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Thread: LAD/self levelling elimination + LAD shock repair info

  1. #26
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    Bentley's has a table for LAD equipped cars as follows:
    Wheels Rear ride height
    15 in. 522 +/-3 mm (20.55 +/- 0.4 inches)
    16 in. 529 +/-3 mm (20.93 +/- 0.1 inches)
    17 in. 545 +/-3 mm (21.46 +/- 0.1 inches)

    Ride height is measured from the lower edge of the wheel arch to the bottom edge of the wheel rim (not the ground).
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    Bentley's has a table for LAD equipped cars as follows:
    Wheels Rear ride height
    15 in. 522 +/-3 mm (20.55 +/- 0.4 inches)
    16 in. 529 +/-3 mm (20.93 +/- 0.1 inches)
    17 in. 545 +/-3 mm (21.46 +/- 0.1 inches)

    Ride height is measured from the lower edge of the wheel arch to the bottom edge of the wheel rim (not the ground).

    Took a tape measure out to the car...measured as directed. I have 17" rims, BTW. Before I started the car, it measured right at 22" from the bottom of the quarter panel wheel arch to the bottom of the rim. AFTER I started the car, it raised up 1/4" to 22-1/4". Is that considered way too much?? Would that much of a difference cause my car to ride way too rough?

    Deja


  3. #28
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    Bentley says
    17 in. 545 +/-3 mm (21.46 +/- 0.1 inches)

    If it 'sinks' over night, you have have to re-adjust the zero point on the regulating valve, because it is either not 100% set to zero position, or the valve is leaking a little bit.
    Zero position is when you can stick a screw driver or pin thru the holes in the lever and the hole in the regulating valve, that is zero position and the valve is closed.
    So I would try to adjust it a bit if you want to have it 199% as per spec.

    But I assume that is not the reason that your car rides that hard, probably the bombs are dead and filled with Pentosin.

    You can test the bombs, but for that you have to disassemble/remove the hose connection to the bomb. Then stick a screwdriver or metal pin into the opening and push, if the screwdriver goes in, the 'bladder' is broken. The bladder has about 25 bar when intact, so there is no way to push a screwdriver in normally, unless it is broken.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  4. #29
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    Thanks Shogun!

    Deja


  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by mydejavooo View Post
    Just noticed that when I started my 740il today, the rear of the car raised up ever so slightly upon ignition....so I am assuming that the LAD system is working properly. Is that a correct assumption? Perhaps my "rock hard" rear end issues IS the result of improper adjustment of the rear strut assembly. Am I way off-base here?

    Deja
    Seems to me the bladder in the bomb controls the ride firmness if the bladder is bad the bomb cant work. The bladder must absorb the motion of the road without the bladder there is nothing to absorb the motion creating the stiff ride. That should be your answer ride height should not afect the ride unless the suspension is fully extended or fully compressed.

    I had 5 300zx's at 1 time

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by rossg View Post
    Seems to me the bladder in the bomb controls the ride firmness if the bladder is bad the bomb cant work. The bladder must absorb the motion of the road without the bladder there is nothing to absorb the motion creating the stiff ride. That should be your answer ride height should not affect the ride unless the suspension is fully extended or fully compressed.

    Makes sense to me. It stinks that they are SO expensive to replace. May just have to live with them for right now until I can either get new bombs or non-LAD struts and eliminate the self-leveling feature. If only money grew on trees. *sigh*

    Deja


  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by mydejavooo View Post
    Makes sense to me. It stinks that they are SO expensive to replace. May just have to live with them for right now until I can either get new bombs or non-LAD struts and eliminate the self-leveling feature. If only money grew on trees. *sigh*

    Deja
    you can try ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E...Q5fAccessories

    this guy has a left and a right http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-R...Q5fAccessories

    search around the average junkyard will either think they are worth nothing or a million dollars. try this site also www.car-parts.com it great for finding used auto parts locally. good luck

    I had 5 300zx's at 1 time

  8. #33
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    Bit of an old thread, but here goes.

    I have an ASC E38 .... recently the rear has become very 'bouncy' though just pushing on it does not cause repeated bounces. But going over a big bump ....... HOLD ON!

    Had thought I needed new shocks, which with the active system meant Obama stimulus levels of cash. But now I'm thinking it may be the bombs or regulator or ...

    Do these shocks fail in a way similar to traditional shocks and require replacement on a regular basis. Mine have over 100k miles on them. Or - are the shocks long life items and failures most often happen in the other components? How to tell .... ???

