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Thread: The BMW DIY tool thread

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by das borgen View Post
    how exactly?
    First you have to get the metal core out of the RTAB. This can be a tricky operation to do. I'll do a little write up on it later but basically my dad took an electric drill, and we shredded the bushing all around core. Then we drove a brass punch down into the middle of the core so that it was jammed in there pretty well. Then with a pair of pliers twisted the core around in a circle so that it would tear free of whatever bits of the rubber bushing were still attached.

    After the core is pulled out get yourself a screw driver and some wedges and you have to drive the bushing up so that you could pass a screw driver underneath it. Then cut through that little arch you've formed with a reciprocating saw and you'll be able to slide the bushing out. Just go with UUC or Powerflex bushings afterward. You dont need any special tools to install them.

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=444801

  2. #27
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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brent 930 View Post

    That tool only works on E30's and E36 318ti. Doesnt work on E36 non 318ti's

  4. #29
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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brent 930 View Post
    Or build your own using the DIY here:

    http://www.bimmerdiy.com/diy/e36rtab/

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brent 930 View Post
    nope, it will not. At least not within the spirit of cheap of this thread
    -Rich-


  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by langley View Post
    First you have to get the metal core out of the RTAB. This can be a tricky operation to do. I'll do a little write up on it later but basically my dad took an electric drill, and we shredded the bushing all around core. Then we drove a brass punch down into the middle of the core so that it was jammed in there pretty well. Then with a pair of pliers twisted the core around in a circle so that it would tear free of whatever bits of the rubber bushing were still attached.
    To get that metal core out you could also just use a hole saw bit on a drill, should make real quick work of it. I'm guessing a 2 or 2.5" will do. I have an RTAB tool though so I just used that.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by hcaleman View Post
    To get that metal core out you could also just use a hole saw bit on a drill, should make real quick work of it. I'm guessing a 2 or 2.5" will do. I have an RTAB tool though so I just used that.
    When I replaced my rtab's, I used a drill with a .25" drill bit, drilled holes all the way around the core, then used a reciprocating saw to cut out the middle, and then cut out the outside of the rtab. Took about 40 minutes the first side, and 15 the second once I knew exactly what to do.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by hcaleman View Post
    To get that metal core out you could also just use a hole saw bit on a drill, should make real quick work of it. I'm guessing a 2 or 2.5" will do. I have an RTAB tool though so I just used that.
    Yeah, that would probably have been a much better method. Ours was less than elegant.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brent 930 View Post
    A for creativity and effort, fail for using Harbor Freight tools. After all you indicated your dislike for using poor quality tools.

    Buying a Bentley and making a fan clutch tool was your best ideas IMO.
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWMPow3r View Post
    +1, debating replacing mine. how would you reinstall them?

    Sorry guys, been dealing with a lot of person stuff recently.. Haven't been on the board for a long time here.

    You basically want the outer ring on the RTAB to collapse into the rubber. You start from the top, there is a slit in the RTAB, take your flat head, and aiming straight down on the thin metal on top, hammer a nice sized dent into it, until you can squeeze the flat head into the space you just made. Once the screw driver fits (mine fit in about 2-3 solid blows of a 5lb dead blow), then put the screw driver into that hole created, and using a brick or something holding the trailing arm from moving too much, whack the screw driver between the thin aluminum shell, and the counsel itself. I can remove RTAB`s in under a minute with this method.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
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  11. #36
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    Hmm, should i post up CAD drawings of my RTAB tools?.
    460whp/515wtq wifes MMW tuned 335i

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iJunkie View Post
    Hmm, should i post up CAD drawings of my RTAB tools?.
    Ummm....yes please. lol
    -Clark
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  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by langley View Post
    First you have to get the metal core out of the RTAB. This can be a tricky operation to do. I'll do a little write up on it later but basically my dad took an electric drill, and we shredded the bushing all around core. Then we drove a brass punch down into the middle of the core so that it was jammed in there pretty well. Then with a pair of pliers twisted the core around in a circle so that it would tear free of whatever bits of the rubber bushing were still attached.

    After the core is pulled out get yourself a screw driver and some wedges and you have to drive the bushing up so that you could pass a screw driver underneath it. Then cut through that little arch you've formed with a reciprocating saw and you'll be able to slide the bushing out. Just go with UUC or Powerflex bushings afterward. You dont need any special tools to install them.

