correct. insulated for protection against freezing.
I am sorry.
I was not trying to confuse anyone by suggesting to buy the ccv cold-weather KIT.
I guess I should have specified the exact hoses to order with the KIT.
I thought this could have been found by referencing the KIT's hoses to the diagram on Real OEM.
What is in question?
I am definitely NOT the king of anything.
Just ask my wife.
Yep, those are it!
And, yes, hose #6 is included WITH the KIT.
It is a small hose cap plug hidden under the insulation.
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
my friend from BMW department told me that even cold wheather CCV will not totally solve this issue and i need a new type of Dipstick #9
The new type dont have small pipe inside dipstick ( where o-ring #12 ) which was the main issue for yellow crud
now ask how much it cost ... ~200$ what the crappppp
see BMW #11437565437
still not decided to buy it or not ... what guru's say ?
Mark do you have this new Dipstick and if yes how much it costs ?
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manifold is off
CCV is off
now i have space to work also on oil filter gasket
Last edited by champaign777; 04-27-2010 at 07:54 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
yes
and on the m54 this job does suck. I'm helping a buddy with his soon and am not looking forward to it. Lucky enough, he's a pretty cool guy to waste an afternoon with
HOLY SMOKE! That dip stick is $251 from Pelican
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...I1.x=9&I1.y=11
Hey champaign777 do you have a a closer shot of the black & white check valve at the rear of the intake manifold? I'd like to double check mine is oriented correctly. Thanks
Last edited by Jackcat559; 04-29-2010 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
You're friend is right and wrong. He is right that the cold weather CCV and pipes will not totally solve the problem because it does not eliminate the oil vapor condensation on surfaces in cold weather. The insulation helps to reduce the level of the problem by reducing the condensation but does not eliminate it. I don't think the new dipstick will change much. The problem (clogging) is due to oil vapors condensing on the inside walls of the CCV and the various pipes when repeatedly driving short distances in cold weather. The repeated short drives in cold weather do not allow the engine to heat up long enough to allow the condensed oil vapors to drain back into the sump. They end up building up on the walls of the CCV and pipes as the yellow mayo everyone finds. The best solution is to take longer drives to allow the engine to warm up long enough to allow the condensed vapors to drain into the sump.
BTW, someone on the other forum removed his oil filter housing, instead of the manifold or air distro piece, to improve access to the CCV. I left it and the manifold in place and it was one PITA to change the CCV. Removing the OFH may be enough to give you the needed clearance.
Last edited by fudman; 04-29-2010 at 09:13 PM.
good info thanks guys ... my friend shows me BMW Bulletin about this yellow crud where it's mentioned that cold weather CCV should be replaced with a new Dipstick
ya i also replaced vacuum hoses on secondary air check valve , #4, #7 and #9 ... Jackcat559, FYI - white part of secondary air check valve is turn to gasket
what i can say ... 3-4 dates after work and i still there ...
new Dipstick installed
oil filter gasket replaced
manifold with cold wheather CCV is ready to go
Last edited by champaign777; 04-30-2010 at 01:03 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
little white / black secondary valve
white face pointed to the gasket
Last edited by champaign777; 12-30-2011 at 01:37 PM.
IMO, I wouldn't bother with the new cold-weather version dipstick.
I thought about this too, and opted not to buy the outrageous priced new dipstick.
And, I am glad that I did not buy it, because after I took off my existing dipstick, it was in great shape!
No crud, or yellow gunk!
I used a straightened out clothes hanger (similar to a pipe cleaner) to clean out the original dipstick.
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
I have been asked about the new version m54 dipstick and I recall ordering one for a guy some time ago, and it being pricey for what it is.
I think it might be something to consider if your engine has really bad oil condensation issues, I have yet to see a bimmer locally that really had a problem with it though. Either way, the new stick tube will not hurt.
The dipstick guide P/n 11-43-7-565-437 is required in really cold climate. Like Canada. I have that new dipstick when I changed to the cold climate version. We have bursts of -40°C to -50°C (-40°F to -48°F). Even long trips won't warm up the engine to the normal operatong temperature. In order to see temp at 12 o'clock, you prolly have to drive 1/2 hour at least (in the city). I also remember taking a trip up North at those inhuman temperatures with my i6 and the temp needle NEVER made it to 12 o'clock. That is a 3 hour drive.
And the cabin temp was balmy at best.
Last edited by Doru; 04-30-2010 at 11:50 AM.
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
Stable: e92is, e53 N62, e46M54B25, Tribby & e39 M54B30 R.I.P.
you guys maybe right but i dont have energy to do this job again and think ... what the hell ... maybe its a dipstick issue now ?
this winter in IL was really cold hehe also my job is 1.5 miles from home ... install and forget if possible ... i also got some cash discount
so before i will put manifold back any more suggestions ?