  9. #34
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    'bouncy': should be the defective
    LEVELLING DEVICE/PRESSURE ACCUMULATOR

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...54&hg=33&fg=50

    they are actually damping the shocks movement

    we have cut up an old LAD bomb and inside there is a youtube explaining how it works, have fun
    http://twrite.org/shogunnew/menu/funtop.html
    Last edited by shogun; 07-14-2011 at 01:41 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  10. #35
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    Yeah - it was your video that led me to suspect the bomb and ask the question.

    1. Do these shocks wear as regular shocks do, or are failures most likely the bombs or leveling switch?

    2. If I understand right, to inspect the bomb I need to disconnect the fitting and see if I can see the white plastic plug. No way to test w/o draining the system?

    3. I did a bounce test on the rear bumper - was not frozen up (nor did the car bounce repeatedly). But there was a nice squeak on the left side. What would you suggest for the next step in diagnosing this thing?

  11. #36
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    1. my LAD shocks lasted 20 years, then I replaced some O-Rings and they are back in use again.

    2. yes, hose has to be disconnected. BMW has a special testing equipment for that. The bombs 'bladder' has a pressure of about 25-30 bar. I usually stick a piece of metal inside the bomb where the white plastic piece is (on the E32 bombs) and try to push it in. If it can be pushed in, bladder is broken.
    As you have to lift the rear of the car, there will be almost no pressure on the bombs system in the hoses because the pressure is released inside the shocks, so even if you disconnect the hose from the bomb, not much Pentosin will be lost.
    That is from my E32 experience.
    3. do a bomb test like described under item 2 and check riding height. Riding height is shown in the E38 Bentley repair manual and depends on the wheels size. Maybe riding height is not correct
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  12. #37
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    where exactly is located the place where i have to make the U-line between feed and return line? like in mojo's E38 pic, but in E32?

    Quote Originally Posted by sunt View Post
    ah ok, so i make the U-connection at "B" in this pic?

    any one have a photo of how it should look like after its done?
    Last edited by DAHHN; 07-17-2011 at 02:09 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    OO=[ ][ ]=OO
    Quote Originally Posted by MCA View Post
    7er BMW > Econoboxes

  13. #38
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    bavauto says it:


    PROCEDURE:
    1. Disconnect the hydraulic hose, at each side, running between the rear shock and the accumulator(mounted to the rear inner fender well), at the accumulator.
    2. Remove the rear shock and spring assemblies complete with the upper mounts and hydraulic hoses.
    3. Remove the accumulators and the hydraulic hoses running from the accumulators to the distribution block. Remove the hydraulic hose running from the regulator to the distribution block.
    4. Disconnect the attaching lever and connecting link from the swaybar and the hydraulic regulator valve.
    5. Disconnect the pressure and return lines (coming from the engine driven pump) from the regulator and remove the regulator.
    6. The pressure and return hoses must be rerouted and connected together. This can be done using the supplied union connector (M10 x 1.0) at the ends of the hoses where they have been disconnected from the regulator (Figure 1 “A”) or further forward closer to the pump. The connection can be done at (Figure 1 “B”) using one of the existing union connectors and gently bending the hose and pipe (#1 & #2) andusing the union to connect them together. The hoses CAN NOT be simply plugged. This will damage the
    hydraulic pump, which also supplies the power steering and power brakes.
    7. Assemble the new springs, shocks and upper mount hardware from the Self-leveling Elimination Kit.
    8. Install the Spring/shock assemblies into the vehicle.
    9. Start the engine and check for leaks at the union of the pressure and return lines.
    ------------------
    so basically wherever you want between engine room and regulating valve on the rear axle, it just MUST circulate always.
    I have seen even someone routing it back from outlet power steering pump into the Pentosin container, selfmade hydrailic pressure hoses/pipes. Just remember!
    The power steering pump has a pressure of 140 bar, so a 'garden water hose' will definitely not hold long.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  14. #39
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    thanks Erich
    OO=[ ][ ]=OO
    Quote Originally Posted by MCA View Post
    7er BMW > Econoboxes

  15. #40
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    Can you just plug the output from the regulator, and perform the same function, therefore the fluid will "read" overpressure and return to the return line?
    Last edited by shogun; 04-20-2014 at 01:50 AM.