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=444801
    Exactly how I did it, only i used a flat head screw driver, and a 5lb deadblow. Should take about a minute per side once the arm is dropped.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
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  14. #39
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    I am about to replace my vanos seals. I am going to make the cam locking tool and use the 1/4 inch extension for the flywheel lock. Wouldn't a pair of angled needle nose pliers work in place of the vanos tool? I havent messed with the vanos before. Thanks in advance
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  15. #40
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    I've designed several specialty tools for BMW's and have even had some prototypes made for my own use. If I could find a reliable manufacturing partner, I would love to try marketing them.

    Needless to say, given the spirit of this thread, my objective was and is to make them inexpensive enough for the DIY mechanic. They probably wouldn't hold up to a pro, but then again, a pro wouldn't be buying them!

    1998 ///M3/4/5 | 1999 528iT | 2003 Z4 3.0i

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brent 930 View Post
    A for creativity and effort, fail for using Harbor Freight tools. After all you indicated your dislike for using poor quality tools.

    Buying a Bentley and making a fan clutch tool was your best ideas IMO.
    I would (and have) used some of their tools, but the one tool I would not skimp on is the head bolt socket (E12 Torx). If you've ever torqued down the head bolts, you know the incredible force involved would surely damage or destroy a cheaply cast tool.

    As for the RTAB removal, forget the driver and hammer. Take a sawzall or jig-saw to that thing and cut the inner race and most of the outer race, then pound it out.

    ... or get a shop press from Harbor Freight and do all the bushings with it!

    The rest of the advice, excellent!

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  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by m2pc View Post
    I would (and have) used some of their tools, but the one tool I would not skimp on is the head bolt socket (E12 Torx). If you've ever torqued down the head bolts, you know the incredible force involved would surely damage or destroy a cheaply cast tool.

    As for the RTAB removal, forget the driver and hammer. Take a sawzall or jig-saw to that thing and cut the inner race and most of the outer race, then pound it out.

    ... or get a shop press from Harbor Freight and do all the bushings with it!

    The rest of the advice, excellent!

    I've replaced 3 head gaskets on that single E12 Torx. That is about 126 torque sequences done on that one socket. It has performed flawless for me so far.

    As for the RTAB, I've tried both ways. They both work. A 5lb hammer and a screw driver were WAY faster, not to mention less messy. I have a video of me doing it somewhere here. I did one of the trailing arms in about 30 seconds this way.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
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  18. #43
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    Dude, need to move your pics to another server, most not showing. Photobucket seems decent....

    John
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  19. #44
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    MauiM3Mania is offline Observer/Master Skeptic Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by JETninja View Post
    Dude, need to move your pics to another server, most not showing. Photobucket seems decent....
    Some things change, some stay the same.
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  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by JETninja View Post
    Dude, need to move your pics to another server, most not showing. Photobucket seems decent....
    Quote Originally Posted by MauiM3Mania View Post
    Some things change, some stay the same.

    Whoa, this has been a while. I'll try to find them and upload them when I get a moment.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
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  21. #46
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    I wish I would've seen this in 2014 during my turbo build. Interested to see some of the missing pictures. A homemade fan clutch removal tool would be nice. Sometimes the old wrench/hammer trick doesn't work...

  22. #47
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    good thread from the dead

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmw328m52 View Post
    I wish I would've seen this in 2014 during my turbo build. Interested to see some of the missing pictures. A homemade fan clutch removal tool would be nice. Sometimes the old wrench/hammer trick doesn't work...
    Honestly it's worth just buying the tool on ebay or amazon. This particular tool is really cheap. I uploaded the dimensions for the tool again.

    Thanks.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
    -Dr. Seuss
    DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hova View Post
    Honestly it's worth just buying the tool on ebay or amazon. This particular tool is really cheap. I uploaded the dimensions for the tool again.

    Thanks.
    Gracias senor.

  25. #50
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    Added a great tool for anyone doing a head gasket or swapping lifters/cam trays. I can't believe I didn't know about this before. It's not "free" but honestly it's cheap enough that I think it's worth every penny for the savings of frustration, plus it goes to a person that has helped this forum out immensely:

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-removal-tools
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
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