CCV Replacement FYI - M54

[pj530i]

I know it isn't the dipstick tube o-ring. I took that out, cleaned it and put it back. It's much larger than the one I found.

[BaltimoreBimmer]

I just replaced my CCV and pretty much every o-ring and do not recall that one outside of the injector which you didn't remove. My only guess is the dipstick.

[Jackcat559]

Done and done. 2 guys (myself and Jackcat) did it in about 3 hours. We removed the intake and replaced ALL the o-rings and rubber gaskets. Its not all the difficult, just take your time and mark everything you disconnect.

Thanks again! Enzo loved his gift.

How could you not have been excited!

It realy wasn't that bad at all, with two guys, and some mechanical skill.

We could have shaved off an easy 20 minutes, if it weren't for that b@$t@rd 16mm bolt holding the intake in place. You came up with the best solution to access (find) it, by removeing the throttle body first.

Thought you might punch me in the face if I mentioned the blue tape again

Glad to here Enzo likes his gearhead bear

[Jason5driver]

Any idea where this o-ring is from? It's very clean and dry, so it may be from the new ccv?

I got the new CCV in with the S hose connected, but I want to figure out what this is before I continue.

HELP

The O-ring is probably from the cold-weather CCV insulated jacket.
The tiny O-rings hold the jacket together, like buttons.
However, they pop off easily.

[BaltimoreBimmer]

w/o the blue tape I would have been walking home.

[pj530i]

The O-ring is probably from the cold-weather CCV insulated jacket.
The tiny O-rings hold the jacket together, like buttons.
However, they pop off easily.

That makes a lot of sense. I remember seeing half circles on each side of the seam between insulation halves and wondering what they were for. Also I noticed that the seam was opening a bit as I jammed the ccv into place.

I think I'm going to call it case closed for several reasons.
1. The found o-ring was almost certainly new
2. Nothing I removed or installed had a place where such an o-ring would fit
3. I couldn't find any references to an o-ring of that size on any realoem diagrams.
4. Your ccv jacket explanation
5. The car is running better than before I replaced the ccv

[champaign777]

ya Jason right

now i remember - there are 5 or 6 small o-rings which hold CCV jacket together

Good found !

[porksoda]

great write up... i have been trying to do part of this and wanted to start up before the parts got here... it would be either myself doing it or i would suck it up and take it in shop and pay for labour.

I am starting to take things off and i thought might as well clean the icv and tb ... In my car all the clamps are placed in such a way that the screws face down... the dealership must have done that a while back i don't remember what i got done for it to be like that.

- I have removed the air box & disa valve.
- I was trying to remove the icv and i see from the pictures above (post 1) that its inserted into another pipe on the intake.
- I assume i would be able to take tb out easier if i had the icv out.

Any hints on how to do this... i did remove the torx screws from the plate and was able to remove the nut and separate the plate from the electrical box's vertical metal plate.

At this point i am a bit stuck as to how to remove the icv... should i yank it out or use a tool to pry it out? I don't really want to damage the intake so need some advice from all of you who have done this.

thanks

[Jason5driver]

great write up... i have been trying to do part of this and wanted to start up before the parts got here... it would be either myself doing it or i would suck it up and take it in shop and pay for labour.

I am starting to take things off and i thought might as well clean the icv and tb ... In my car all the clamps are placed in such a way that the screws face down... the dealership must have done that a while back i don't remember what i got done for it to be like that.

- I have removed the air box & disa valve.
- I was trying to remove the icv and i see from the pictures above (post 1) that its inserted into another pipe on the intake.
- I assume i would be able to take tb out easier if i had the icv out.

Any hints on how to do this... i did remove the torx screws from the plate and was able to remove the nut and separate the plate from the electrical box's vertical metal plate.

At this point i am a bit stuck as to how to remove the icv... should i yank it out or use a tool to pry it out? I don't really want to damage the intake so need some advice from all of you who have done this.

thanks

I can't remember if there are 2 screws that hold the ICV in place.
I don't think there are.
I know for sure you have to PULL the ICV out really hard out of the grey rubber seal connected to the engine.
You have to turn it and pull hard to try to get the ICV out.
There ICV tube inserted in the grey rubber thing has a small metal hook-lip.

[porksoda]

I can't remember if there are 2 screws that hold the ICV in place.
I don't think there are.
I know for sure you have to PULL the ICV out really hard out of the grey rubber seal connected to the engine.
You have to turn it and pull hard to try to get the ICV out.
There ICV tube inserted in the grey rubber thing has a small metal hook-lip.

thanks.

Looks like the dealership when replaced whatever at the manifold put all the clamps facing downwards so i have to cut them to remove the boot. I will wait for new ones to come before i tackle this.

Here is my dilema and please correct me or give me suggestions but my logic is this.

From other threads here i found a good hint on how to test for ccv failure or intake leak failure.

