Jason
How did you know your CCV needed replacement? Was this PM or did your CCV fail? What are the symptoms of a failing CCV?
Thanks
Tim
Did you read the above?
In my case, I could hear a hissing sound when accelerating, burning oil, poor performance, and gunky hoses.
You can check the CCV hoses and oil dipstick for goop.
That's always a sign.
And, it is not a matter of 'if' the CCV fails, it's a matter of 'when' it fails.
The CCV a is BAD design/ over-engineered part that WILL fail, even with the new cold-weater CCV.
However, I think driving technique (not drive like an old lady), type of oil/ 5k-7.5k interval changes, and the new oil dipstick tube design can all help to prevent the CCV from failing.
Bimmfiver's example of a failed CCV, and what can happen:
Towed for the 1st time - P1373, P0171, P0174 ( 1 2)
bimmerfiver
Another great thread by JackCat559:
For God's Sake There's A Service Bulletin About This ( 1 2)
Jackcat559
Last edited by Jason5driver; 03-30-2011 at 01:23 PM.
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
Jason, you linked my other meltdown of my car this past winter lol. Bad timing for my car. The link above references axle-ish, rear diff-ish, transmission-ishy meltdown.
Here is what occured earlier in the winter and I believe my CCV was the direct cause:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1596455
Replaced CCV. Replaced all six coils for shotgun therapy.
"I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread
A properly functioning CCV will maintain a vacuum of 10 - 15 millibar in the crankcase at idle per BMW. If your feel any pressure from the dipstick tube or the oil fill port, it has failed. If you feel anything more than miniscule vacuum, the same.
For an accurate check, a slack tube manometer is easily jury-rigged with some clear plasitc tubing and water. A vacuum of 4 to 6 inches of water column corresponds to the millibar spec. Outside that, problems are brewing.
I checked mine last October & got 9 inches. I decided it was close enough for a while until the spring & warmer. Wrong in spades. By January I had a brutally rough idle and the CEL on with 10 misfire and lean codes. Vacuum was 100 millibar. A new CCV and 4 hoses got me back to "check tach to see if the engine is running" and a vacuum reading of 4 1/2 inches water column.
Regards
RDL
pictures ?
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
Try ebmwparts.com for $132. Dipstick guide tube is not really cold whether or not cold weather. It was just a redesign from a service information bulletin (SIB) with those going to the stealer for warranty work on repeated clogged CCVs. A little over a year ago those tubes for $200+ even from the cheapest stealerships. I ponied up for it.
ebmwparts.com, Peabody BMW of MA, doesn't rape you with handling fees and what not with what Tischer and Faulkner pull. Peabody will probably just charge you about $12 for this and no other BS. Stick to your Tischer if you keep on wanting to be bent over. Just my $0.02, for saving you money.
YIKES! I changed the CCV and the 2 hoses in under an hour by removing the airbox and moving some wires. Is a single VANOS 1997 528 that much easier? If so, than I'm glad I have it...
2002 Schwartz II 530 5spd Sport Premium
2011 X5 35i
1966 Mustang f/b longterm project
1996 Malibu ski boat
9 1968-73 2002s, all gone......
1995 530i w/4.4 conversion (sold).
1985 535i w/mods, sorely missed.
BMWCCA member #110881
He who dies with the most toys, wins....
I found this awesome thread with some interesting info...!
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...7#post13417197
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
"Turn the S hose back so that it is parallel the ground, which then allows you to twist connect to the CCV."
I need to get this right before I break something. What have they done to BMW with all this plastic?
All I have to do is bring the CCV valve to a parallel and pull it? What did you do to hold the tube in place? I need to twist remove. This one is driving me crazy. It has been hours and it's a back killer.
Nice write up by the way. A great deal of information.
Thanks!
Last edited by MaitreG; 09-17-2011 at 05:42 PM.
I've got a whole thread on this problem in the General Mechanical section, but on the specific topic of the dipstick design, I recently chopped up my old one to replicate the new style. A few relevant tidbits:
- The piece is entirely overbuilt. The tack welds are simply an artifact of the manufacturing process; the unit is actually held together and sealed by brazing. There are significant areas of very solid brazing at the top and around the "vent" hole.
- The vent hole isn't, at least in that it doesn't vent the CCV drain at all. It is pinched down between the inner and outer sections and brazed together at that point. This makes the drain for the CCV even smaller than it looks at the bottom. As an interim measure, one could drill through the existing hole through the inner and outer sections opposite it, which would at least provide a vent for the CCV drain relatively high on the guide tube.
- Taking it apart is a pain. I cut it in two places: just below the join between the inner and outer sections, and at the vent hole. The vent hole area needs to be ground away (or heated hot enough to release the brazing) and rewelded. Since you are retaining the outer sleeve and removing the inner, you wouldn't want to remove the brazing connecting the two. Make sure to ream or grind the remnant of the inner sleeve smooth or the dipstick will catch on it when trying to pull it out.
The end result, however, gives a clear path for the CCV drain to the oil pan. I was surprised by how much crud was still in between the two sections, given that I had cleaned with manually, with brake cleaner, and high pressure compressed air not long ago. The original is a truly awful design. It remains to be seen if my oil consumption is reduced, but I'm satisfied the drain is far clearer than it ever was, even when new.
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
Thanks a lot for taking the time to take and post the pictures! Mine will be close to the 100k mark next spring and I've been thinking about doing a ccv then.
Prior vehicles in order of appearance:
1960 Corvair
1956 Cadillac
1966 Ford Galaxie 7 Litre
1974 Toyota Celica GT
1984 Ford Ranger
1965 Corvette
1993 Plymouth Duster
1994 Ford F150
1998 Dodge 1500 Laramie
2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2008 Honda Civic
2002 BMW 525i Blue Water Metallic, sport and premium packages
Just a little update...
I recently talked to one of my local mechanics, and found out what they do to remedy the poorly designed dip-stick tube...
I will make a sketch, and take a picture of what they do/ did for the fix.
The fix makes a LOT of sense, and should prevent any future blockage of within the (2) inner tube weeps.
I am very excited to get this done/ fixed, and it should be very easy for anyone to do too!
Thanks!
Jason
Last edited by Jason5driver; 12-15-2011 at 06:48 PM.
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
So post already that design, will ya?
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
Stable: e92is, e53 N62, e46M54B25, Tribby & e39 M54B30 R.I.P.
So all the cold weather package ccv and hoses do is prevent it from freezing by being insulated?
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
Stable: e92is, e53 N62, e46M54B25, Tribby & e39 M54B30 R.I.P.
his mechanic is busy
How about a description?
Steve
2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads/M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar
BMWCCA Member #337964
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