I'm basically replacing the whole front end except shocks and springs. I'm doing the control arms, tie rods, rotors, pads, and hubs with bearings. Sure she will handle better and feel better when I'm done but not a single part has come off easy. Yeah its 20 years old but come on this bitch will not cooperate. Then when this is done I still need to fix my odometer, figure out why my front door won't lock, install a radio, and figure out which sender in my gas tank is bad. I'm wondering if this thing is ever going to get on the road. If anybody is near Fort Myers, FL and wants to come help, please be my guest.
Having the right tools makes this job a lot easier. To me that includes a stubby 22mm box end wrench, a heavy duty ball joint press, a two or three jaw puller (for the inner bearing race) and lollipop, and either access to a press or a bushing kit for CAB.
The fuel level sensor problem should be easy to diagnose. Pull a sensor and check its resistance with the sensor upright (should be 60 ohms) and upside down (should be 0 ohms). If the door won't lock/unlock with the key, the operator on the cylinder is probably broken. If it works with the key and from inside, but not electrically, the operator or wiring is at fault.
The odometer probably just needs new gears.
The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
Yeah I basically know how to fix everything but its pissing me off. Just wanted to rant
Tell us what exactly is giving you a problem and we might be able to give you a few pointers.
Do you have a pickle fork? It helps BIG TIME for removing ball joints from the car.
If your ball joint is spinning with the nut, put a jack underneath it and let all of the weight of the car sit on it. It will stop spinning and you can get the nut off.
The passenger side inner ball joint is a pain, but just take it slow. The only way to do it seems to be removing the passenger side engine mount bolt, and lift the engine a few inches. Then turn it with a 22mm wrench. Maybe you can find a ratcheting 22mm wrench that is slim enough to fit over the bolt, yet have clearance from the motor mount.
My 2 most important tools are hammer and blow torch. Alot of bolts come off easy as once they have been heated up a bit. And with the bushes you are replacing them anyway so just melt them out.
It just sounds like the usual old E30 stuff. Just quit bitching and grind through it all. When you get it straightened out it'll be worth all the trouble.
Matt
'89 325is - Spec E30 #256
'90 325i - Driver
'98 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 5-speed
'08 Acura TL Type S
“Straights are just the boring bits that join the corners.” -Stirling Moss
Right after I bought my car, I decided the change out the brakes and it took me a weekend or two to get the car straightened out. It takes some time to get any used car's maintenance straightened out to a point that is known and you're comfortable with.
Agree with MattH - one thing at a time and it'll be worth it in the end.
Good luck!
Quick question re: Passenger side control arm. My '89is has easy access to the center 22MM nut, but my '87 vert does not. Saw mention of a stubby wrench. I was thinking bigger would be better to ensure that the new one would be good an tight when I put it back together. Is space limited for a longer open end wrench? Can seem to gain access even with short socket and bunch of extensions. May lift engine if needed.
Thanks!
2011 M3 Sedan
2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD LBZ
1999 323i GTS2
1995 M3 - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is
1989 M3 - S54B32/GS6-37BZ
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo
Hers: 1989 325iX
The easiest way to avoid this trouble is to simply not do all the crap unless you have to.
I see a lot of e30 owners go out, buy a car, and do a whole bunch of maintenance that they don't have to for what appears to be no reason whatsoever.
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