We're actually fixing one with this same problem. Transmission error can throw out a check engine too. Valve body, or transmission computer. In this case it was the transmission computer.
Hi all;
my name is vincent from malaysia. Recently i purchased a 2008 730li with comfort access and faced with a problem of "deep" hibernation when the car is left for an extended period of time(4hours). Ie the comfort access door handle will not work. But the car will spring back to life at a press of the key fob. Also, the cd changer will keep reading the discs each time when i wake the car up and insert the key fob. And at times i am unable to turn the air con blower to its maximum. Below are the things which i have done but with no improvement;
1) replaced the faulty driver side door handle
2) change to a new battery and recoded.
3) replaced the power module
4) replaced the comfort access module
5) determined the amp rating when at sleep mode ie 0.03A
can anyone please advise what have i missed out. Any pointers will be very much appreciated.
Hey all, any idea what is that klicking noise?!
It's a 730d 2005
I got a little lost on the thread but if Kyle or another e65 tech is around, would appreciate the help here:
My rear sunshade broke like most do. The triangular plastic pieces that attached the retractable arms to the shade rail snap. Not only that, but the tips of the 2 support arms are plastic pieces as well, and one of them broke. I have found aluminum replacement pieces for the 2 triangular pieces and rivets ($120 repair kit) that ride inside the top rail BUT no luck on the support arms pieces. (Long story, but actually fabricated 2 triangular pieces by hand out of aluminum stock with files and hammer. Came out awesome, but then tips of arms snapped too)
Attached is a pic of the tip of one of the support arms. That piece has since snapped too. The rivet and remaining broken off triangular piece are still attached there. The aluminum piece in the pic is one of the 2 I fabricated by hand.
New sunshade assemblies are like $700 just for the part and there is zero chance I ever buy one for that. So, Have you seen any fixes for those arms/tips or ideas how to get to the manufacturer to investigate there? Otherwise, I'm disconnecting the switches to it and might just buy the clip on fitted shade for the back window as a semi-permanent install.
Thanks!
sunshade arm tip circled.jpgsusnshade rail slider metal replacement.jpg
Last edited by MontanaRob; 12-03-2014 at 02:26 PM.
1998 (9/97 production date) 540i 6 Speed Sport / black on black / shadow trim / debadged / black-out grill / Carbon fiber roundels / 80w Yellow Fogs / 2.81 non- lsd diff. / 17" BBS Sport Style 19 wheels/ 245 all around tires / modified CDV / Stage I Dinan software / 5w30 synthetic/ 244k miles and counting
E65 2007 Alpina B7: Black on Black, Supercharged autobahn eater, 500hp/515trq, 245/295 tires, 141k miles with major systems rebuilt/replaced!
HI people, Kile you are a genio, I admire you, because I like to do everithing with my car and you have the tolos for that,,men have a problema with my steering rack and pinion it have a play in a strait they say I need to change it,,,,,my car have 90K very keafully, I cannot beleave it was wrong,,,it was a very good car have a regulation...? its common to brake it, please tell me something....thanks
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Go inside back,rigth,,take out the chair up and to the front,,,,and ear if the noise come from the cover of the tank,,,inside it was the fuel bomb,,for some reason ,may be partielly cloged, it do te noise,,need tto change it or clean the line........tell me if we have a solution.....bye
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Go inside back,rigth,,take out the chair up and to the front,,,,and ear if the noise come from the cover of the tank,,,inside it was the fuel bomb,,for some reason ,may be partielly cloged, it do te noise,,need tto change it or clean the line........tell me if we have a solution.....bye
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First RESET ALL THE MODULES....and the sistems,, in some cases it solve the problems,them tray all funtions and read agaim, it show the module or sistema with truble....
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Define Mystery vehicle.......
Posting up in hopes that someone can give me some guidance. I have a 2008 750i, got engine malfunction warning lights and took the car to a local shop. The read the fault codes which corresponded to a bad throttle body position and recommended changing the throttle body.
I changed the throttle body myself to save some cash, and I know now I need to have the adaptions reset and the ECU cleared of codes. BUT, when driving it to the shop to have the reset done the DSC light came on, then when I parked the parking brake malfunction light came on.
Is this a result of not having all the codes cleared? Or is something else wrong?
Hello everyone,
My question of the day:
What is the normal idle rpm of the 745i?
I sometimes see it ideling steady around the 500 RPM, but also sometimes around the 750 RPM.
I noticed this when the motor was in normal operating temprature and I dont see any error in the ECU. Also I dont see it hovering between values, its either steady 500 or steady 750RPM.
Regards,
my 2003 745Li has 230,000 miles. the biggest problem is an oil gasket where the alternator is mounted to the engine. My alternator is water cooled and the gasket is there when they mount an oil cooler to the engine. The gasket dry rots over time. The gasket is less than $2.00 but the labor is outrageous. If you are handy, you can do this job. It takes 40 hours, engine jacks, A frame hoist....If you drive this car only for local use and not every day this gasket will deteriorate very quickly. If you check the manuals for this car, they assume the engine is out of the car for this repair...NOT a good assumption.