  16. #41
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    can also be done like that, if the regulating valve is still working and not leaking.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    can also be done like that, if the regulating valve is still working and not leaking.
    Sorry, was in the middle of suspension change, got it capped. Shogun Saved my butt mid change, now have standard springs on there.
    Last edited by Edthefanman; 08-05-2011 at 09:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  18. #43
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    This seems as good a place as any to bring this up. it appears that my car had LAD at one time, but has since been removed. I have not found the 'U' in the lines, but I do run 11S, and have actually seen the 'suspens level' warning. (when I first bought the car, it was serviced by someone else. I many have given the OK to remove it, but don't remember). Based on the evidence that I do or did have LAD, I have looked for the lever mounted to the rear sway bar and the lines to the struts and not found either.

    My question is that since I no longer have LAD, do I need to continue with 11S, or can I use something else? Would this require a different power steering pump? The reason I as is that I am in the process of trouble shooting a couple fluid leaks and maybe doing to major overhaul to the entire system - new lines and maybe a new steer gear box.
    Black on Black 740i - 10/92 build date, 225,000 miles.
    Delphin on Cherry 533i - 4/84 build date, 136,000 miles
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  19. #44
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    here is all info I collected over the years on LAD and EDC from 2007 till today, and if I find more I will add it there, that is my LAD/EDC bible
    http://www.7-forum.com/forum/24/komp...age-84467.html
    That is the German 7-forum, in case you cannot enlarge the posted pics, you first must register there.

    Here pics from the German E34 Forum where someone eliminated the LAD on his 530 V8 and made a U-turn pipe just under the left side front fender where these pipes go into the engine room, feed and return line.
    see pics here
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/418425

    and translate these step by step instructions

    aus dem E34 Forum:
    Schritt 1:
    Als aller erstes gilt es das Fzg. richtig zu sichern, und für festen Stand zu sorgen! (Wenn keine Bühne vorhanden)

    Schritt 2:
    Ist dies geschehen kann mit der Demontage des Rades vorne Links begonnen werden!

    Schritt 3:
    Dahinter dann den Innenradlauf und die Abdeckung entfernen die die Bremsleitungen verdecken.
    http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/8237/img0004ys.jpg
    Hinter den Verkleidungen findet ihr dann 4 Leitungen 2 Bremsleitungen und 2 Leitungen der Niveau!
    Zuerst müsst ihr sicherstellen, welches welche Leitungen sind!
    Bei mir gab es 2 Waagrechte und 2 Senkrechte!
    Die Waagrechten waren die Bremsleitungen und die Senkrechten die Niveauleitungen.

    Schritt 4:
    Markiert euch die Leitungen, und geht dann zurück ans Heck.
    Doert könnt ihr dann den Dämpfer samt Druckspeicher abmontieren. (Langsam Restdruck im System vorhanden! Leer laufen lassen)
    Dämpfermontage sollte ja klar sein!

    Schritt 5:
    Wenn ihr die Dämpfer demontiert habt, könnt ihr die Leitungen samt Ventil entfernen! Dieses sitz von der Fahrerseite aus gesehen über dem rechten Achsschenkel, und ist mit drei Schrauben fest! Man kommt aber gut hin!
    Wenn ihr alles abgebaut habt, sollte es so aussehen.

    http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/2760/img0011xv.jpg

    Schritt 6:
    Dann im weiteren Verlauf den Vor+Rücklauf der Niveauleitungen verbinden. Dazu könnt ihr ein Stück der ausgebauten Leitung verwenden.
    Am besten die Leitungen noch entrosten, und vor Korrossion schützen.
    (Mach ich auch noch )
    http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/5810/img0002fu.jpg
    Schritt 7:
    Dann wieder zurück ans Heck und unters Auto kriechen wenn keine Bühne/Grube vorhanden ist.
    Dann knöpft ihr euch den Radsturzsensor vor.
    Dieser befindet sich oberhalb des rechten Achsschenkels (Beifahrerseite)
    http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/6082/img0005fy.jpg
    Schritt 8:
    Wenn ihr diesen weggeschraubt habt, nehmt ihr euch ne 8er Nuss, und schraubt den Arm vom Sensor ab.(Der der vom Sensor zum Achsschenkel ging)
    http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/2673/img0008yea.jpg
    Schritt 9: Wenn ihr das "Ärmchen" vom Sensor abgeschraubt habt, justiert ihr den beweglichen Teil des Sensors in Mittelstellung.
    Dort ist eine durchgängige Bohrung vorhanden, in der ihr die Schraube fixieren könnt. (Aber nur in Mittelstellung)

