Member
I am getting ready to install a new throttle body. The Chilton manual says once the new part is installed the (learned) stored values in the engine management system ECM must be reset. Then it says I need "dedicated test equipment" to do this. Is there a way to do it your self? After I install the part will I be able to drive the car to the dealership if its not possible to do it your self? Or basically will the car work after installation? IF you cant DIY then I am assuming this special equipment costs millions and billions of dollars and is not reasonable to do DIY. But that would be lame because thats what its all about DIY!!
Member
You need a GT1... if you don't have one, you have to have the dealer do it.
-///Mike ///Michael ///Mikey
pwn noobs /thread
Member
Ok, great; those are pretty expensive though. So after the new throttle body installation will the car be drivable? So I can get it to the dealership or am I gonna have to install this thing in the BMW parking lot..haha.
Member
Car should not be drivable, with no reference of throttle position, you will have the EML light on and the throttle plate will not move. Making it impossible to drive. Why are you installing a new throttle body?
-///Mike ///Michael ///Mikey
pwn noobs /thread
Member
My car has gone into limp mode, I talked to a BMW mechanic and he said my throttle body needs to be replaced. What was happening is, when I applied the gas the engine would idle hard and I would have no power..so the car would drive at like one mile an hour. I threw code P1452 (pedal sensor position switch electrical).
What is weird is after I applied the OBDII scanner to see what code the car was throwing...the car worked fine the next day. My SES, EML and ABS lights are all off. I did not reset anything. I dont drive the car in fear it will go back into limp mode on the road and that would suck. Looks like I have no choice but to buy that tool as there is no way to get it to the dealership after the repair. Towing would probably cost me the amount of the tool. Man what a bummer.
Member
Probably needs more diagnosis... Pedal position sensor is more likely to fail rather than the throttle plate motor.
-///Mike ///Michael ///Mikey
pwn noobs /thread
Member
It might help to let you know that, I have a 328CI. That means the TPS (Throttle Position Switch) is not serviceable; which means you need to replace the entire throttle body on my car. Versus the M3, which for about $80 bucks you can replace the TPS on the throttle body.
Either way, what advice do you have to perform further diagnosis? The OBDII tester threw code P1452 and that was all. The BMW mechanic told me, that code means new throttle body. What else can I do; buy a GT1 to get full diagnostics report? I think I am doomed, I bought this car to work on it myself...im probably over my head at this point. Just limp mode the thing to the BMW dealrship and hand over five million dollars...mega bummer. I failed
Member
To reset the learning process in the DME, all you have to do is disconnect the battery for a while. Beyond that, you need someone who has access to the BMW diagnostics system. Either a dealer or independant...
Too Many BMWs
I went through this a month or so ago on my son's '99 323i. It did the limp mode several times over consecutative days. I think I had the identical code (among others). The throttle body had been replaced only six months prior by the previous owner so I was not inclined to blame that part.
I removed the throttle body electrical connector and cleaned all the contacts with electrical contact cleaner. I recommend you try that first before spending $600 on a new throttle body.
When you reinstall the connector, you must be sure the connector is completely seated. I recall there were marks on the connector and the throttle body that had to line-up. It was a real pain to fully seat, but I finally did it. Mine was not fully seated when I started working on it - don't know if that was the problem but it sure could not help.
The wiring for that connector goes into the engine harness which has another disconnect in that plastic box at the rear of the engine compartment on the driver's side directly behind the strut tower. You'll need either an allen or torx (don't recall size) to remove the top of that box. I unseated all the connectors there, cleaned the contacts, and reinstalled. I think the next disconnect is on the computer itself. I did not go that far but it probably would not hurt to check that also while you're at it.
By the way, be sure you disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before you do any of this.
After reassembly the car ran fine. I got the adaptations cleared at a local indy shop. The car has run flawlessly for over a month.
There's a TSB floating around on this problem that says either the throttle body or the wiring harness can be bad. Do some searches to see what you can find.
I did a lot of forum research and the answer I came up with was that the fancy dealer computer is required to clear the throttle body adaptations for my year car - don't know about yours.
Good luck.
Keith
Keith
All my advice comes with a 10x Golden Money Back Guarantee! If you're not completely satisfied, I'll gladly refund 10 times what you paid me for the advice!