When the engine is started and you open the engine block oil lid (710 laughs) if the engine remains same then i have an intake leak or ccv is blocked/shot. If the engine rpms flutter or the car tries to adapt to the leak then no intake leak and no ccv blocked.

I removed the hose that goes from ccv to valve cover and there was no mayo material just a bit of gunk that looks like oil.

I have a whistle that happens anywhere from 1400-2500k and it for sure sounds like a intake leak somewhere.

Is it possible the ccv is fine and there is an intake leak either at the boot level which i have checked with my fingers and seems to be ok or at the distribution piece or perhaps one of the pipes for ccv is cracked?

[porksoda]

thanks.

Looks like the dealership when replaced whatever at the manifold put all the clamps facing downwards so i have to cut them to remove the boot. I will wait for new ones to come before i tackle this.

Here is my dilema and please correct me or give me suggestions but my logic is this.

From other threads here i found a good hint on how to test for ccv failure or intake leak failure.

When the engine is started and you open the engine block oil lid (710 laughs) if the engine remains same then i have an intake leak or ccv is blocked/shot. If the engine rpms flutter or the car tries to adapt to the leak then no intake leak and no ccv blocked.

I removed the hose that goes from ccv to valve cover and there was no mayo material just a bit of gunk that looks like oil.

I have a whistle that happens anywhere from 1400-2500k and it for sure sounds like a intake leak somewhere.

Is it possible the ccv is fine and there is an intake leak either at the boot level which i have checked with my fingers and seems to be ok or at the distribution piece or perhaps one of the pipes for ccv is cracked?

yup intake boot that goes to tb and icv was cracked... a little less intake leak but not 100%.

Is there a way to see/test my CCV?

[champaign777]

Do it , no questions after 80k miles
Mark has the best prices on cold weather CCV

Jason , your thread will never die LOL

[Jason5driver]

Do it , no questions after 80k miles
Mark has the best prices on cold weather CCV

Jason , your thread will never die LOL

Yes, I know...

[Edgy99]

Nope, it never will die! Thanks for such good info.

I'm not going near this job, but I'm having my indie do it. And I need to school up, and he's cool that I buy the parts.

[Jason5driver]

Nope, it never will die! Thanks for such good info.

I'm not going near this job, but I'm having my indie do it. And I need to school up, and he's cool that I buy the parts.

It's really not THAT hard, just time consuming.
It helps when you have pictures, and have a little heads-up about the S-hose connection.

[240sxguy]

Found some schmooze under my oil cap last night. It's been cold and my car is not driven on short drives. Typically 25 minutes each way to work. My car has been making a sound that almost sounds like a wooo sound, sounds like CCV time.

Thanks for the thread, it's helpful.

Evan

[MehMan]

Also, the job is not as daunting as it seems at first, if you practice assembling the parts on a bench you'll get a feel of how they're supposed to go. The biggest problem for me was taking off all the old hoses.
Doing the oil filter housing gasket while you're at it helps access and you do two jobs at once.
And as always, take it easy and be methodical. Don't over-tighten anything. Once it's tight, it's fine. Don't fall for the "one more turn and I'm done" trick.

[gnilson]

Just 1 more post (can't let a good thread die and I need to subscibe to it).

After I do my rear ball joints, I will be looking at this job, however I have no history on this car. It looks like it already has the cold weather CCV and I can't find any yellow crud, but there is definitely a cracked hose to the CCV, so I guess there's nothing to do but have a go at it. I just hate doing a job that's already been done before. Sigh...

Geoff

[ebolean]

how do you subscribe to this thread. i just found it and need to replace the ccv on my 2002 525i wagon

[ebolean]

Hi,

I want to replace ccv on 2002 525i wagon. do you have to get under the car to replace it or can you do it from the top?

Thank you,

Bob

[genuity]

I want to replace ccv on 2002 525i wagon. do you have to get under the car to replace it or can you do it from the top?

From the top.

[cals]

great write up; i replaced the ccv recently but was not aware of the air distribution piece; i'm doing some work inthe engine and was wondering how easy or which are the steps to just remove and clean this part.

[genuity]

great write up; i replaced the ccv recently but was not aware of the air distribution piece; i'm doing some work inthe engine and was wondering how easy or which are the steps to just remove and clean this part.

4 screws hold it down. Remove the two CCV hoses connecting to it and pull up. It will be a little hard because all those years the O-rings have been making a good seal with the intake manifold and baking into it with the heat cycling.

You will probably waste more cans of carb cleaner than what it is worth, so you may as well buy a new one. It is also glued together and I am not sure how good that glue will hold with using solvents. The intake manifold held together although there was lots of ways for solvents and water to escape when cleaning it, compared to that distribution piece.

[bimmerfiver]

great write up; i replaced the ccv recently but was not aware of the air distribution piece; i'm doing some work inthe engine and was wondering how easy or which are the steps to just remove and clean this part.

See my thread/pics in the DIY Section above:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1250641

[champaign777]

just to keep this thread up to date
here is BMW Service Information Bulletin regarding CW CCV