    Schritt 10: Habt ihr das erledigt, baut ihr ihn wieder an und schliest ihn auch an! Sonst habt ihr die Meldung: Niveauregelung-Betriebsanleitung.
    Wenn ihr ihn wieder angeschlossen habt, macht ihr mal die Zündung an und benutzt die CC.
    Wenn ihr alles richtig gemacht habt, müsste euer CCM folgende Meldung bringen:
    http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/6772/img0003lq.jpg
    Schritt 11:
    Dann das Fahrzeug starten, und Testen ob alles dicht ist!
    Wenn dies der Fall ist, könnt ihr alles wieder zusammenbauen und eure Normalen Dämpfer einbauen.


    Ich hoffe das ich mit dieser Anleitung jemand helfen konnte,
    der das auch so realisieren möchte.

    Ps: Es gibt 3 Varianten, und Zwar:

    1 Nur die Dämpfer entfernen und dann am Druckspeicherausgang eine Blindschraube einschrauben. Schnellste und Günstigste Lösung.

    2 Alles bis vor zum Radlauf abbauen, und dann Vor+Rücklauf der Niveau verbinden. (So kann die Tandempumpe erhalten bleiben) Schnelle und günstige Lösung.

    3 Oder aber alles abbauen und eine Servopumpe ohne Niveaureg. verbauen. Teuerste und Komplexeste Lösung!

    Abgebaut habe ich:
    -Niveaudämpfer
    -Druckspeicher
    -Radsturzsensor
    -Regelventil
    -Alle Leitungen
    -Hebel der zum Regelventil führt.

    Verstärkte Federn HA 2x 33 531 138 721
    - Stoßdämpfer HA 2x 33521138669 oder 33521092278
    - Zusatzdämpfer 2x 33531135624
    - Schutzrohr 2x 31331134314
    - Federunterlage oben 2x 33531133670
    - Federunterlage unten 2x 33531133671
    - Domlager 2x 33521132270
    - Dichtung Domlager 2x 33521129567
    - Stützscheibe 2x 33521136-063
    - Sechskantschraube 2x 07119914829


    So das ist die Teileliste, die für den Umbau von Niveau auf Normalfahrwerk benötigt wird! (Bezogen auf E34 Touring)

    Eine Vorraussetzung ist aber, dass ihr eine manuelle LWR verbaut habt.
    Oder aber man rüstet sie nach!

    Verstärkte Federn sind nicht zwingend nötig,ich jedoch halte es von Vorteil.
    Last edited by shogun; 12-29-2011 at 10:45 PM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  20. #45
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    Replacing LAD with Bilsteins DIY
    http://twrite.org/shogunnew/upgrades...adreplace.html

    detailed write up with pics "Replacing LAD with Bilsteins"

    on my website added

    see on left on my website under NEW & Updated
    Last edited by shogun; 04-20-2014 at 01:52 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  21. #46
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    Hey shogun! SO the picture right here shows best. My problem is right before the circled B. Right before the metal hose on the right is the one that is leaking. It is most likely hose #1. Let me know!! PLEASE AND THANKS!

  22. #47
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    and here is probably what you are looking for at the rear
    http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3...wse/rear_axle/
    and this is power steering and self levelling stuff inside engine room
    http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3...owse/steering/

    I assume you need 10 posts or so. Anyway, use the parts catalog and you find what you need.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  23. #48
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    Yeah ive been looking at the same things just different site. I still cant find what my issue is. Thats why i was saying itd be easier for me to contact you somehow and send you the video so you can see what im talking about. Because none of these diagrams show my part thats leaking. ! IM STUCK ! Lol!

  24. #49
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    Lad removal

    I am removing the LAD on my 740il
    If you are making the metal return u line yourself to screw in before the valve, What do you need?
    Just a 5/16 steel line with matching fittings on the end?
    Have read all posts and it would be helpful to see a photo of the line prior on the bench.
    I can't really tell from the photo after it is already installed.
    Last edited by billbarr; 08-29-2012 at 11:23 PM.

  25. #50
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    I finally got the fittings loose, My snap on wrenches were at home and
    the new guys have harbor freight line wrenches that are worthless.
    I am just going to hose man tomorrow and get the female ends to make a metal U. The guy there is a little hard to deal with but he gets happy when you finally leave.
    It doesn't seem possible to make one out of the existing fittings.

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