'03 330i Zhp - My Car
'04 330i - Wife
'98 328i - Son
Member
Thats some great news, I will look into the throttle body wiring and clean the connectors. But just so I am clear....if I have to install a new throttle body can I really just un-hook the battery for a while and when I hook it back up my car should be drivable with the new throttle body installed? Does anyone else agree with this? Its not necessary to buy a GT1 kit or take it to the BMW dealership if you just install a new throttle body, un-hook the battery for a while then hook it back up? The ECM will learn about the new throttle body and I should be good to go.
kgvickers, thank you very much for that information! I went out and bought all of the stuff, so hopefully this works. I think its really awesome your whole family drives BMW!
Last edited by NuklearKrisis; 12-23-2009 at 05:49 AM.
Member
Hey guys, I just replaced the starter on my brothers 2003 325xi and i took the intake manifold off to get to it. In the process of that i took the throttle body off to get to the one bolt holding the intake on. I put the car back together and it runs horrible. It does not shift right, it falls on its face and only revs up to 3500 rpm at the most. Oh and also the eml light comes on. Can this be caused by me taking the throttle body off. Any information would be appreciated. thanks in advance, Steve
Member
bump. Guys i am stuck i would really appreciate any input.
Thanks, steve
Member
I currently have this exact same issue. I had to take off the intake and in the process removed the throttle body. Now after putting it all back together the EML light and Ck Engine light come on and the car is in limp mode. Did you ever get an answer the helped correct this problem? Please Please let me know if you got any suggestions on how to correct this problem.Originally Posted by Silver98e36
Thank you.
Member
bump
i'm in the same exact situation (with my e90), i replaced the starter and now the car is running terrible. I'm getting a few different warning lights on the dash and it's a little sluggish when accelerating...
any info on sorting the issue out would be greatly appreciated
Last edited by onlyatill; 06-01-2015 at 09:10 PM.
Member
I have been doing a complete rebuild and will be taking mine to the dealership to see if they can do something, but seems like the problem I have ... Push on gas and seems like there is a hesitation before revving up
I Void Warranties
Simply removing and re-installing the intake should not cause this issue.
You likely forgot to re-connect something.
I Void Warranties
You would have better luck in the e90 section.
Start by making sure you didn't leave something unplugged.
I Void Warranties
That could be a vacuum leak or VANOS issue.
Member
haha i had this exact problem after cleaning my throttle and ICV. I left a plug out.
you know that box with about 8 wires coming out of it going to thermostat, throttle ICV etc? there was a wire which plugs INTO that box. you wont see it with the airbox on, its on the lower half pointing towards the front of the car. I popped that back in and everything was back to normal. cleared codes with cheap tool.
Member
On 99vw beetle replaced throttlebody , now reset computer can I do it myself
Member
also, these days you can have yourself a working GT1 for about $20 and an hour or 2 of your time.....
Current:
- 09 335i MSport, FBO.
- 98 Euro M3, Estoril Blue
- 04 M3, Carbon Black, 6 Speed Coupe
- 06 M5, Black on Black, Full Leather.
- 73 3.0CS, Tagia Green, 5 speed M30b35 converted
Ex's: 1984 325e, 1988 325IX, 1992 525I, 1995 540i/6, 2002 330i, 2005 330xi, 1992 850i, 2003 330i #1, 2003 330i #2, 2002 330ci, 2004 330ci, 2007 328CI, 2007 335i, 2001 M3, 2006 M5 6 speed
Member
Can you replace the throttle body and disconnect the battery for a reset and see if it works? Does it need to be programmed? Can you do a source code reset back to default somehow? The computer will recognize the new throttle body and run it? I just bought one where it just plugs in and isn't a simple tps.
Last edited by bmwster; 09-12-2018 at 12:38 AM. Reason: more detail
Apprentice w/#yrs. exp.
No programming required,
but it is recommended to reset adaptations.
Member
Replace TB and reset TB adaptation.
TB adaptaion reset instructions:
Put key in ignition, mash the throttle to the floor and hold it there. Turn the key to position 2 DO NOT START THE MOTOR. Keep your foot to the floor for 30 seconds, after 30 seconds turn key back to 0 position or off position keeping your foot mashed to the floor for another 30 seconds (never release foot from full down throttle position).
Remove foot from throttle (accelerator pedal), remove key, reinsert key and start motor...TB should be reset.
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