E65 non CAS won't lock from remotes. All other functions are fine.
Any clues pls?
Hi, Kyle. I have a problem with my 2006 750li...Had valve covers changed,Now check engine light is on and seems to flutter when trying to excelerate.I have a message that reads,vtc2 valvetronic 2.program number in control unit;7575654.Not compatible with this vehicle....Hope you can help with this...
Hi Kyle, I have a 2004 E66 which had an issue with the abs/stability/park brake and engine lights turning on after driving the car for only 5 to 10 minutes. To fix the problem, I sent out my abs module for repair and after getting back and reinstalling it the problem went away.
Now what I'm having to deal after reinstalling the abs module is the brakes don't seem to feel like they used to. What happens is whenever I'm slowly coming to a full stop or rolling downhill as I coming to a stop. The brake pedal goes all the way to the floor and it the feedback from the pedal is very "limp." It's like all the boost from the braking system was pushed out.
I've taken the car to two different independent shops to have the system bled. Both times when I got the car back, the situation only improved any slightly. Has anyone had this same experience when they dealt with the abs warning light issue? If so, how did you resolve the problem? If not, does anyone have any idea what might be causing this problem?
Thanks,
I had the same problem on my 2004 745li.
first it had a non agm battery in it that was a total headache after the first 6months of having it.
These cars are almost a must to have a AGM battery which is deep cycle among other things.
Also mine was pulling down the battery overnight.
I diagnosed it to the auto trunk system. I pulled out the 50 amp fuse in the trunk relating to the trunk system and ...BAM all drainage disappeared.
The only thing is that you have to lift the trunk to open fully.
Hope this helps ya!
Tim
I have installed custom LED lights where the old fog lights use to be. However as I have imported my 2006 e66 from the US to Canada and must have daytime running lights. I wired the new led lights into the head headlights then had the dealership activate the daytime running lights from the computer. But due to the daytime headlights using low voltage the they leds strobe. So an easy fix would be to wire the LEDs to something near the front of the car that gets power as soon as the ignition is turned on. any one familiar with any of the wiring at the front of the car that gets juice when the car is on and kills it when you turn it off? obviously non of the lights because they have to be manually turned on.
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2002 E65 745i head gasket issue?I have a 2002 745I, 167K miles on it. the engine was overheated 5K miles ago and now is drinking radiator fluid. When I drive around town the consumption is very little. When I get to highway speeds 70 MPH and then slow down to where the tach is below 2K it starts to run rough and steam out the tailpipe. I went on a trip of 3K miles and as long as I kept going I had not problems. After each tank to refuel at 500 miles or so I slowed to get gas and then had the loss of fluid. I would vent the radiator, fill with water( water because I don't want to plug my Cat), and get gas and go another 500 miles. No overheating, just low radiator warning. Gas mileage was still 26 mpg highway. Not sure why the RPM drives the leak, but thinking it might be solved with some head gasket repair in a bottle. Has anyone tried this and had it work? Definitely willing to spend $50 to fix a leak, but seems too simple and do not want to plug other small openings or hoses.
I just replaced all the valve seals (bitch of a job, but did not have to remove the heads/cams) and rather not call the car toast. Willing to do a head gasket replacement if I have to but wanting some input on the head gasket repair in a bottle.
Value facts vs opinion on this. Thanks in advance for your assistance!
Good afternoon, Kyle
I have a 2007 750Li (E66). I've got a mystery I'm trying to solve involving the Comfort Access Keyless entry system. ...I know, I know. You are all rolling your eyes, because EVERYONE OF THESE CARS has problems with the CA system. Sadly I have experienced most of them. But this one has me stumped. So, I thought I'd throw it out in the ether and see if you folks have any experience / advice. Sit back, while I bring you up to speed:
I've owned this car since 2010 (one previous owner, from dealership). At that time all CAS systems functioned properly. in 2014 the keyless entry Comfort Access feature stopped working on the drivers door, due to the broken wires inside the handle that is all-too-common. I repaired the wires (and added some safety length so the wires aren't in such duress). All was well again. Then about a year ago (mid 2015) all four doors CA entry stopped working. After much research, I concluded, due to a low battery, the Power Management module had deactivated the CA system (this is one of the first systems the Power Mgt module shuts down when it feels your battery may discharge). I replaced and re-registered the new battery. But, the CA doors did not come back to life.
While running through several diagnostic procedures, I discovered that the CAS module doesn't appear to be "on", because, after the car "goes to sleep", when I approach the car with the key-fob, the seat-adjust button does NOT illuminate. FYI, this is an indicator that the CAS module has detected the key-fob proximity.
Most posts I've seen on this subject indicate that the CAS system (among others) reactivates on its own after a battery registration. ??
So, that's my tale (sad but true). Any insight (or commiseration) is appreciated.