Should I install CCV first on manifold with all pipes , right ?
this job is hard ... sow many connections ...
Last edited by champaign777; 03-18-2011 at 11:19 PM.
If it was me ... I would change the dual temp sender on cylinder #6 (near firewall) as access is impossible with the IM back on.
The dual temp sender does two things:
1. temp signal to the gauge in your dash
2. additional engine (coolant) temp sensor to the DME / ECU computer.
If you do:
A. intake camshaft positions sensor
B. exhaust camshaft position sensor
C. crankshaft position sensor
D. lower coolant hose coolant temp sensor
E. dual temp sensor
... then you'll be good to go on common failing sensors and you'll enjoy a little more reliability.
This really is a good time to do the dual temp sensor.
I've done all the rest ... when/ if my IM comes off, I'll do that one as well. I did not remove the IM when I replaced my pressure regulating valve. (CVV).
Good luck.
thanks jase007 , good info , but not this time , too much $$$ and a big mess
just as you said i will replace #6 and all vacuum hoses around it and manifold gasket
and a new CCV
Then I will put all back , install new throttle body and air intake
Then I will need throttle body adaptation value reset in DIS
Then finally probably it will work LOL who knows
Last edited by champaign777; 04-30-2010 at 05:35 PM.
job is done, all ECU errors cleaned / resolved, car is running
it took for me like 20-25 hours to replace oil filter gasket, manifold gasket ,
Cold Weather CCV, vacuum hoses, new dipstick , new throttle,
throttle adaptation values reset and some small staff
the right part of engine is done ... no energy left for vanos
The most difficult part was manifold removing / instalation ... took me a lot of time to set all these cables / hoses
car runs just a little better ... i'm glad i solved my main issue - failed throttle body and installed CW CCV
Last edited by champaign777; 03-18-2011 at 11:19 PM.
Here is your $200 dipstick (top p/n: 11437565437) versus the original $30 (bottom p/n: 11437531258) comparison. Now you wonder why oil gets sucked into the intake if your CCV is clogged (with the original dipstick guide tube), huh? What kind of retarded engineering is this?
I just did an overhaul job on my E46 that has an M54. OP, did you replace your starter and vacuum lines? I'd hate to do this job ever again. I went ahead and replaced everything under it--cooling pipes, hoses, and sensors.
Did you clean your intake manifold? It took me about a week or so to clean it. I know it was impossible to get it completely cleaned because of the design--the lobes that come down to form the throttle body opening probably still has a little but of oil grime in but I emptied over a dozen Berryman carb cleaner, a gallon of Purple Power and Simple Green, and about half a liter of Dawn dishwashing soap, and finally several gallons of water with a pressure washer for each of those items I used. Additionally, I also submerged it in baths of those items overnight.
ya man job was too much complicated
vacuum lines - yes , starter ?? no
no i didn't clean intake manifold like you did ... a bath ... mmm...
actually i wanted my car to run .. dont sure it can run after a bath hehe
now after 1 week i see the difference . Cold start rough idle is almost gone
Engine idle and acceleration is much better ... dont know if i need to work on double vanos now ...
cool
Last edited by champaign777; 03-18-2011 at 11:21 PM.
Any idea where this o-ring is from? It's very clean and dry, so it may be from the new ccv?
I got the new CCV in with the S hose connected, but I want to figure out what this is before I continue.
HELP
size of the o-ring?
Just replaced the intake gaskets, ccv, and stuffs in 3 hours flat.
It's 12mm outer diameter, 8mm inner, 2mm thick
Done and done. 2 guys (myself and Jackcat) did it in about 3 hours. We removed the intake and replaced ALL the o-rings and rubber gaskets. Its not all the difficult, just take your time and mark everything you disconnect.
Thanks again! Enzo loved his gift.
How could you not have been excited!
Last edited by BaltimoreBimmer; 05-16-2010 at 07:08 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
2007 Carerra S
2009 E91
1990 Toyo PU - POS
2000 E39/5
1976 911
this o-ring looks like from one of small CCV houses
check also air distribution o-rings
check also 1 dipstick o-ring
this is all what i remember
Last edited by champaign777; 05-16-2010 at 08:39 PM.
Edit:
Could it be from the small tip on the top of the S-hose (#3)?
You mean where #7 connects to #3 and is secured by #8? That's what I was referring to.
My car has no #8 because #7 just snaps on. I could put it in there, but that wouldn't tell me if it's supposed to be there.
Edit2:
I put the O-ring on my old #3 where #7 slides over top of it.
Seems a little loose, but it's the only remotely suitable location I've seen so far. Has anyone who bought a cold weather CCV seen this o-ring on there?
Last edited by pj530i; 05-16-2010 at 08:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I believe that O-ring may be for the dipstick tube. I know that I rpelaced an o-ring at the base of the dipstick tube.
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