Age-old thrust arm ball joint issue again

[newton22]

Yup, I did a search. But for piece of mind, I'd thought I check in to see if anyone has come up with any new methods for removing the ball joint end of the thrust arm (most search results were from a few years back).

Pickle fork doesn't work. Harbor Freight ball joint separator didn't do anything. The bolt is stuck on there like it's welded on. Sledgehammer time? I guess I can take whacks at the bolt, but I'm afraid of accidentally whacking the brake rotor backing plate.

What else can I do?

[mattmartindrift]

soak the joint in PB-blaster or similar penetrating lubricant, if that alone doesn't work, heat the knuckle with a torch (propane should be fine) and while hot use your ball-joint tool.

my harbor freight tool worked fine. I did have to put a good bit of pressure on it, approaching the range of uncomfortable.

[Hogg]

Not to sound like an ass, but....sell them and buy the thrust arms with the bushings already installed. $320 with better bushings from EAC, vs $140 for the bushings alone.

That's a $180 difference, which ain't mouse nuts, but in terms of how many people have had exactly the same issue you are having, and then spent god knows how many hours, and purchased or made god knows how many tools...seems like the added cost is worth it.

[newton22]

Not to sound like an ass, but....sell them and buy the thrust arms with the bushings already installed. $320 with better bushings from EAC, vs $140 for the bushings alone.

That's a $180 difference, which ain't mouse nuts, but in terms of how many people have had exactly the same issue you are having, and then spent god knows how many hours, and purchased or made god knows how many tools...seems like the added cost is worth it.

Yup, I bought the complete arms from EAC with the HD bushings pressed in. But first I have to take my old arms off.

I did try WD-40. Would PB work much better?

[mattmartindrift]

Yup, I bought the complete arms from EAC with the HD bushings pressed in. But first I have to take my old arms off.

I did try WD-40. Would PB work much better?

Supposedly. Really, heat has always been my friend. If you haven't worked on cars regularly it is very surprising, scary, and intimidating how much force is required to separate stubborn ball joints.

[newton22]

Okay, I have a propane torch. The WD-40 has probably dried off by now, but will I set my suspension on fire? That would kinda suck.

[Poolman]

Your just heating the knuckle where the ball joint is, you won't catch anything on fire from there. I tried the same thing on mine and couldn't get the sucker seperated. Will try again in the spring and see if I can make things right then. I broke my Habor frt tool--sorta scary Guys

[cblandin]

Eh, you might get a flame or two (easily doused). 5 lbs sledge is your friend.

[newton22]

Alright, I know WD-40 is flammable, so I didn't want to pull a stupid.

The ball joint is also probably damaged by now, so I don't wanna put it back together. Thanks for all the help.

[nmclay]

soak the joint in PB-blaster or similar penetrating lubricant, if that alone doesn't work, eat the knuckle with a torch (propane should be fine) and while hot use your ball-joint tool.

my harbor freight tool worked fine. I did have to put a good bit of pressure on it, approaching the range of uncomfortable.

This is EXACTLY what I had to do to get my thrust arms off a few months ago. Heat works wonders in conjunction with the PB blaster being allowed to soak in.

[mattmartindrift]

p.s. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!!!

[Richter12x2]

Okay, I have a propane torch. The WD-40 has probably dried off by now, but will I set my suspension on fire? That would kinda suck.

Occasionally yes, but it's just the old rubber boot that would be damaged, and you're replacing that anyway, right?

[newton22]

Yup, new arm going in.

What's disappointing is that there are leak stains at the bottom of my bushing, but it looks like the prev. owner already replaced the bushing and just didn't clean the stain. So I'm replacing arms that are still in decent condition.

FML.

[CSMBlack-540i]

A few hard knocks with a large hammer (sledgehammer may be too big) WITH the nut on the spindle will help just after heating it with the propane torch. Just make sure you wear gloves as the spindle will be HOT!

[Jason5driver]

Get some PB Blaster.
It really works.
Better than WD-40 IMO.
Did you follow CNN's DIY to the 'T'???
Look here:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1312326




Also use a 3 lb mini-sledge.
Harbor Freight is your friend...
LOL!

[newton22]

Wait, wait, wait, so can't squeeze the thrust arm out with the strut in place?

#$^#&$%&!!!

[hustler905]

PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench are penetrating oils, WD-40 is pretty much varsol with some propellants. You would want a penetrating oil for a project like this.

[cpatstone]

p.s. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!!!

+1

and earplugs, so when the sucker lets go, the pop doesn't scare the **** out of you as much.

I had to crank my zdmak tool to its max, like to the point where I was sure the threads would strip, and then hit the ball joint threaded end with a sledge.

note, might help to leave the locknut on the end of the threads. gives you more of a surface to bear/press/whack on.

all else fails - not much more effort to pull the whole assembly off the car, so brake rotors/lines/struts/fenders/etc are all safely away from the blast zone.

[jagerhund]

Wait, wait, wait, so can't squeeze the thrust arm out with the strut in place?

#$^#&$%&!!!

Yes, you can take are the thrust arm with strut in place.

Bottom line with ball joints is they are on there solidly for a good reason. It takes a great deal of force to break them free. I must be lucky because on every car I have done ball joints on I have never had to resort to heat or penetrating oil to break mine free, a carefully aimed shot with a baby beater can do wonders.

[newton22]

Oh okay, that's reassuring. If I had known I had to take everything out, I would have just ordered some lowering springs and struts.

I just whacked it a couple more times and torqued my tool really hard. Still no movement. I'll go fetch some penetrating oil.

[Graham E39 528i]

I did this recently. This is what worked for me:

0. Detach the arm at the lollypop end and swivel the arm forward until parallel with long axis of car
1. Use the OEM tool (260 clams from getbmwparts.com (Ouch!)).
2. PB Blaster (let it sit for 20 mins)
3. Apply a lot of pressure with the tool (need 24mm open ended wrench)
4. More PB Blaster
5. Go off to grab something to eat (or get some sleep)
6. Come back and it will be free

On both sides this worked for me. The act of sitting there under a lot of pressure caused it to come loose (heard it pop from my kitchen).

[newton22]

I did this recently. This is what worked for me:

0. Detach the arm at the lollypop end and swivel the arm forward until parallel with long axis of car
1. Use the OEM tool (260 clams from getbmwparts.com (Ouch!)).
2. PB Blaster (let it sit for 20 mins)
3. Apply a lot of pressure with the tool (need 24mm open ended wrench)
4. More PB Blaster
5. Go off to grab something to eat (or get some sleep)
6. Come back and it will be free

On both sides this worked for me. The act of sitting there under a lot of pressure caused it to come loose (heard it pop from my kitchen).

Thanks for the advice. When it pops, will it hit the bottom of the strut and damage it?

[Graham E39 528i]

No. The tool will be sitting on the ground.

[Jason5driver]

I also used my hammer and smacked in the Harbor Freight tool (fork end) in between the arm and the steering knuckle.
Also note, there are (2) settings on the Harbor Freight tool that can be adjusted for a wider grab.
If your tool stays on, and you crank it with a socket wrench - with PB Blaster soked in, you should be in business.
The popping is the arm's bolt breaking free from the steering knuckle.
Like I said, give me a call if you have any questions.

Thanks!
Jason

[Hogg]

Soooo - did you get it off and if so, how. Cause i am doing this in the next week or so.