position?

[epmedia]

^ Copper/brass fuses (gold colored) are the best.
Here's a good write up and a source:
http://www.mbcluster.com/Products_Fuses.htm

[msiert]

That's for the help.

I was under the impression that if the aux fan comes on when the a/c is turned on then the fuse and the relay was good so that's why I suspect the aux fan switch went bad...unless the gauge itself is off and I'm not hot enough to engage the switch.

Did they change the fuse holders in the later models? Mine do not look like copper they are silver and look like their aluminum?

[epmedia]

That's for the help.

I was under the impression that if the aux fan comes on when the a/c is turned on then the fuse and the relay was good so that's why I suspect the aux fan switch went bad...unless the gauge itself is off and I'm not hot enough to engage the switch.

Did they change the fuse holders in the later models? Mine do not look like copper they are silver and look like their aluminum?

Review the ETM manual and save a copy... I just realized there's a separate fuse for the AUX fan's temp switch.

I don't know what was OE fuses, but probably the copper/brass because they seem to corrode slower.

[msiert]

Review the ETM manual and save a copy... I just realized there's a separate fuse for the AUX fan's temp switch.

I don't know what was OE fuses, but probably the copper/brass because they seem to corrode slower.

Thanks found the ETM looked it over and saved it ...looks like there are 2 fuses # 11 and # 13 both 25A that are part of the aux fan and relay wiring.

[Tom D]

...looks like there are 2 fuses # 11 and # 13 both 25A that are part of the aux fan and relay wiring.

yup, 13 runs the fan, 11 is used to switch the relay. either one will stop the fan from working if bad.

[msiert]

I don't know what was OE fuses, but probably the copper/brass because they seem to corrode slower.

Wasn't talking about OE fuses I meant the fuse "holders" in the fuse box mine (1983) don't look like copper or brass their silver in color. If so copper or brass fuses would be less desirable for the later model E21's

[Tom D]

no, the copper fuses are much better. I'm not sure what the 'holders' are made of, probably plated brass, but I doubt they're aluminum.

[epmedia]

I just scraped some silver off one of my fuse holders.
What's under the silver looks like brass.

I wonder if the silver is real silver? I bet it is

[msiert]

My GOD!...real silver, maybe by time you melt down all the silver, copper and brass in the car it would be worth $2,000 after all!

[msiert]

Just an update:

The aux fan switch is working like it use too. Yesterday it got in the mid 80's and the aux fan kick on when the temp got almost to the 3/4 mark. Today it got to 100F and I was running the a/c for part of the day later when driving without the a/c on the aux fan kick on right at the 5/8 mark like it used too.

Not sure what cause it start working again?

[320iAman]

Mine ran at 1/2 mark(3rd mark) for some time, Installed a fan shroud and now it runs above 2nd mark. The switch plug installed in the radiator bottom, its a thermal switch, there is 3 of them 82 deg C, 91 deg C, and 99 deg C switch, probably a bimetallic wire that bends to close contacts at or near the listed temperature. 80- 83 E21's, 1.8L did not come with fan shroud, special equipment.. the shroud fits the 360mm fan, 80-83 came with 400mm fans.

[Javidf]

I am having somewhat overheating issue in that the temperature tends to go past mid point after driving a few miles even when the radiator is full and outside temp around only 70F. Something new as such was not the case previously. Wondering if thermostat not opening fully or some air in the cooling system?

Despite full radiator, the dash board temperature gauge, lately, tends to go over the 12 O'clock mark. i.e 5/8 (although not 3/4) after the car is driven several miles and stays there. This is happening at the outside temperature of no more than 70 F. It is a bit unusual for my car in this weather.

There are 3 large hoses. The top (curved one) going from radiator to some part of the engine. The middle one is connected to part of the engine on one end and attached to the thermostat on the other end. The third one is attached to the thermostat on one end and connected to the bottom of the radiator on the other end. In addition there is a small hose that seems to be connected to the pump on one end and thermostat on the other end. My car's thermostat has 3 connection points.
The top and the bottom ones get hot when the temp gauge is approaching mid point. The middle one hot but not as much as the other two. Is this one too supposed to get as hot as the other two if the thermostat is functioning properly? I am under the impression that it is the bottom one that would get hot if the thermostat is opening fully. Just trying to understand.

[gsumzzz]

if original radiator, then time to consider a new one. they work wonders.

[Javidf]

if original radiator, then time to consider a new one. they work wonders.

My radiator is about 10 yrs old. Wondering if a little air(?) in the cooling system or thermostat need changing. If so, would probably get a lower F/Celcius one. Is it OK to get air out by simply taking the cap off and let the engine run in my driveway for a while? Even if it helps some this way. No hill around me. My radiator and thermo don't have a bleed screw.

[epmedia]

My radiator is about 10 yrs old. Wondering if a little air(?) in the cooling system or thermostat need changing. If so, would probably get a lower F/Celcius one. Is it OK to get air out by simply taking the cap off and let the engine run in my driveway for a while? Even if it helps some this way. No hill around me. My radiator and thermo don't have a bleed screw.

Turn the heater valve on full hot and squeeze the radiator hoses a lot. Be careful with the radiator cap removed (ie: don't burn yourself, especially if potential boil-over).

* And remember to never remove the radiator cap when the coolant is hot. Remove the cap when the coolant is cold so the coolant temp can be monitored well, while it's not under pressure.

fyi: I like to use a no-spill funnel when bleeding or diagnosing the cooling system.

[SilverPuddle]

Very informative conversations held in this post. I used the testing procedures yesterday and found that my cooling fan will come on when I jumper its wire connections. My cooling fan comes on with the AC...no problem. Therefore, I am ordering this cooling fan switch.

A lot of the parts in my 1982 e21 have never been replaced, so I have changed out all the usual suspects involved in making our cars overheat. Presently, my temp gauge reads consistency at the 1/2 mark...and just a hair over if it is sitting...WooHoo!

Thanks again to all of you who constantly help your fellow BMW owners to resolved our issues.

[ccbimmer1]

does your fan have a shroud? In Florida I hade the same problem I added a shroud and the temp. dropped back to normal. A new shroud cost me $65.00

[mxl556]

Just a note- later models (80-83) did not come with the shroud originally but came with a larger fan (400mm), a pulley spacer to move the fan closer to a radiator and a different water pump pulley.
77-79 models had a smaller fan (360mm) with a shroud, no spacer and different pulley. If you want to convert a later model to an early model setup correctly and add a shroud, you'd need a smaller fan from 77-79, a water pump pulley from 77-79 and a shroud itself. Just adding a factory shroud to a later fan will not work as it is just too big and won't clear the shroud. While I never compared waterpump pulleys, they are different and I suspect it is for a reason. Putting smaller fan and a shroud without replacing the pulley may have detrimental effect (I believe it does as I have tried it). I have never compared pulleys from 77-79 and 80-83, but I suspect that the early pulley may be smaller (and would spin the smaller fan faster to achieve the same cooling performance).