RE: Tolerances of wheel speed difference between front and rear wheels for ABS/DSC/DTC system
My friend picked up a 02 745i with around 160k miles that needed some TLC.
I replaced the headlight ballast and the ABS control module was sent out for repair. Next will be to fix the passenger airbag/restraint fault and why the steering wheel controls don't work.
My question is related to the tire sizes. Front vs rear allowable speed difference before error or the system to malfunction.
The stock tire sizes are 245/45r19 front and 275/40R19 rear that calculate to be zeroed out or revs match at any speed.
We had found a deal on some Pirelli tires that are 245/35R19 front and 285/30R19 rear that calculate to have a 0.4% difference in speed. (70-80 mph vs 70.3-80.3 mph)
Is that enough to trigger the sytem to malfunction or deactivate completely?
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Where'd you get the bumper from?
Last edited by Bimmerman4ever; 09-29-2016 at 10:30 AM.
Hello all:
I m new here, I own a 2002 745i, bought the car as a CPO at 2003 with 11k miles on it. since it was a CPO so most works and maintenances were done by the dealer. the factory warranty were up for few years now. and there are some problems with transmission now I think. there is some weir noise almost like metal grinding sound, after good 30 mins drive after the car fully warm up,took it to a BMW specialist, was told the torque converter went bad, he charge $1800 to rebuilt it, and was told by another mechanic (owner of the shop) that lots time tranny need to be rebuilt after few weeks. I think they were guessing don't really know where really are the problems. PLEASE HELP ME OUT HERE, IF YOU KNOW WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM, THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOU HELP!
Is the grinding noise happening at different speeds and or at idle? And does it shift poorly? From my experience typically grinding noises from any BMW I have owned was a failing center support bearing on the drive line. The only experience I had with an E65 is my friend's 02 745i. When he bought it off the used car lot shortly after it wouldn't shift properly. After I did a tranny fluid and filter change it shifted great. (I think he has about 150k miles on it)
I suspect whomever tried to change his fluid before did not fill it up to the proper level. You're suppose to fill it cold, then bring it up to normal temp and pump more in. Then go through the gears slowly with the brake on (car is level on jack stands). Then pump more in until it overflows from fill spout.
I'm not sure what you mean that owner of shop said; "tranny needs to be rebuilt after a few weeks" though. If something went bad after a rebuild they need to supply you with another new tranny free of charge.
I had bought a 92 Mercedes 500SL that a shop put another tranny in almost two years prior. After another fluid service (I found out later on inspection) they had dropped a piece of a cap seal (aluminum?) in with the fluid. It jammed up the governor and ruined the tranny. The shop denied any error and ignored any warranty to do it again. I was lucky and contacted the supplier of the transmission and they furnished a rebuilt one free of charge (Since the warranty was 2 years). All I had to do was the labor.
Last edited by Bimmerman4ever; 02-02-2017 at 10:07 AM. Reason: grammar/spelling
I have a 06 750Li and it drives well (sometimes its a little clumsy as I slow to a stop and it downshifts) until it has gotten warmed up. At that point from a stop the transmission revs to about 1500-2000 rpms and then slams into gear when I try to go. If I stop the car it seems like I can hear the oil bubbling. Is it likely that I need an oil cooler for the tranny or should i be getting some kind of fault code for excessive temp? Only fault code I have is 4f90.
Could be one of two things. Conductor plate on valve body needs replacement or the torque converter is bad. Unfortunately the E65 is prone to having more issues vs it's predecessor the E38. If it was me I would sell the E65 and purchase a low mileage well maintained E38 740/750iL. Though just an opinion from experience of owning and maintaining both cars.
Great deal. I'd have them replace the trans with a good used or refurb'd unit with warranty and have them test the electronic shift lever on the steering column. Hopefully the motor to the electronic park brake is working properly also and the plastic cog wheel inside in not broken. Another common problem. Oh and if it ever breaks down on you and need to tow, to get it to disengage the trans you pull the key from the keyfob and unlock a panel on the knee bolster (left side). There you can access a cord that you pull to release the transmission since it's electronic and not mechanical like the E38.
I've Got a 2006 750Li and i want to install the factory in-dash (by glove box) BMW CD changer. I know how to install but do not know how to interface the changer to audio or factory Radio/CD player. There does not appear to be a cable to connect to.
Any help will be appreciated
Thanks
I have a 03 bmw 745li and i have replaced the battery and the alternator both are new now i start it an get a Generator Default with a battery light on my dash and it is also in my Idrive. This is my 3rd alternator my 1st went up the second one was a bad alternator and now this 3rd one is new and so is the battery. Shop says it is charging fine and he dosnt knwo what is wrong. He did state the 2nd alternator burnt up because a wire was loose, he stated he fixed that when he put the new alternator on n says it is charging just fine, i am lost. I have droped over 1000.00 in repair alone and 1000.00 on battery and alternators so im stuck
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